Bicycle Mechanics - Front wheel friction problem

I'm very confused...I took my bike over to Harris Cyclery yesterday to have a couple things looked at, ask a bit of advice, and pick up a new shifter cable. I had experienced problems with excessive friction and related noises (squeaking and clanking) coming from the front wheel, and the guy I spoke to told me that my axle cones were overtightened. I don't have cone wrenches, so he adjusted it for me, and it was working fine for the whole rest of the day yesterday (8-9 miles' worth of riding), and then for another mile and a half or so today...but then suddenly, the friction and noise reappeared.

The wheel spins mostly freely in reverse, but then when you go spin it forward, it stops quickly.

If it matters, it's an early '70s Columbia Sports III 3-speed that I understand to be home-built to some degree, by a relative of the Craigslist seller I bought it from. The wheels look to be all original, or at least from the same time period.

flip the wheel around.

flip the wheel around.

If I'd had my wrench out with me on the ride today, I'd have tried that...I do recall reading that some front hubs have particular directions they're supposed to go in...how would I tell if mine is like that?

I suspect there's something messed up with your bearings, cones, or axle. Would recommend taking the hub apart, replacing any worn parts - incl. all ball bearings, and regreasing it.

The only front hubs I know of that are direction specific are a few dynamo hubs.

some sturmey archer hubs for raleighs are like that as well.

these hubs are easy to tell by the one piece nut, instead of two on each side.
the hex nut goes on the outside of the fork, the round one is cone adjustment, there's no lock nut.
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3561856/1085846999007_hub_raleight_front_nos.jpg

most all modern ones are like this with one nut for cone adjustment, one nut to lock the cone nut in place and another nut that goes on the outside to hold the wheel in place.
http://www.jensonusa.com/product/hu/HU407A19_____32.jpg

I'll take a look at the hub and nut layout a bit later tonight, and perhaps try flipping it around to see if that helps.

This is my hub:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/MetalWarrior/Mobile%20Uploads/0915092136.jpg

It would be cheaper to replace the wheel than have the hub on that rebuilt.

Another idea is to pick up a used $20 from a thrift store for parts. The wheels may be in better condition.

That wheel is worth about $2.

Another idea is to pick up a used $20 from a thrift store for parts. The wheels may be in better condition.


That wheel is worth about $2.


It would be cheaper to replace the wheel than have the hub on that rebuilt.

I don't understand these replys?? Although that is a cheapie wheel it should still be easy to service. All the OP needs to do is read up on how to clean and repack the hub, which is really really simple. It does not appear to have lock nuts so it could be on backwards and tightening itself up.

New bearings are usually a nickel each, that might improve things a bit.

I'm gonna try flipping it around today, and if my ride(s) haven't improved, I'll look into cleaning it or picking up a new wheel, if I can find one of the correct size for a decent price.

Another idea is to pick up a used $20 from a thrift store for parts. The wheels may be in better condition.

Can get a new wheel for $20:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=31537
or buy it from Harris Cyclery for $30:
http://harriscyclery.net/product/various-manufacturers-26-x-1-3-8-590-front-wheel.-w-steel-rim-36-spokes-2731.htm

In any case, I would take it apart and inspect it first. If the cup and cones look ok, then replace the bearings and grease it liberally. Only a couple of dollars for a bag of bearings. Even if the OP doesn't have cone wrenches or the hub doesn't have cone lock nuts, putting on the wheel and tightening it up on the fork while keeping the adjustment can be done. Do it all the time with my old 3-speed.