Bicycle Mechanics - White Lightning kick to the curb!

Don't have a question guys/gals, just a statement to make about chain cleaning/lubing. Until yesterday had been using WL, but upon checking at the LBS, he recommended ROCK AND ROLL GOLD. After doing some research/reading about it decided to give it a try today. At this point, can see no cons, but plenty of pros. First is ease of application, put it on/rub it off, that's it! I keep my bike abnormally clean, so you can imagine my surprise when, and I mean this literally, CHUNKS of grease/grime fell into the rag and some on the floor! Let bike sit for about 30 minutes while I cleaned up my mess and then took a short 5 mile ride. Again, I was amazed at the smoothness of the shifts and especially the quietness of the chain. It was/is a significant improvement to what I was accustomed.

Thought this was worth mentioning because until yesterday, never heard of Rock and Roll, but believe me, this one is a keeper! Just wanted to let everyone know (that doesn't already) this product truly works! :thumb::thumb:

I switched to Rock and Roll Extreme (blue stuff) about a year ago. You will find you have to put it on a little more often then soem other lubes but it by far the best stuff I have ever used. Try their super web grease the next time you need to repack some bearings.

The very knowledgeable fellow at the LBS covered the frequency w/me also. Said I should redo it about every 8/10 hours ride time and especially if I was caught in a thunderstorm. I replied to him only time I ride is when the sun is shining and smooth concrete/asphalt to ride upon! Because it is such a snap to apply, really won't take a lot of time to do. Thanks for the advice about the grease!

I have used nothing but Rock and Roll Gold since 2005. I love the stuff.

Don't have a question guys/gals, just a statement to make about chain cleaning/lubing. Until yesterday had been using WL, but upon checking at the LBS, he recommended ROCK AND ROLL GOLD. After doing some research/reading about it decided to give it a try today. At this point, can see no cons, but plenty of pros. First is ease of application, put it on/rub it off, that's it! I keep my bike abnormally clean, so you can imagine my surprise when, and I mean this literally, CHUNKS of grease/grime fell into the rag and some on the floor! Let bike sit for about 30 minutes while I cleaned up my mess and then took a short 5 mile ride. Again, I was amazed at the smoothness of the shifts and especially the quietness of the chain. It was/is a significant improvement to what I was accustomed.

Thought this was worth mentioning because until yesterday, never heard of Rock and Roll, but believe me, this one is a keeper! Just wanted to let everyone know (that doesn't already) this product truly works! :thumb::thumb:

I've never heard of the stuff but after looking at their website (http://www.rocklube.com/index.html), it doesn't look like it's any different from White Lightning. Application is the same, results are the same, liquid in the bottle looks the same. And then there is this wonderful little chestnut:


Many riders ask, "What is the difference between the Extreme, Absolute Dry, and the Gold?" The Extreme is for MTB's and can be used on the road, but the Absolute Dry is for the road, only, and the Gold is for all bikes. Here's why: The bicycle, because it's on rubber tires, is not grounded, making the bicycle a static electricity machine. As the bicycle rolls along, it's constantly throwing off negative charged electrons, whereas the dirt along the ground is positively charged, and comes up to the bike to replace the discharge. The dirt is going to stick to whatever is sticky on the bike; of course the chain is the number one spot.

Road bikes generally tend to pick up more dirt from the discharge, so a thicker, dryer membrane is needed. Whereas the MTB, needs something that can take more dust from the front wheel being kicked up on the chain as well as water crossing, etc. The Gold, is the most recent addition to the Rock "N" Roll chain lube line-up. the Gold, works on all bicycles, staying cleaner and giving smoother pedaling, and shifting, then any lube we know of.


:roflmao2::roflmao2::roflmao2:

Chains pick up dirt and crap because they are generally coated with a sticky liquid...not because they are charged with static :roflmao2: Believe me, if bicycles were a static generating machine, I'd have been zapping my kids with them a loooong time ago:roflmao2:

And road bikes pick up more dirt...then what? A mountain bike? Give me a break:roflmao2:

ProGold ProLink all the way. Chains get dirty, but ProLink seems to keep mine cleaner than anything else I have tried.

Tempted to try one of my gun oils one of these days...If it can stand up to 9mm pressures, probably do ok on a bike chain? :)

nymtber- I have used remoil to lube the insides of cable housing and it's great. never used one of my gun lubes on a chain. I wonder how it would do.
Imagine a chain whipping around something like Eezox. The thought of those fumes is giving me a headache!

Yea, I will probably stick to ProLink, it works awesome. I have CorrosionX for guns, its some seriously good lube. It is wonderful at preventing rust, and a really good lubricant, as well. It truly keeps my .22 semi's functioning longer than any other lube I've run.

Ive only lubed one cable housing, that was one I just put on my brothers bike that didn't have a liner (cheap cable/housing kit). It was just a brake cable, i put a little grease here and there on the cable itself, Park grease at that ;)

:roflmao2::roflmao2::roflmao2:

I use it to lube my muffler bearings and it works great. It also makes a great tube grease.

Triflow>prolink, and I don't have to squirt half a bottle on every 8 hours.

So I'm suppose to lube my chain everyday??? I don't think so.

I just rode my bike around the shop,then held dirt up to the chain,none jumped up there.Rubbed a balloon on my head,held dirt up to it,dirt jumps to the balloon.

Put a rubber sprocket on the front and a wool chain,now were talking static electricity.

So I'm suppose to lube my chain everyday??? I don't think so.

I just rode my bike around the shop,then held dirt up to the chain,none jumped up there.Rubbed a balloon on my head,held dirt up to it,dirt jumps to the balloon.

Put a rubber sprocket on the front and a wool chain,now were talking static electricity.

Who ever said you have to lube your chain everyday? I use White Lightning (have for years) and I don't apply it any more often than any other lube I've used in the past. I doubt if I apply it more than once every 6 weeks.

Who ever said you have to lube your chain everyday? I use White Lightning (have for years) and I don't apply it any more often than any other lube I've used in the past. I doubt if I apply it more than once every 6 weeks.

the OP said you have to re-apply his new miracle liquid every 8-10 hours. I regularly ride longer than that in a day.

I generally prefer indie music to rock and roll, but as long as it isn't country I'm fine . . . Oh wait, you guys were talking about chain lube.
Done yet?

the OP said you have to re-apply his new miracle liquid every 8-10 hours. I regularly ride longer than that in a day.

No. The bike shop told PatrickJIV to reapply every 8/10 hours of ride time. That is utter bull****! The shop is just trying to sell him more of the stuff than he really needs or they are sticking with the old crap about wax lubes not being as 'good' as oil lubes. Wax lubes don't need more applicationthan other lubes. Nor is half a bottle needed each time.

No where did I read about using a half bottle of this or any other stuff to put on a chain. I used maybe ¼ oz, if that, applying yesterday. Please stop putting words into something that isn't there! And in your first post you stated there wasn't any difference, app was the same, blah, blah, blah. Guess we read a different web page. WL does NOT clean AND lube the chain. You have to have the chain clean, clean, and then clean some more before applying. R&R does both steps at once. And after thinking my chain was fairly clean using WL, after seeing the HUNKS of grime/grease fall out of it, that's when I kicked it to the curb.

If you're satisfied w/WL, that's fine, to each his own I guess. R&R Gold for me!

I generally prefer indie music to rock and roll, but as long as it isn't country I'm fine . . . Oh wait, you guys were talking about chain lube.
Done yet?


You're not hatin' on Taylor Swift are you? the poor girls had enough trauma!!!
;)

I used WL for a number of years with good results- performance-wise. But to tell the truth I got tired of the build up when I needed to do a thorough cleaning.

+1 on the lubes that clean AND lube in one application. I like ProGold.

It's all about Dolly Parton

No where did I read about using a half bottle of this or any other stuff to put on a chain. I used maybe ¼ oz, if that, applying yesterday. Please stop putting words into something that isn't there! And in your first post you stated there wasn't any difference, app was the same, blah, blah, blah. Guess we read a different web page. WL does NOT clean AND lube the chain. You have to have the chain clean, clean, and then clean some more before applying. R&R does both steps at once. And after thinking my chain was fairly clean using WL, after seeing the HUNKS of grime/grease fall out of it, that's when I kicked it to the curb.

If you're satisfied w/WL, that's fine, to each his own I guess. R&R Gold for me!

First I was defending you against others who said that you had to use 1/2 a bottle for each application. You don't.

As for the Rock and Roll stuff being pretty much the same as WL, here's what WL has to say about self-cleaning


In 1994 Paul Maples, a retired research chemist was determined to find a way to end the messy inconvenience and performance inefficiencies caused by the dirt, grease and grime build up on his chain. He set out to develop the first and only chain lube that would 'self-clean'. Clean Ride™ is that product; the original White Lightning chain lube. Clean Ride has become world renown because it actually repels and sheds dirt and grime from your chain and parts while you ride. It was, and is, so unique it has been awarded four patents.

Clean Ride sets up as a dry wax film. There is no oily film to attract abrasive contaminants, so your chain and gears will perform better and last 2 to 3 times longer. Clean Ride's self-cleaning action is activated by any dirt, grit or grime that finds it's way onto your chain or parts. Small particles of the outer wax structure will flake off, taking the dirt, grime or grit with it. This begins the cycle of 'self-cleaning'. Clean Ride is a unique, wax-based lubricant, so it is important to start with a clean chain. For optimum 'self-cleaning' performance, do not mix Clean Ride with oil based lubricants. The dirtier the ride, the more active the shedding action. So to this extent, Clean Ride will require more frequent re-application after dirtier rides. When Clean Ride is used regularly and properly, you'll rarely have to clean your chain again. So, while your buddies are cleaning their chains, you'll be applying a fresh shot of Clean Ride and heading out for yet another great ride!


Application is the same. Flood the chain, let it evaporate, wipe off the excess if you like. And I'll bet that you get better results with your lube if you clean the factory gum off first.

I don't really care about which lube you use. I do care, however, when people make **** up about how and why something works when they are obviously blowing smoke out their butts. Rock and Roll's claim about 'static build up' is just so much smoke. Dirt, sand, grit and other gunk gets on the chain because oil based lubes trap it there. Take away the sticky oil and dirt has nothing to stick to. No more exotic explanation is needed.

It really comes down to mileage for me. I get 5000-6000 miles out of a chain using close to the the same stuff Honda recommends for their motorcycle chain.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

I'm with cyccommute. The OP makes statements that don't equate to R&R being better than WL, and the R&R site is about 50% moose hockey.

Why has no one suggested commercial trolling? :notamused:

I'm with cyccommute. The OP makes statements that don't equate to R&R being better than WL, and the R&R site is about 50% moose hockey.

Why has no one suggested commercial trolling? :notamused:

Hey, you're entitled to your opinion the SAME AS ME! Don't care about the R&R site, just the results that I have already gotten, thank you! And at 72 years of age, retired Navy, can rest assure you and anyone else, I am NOT a troll, commercial or residential. Maybe that's why no one has brought it up. Jeesh!

MODERATOR: Will you please lock this thread? Some peeps can't stand an opinion that differs with theirs.

Just because everyone likes chocolate ice-cream and you happen to like vanilla, doesn't make your choice any "better" than ours. Let's see how many miles you get out of a chain with R&R.

Don't have a question guys/gals, just a statement to make about chain cleaning/lubing. Until yesterday had been using WL, but upon checking at the LBS, he recommended ROCK AND ROLL GOLD. After doing some research/reading about it decided to give it a try today. At this point, can see no cons, but plenty of pros. First is ease of application, put it on/rub it off, that's it! I keep my bike abnormally clean, so you can imagine my surprise when, and I mean this literally, CHUNKS of grease/grime fell into the rag and some on the floor! Let bike sit for about 30 minutes while I cleaned up my mess and then took a short 5 mile ride. Again, I was amazed at the smoothness of the shifts and especially the quietness of the chain. It was/is a significant improvement to what I was accustomed.

Thought this was worth mentioning because until yesterday, never heard of Rock and Roll, but believe me, this one is a keeper! Just wanted to let everyone know (that doesn't already) this product truly works! :thumb::thumb:

Rock'n'roll and prolink are one of the best dry lubes out there. It always runs clean. They won't last 30seconds in wet weather though ...

Wait, if you have to reaapply it more then some other lubes how is that a better lube? A good lube will last longer then a poor lube, no if ands or buts! The same applies to automotive oil. If the automotive oil breaks down fast is that a superior oil over one that doesn't? BULLSCHIT!!! That doesn't mean you don't have to change your oil in your car or clean your chain and relube, it means that the oil is protecting your engine and your chain better right up to the time you need to service those things. You wouldn't wait to change your oil, or add oil in your car till the engine started knocking then say, "gee, I think it's time to change my oil, or add oil"...nor should you do that with your chain. If the chain is making noise your too late, accelerated wear has already begun.

Wax based lubes are a poor lubricant as well and Sheldon Brown is correct about that; so is using just plain motor oil because it too wet and attracts every kind of dirt to the chain like a dirt magnet. But almost any current dry oil on the market is good if applied right. First you have to clean the chain, then apply the oil, wipe off any excess then let it set overnight. You don't have to flood the chain either, the sides of the chain do not need oil thus your wasting oil, just the rollers need the oil, and you apply just a single drop to each roller. I clean and relube my chains no more then every 75 miles and more often if exposed to rain or unusually dirty situation then it could be after the ride. I use FinishLine products for this but there are others that work just as well like TriFlow, ProGold ProLink etc. I usually average about 15,000 miles on a chain by the way.

By the way, Patrick is correct, there is no such thing as a self cleaning lube. You have to clean, clean and clean. Same is true with engine oil, even though the oil may say it has superior detergents, you still have to change your oil according to your manufactures recommendations...I change mine a more frequently then the manufacture suggests because I don't personally think engine oil maintains it's rated viscosity for 7,500 miles, the heat alone generated by modern hotter running engines will destroy the viscosity rating; it's possible to have clean engine oil that can still damage your engine because the viscosity breakdown. And this will become more critical as engines start using 0-10 weight oil more. Say all of that to say this, if you think you don't have to clean a chain because the oil is doing that, your full of mislead balony.

I don't agree with everything Sheldon Brown says either, nor do I disagree with everything he says. I rarely take apart a chain and don't think that taking apart a chain is good for the chain, in fact it will weaken it. On the web site mentioned above for Sheldon Brown he says to NEVER clean the chain on the bike, or use a one of those machines that clean the chain on your bike but on this web site he wrote he ok's it, see: http://nordicgroup.us/chain/

I've used a cleaning machine from Finishline for about 15 years and still get 15,000 average life on my chains. But I clean and relube my chain after every other ride on the average. Overkill? perhaps, but it's cheaper to clean and relube then to replace a chain.

Wax based lubes are a poor lubricant as well and Sheldon Brown is correct about that; so is using just plain motor oil because it too wet and attracts every kind of dirt to the chain like a dirt magnet. But almost any current dry oil on the market is good if applied right. First you have to clean the chain, then apply the oil, wipe off any excess then let it set overnight. You don't have to flood the chain either, the sides of the chain do not need oil thus your wasting oil, just the rollers need the oil, and you apply just a single drop to each roller. I clean and relube my chains no more then every 75 miles and more often if exposed to rain or unusually dirty situation then it could be after the ride. I use FinishLine products for this but there are others that work just as well like TriFlow, ProGold ProLink etc. I usually average about 15,000 miles on a chain by the way.

You flood the chain when using White Lightning or other wax based lubes because the carrier used is thinner than oils. The carrier acts as a solvent to dissolve the old lubricant and flush it away. In some respects it's like WD-40 in that it removes the old stuff and leaves the new stuff in it's place. But, unlike WD-40, the carrier evaporates and leaves a dry lubricant on the chain that doesn't attract dirt. Attached dirt (actually the quartz grains in the dirt are the problem) grinds the steel off and is responsible for black in the oil that covers chains.

I don't clean or lube my chains more often than 75 miles. I have better things to do. I have no idea how long my chains last because, frankly, I have better things to do:rolleyes: I do clean my chain right out of the box, as per WL suggestions. I then lube, as per their suggestion. I can go for weeks and weeks without having to relube. I've found that WL last longer than "30 seconds" in rain. The wax in the lubricant isn't water-soluble:rolleyes: In fact, the wax in the lubricant is in the same class as motor oil and other chain oils...long chain aliphatic hydrocarbons. It just happens to have more carbons and isn't liquid.

I've been caught in rain storms while commuting, while touring, while mountain biking, etc. I don't worry about the chain in those situations. If the lubrication does get washed off, water isn't a great lubricant but it does wet the plates and allow them to slide past each other. I do relube shortly afterwards but I don't worry about the chain not having sufficient lubrication while riding. Just as I didn't worry when I was using Triflow (moderately nasty), Finishline (moderately nasty), Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (what was I thinking:eek::eek:) or even WD-40 (I was young and stupid:o)



By the way, Patrick is correct, there is no such thing as a self cleaning lube. You have to clean, clean and clean. Say all of that to say this, if you think you don't have to clean a chain because the oil is doing that, your full of mislead balony.

You are incorrect because you don't seem to understand the mechanism of the self cleaning lubes. The wax material sloughs off the chain as you ride. Oils don't. But oils also trap dirt and grit (again quartz is the major problem) at the chain. Small pieces of grit get into the plates, rollers and pins acting as a lapping compound. Waxes, by their very nature, don't give grit a chance to adhere. Once applied properly...removal of the sticky grease from the factory is a necessity, even with Rock and Roll:rolleyes:...you don't have to clean or remove the lubricant. The only reason you have to remove the lubricant from oil based systems is to remove the grit that has been trapped in the matrix.

I could drag my chain through the dirt and it wouldn't have any more than a little bit of dust on it that could be easily removed. You can't say the same for an oiled chain.

I've used White Lightning since the mid90's. I bought 6 bottles at a swap meet on a promotional deal back then. I just finished using the last of the 6 bottles so the stuff lasts. I've used the lube while mountain biking, while road biking, while touring in Missouri, in Vermont, in Oregon, in rain, in snow and in heat. I don't have to change my chain every 10 miles or whatever other ridiculous mileage oil people think that WL users have to change their chain. I've used the other stuff. I find oil based lubricants messy and not any better than the waxed lubes. I can touch my chain and not come away with hands that look like I've been working in the coal mines. It's been so long since I've had chain leg that I don't even know how to clean that part of my body anymore:innocent:

And my evening are free because I'm not cleaning my chain every 75 miles.

dunno about this product as i use Pro-Link... but the company's Web monkey needs to learn how to use spell-check...

from:

http://www.rocklube.com/products_detail_gold.html

The well known smoothness and quitness that Rock N Roll lubes are known all over the world for, just went to a new level. Available in 4 or 16 oz.

You flood the chain when using White Lightning or other wax based lubes because the carrier used is thinner than oils.

I don't clean or lube my chains more often than 75 miles. I have better things to do. I have no idea how long my chains last because, frankly, I have better things to do:rolleyes: I do clean my chain right out of the box, as per WL suggestions. I then lube, as per their suggestion. I can go for weeks and weeks without having to relube. I've found that WL last longer than "30 seconds" in rain. The wax in the lubricant isn't water-soluble:rolleyes: In fact, the wax in the lubricant is in the same class as motor oil and other chain oils...long chain aliphatic hydrocarbons. It just happens to have more carbons and isn't liquid.

You are incorrect because you don't seem to understand the mechanism of the self cleaning lubes. The wax material sloughs off the chain as you ride. Oils don't. But oils also trap dirt and grit (again quartz is the major problem) at the chain. Small pieces of grit get into the plates, rollers and pins acting as a lapping compound. Waxes, by their very nature, don't give grit a chance to adhere. Once applied properly...removal of the sticky grease from the factory is a necessity, even with Rock and Roll:rolleyes:...you don't have to clean or remove the lubricant. The only reason you have to remove the lubricant from oil based systems is to remove the grit that has been trapped in the matrix.


And my evening are free because I'm not cleaning my chain every 75 miles.

You obviously don't agree with most other professional methods for either cleaning a chain or lubricating or which type of lube is the best. Which is ok, you can do whatever you want but do it knowing your not entirely correct...but not entirely wrong. Now look, you can soak the chain in lube if you want, your not going to hurt it because it's getting oiled just a little too much which can be wiped away. And the arguement doing this way is that you could allow grit, if the chain is not cleaned extemily well, to be washed into the bushings. And your way of using wax is actually the incorrect way if your going to use wax-which I use to do by the way with wax that came in a can, which you heated till it became liquid, then soak the chain in the can (later I added Slick 50 to the wax) , then remove using a coat hanger as not to burn your hand, then hang it and let it dry. As far as your comments about oil based lubes attracting dirt is not correct with the dry lubes. Just as you so well explained, there is a carrier which evaporates and leaves the chain dry thus dirt and grit don't stick to it, just as dirt and grit don't stick to a wax lube. Your also incorrect about using wax in rain, most pro mtb'ers use a wet lube in rain and mud conditions NOT wax; wax also won't protect against rust; but wax is more suited for dry environments. By the way, I don't have to clean and relube the chain every 75 miles or so, I do it because I want to, and maybe that's why my chains last an average of 15,000 miles.

Please see the following:

http://bicycletutor.com/chain-lubrication/

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html Excellent short article on wax here, wax is not a very good lubricant.

This is how to actually wax a chain, which you don't do so your doing it half way; see: http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating_a_Bicycle_Chain_using_Paraffin/

http://www.dieselbikes.com/tech/tech_briefs/TB090124/tech_brief_tb090124.htm Another excellent source, scan down and you'll run into why soaking a chain in oil may not be such a good idea.

http://bicycletutor.com/lubricants/ About the different kinds of lubes.

Cyccommute; you and I both know that all this stuff is just philosophy, and you and I will take whatever philosophy that suits our personality and go with it. I don't necessarily agree with all that is written on those web sites and nor will you, doesn't mean your right, I'm wrong, or I'm right your wrong, or their right we're wrong, etc, it's just a philosophy and most honest pro mechanics well tell you that. If you think your method is the best then stay with it, just as I don't have any problems doing it my way so I'm staying with mine.

I agree with the OP. I used to use White Lightning, got tired of the buildup (as the excess wax was tossed on my frame), and switched to Rock-n-Roll. I love the stuff! It may not be any better at lubricating than WL or Prolink or many other lubes, but it works for me. Keeps my drivetrain running smoothly and everything stays clean. I don't ride much in the rain, and if I do I relube afterwards anyway. I haven't tried ProLink or Dumonde yet, perhaps when I use up my Rock-n-Roll I'll give them a try.

You obviously don't agree with most other professional methods for either cleaning a chain or lubricating or which type of lube is the best. Which is ok, you can do whatever you want but do it knowing your not entirely correct...but not entirely wrong. Now look, you can soak the chain in lube if you want, your not going to hurt it because it's getting oiled just a little too much which can be wiped away. And the arguement doing this way is that you could allow grit, if the chain is not cleaned extemily well, to be washed into the bushings. And your way of using wax is actually the incorrect way if your going to use wax-which I use to do by the way with wax that came in a can, which you heated till it became liquid, then soak the chain in the can (later I added Slick 50 to the wax) , then remove using a coat hanger as not to burn your hand, then hang it and let it dry. As far as your comments about oil based lubes attracting dirt is not correct with the dry lubes. Just as you so well explained, there is a carrier which evaporates and leaves the chain dry thus dirt and grit don't stick to it, just as dirt and grit don't stick to a wax lube. Your also incorrect about using wax in rain, most pro mtb'ers use a wet lube in rain and mud conditions NOT wax; wax also won't protect against rust; but wax is more suited for dry environments. By the way, I don't have to clean and relube the chain every 75 miles or so, I do it because I want to, and maybe that's why my chains last an average of 15,000 miles.

No liquid oil lubed chain can be cleaned sufficiently after lubrication to remove oil from the outside of the chain. Oil, being liquid and having a viscosity, can flow from where you want it to where you don't want it. If it's on the inside, it will be on the outside. Once on the outside, it becomes a place where grit will stick and eventually...through movement of the chain...get back inside the chain where it will grind the metal surfaces. Every liquid lubricant will suffer from this mechanism. Once you attempt to dissolve the oil away, either with more oil or with a solvent, you just get more grit down into the chain. You can't help it. The solvent or oil carry very small particles of grit into the places where you don't want, or need, them.

This simply can't happen with a properly prepared wax lubricated chain. Properly prepared means removing all of the factory grease prior to using the wax. If you leave the factory lubrication in place before application of a wax lube (I'll get to the using hot wax later), the wax will just dissolve in the factory lube (like dissolves like) and just make it thicker...but still as sticky. I've done this. It simply doesn't work to allow the wax lubes to clean the chain without removing factory lube. You just end up with a mess that is worse then before.

The reason that dry lubricants don't move to the outside of chain is that wax, being more viscous, doesn't move once it is in place. An argument could be made that wax is better at lubricating the pins, plates and rollers of a chain because the lubrication doesn't move away from the surface during movement like oils do. As the chain moves around the drivetrain, the oil inside would be thrown out of the drivetrain due to the flow of oil and the centripetal forces on the chain. This probably isn't that much of a problem due to the low rpm of the system but the oil does move away from inside to outside as evidenced by the black chain leg that all oil users get.

I have said...and will continue to say...that wax lubes work best in dry areas. There you have no argument from me. However, if you are caught in the rain or ride through muddy conditions, the lubricant won't just stop working. It will last more than 30 seconds as others have said. You don't even need to refresh it immediately after water touches it. You can finish your ride and apply when the chain has dried out. In fact, letting the chain dry after exposure to rain, is the best strategy. It is for wet based lubricants also. Water will naturally get into the chain. If you lubricate the chain immediately after water exposure, you are likely to trap the water inside the chain where it can do more damage. Oil...and organic solvents...are generally lighter than water and will float on top. The water, once there, won't be displaced by any organic solvent that you'd regularly use for a bicycle application. There are heavier than water organic solvents but, trust me, you don't want to use them.




Please see the following:

http://bicycletutor.com/chain-lubrication/

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html Excellent short article on wax here, wax is not a very good lubricant.

This is how to actually wax a chain, which you don't do so your doing it half way; see: http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating_a_Bicycle_Chain_using_Paraffin/

http://www.dieselbikes.com/tech/tech_briefs/TB090124/tech_brief_tb090124.htm Another excellent source, scan down and you'll run into why soaking a chain in oil may not be such a good idea.

http://bicycletutor.com/lubricants/ About the different kinds of lubes.

If you read what bicycletutor has to say about wax lubricants, his argument against them boils down to convenience. Many people, yourself included, clean the chain anyway so cleaning the chain once really isn't that much of a hassle. I don't clean my chain more than once in its lifetime. There is just no need. The only reason to clean it more often would be if there were grit in the lubricant but with a dry lube there just isn't any grit to clean off.

I would suggest most strongly that no one should use the dip in paraffin method of chain lubrication. It is an extremely dangerous method of lubricating your chain! Paraffin is flammable and you've got a pot of liquid paraffin over a heat source. It is also totally unnecessary.

A little chemistry lesson would be apropos right now. The wax in dry lubricant is in solution and suspension in the carrier. It is, in essence, liquified as effectively as heating the wax to melting. The carrier is also a low viscosity, high vapor pressure liquid which penetrates into small voids easier than even hot wax and then the carrier evaporates and leaves the wax behind. It does the same as the hot wax without the heat issues.

If anything, dieselbikes backs up what I have to say about wax lubes vs thicker oil lubes. The problem is viscosity. If you can make an oil lube thin enough to get into the voids, it likely won't stay there and if you make it thick enough to stay there it won't get into those voids in the first place. Many oil based lubes use solvents that they hope will evaporate sufficiently to leave the lubrication in place. Triflow, for example, uses amyl acetate. That's why it smells like bananas:rolleyes: Wax lubes just use a solvent with a higher vapor pressure (evaporates more readily) to do the same. It evaporates more quickly. It even evaporates quickly enough that you can apply it and ride the bike immediately. There is no need to wait '2 hours' as biketutor says.


Cyccommute; you and I both know that all this stuff is just philosophy, and you and I will take whatever philosophy that suits our personality and go with it. I don't necessarily agree with all that is written on those web sites and nor will you, doesn't mean your right, I'm wrong, or I'm right your wrong, or their right we're wrong, etc, it's just a philosophy and most honest pro mechanics well tell you that. If you think your method is the best then stay with it, just as I don't have any problems doing it my way so I'm staying with mine.

I would say that mechanics for professional cyclists and even mechanics who make their living by working on bikes are probably the worst people to turn to for advice on how to get the most life out of a chain. Mechanics for race teams will just replace the part at the end of a few races and a shop mechanic will suggest replacement more often to save other parts and/or make more money for the shop.

I've used only White Lightning on my handcycle. I just checked the chain and wear is barely at 1/32. I have about 20-22,000 miles on it.

Road miles only, never in the rain, outside of chain wiped down with brake cleaner every few months, never had trouble with build up.

Your mileage is impressive. But I have to ask, does a hand cycle load the chain as much as a - not sure what the contrasting term would be - foot? stomp? cycle? Hmm. maybe it does. You have to haul the same ass up the same hills...


err.. I meant mass

Your mileage is impressive. But I have to ask, does a hand cycle load the chain as much as a - not sure what the contrasting term would be - foot? stomp? cycle? Hmm. maybe it does. You have to haul the same ass up the same hills...


err.. I meant mass

I expect it doesn't. The bike does weigh more(about 40 lbs all up) and I stay mostly on flat ground around here. The nearest hills are almost 20 miles away.

I don't imagine there's much load on the chain when cruising on the flat with either type of bike, most likely the loads are higher for a DF in the hills.

I would say that mechanics for professional cyclists and even mechanics who make their living by working on bikes are probably the worst people to turn to for advice on how to get the most life out of a chain. Mechanics for race teams will just replace the part at the end of a few races and a shop mechanic will suggest replacement more often to save other parts and/or make more money for the shop.


From what I gathered on these and other forums I've read on this same subject, my chain wear is on the high side of the averages that most people get AFTER I switched from wax...so I must be doing something wrong!!

The debate is over, all we're doing is :deadhorse2: and getting nowhere fast.