Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - Anyone using an SRAM i-light dynamo?

I am starting to do more night riding and really enjoy it except for my battery lights. Looking at other battery lights made me start wondering about dynamo's (cost and everything). The SRAM i-light D7 looks good to me because it has cartridge bearings and has the same or better efficiency as the Schmidt SON, but the reviews I found also said the resistance without the light was the same as with it on but these were from 2004/2005 or so. Any one have a newer D7 and can comment on it? This is going on my Rando/road bike not a commuter. Any long term problems with the hub that anyone has found? Condensation during cold weather? I will be using it rain or shine.

Thanks

Been using mine for about a year now problem free. It is on my winter/rain commuter so wet/cold weather performance is fine. It doesn't have that much resistance, but it is my first dyno hub so I have no real point of reference.

I can't help with your question, yet. I just ordered the i-light D7 from ebikestop. Hope to build the wheel this weekend. I'll be using the LightOn! DynoLight (http://lightonlights.com/dynolight/). I'll post results, and look forward to comparing notes!

I was looking at this too, but I dont know how to proceed if I did want one. What do you do, just take the wheel you already have in front apart and put this in the center, and then wire it up? Or can you buy a wheel with it already in there?

I was looking at this too, but I dont know how to proceed if I did want one. What do you do, just take the wheel you already have in front apart and put this in the center, and then wire it up? Or can you buy a wheel with it already in there?

I personally wouldn't tear a wheel apart just to put in a dyno hub. I would build a second wheel, but it all depends on your budget and bike use. (I have seen complete wheels with this hub we are talking about for around $180, then you would still need the light(s)) There are many different lights you can buy also, some work good with just the front light, some require a taillight also so they don't burn up, some may require a bulb change. The best thing to do would be to determine what your use is going to be, where you want the light to go, and how much you want to spend. There are some sites that compare different light beams to help you determine what light you want. If I find my links I'll post them again but they are here in this forum.

I can't help with your question, yet. I just ordered the i-light D7 from ebikestop. Hope to build the wheel this weekend. I'll be using the LightOn! DynoLight (http://lightonlights.com/dynolight/). I'll post results, and look forward to comparing notes!

I was thinking about using the inoled 10+ for right now. I would like a supernova e3 but didn't want to spend that kind of cash just yet. The lights on looks good, I like the mounting options it provides. What type of riding are you getting it for?

I can't help with your question, yet. I just ordered the i-light D7 from ebikestop. Hope to build the wheel this weekend. I'll be using the LightOn! DynoLight (http://lightonlights.com/dynolight/). I'll post results, and look forward to comparing notes!

Wow, love the axle mount.

^ Yeah, me too! I'm really curious to see how the axle mount holds up and lights up the way.


I was thinking about using the inoled 10+ for right now. I would like a supernova e3 but didn't want to spend that kind of cash just yet. The lights on looks good, I like the mounting options it provides. What type of riding are you getting it for?

I was looking at the Schmidt Edelux, but decided on the DynoLight. USA built, and I do like the design. I couldn't find any reviews of it, so my order is bit of a leap of faith. We'll see; it's on its way. My lighting system is for commuting--6:00am is pretty dark now in central NC. My route takes me on some MUTs but mostly it's country roads. I have been using a NiteRider TrailRat/NightOwl set up for years, but I'm tired of lugging (and charging) batteries. Seems like the right time to give a dyno-powered lighting system a try!

I did a quick and dirty wheel build with the i-Light hub and installed the DynoLight over the weekend. My 6:00am ride into work this morning was brilliant, really. Much better than the ol' NiteRider system I had. I'm happy to be rid of the effin' battery-charging routine (and lugging that extra stuff).

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc25/f1xedgear/DynoLight.jpg

I did a quick and dirty wheel build with the i-Light hub and installed the DynoLight over the weekend. My 6:00am ride into work this morning was brilliant, really. Much better than the ol' NiteRider system I had. I'm happy to be rid of the effin' battery-charging routine (and lugging that extra stuff).

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc25/f1xedgear/DynoLight.jpg

Gah, that makes me so tempted to just order a prebuilt dyno/CR-18 hub from Velo-Orange (http://yhst-84224226242177.stores.yahoo.net/shdyhubwh.html), a Dyno Light and convert my Soho S over...

Gah, that makes me so tempted to just order a prebuilt dyno/CR-18 hub from Velo-Orange (http://yhst-84224226242177.stores.yahoo.net/shdyhubwh.html), a Dyno Light and convert my Soho S over...

Let's see if I can tempt you more: I really like the design of the DynoLight. It's solidly sturdy build is impressive. "Waterproof" says the minimalist (but clear) user manual. The light was delivered with everything needed to install with no fuss. I like the option of the axle mount. I found that having it mounted that low is fine for pavement (it really lit up those pieces of debris that my previous system just washed over), but on the trail (a multi-surface MUT), dips and rises came up sudden--i.e. for serious off-road use, if I don't know the trail, I would mount the light higher.

The Velo-Orange prebuilt wheel looks like a good deal.

Disclaimer, I just started using the DynoLight today. I have never used a dyno system before or any lighting system much above ~100 lumens, so I am not a good person to give comparative data.

f1xedgear,

What are you using for a rear light, anything in particular?

f1xedgear,

What are you using for a rear light, anything in particular?

Nope, nothin' particular. It's a Vistalite circ. 2000 (or thereabouts), two AAs. Then I put a couple more cheap blinkies on my backpack. That does the trick for me.

Nope, nothin' particular. It's a Vistalite circ. 2000 (or thereabouts), two AAs. Then I put a couple more cheap blinkies on my backpack. That does the trick for me.

I was curious about the Lighton's ability to power a rear LED... I'll probably contact them soon.

I was curious about the Lighton's ability to power a rear LED... I'll probably contact them soon.

Ah, okay. I think that's more of a question re the dynamo; my understanding is that if I wanted to run a wire to a rear light, that's not a problem. But I'm sure the Lights On! folks can say for sure.

I bit the bullet and ordered the hub. I am waiting on it and my rear hub, then I will measure and get my spokes ordered and start building my wheels. I am still wavering on the light however. I have it narrowed between the lighton, the B&M lumotec IQ Cyo and the supernova e3. Right now the supernova is winning out because I can order a single light now @ 200 (the same as the lighton) but they have the option to upgrade it to the e3 triple light on there website for around $90 to $100 later on. I really want the e3 triple but am not willing to spend that amount just yet. I like the B&M Cyo's price and light but they don't offer the upgrade path that the e3 has.

I wonder if the lighton will be upgradeable in the future because I really do like the mounting options and it looks like a sturdy light. How do you like the beam pattern? Does it light up the road signs good enough to see them?

I bit the bullet and ordered the hub. I am waiting on it and my rear hub, then I will measure and get my spokes ordered and start building my wheels.

I am impressed with the i-Light hub. It seems both good quality and value. I can't say for sure that I can tell any difference regarding drag--feels the same as before to me.


I am still wavering on the light however. I have it narrowed between the lighton, the B&M lumotec IQ Cyo and the supernova e3. Right now the supernova is winning out because I can order a single light now @ 200 (the same as the lighton) but they have the option to upgrade it to the e3 triple light on there website for around $90 to $100 later on. I really want the e3 triple but am not willing to spend that amount just yet. I like the B&M Cyo's price and light but they don't offer the upgrade path that the e3 has.

I wonder if the lighton will be upgradeable in the future because I really do like the mounting options and it looks like a sturdy light. How do you like the beam pattern? Does it light up the road signs good enough to see them?

Sounds like you're giving your lighting choice pretty careful thought, and maybe the Supernova is right for you. I do like the DynoLight's design. Compact, sturdy, Made in USA. The beam pattern works fine for me--no probs re lighting up road signs or other reflective road safety stuff that I've come across in the past several days. The beam pattern is (not unexpectedly) tighter than what I had with a 10w halogen; it's also whiter, which is something I'm fast getting used to. With the low mounting, however, there is a significant shadow cast off to the left (way left) by the front of the wheel rim--seemed odd at first, but I'm used to it now.

One of the things I find exceptionally cool about the whole dyno system is that I can just leave it on all the time. A co-worker passed me on his way home Monday afternoon (a sunny day). He said that he was surprised and impressed that he could clearly see my light in his rear-view mirrors for a long time after he passed me, in spite of a line of traffic separating us. He said the light was immediately eye catching. I have no regrets; I'm happy and very pleased with both the i-Light hub and DynoLight LED.

They say it has a hi/low/off -switch. I take it the switch is in the handlebars even when the light is mounted by the axle? And beam shape: their home page shows the light mounted with the two LEDs vertical at axle, or horizontal at handlebar. That makes me think the beam must be conical, not shaped at all? (well, technically conical is a shape too... :))

--J

^^
Well, based on my experience with this light, I'd guess that the beam pattern example shown on their web site is from a handle-bar mounting. The low/off/high toggle is located on the side/top (based on orientation) of the light itself.

Holy Snap! Check out the response I got from LightOn when I asked about compatibility of rear Dyno Light...


Joshua,
Light On! has a tail light that is scheduled to start selling on October 15th. I’ll make sure to send you notice when that time comes around.
It is super bright and visible from the side when moving or stopped. It mounts to your seat post but will adapt to rack mount or fender mounting.
Thanks you for your interest,
Brian Engelen
Light On!

Holy Snap! Check out the response I got from LightOn when I asked about compatibility of rear Dyno Light...

Ooo, cool! Post up when you get the good word. I might have to give up my liking of the-fewer-the-wires-the-better in favor of this option. Sounds just right.

f1xedgear, can you tell me how your sram hub felt out of the box? Feels like mine needs the bearings loosened. I can barely turn it. Is that how yours felt? That seems like a lot of resistance. I know it will get better after it has a rim and tire on it but still....

^^
canopus, yep, mine is the same. I wondered and was concerned, too, about the lack of spin (compared to all other hubs I am familiar with--it *does* feel like the bearings are cinched in there pretty darn tight) but assumed that it was the internal gearing (duh, it's the magnets). This being my first go with a dynohub. I am happy to report that once you get the wheel built, the spin returns--somewhat. Really, I can't tell that there's any more resistance now when I'm riding with the new wheel. But up on the stand when I spin the wheel and turn the DynoLight on and off, there is a difference. A racing wheel it is not! hehe.

The LightOn! Dynolight looks extremely interesting to me. The claimed light output is at least 4x that of any of the German street legal dynamo headlights I am aware of. I would like to see a direct photo comparison with the Lumotec IQ Cyo I am currently running. The German Lumotec dynamo lights do have the advantage of well engineered beam shape that makes them more effective for a given Lumens output than most sold in America battery powered LED headlights I have looked at or tried.

A Dynamo huib will feel "notchy" and a bit draggy even with perfectly adjusted wheel bearings due to the permanent magnets used in the dynamo portion of the hub. Peter White Cycles has a discussion of this in regards to the German SON hub on their web site with a warning to NOT try to mess with the bearing adjustment on it as they are non adjustable sealed cartridge bearings. Trying to do so can break the wires to the electrical connector on the hub.

Per the SRAM technical manual the iLight uses sealed cartridge bearings so presumably no adjustment is available. Certainly none shown.

I knew that that it would feel draggy due to the magnetic field. It was the amount of resistance that threw me for a loop. I didn't expect it to have as much resistance as it has.

Dynamo wheels do feel like they must have a ton of resistance. But when off, they are ultimately need about 1 watt more energy to spin. On, about 6-8 watts. Consider that a fit cyclist puts out about 200 watts, it's hardly significant.

Well I finally got it all together. I got the wheels built Monday night and got the Supernova e3 today.
On the short test run it was nice and bright on the MUP. I can't wait to get out on the dark country roads.

More Pictures Here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/43922308@N04/4038422947/in/photostream/)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2662/4039172678_c021bd27d5_m.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4039173410_6ef28b1200_m.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4039173786_df2ffdefae_m.jpg

Per a Wikipedia article that quotes from a German test the SRAM hub dynamo is actually more efficient than the Schmidt SON 28, at least at the measured speed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_dynamo

Per a Wikipedia article that quotes from a German test the SRAM hub dynamo is actually more efficient than the Schmidt SON 28, at least at the measured speed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_dynamo

Yes, the article says the S-RAM (66%) is 10% more efficient than the SON (65%).....

^^ That claim and the fact that it also had cartridge bearings were the two big factors that led me to purchase the SRAM hub. I am real pleased with it so far. Now the test is the longevity of it during all sorts of weather.

After my first ride after I built the wheels the hub loosened up a bit. And after I installed the light there is real difference between not having the light on vs. having it on (on the stand at least), not a big one but you can tell. However when riding you can't tell anything. I think I will be real pleased with this setup until daylight savings comes around again.

^^ +1

The price is right, too!

Do you guys have any idea what kind of Lux output these have compared to the B&M lights? The reason I ask is that they're much more expensive, and for 2-3 times the price, is it worth the money?

Do you guys have any idea what kind of Lux output these have compared to the B&M lights? The reason I ask is that they're much more expensive, and for 2-3 times the price, is it worth the money?

Do you mean the Supernova e3 light mentioned above?

Here are a series of comparison photos of various headlight beams from the Peter White Cycles web site including the e3 and the IQ Cyo lights.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp

The IQ Cyo has a considerable dark area immediately ahead of the front wheel. The Cyo R is better in this respect but you can judge the photos for yourself. Note that there are now multiple models of the e3 light with different beam shapes.

Do you mean the Supernova e3 light mentioned above?

Correct, the dynamo version of the E3.


Here are a series of comparison photos of various headlight beams from the Peter White Cycles web site including the e3 and the IQ Cyo lights.

The IQ Cyo has a considerable dark area immediately ahead of the front wheel. The Cyo R is better in this respect but you can judge the photos for yourself. Note that there are now multiple models of the e3 light with different beam shapes.

Thanks, probably 20 minutes after I posted this, I went back and re-searched the Peter White site, as he seems to have the only real comparison data on several lights.

I did see the lenses for the E3, and after I went back and re-read the specs and data, it looks like the B&M IQ Cyo puts out 90% of the light, for 50% of the cost. And you can get it with two different lenses, as well. I think I know which way I'm leaning.

I bought the Supernova e3 symetrical because I wanted a light that would display the road signs also and the assymetrical didn't look like that would do it very well. I also choose the e3 over the LightOn! because of the 5yr warranty and the fact that I could upgrade it later, either to a new single LED, or even to the triple LED system for (at the present prices) less than you could purchase the current triple for.

I had my first test ride last night (55 miles on dark back county roads in the woods) and while it isn't as bright as a floodlight the difference between this and battery lights is tangible. The difference between this light and a "to be seen" light is the fact that the light doesn't wash out due to streetlamps, or after oncoming car headlights pass you (I always had a problem picking the line back up after a car passed me, not anymore) Also cars actually dimmed their lights when approaching from a further distance away so I didn't get blinded by them. The only problem I have is with the skewer mount and that is because the front wheel throws a shadow going about 20 degrees to the left. On a straight road this isn't a problem but on a sweeping left hand turn you tend to drive into the dark spot. Other than that I wouldn't change my light choice.

I will probably upgrade in the next year or two to the triple light. As much light as the single e3 puts out I would still feel more comfortable on the road with more light. But I have to admit that this is probably adequate for my needs. I would not want any less light so I am glad I didn't go with the B&M lights.

I wish I knew someone around here that had the LightOn light because I like the Hi/Lo switch and it would be nice to make a personal comparison.

canopus;

I just installed the Light On! dynamo light on one bike. Now I need to try it out on a truly dark road as it is hard to judge light output on roads with street lights. I came down with a cold the morning after finishing the installation though so it may be a few days before I do any more night riding.

As noted on the Light On! web site the light does not reach full output until you are moving fairly fast. In that respect the IQ Cyo is better for in town use IMO as it is at full output at 5 MPH or less. The Light On! light acts more like a pair of normal dynamo lights hooked up in series per what I have read.

Sorry that we are about 1000 or more miles apart.

canopus;
I just installed the Light On! dynamo light on one bike. Now I need to try it out on a truly dark road as it is hard to judge light output on roads with street lights. I came down with a cold the morning after finishing the installation though so it may be a few days before I do any more night riding.

Don't get me wrong, the light output on my e3 is really nice, especially on dark roads. I think my desire for more light has more to do with my age than anything else. I am at that precipice, where the eyes start playing tricks (dang I hate forty-itus). The light showed everything on the road in my path very well and even the surrounding forest enough that if a deer was there I would see it. And the junk that litters the shoulders was easy to spot and avoid, even identify from 20 feet out.. I even caught some of the glass on the road that I would always miss at night.

Sorry about your cold. I am still trying to build my mileage back up after two weeks off with knee issues.
I did not like being off the bike that long.


canopus;
As noted on the Light On! web site the light does not reach full output until you are moving fairly fast. In that respect the IQ Cyo is better for in town use IMO as it is at full output at 5 MPH or less.

That is one nice thing about the e3, it reaches full brightness almost at walking speeds.