Bicycle Mechanics - Rebuilding pedal

So I bought a set of MKS RX-1 pedals used on ebay recently, they were advertised as being smooth as glass but one of the pedals feels terrible. Is this an easy rebuild or should I get a hold of the guy and try to get my money back. For the record I would much rather rebuild the pedals for the experience, and I do like the pedals. Any and all advice is appreciated.

Those are sealed-bearings in those. If it's "terrible" - you should be demanding your money back.

Nice pedals, but those replacement bearings cost...$33 per pedal:
http://shop.vendio.com/benscycle/item/899015807/?s=1253087762

That's more than I paid for the pedals, I think I'm going to have to return them...

I couldn't find those. Great! Whoah! - $33 for one pedal.....

Open it up and get the number off of the bearing seals or shields. If there is no number measure them. They are metric and you should be able to get bearings here. http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id172.html

$33 for one pedal is nothing. Do you guys realize how much the pedals retail new for?

Yep - $124.95 I believe. They look really nice, too. The fact remains that the seller left out a very large detail when he sold them.

Yep - $124.95 I believe. They look really nice, too. The fact remains that the seller left out a very large detail when he sold them.

Caveat emptor. I hardly ever deal ebay anymore. Way too much inconsistency from seller to seller.

Open it up and get the number off of the bearing seals or shields. If there is no number measure them. They are metric and you should be able to get bearings

+1 if you want to rebuild it the bearings are almost certainly a generic size and should be easily available. You could probably spend $3 to $100 each depending on how exotic you want them to be. If there isn't a number just measure the ID, OD and width. Eg. good 'ol 6003 bearings are 17x35x10, 608 bearings are 8x22x7, etc. There's no need to pay more by buying the bearings from a bike shop since the whole idea of using this type of bearing is that the parts are an industrial standard and easily available.

PS, I'd at least ask the seller to pay for the replacement bearings if you do decide to keep them....

I've actually already returned them, I think I'm going to look for a heavier pedal with loose ball bearings. Anybody know anything about the entry level MKS track pedal?

I've actually already returned them, I think I'm going to look for a heavier pedal with loose ball bearings. Anybody know anything about the entry level MKS track pedal?

Pedals are pedals (anything metal > $10 anyways). The MKS offerings are perfectly fine. Easily serviceable.

MKS pedals, at lease the inexpensive ones, come out of the box too tight and bone-dry. The first thing you should do - before installing them on the bike - is to disassemble them and lubricate the cups & races with lots of grease. Reassemble and adjust perfectly as you can. And tighten down the lockring good and tight. You may have to try several times before you get it right.

The second pedal, and all after that, will be much easier.

MKS pedals, at lease the inexpensive ones, come out of the box too tight and bone-dry. The first thing you should do - before installing them on the bike - is to disassemble them and lubricate the cups & races with lots of grease. Reassemble and adjust perfectly as you can. And tighten down the lockring good and tight. You may have to try several times before you get it right.

The second pedal, and all after that, will be much easier.

+1
And, after you do that, you should be good to go for a long time.

+1
And, after you do that, you should be good to go for a long time.

+2 :thumb:

My GR-9's are almost as smooth as my 1982 Campagnolo Record pedals. Nice!

+2 :thumb:

My GR-9's are almost as smooth as my 1982 Campagnolo Record pedals. Nice!

Do the GR-9's have sealed bearings?

Nope. Loose 1/8th inch ball-bearings. The older Campy Records also have loose bb's. And those turn more smoothly than many sealed-bearing pedals I've examined. It seems to me that very few people these days have ever overhauled their pedals, whereas it used to be a standard procedure.

Nope. Loose 1/8th inch ball-bearings. The older Campy Records also have loose bb's. And those turn more smoothly than many sealed-bearing pedals I've examined. It seems to me that very few people these days have ever overhauled their pedals, whereas it used to be a standard procedure.

That's what I was hoping, I'm trying to get away from sealed bearings where I can, I like being able to easily service my stuff. I'm not sure if I want to go with the track pedal or the gr-9, but I'm glad to know they are both loose ball.

Do note - the GR-9 pedals are designed to by ridden with toe-clips & straps. Which can be a shock to those who've only ridden with pedals you attach to your shoes.

Do note - the GR-9 pedals are designed to by ridden with toe-clips & straps. Which can be a shock to those who've only ridden with pedals you attach to your shoes.

I planned on getting toe-clips and straps regardless of which pedal, I love the versatility of a soft soled shoe, as I usually use my bikes as transportation. I have a set of old campy pedals designed with the toe clips that I absolutely love. I think I just had myself sold on track pedals for some reason, I think I got caught up in the NJS thing, I don't know why. The GR-9 probably makes a lot more sense for what I plan on using it for.

I think I got caught up in the NJS thing, I don't know why.

Because you want to be a hipster. NJS parts aren't necessarily cheaper, faster or lighter. Doesn't make any sense. Usually it's the opposite of all three attributes.

Well I, too, cycle in cheap sneakers. I'm equally comfortable on the GR-9's, the Campy (Quill) Records, or the quill-types - with toe-clips & straps - I have on my 3-speed PUCH. I'm no so-called (and they wish) 'hipster.' I'm an out & out radical! :eek: :D

I can engage my feet into toe-clips & straps as fast - or faster - than the clip-in crowd on their carbon-framed Poindexter's. Or whatever.

I can engage my feet into toe-clips & straps as fast - or faster - than the clip-in crowd on their carbon-framed Poindexter's. Or whatever.

I bet I can clip in and out 30 times faster than you can with clips and straps.

Bet'cha can't! N'yah! N'yah!

That's what I was hoping, I'm trying to get away from sealed bearings where I can, I like being able to easily service my stuff. I'm not sure if I want to go with the track pedal or the gr-9, but I'm glad to know they are both loose ball.
You can and should service sealed radial bearings. The seal is removeable so you can clean and relube them.
That said MKS makes some nice pedals that use cup and cone bearings.
http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/pedals_and_so_on#product=none

MKS GR-9 prior to an overhaul:

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp323/nagognog/IMG_0355.jpg

I don't know that I would consider myself a hipster, I don't have nor want a fixed gear bike. I do however love simple reliable things. NJS stuff I think I like because I believe that it is built for some of the most rigorous conditions, because for some reason track racers think they are monsters. I do love easily serviced as well, which is why I turned on the pedals. Friction shifting is another thing right up my ally.

Toe straps rule btw, for anyone that doesn't use their bike exclusively for racing or paved trails, the straps allow one to stop and do things without having to change shoes, they are not a huge drop in performance, and they are very easy to get in and out of. Like Panther said, I really don't think you can clip in and out of faster than I get in and out of my straps.

Hey Panther, just wanted to say thanks, you've been incredibly helpful and informative for just about anything I've had a question about.

There seems to be a core-group in these forums who do this stuff. One of us always seems to wander into an open question and can address same.

Your welcome.

I don't know that I would consider myself a hipster, I don't have nor want a fixed gear bike. I do however love simple reliable things. NJS stuff I think I like because I believe that it is built for some of the most rigorous conditions,

All NJS is a stamp of approval. You can't make any generalizations on the quality of the components at all. You're deluding yourself if you think NJS means it's stronger.

All NJS is a stamp of approval. You can't make any generalizations on the quality of the components at all. You're deluding yourself if you think NJS means it's stronger.

Well NJS is very strict as to what they do and don't approve, so it may not be stronger, but you know anything NJS approved is going to be super strong because it did have to pass whatever testing the NJS has to certify something. I do like that it use the simpler old school technology, no external BB or carbon anything, neither of which am I against, just rather not have on my bike. NJS approved doesn't mean it's the best, but it is a sign that whatever it is, is truly top notch quality, and you know they didn't sacrifice any strength or durability.

NJS is also a manufacturing and quality standard, similar to ISO-9000 or TUV. Parts with the stamp has been tested to be able to withstand the loads imposed during Keirin racing. However, there are also a lot of un-tested parts that will also be able to handle those loads. Then again, there's also a lot more parts that cannot. If you plan on doing Keirin racing, then going with NJS parts means you don't have to worry about those parts failing. And if you plan on doing Keirin racing in Japan, you can ONLY use NJS-certified parts on your bike.

A lot of the extra cost isn't just going into higher-quality and strength, it's in the testing and certification. One of the projects I was involved with was to provide a picnic table for a certain military base near here. It had to meet MIL-SPEC-xyz and we had to prove it met those standards. So after carefully looking over the specs, we bought two redwood picnic benches from a local hardware store. We devised a test to subject the 1st table to the limits of the specs outlined in the mil-spec. There were over 15 tests that needed to be performed with rigourous precision and instrumentation. All the data was recorded with multiple redundant sensors and computers. In the end, the off-the-shelf table did meet the mil-spec and we sold the 2nd table to the base... for $40k to cover the cost of the testing!!!

BTW, if you turn the parts over, the NJS says SIN...

Well NJS is very strict as to what they do and don't approve, so it may not be stronger, but you know anything NJS approved is going to be super strong because it did have to pass whatever testing the NJS has to certify something. I do like that it use the simpler old school technology, no external BB or carbon anything, neither of which am I against, just rather not have on my bike. NJS approved doesn't mean it's the best, but it is a sign that whatever it is, is truly top notch quality, and you know they didn't sacrifice any strength or durability.

Track racing outside of japan, think the top racers care about NJS? Bradley Wiggins? Chris Hoy? Victoria Pendleton? Carbon parts as far as you can see. Carbon track drops, carbon frames, carbon wheels, hardly anything NJS, if at all.

I don't care if someone likes NJS or not or whether they want their whole bike to be NJS. But using strength as a justification for doing so is ridiculous. There are faster, stronger more durable parts out there that aren't NJS.

Track racing outside of japan, think the top racers care about NJS? Bradley Wiggins? Chris Hoy? Victoria Pendleton? Carbon parts as far as you can see. Carbon track drops, carbon frames, carbon wheels, hardly anything NJS, if at all.

I don't care if someone likes NJS or not or whether they want their whole bike to be NJS. But using strength as a justification for doing so is ridiculous. There are faster, stronger more durable parts out there that aren't NJS.

I'm just saying, you know anything NJS certified is going to be incredibly strong since it did pass the certification, also I like to avoid Carbon when I can, as I know it's strong but I still don't trust it as much as I do aluminum.