Bicycle Mechanics - What's the trick to installing this $#@! Shimano Quick Link??

I can't believe the problems I'm having installing a new Shimano UG 7 spd chain. It comes with this non-standard "quick link"; two-piece master link (see pic). It consists of a plate with two pins, and a connecting plate that secures this to the chain. The connecting plate has an enlarged opening on one end. This goes on to one of the pins, the plate is then pushed up, and the other end is pressed on to the second pin. I have tried following the instructions and a prior thread on this, and still can't get it on. I have tried bending the quick link outward with as much force as I can; and I even tried using pliars to squeeze the connecting plate on. It ain't working. I tried pushing the connecting plate as far on to the first pin as possible, tried bending the links to get it on, tried stretching the links to get it on... it ain't getting on. So much for "quick" link.

Do I even need this $#@ thing? Especially when the instructions say once it's on, it should not be installed a second time! I have a couple of extra links. Is it just as good, if not better, for me to simply install another link, instead of this "special" so-called quick link?

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii100/The_Cappucino_Kid/quicklink.jpg

Never seen that design on a shimano chain before. Interesting.

As far as your installation goes, you need to turn the faceplate 180 degrees and slide it over before you try to engage the second pin.

I can't believe the problems I'm having installing a new Shimano UG 7 spd chain. It comes with this non-standard "quick link"; two-piece master link (see pic). It consists of a plate with two pins, and a connecting plate that secures this to the chain. The connecting plate has an enlarged opening on one end. This goes on to one of the pins, the plate is then pushed up, and the other end is pressed on to the second pin. I have tried following the instructions and a prior thread on this, and still can't get it on. I have tried bending the quick link outward with as much force as I can; and I even tried using pliars to squeeze the connecting plate on. It ain't working. I tried pushing the connecting plate as far on to the first pin as possible, tried bending the links to get it on, tried stretching the links to get it on... it ain't getting on. So much for "quick" link.

Do I even need this $#@ thing? Especially when the instructions say once it's on, it should not be installed a second time! I have a couple of extra links. Is it just as good, if not better, for me to simply install another link, instead of this "special" so-called quick link?

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii100/The_Cappucino_Kid/quicklink.jpg

Read the instructions that came with the chain. It gives you precise instructions on how that link is installed.

Failing that: Call the 700 Club.

Well, I guess I just figured out the problem (I mean besides the problem of this being a REALLY craptastic design). Only because I took the link off in order to photograph it for this thread.... looking at it more closely, I realized the plate with the two pins was slightly bent outward, in the centre (maybe by my trying to get it on the chain, or maybe it came that way). This would not make it as easy to fit the connecting plate. So I bent it the other way with pliers, so the pins are slightly toward each other. This eventually helped me get it on, but even then, only with pliers; not my fingers. And not perfectly, as the pin that fits into the enlarged hole is not 100% all the way in, as much as the other pins. The chain could conceivably break at this point, if this is not the normal way its supposed to fit. But my prodding with the pliers is not getting it inserted any better; and risks making things worse. So, I'm going to try going up a steep hill and see if the chain snaps or stays in place. What's the number to that 700 Club again?

You need to turn two adjacent links 90-degrees. This gives you the room to slide the clip over the 1st pin, then straighten it out to pop over the 2nd pin. Bending the opposite plate so the tips of the two pins are closer is the key. Then release and the pins move apart and nothing is lined up with the big hole.

You need to turn two adjacent links 90-degrees. This gives you the room to slide the clip over the 1st pin, then straighten it out to pop over the 2nd pin.

Easier just to post the instructions replete with diagrams and ****.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Chain/SM-UG51/SI_0034B_13_v1_m56577569830604498.pdf

*Merdre* Tres Bon...

Video would be easiest. Anyone have one?

Did you just volunteer?

Video would be easiest. Anyone have one?

Fortunately we're not ******** enough to need one.

Operator is back, how charming. :love:

To OP: The Quick link is designed to quickly drive you mad, at least it looks like it is..

Easier just to post the instructions replete with diagrams and ****.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Chain/SM-UG51/SI_0034B_13_v1_m56577569830604498.pdf

The first Sram powerlink used the same kind of rear plate/front plate as the Shimano. You have to flex the rear plate (the one with the pins) together to get the front plate over the pins. The Sram version was just as craptastic as this one is. The new Sram Powerlink is a much better design and easier to use. Shimano will probably be copying that one is a few years:rolleyes:

You need to turn two adjacent links 90-degrees. This gives you the room to slide the clip over the 1st pin, then straighten it out to pop over the 2nd pin. Bending the opposite plate so the tips of the two pins are closer is the key. Then release and the pins move apart and nothing is lined up with the big hole.

I tried bending the adjacent links yesterday to no avail, as the pin would not align well with the large hole in the front plate. I have and had read the instructions, but I could not get the front plate to snap on as shown in figure 5. As I described in my post yesterday, and as DannoXYZ and Cyccommute describe today, the rear plate had to be bent so that the pins are closer together, to even hope getting the front plate on.

So anyway, I'm still having problems with the chain. Having ridden the bike yesterday, I feel a skip each revolution. I'm assuming it may be that the pin is not fully engaged in the large hole, if it isn't something else. One question I asked remains: can I do away with this damn quick link and just use a standard extra link to join the chain, particularly since the instructions say the quick link can't be used more than once anyway? Or is there some reason why you would need the quick link to join the chain?

that was easy one look at the pic and I figured it out

that was easy one look at the pic and I figured it out

Super. Now let's see if we can figure out why the chain is giving me problems (skipping), after I already figured out how to install it yesterday. Here's some more pix to look at. Note how the plates of the quick link are not bent outward, as with the other links:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii100/The_Cappucino_Kid/005.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii100/The_Cappucino_Kid/011.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii100/The_Cappucino_Kid/front.jpg

You shouldn't have bent those two pins together with the pliers. Just put the chain together, slide one end of the "connector" over one pin, flex the chain until you can get it over the other pin, slide it on, relax the tension, done.

You shouldn't have bent those two pins together with the pliers. Just put the chain together, slide one end of the "connector" over one pin, flex the chain until you can get it over the other pin, slide it on, relax the tension, done.

It sounds so easy when you say it.... but no seriously, the chain wasn't having none of that. It might have been flexing it in the wrong direction (outward instead of inward) that prevented the connector from fitting over the pins, but at any rate, it would not fit; with hand pressure or pliers, until I took it off and bent the pin plate inward with pliers.

Problem is, even after fitting the link, the chain was skipping, as I mentioned. I figured out the problem with that, as well. The connector plate was squeezed too tight on one pin (no matter which way round the rear plate was installed). This might be because the rear plate was bent, or it might be because this is a shtty master link design, or quality control whereby tolerances are not exact (and they have to be very much so, here). Anyway, the end result of this, is that the connector plate wasn't flexing as freely on one end. This caused the link to remain stiff, no matter how much you flex it side to side. After wasting two straight days of working on this one link, I decided enough is enough, and I stopped using it, and joined the chain with a regular link.

Operator is back, how charming. :love:



Yeah I got bored of not having to correct wrong information on this forum.

After wasting two straight days of working on this one link, I decided enough is enough, and I stopped using it, and joined the chain with a regular link.

One trusts that you used new pins? Re-using peened pins is a recipe for disaster.

One trusts that you used new pins? Re-using peened pins is a recipe for disaster.

Yeah, I used the links that came with the new chain to rejoin it. I tested it by grinding hard with the pedals to see if the chain would break, and it did not. But I have other problems... I had hoped the new chain would resolve a problem I was having with the chain skipping over the teeth, mostly in the highest gear (smallest cog in rear). Not only did it not, but its worse than the chain I had prior, which rarely did this. (Yeah, I know I might have to replace the cassette, or at least one cog on the freewheel, but its obvious to me that the chain itself is playing a role here).

Worse still, I used one link of this new chain to repair a chain on another bike (a 7 spd Minelli), which had broken due to a loose pin on one link. This newly repaired chain tested okay as far as it not breaking, after putting a load on the pedals and trying to snap it. But now it skips teeth as well (though not nearly as much as on the bike with the new chain), whereas it did not skip teeth before I repaired it with just one link from the new chain. I don't know what it is, but it may be this model of Shimano chain is incompatible with a lot of bikes. I might understand with the Minelli, as it has a Hyperglide or Hyperdrive chainring; and the new chain is a Uniglide model. But I read they were supposed to be compatible. And the other bike is an older 6 spd, so not Hyperglide.

Yeah, I used the links that came with the new chain to rejoin it. I tested it by grinding hard with the pedals to see if the chain would break, and it did not. But I have other problems... I had hoped the new chain would resolve a problem I was having with the chain skipping over the teeth, mostly in the highest gear (smallest cog in rear). Not only did it not, but its worse than the chain I had prior, which rarely did this. (Yeah, I know I might have to replace the cassette, or at least one cog on the freewheel, but its obvious to me that the chain itself is playing a role here).

Worse still, I used one link of this new chain to repair a chain on another bike (a 7 spd Minelli), which had broken due to a loose pin on one link. This newly repaired chain tested okay as far as it not breaking, after putting a load on the pedals and trying to snap it. But now it skips teeth as well (though not nearly as much as on the bike with the new chain), whereas it did not skip teeth before I repaired it with just one link from the new chain. I don't know what it is, but it may be this model of Shimano chain is incompatible with a lot of bikes. I might understand with the Minelli, as it has a Hyperglide or Hyperdrive chainring; and the new chain is a Uniglide model. But I read they were supposed to be compatible. And the other bike is an older 6 spd, so not Hyperglide.

Uh.

That's not what he's asking. You need the specific shimano replacement pin to rejoin links. You cannot ride a chain that has been repinned with a used pin. No matter how much you've "tested it". It WILL break at an inopportune time and you WILL die.

Uh.

That's not what he's asking. You need the specific shimano replacement pin to rejoin links. You cannot ride a chain that has been repinned with a used pin. No matter how much you've "tested it". It WILL break at an inopportune time and you WILL die.

Good lord, does somebody pay you to be the village idiot around here, or do you just volunteer for the job?

It sounds so easy when you say it.... but no seriously, the chain wasn't having none of that. It might have been flexing it in the wrong direction (outward instead of inward) that prevented the connector from fitting over the pins, but at any rate, it would not fit; with hand pressure or pliers, until I took it off and bent the pin plate inward with pliers. The easy way to flex the tips of the pins together is to use leverage. Rather than push near the link, move your hands apart about 6-8". Hold the chain straight with the pins facing up and bend it together. You can actually apply enough leverage to bend the links together permanently so they're almost touching.

Good lord, does somebody pay you to be the village idiot around here, or do you just volunteer for the job?

I'm not the one who doesn't now how to read instructions. You got quite the nerve to insult me in this fashion on this forum. YOU are the one asking for help, not me. Should we expect this from every awesome thread you post?

I'm not the one who doesn't now how to read instructions. You got quite the nerve to insult me in this fashion on this forum. YOU are the one asking for help, not me. Should we expect this from every awesome thread you post?

Well I don't know who this "we" is who's behalf you're speaking on, I presume the voices that tell you to keep posting such nonsense, but yes, YOU should expect this from every stupid and condescending post you put up. YOU have got quite the nerve insulting me by telling me I don't know how to read the instructions. Especially when you don't even know how to read someone's post. What are you smoking, that makes you think your posts here have been "helpful"? Since you obviously are this clueless, let me go through all of your stupid posts in this thread.

Stupid post #1. "Read the instructions that came with the chain. It gives you precise instructions on how that link is installed. " (And like a proper troll, you had to quote my entire post with pic, just to say that).

I had ALREADY mentioned in my FIRST post that "I have tried following the instructions...". I even explained there step by step how the damn link is installed, and the different ways I tried to install it. Just so that people like you who can't read would not write irrelevant responses, telling me what I already knew. So I wouldn't be posting that if I hadn't already "read the instructions", genius. Figuring out how the link is supposed to be installed wasn't the problem. So your remark was utterly useless, insulting and condescending. But you didn't stop there, did you?

Stupid post #2. "Easier just to post the instructions replete with diagrams and ****."

Complete with deleted profanities. So this is you AGAIN not getting that I already HAVE those instructions, like I already SAID I did, which you would have realized if you were able to stay focused for longer than 3 seconds, and like I also said, already READ those instructions. What's even stupider about your response, is that I had ALREADY explained BEFORE you posted this mindless reply, that I had figured out on my own why the process wasn't working for me. Had you been able to understand at least that much, you would have known then that it had nothing to do with figuring out the instructions.

And like the Energizer bunny, you just keep coming back...

Stupid post #3: "Fortunately we're not ******** enough to need one. "

I presume the word that got deleted from your post this time is something like "stupid". But unfortunately, you -are- ******** enough to need one. A working brain, that is. Because in no way shape or form have you contributed -anything- to solving my chain link dilemna here; or even showing a hint that you understand what the problem is that I was having. 3 stupid posts, and all you're able to do so far is condescendingly claim no one can understand the manual. What's worse is this is the SECOND post of yours saying this, AFTER I had already explained in detail exactly why the connector plate wasn't fitting - which in case you still haven't figured out, means the manual was of no help. Wait... it just occurred to me... you don't actually know what I'm referring to by "connector plate", do you? Well, see the pics. It's the one with the hole.

Stupid post #4: "Yeah I got bored of not having to correct wrong information on this forum. "

Then you come back with THIS handy gem. The ultimate fool's wisdom, whereby you are claiming you have been "correcting wrong information" here, when you didn't even try to provide information on the specific problem I was having. When all you did here was shout "RTFM!" a dozen times, despite it being explained to you that it had been read and understood. I think you may be overextending your hype credit, to say the least.

Stupid post #5: "Uh. That's not what he's asking. You need the specific shimano replacement pin to rejoin links. You cannot ride a chain that has been repinned with a used pin. No matter how much you've "tested it". It WILL break at an inopportune time and you WILL die."

So I bit my tongue and tolerated your continuing stream of stupid contributions without comment, until this one, which was just so over-the-top stupid that it was insulting, broke the camel's back. It would have been a disservice for me to allow you to run around the forums proudly thinking you were "helping" people like this. Your like some kid in a shopping cart, screaming and throwing cans off the shelf, and thinking he's "helping" the supermarket clerk clean up the aisles. To begin with, I quite understood what he was asking, so you're the one who didn't understand, and I responded, as I had already mentioned in an earlier post, that I was using a NEW link to join the chain, which came from the original NEW chain.

Second of all, it seems that every second post I read from someone on this forum, they're saying "you will DIE!!", or "you WILL die!!" or "DIE you will!!". If that's you doing this all the time, just cut that nonsense out, ok? I'm not 8 years old, so I'm not impressed by your geeky Chicken Little theatrics. You've obviously never had a chain break on you. Well guess what, Gumby, I've had my chain break 3 times in the last week. And yet somehow, I lived to tell the tale, which suggests you may be one taco short of a combo plate. In fact, the last two times, I specifically TRIED to make the #$@!in' link break, by grinding it up a steep incline, and succeeded. All that happened is I had to kickbike for a few blocks til I got home.

So not only do I know EXACTLY what it takes to break a weak chain, I also know what it's like to have a chain break while pedalling. If you knew anything about how a bike works, you'd realize that it's losing your brakes or your handlebars you need to worry about. That you could "DIE" from. What's more likely if you lose your chain, is you don't get home as quick. But notice I said "could"; even in the case of brakes or handlebars. You, OTOH, are really that stupid that you're screaming I "WILL" have my chain break, and I "WILL" die as a result. Simply from installing a regular link, instead of a quick link. (Which means I should have been dead 3 times over by now). That's just so f<ed up stupid, I'm not even going to try to explain it to you. But if you're that much of a mind reader, then what are you doing here, when you could be making a fortune in Vegas?

Sorry I don't read posts from people who can't install chains properly even with the proper documentation. Next please.

Sorry I don't read posts from people who can't install chains properly even with the proper documentation. Next please.

Oh, okay. I see the problem now. You're insane. :twitchy: My condolences.

No matter how much you insult operator, it doesn't change the fact that re-using pins on modern chains is dangerous.


(Yeah, I know I might have to replace the cassette, or at least one cog on the freewheel, but its obvious to me that the chain itself is playing a role here).

Yeah. It's playing its role of "chain". Same with the Minelli. Unless you have a stiff link, the chain isn't the problem. Using a new chain - any new chain - on a worn cassette is.

operator may have the diplomatic skills of a flame-thrower, but his knowledge of all-things bicycle is amazing. Put on your armor and listen.

Disregard the post nazis, they know not what they do.....

It's the same design Wippermann uses on their less expensive chains, and very easy to use when you know how.

Start by putting the keyhole over the pin with the recessed side of the slot out, and sliding the plate all the way down the long end of the slot. The keyhole now almost lines up with the second pin, but the chain needs to be flexed sideways to bring the pins together a bit so you can pop the plate on. Relax the pressure and the pins move apart locking them both beyond on either side of the keyhole

You haven't been flamed on this forum until you have been flamed by "operator". Heck, I even do searches of his posts just for the entertainment value. But for his knowledge it would be intolerable -- over time I have learned respect for his contributions, as pointed as they sometimes are.

aka mr. dictionary

No matter how much you insult operator, it doesn't change the fact that re-using pins on modern chains is dangerous.

I don't know where this idea comes from that I used old pins to join my chain. Like I "tried" to explain to "operator", I simply used the regular links on the new chain to rejoin it. Instead of using the quick link. BTW, prior to this I had asked if I could get away with using one of the regular links and got no response to that. So as I wrote, I went ahead, I tested it under load, and it has not broken. Whereas a faulty chain DID break under the same test. As for it being "dangerous", I also "tried" to explain to "operator" that my chain broke 3 times recently. So that should tell you, I am living proof that it is not always dangerous to have a chain break on you. It might be under some conditions; ie. if you're going really fast and it gets caught in something after it snaps apart.


Yeah. It's playing its role of "chain". Same with the Minelli. Unless you have a stiff link, the chain isn't the problem. Using a new chain - any new chain - on a worn cassette is.

I can see no wear on the cogs of the cassettes on either bike. Still, there's something iffy about the small cog on the Norco, but the Minellli NEVER exhibited chain skip with its old chain, and it always shifted smoothly and perfectly on every gear. Why would it do so with a new chain (if it isn't an incompatibility with Uniglide and Hyperglide)? The chain on the Minelli was not in bad shape (it's just one pin on one link that got loose), and its not standard practice to replace a cassette every single time you buy a new chain.

operator may have the diplomatic skills of a flame-thrower, but his knowledge of all-things bicycle is amazing. Put on your armor and listen.

Well, I can tell you I am SURE not "amazed" by his knowledge of chains. In all his rudeness, he was not able to answer not even ONE damn question I asked in this thread. Unlike some othe respondents, he has not shown one sign that he even knows anything at all about the Shimano UG. He was not able to help me figure out why the QLink would not install on the chain, I had to figure that out on my own. In fact, the dufus was not even able to figure out the problem had nothing to do with reading the instructions, long AFTER I explained this. What's more, he couldn't even understand my original post, and figure out that I had said I already had and read the instructions. I don't see how you can be "knowledgable" if you are not even able to -read-. Furthermore, he was not able to help me figure out why the QLink was stiff, or even why it would not unstiffen with torsional flexing. I had to figure that out on my own. As I see I will have to figure out the rest of these chain problems on my two bikes.

If all he's able to do is yell at people to "Read the effin' manual", then he's not much help, is he? Particularly when he has proven unable to "read an effin' post", that says the manual is of no use. True, he DID figure out how to find a link to the manual for my chain; wow. Except I had already seen that link in a thread on BF BEFORE I posted this thread, so it was also of no use. But even if I didn't already see that link, I already HAD the instructions on paper, and third of all, I already SAID I had read them in my very first post. Then he starts running down the hall, tearing his hair out screaming "YOU WILL DIE!! YOU WILL DIE!!", because he mistakenly assumes I have used an old link to join my chain - even though I never said any such thing. And then when I calmly explain to Chicken Little that while he has zero experience of actually having a chain break on him, I have had my chain break on me 3 times recently and not suffered so much as a scratch, he still doesn't realize that he has a nasty habit of saying stupid things. So it's not -me- that needs to listen, it's -operator- that needs to listen. And learn how to read and understand what is read.

Even if this operator did have "knowledge of all things bicycle", which he certainly doesn't as I have proven in my response to him, if someone is going to insist on being rude, arrogant, insulting and condescending, I don't need their help. I don't care if he invented the bicycle, he has zero "knowledge" I can not find from another source. Including myself. Bike mechanics is not rocket science, as someone put it. If I post for assistance or another opinion, it's because I'm stuck on a problem, and looking for a shortcut to getting it resolved. I know that if I persist, I usually figure it out anyway. That's what I have had to do this time. But nevertheless, I -am- appreciative of those who have tried to help in a polite manner (even if most responses were telling me things I already knew, like how the quick link is supposed to be installed, or things I already did).


You haven't been flamed on this forum until you have been flamed by "operator". Heck, I even do searches of his posts just for the entertainment value.

That's only because you haven't seen mine. In a flame-fest, I can turn Operator into fried crispy kernel nuggets before he even gets his little booties on. But of course, I -try- not to do that, because it upsets others, and only do so if provoked by rudies. It took 5 stupid, mindless insulting posts in a row from Operator, before I finally had no choice but to kick him in the rump. So I think that's a new record for me. FWIW, I'm not even impressed by his flame responses, which are even lamer than his purportedly on topic responses in this thread. Did you even read that silly response?? He responds with this insane gesture of sticking his fingers in his ear and yelling "la la la la la I can't hear you! la la la la la" and just repeats the same nonsensical and irrelevant response he repeated throughout the thread. Saying I don't know how to read the instructions in order to join my chain, which I ALREADY SAID I joined some time ago. The very instructions he obviously never read himself, in order to understand what others here have already understood about the trick to joining this chain. So as I have shown, if someone writes something to Operator that contradicts his ignorant misguided beliefs, you can expect him to stick his fingers in his ears and yell over top of you, and pretend he doesn't hear you.

THIS http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Shimano-Shimano-9-Speed-Chain-Connecting-Pins--Pack-Of-5-287.htm Is a new pin.

Chain and cog working together is "worn into eachothers specifications". New chain (or new links in old chain) on old cog = problems.

If for no other reason, I'd simply call it quits with Shimano's chains and their use-once and throw away business model. The design, and pins, and fasteners are proprietary concoctions designed not so much for being of higher quality - as much as they designed to be a mouse-trap to their customers.

Some will argue they are the best chains. Fine, stick with 'em. I, for one, won't use them again. SRAM or any other chains out there are fine by me. But I won't touch Shimano's business-model with something as simple, really, as a bike chain! :twitchy:

This is the exact sort of problems Shimano had caused in the early 1980's. It culminated at a trade-meeting where, when Shimano spoke's rep took the podium - tables, chairs, and bottles were thrown with unmistakable meaning. :eek:

If for no other reason, I'd simply call it quits with Shimano's chains and their use-once and throw away business model. The design, and pins, and fasteners are proprietary concoctions designed not so much for being of higher quality - as much as they designed to be a mouse-trap to their customers.

Some will argue they are the best chains. Fine, stick with 'em. I, for one, won't use them again. SRAM or any other chains out there are fine by me. But I won't touch Shimano's business-model with something as simple, really, as a bike chain! :twitchy:

This is the exact sort of problems Shimano had caused in the early 1980's. It culminated at a trade-meeting where, when Shimano spoke's rep took the podium - tables, chairs, and bottles were thrown with unmistakable meaning. :eek:

People threw bottles, tables and chairs at Shimano reps?? Wow, the bike industry is more exciting than I thought. So would I be better off then just getting a cheap generic chain at Wallymart? These are old bikes and well, "SRAM" sounds like a pricey option. Especially if I have to buy new freewheels as well...



THIS http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Shimano-Shimano-9-Speed-Chain-Connecting-Pins--Pack-Of-5-287.htm Is a new pin.

Chain and cog working together is "worn into eachothers specifications". New chain (or new links in old chain) on old cog = problems.

I don't want to believe it, particularly because of the expense and complications involved in buying new cassettes and chains for two old bikes, but yeah, you could be right about that.

I don't know where this idea comes from that I used old pins to join my chain.

I asked you a question. You have not answered. Yes, you "used the regular links on the new chain to rejoin it." But you need at least two pins to do that. Where did you get the pins?



the Minellli NEVER exhibited chain skip with its old chain, and it always shifted smoothly and perfectly on every gear. Why would it do so with a new chain

Because the cassette is worn to fit the old chain. Thus is doesn't fit the new chain.

You could have (and still can) continue to use the old chain with the old cassette, understanding that both will eventually have to be changed together. Some people take their chains way past the "wear limit", which is defined so that the cassette won't have to be changed with the chain. But sometimes it does anyway.

Fwiw, I don't agree with Panthers007 about Shimano chains. You shouldn't have to break a chain during it's normal lifetime, so what's the complaint?


People threw bottles, tables and chairs at Shimano reps?? Wow, the bike industry is more exciting than I thought.
There have been (failed) revolutions too. Like 2001/2 where some manufacturers tried to replace Shimano with Campagnolo. That didn't go too well. Although Shimano sometimes acts more like a dictator than a supplier, there are usually pretty good reasons for them doing so.


So would I be better off then just getting a cheap generic chain at Wallymart? These are old bikes and well, "SRAM" sounds like a pricey option. Especially if I have to buy new freewheels as well...
Check prices before you decide what is too pricey.

But you already have two perfectly good chains, so you can afford to do some research before committing.

**** me. Operator is one charmless ****.

I asked you a question. You have not answered. Yes, you "used the regular links on the new chain to rejoin it." But you need at least two pins to do that. Where did you get the pins?


I thought it was understood... the pins are already in the links.


Fwiw, I don't agree with Panthers007 about Shimano chains. You shouldn't have to break a chain during it's normal lifetime, so what's the complaint?

I do sometimes break a chain to clean it, if its particularly rusty. But yeah, if you maintain your bike well, you may not ever have to do that.


You could have (and still can) continue to use the old chain with the old cassette, understanding that both will eventually have to be changed together. Some people take their chains way past the "wear limit", which is defined so that the cassette won't have to be changed with the chain. But sometimes it does anyway.

Wish that were the case, but it isn't. The old chain on the Minelli now skips teeth sometimes, simply because I fit a link or two from the new Shimano UG chain.

I thought it was understood... the pins are already in the links.
And how did they get there? Were they fully inserted when you got the chain, and you pressed them partially out with a chain tool to get the excess links loose?

And how did they get there? Were they fully inserted when you got the chain, and you pressed them partially out with a chain tool to get the excess links loose?

They came from the new chain (I had removed a few links because the chain was too long), so they were fully inserted at one point. I don't remember exactly how I put them on the chain, but I did of course use a chain tool to do so. And I tested it afterward by grinding on the chain; something that would break a chain with a weak pin.

<sigh> That's what I figured. Don't you read any of the links provided to you? Let me make it as clear as possible.

Once you press a pin out of a chain - even part way - you must discard the pin. You cannot re-use it.

Your "testing" demonstrates nothing relevant to this issue.

<sigh> That's what I figured. Don't you read any of the links provided to you? Let me make it as clear as possible.

Once you press a pin out of a chain - even part way - you must discard the pin. You cannot re-use it.

Your "testing" demonstrates nothing relevant to this issue.

Can you explain why it is not possible to re-use the pin??

Can you explain why it is not possible to re-use the pin??

Because you bust the rivetted ends.

I'm fully aware that's not a good explanation, but I cannot think of another way! Hopefully another poster will come along and explain better.

Ben

Because you bust the rivetted ends.

I'm fully aware that's not a good explanation, but I cannot think of another way! Hopefully another poster will come along and explain better.

Ben

A rivet can be re-peened.

A rivet can be re-peened.

I'd rather buy a new pin.

I'd rather buy a new pin.

Can you buy individual pins? I always use a new master/quick link.

edit; found them, I had never looked for them before.