Cyclocross Racing - Chain Tension on my SS cross bike (with ENO hub)

Just had my first DNF in quite a while because my bike lost chain tension 2 laps in and I dropped my chain, binding up the rear wheel.

I just built this bike with an ENO eccentric hub laced to an open pro...has anybody else had this problem when racing on a set up like this? -I torqued the bolts on the hub pretty damned hard and was shocked how quick it lost tension.

that sucks. I like the eno, but it's not something I'd race with.
how is your chainline? if it's off then a little lost tension will let the chain come off more easily.
are you rotating the flats on the axles to get tension and then tightening the allen bolts? it works much better than trying to do it by hand. sorry if that wasn't any help and good luck.

I run an ENO on my single speed mountainbike and had this issue initially. I ended up removing paint from the clamping surface, greasing the bolts and really wrenching on them to get it to stick. Oddly a year later it doesn't take near as much tension to get the hub to stay put. I think it just needed to "seat" in the dropouts.

I appreciate the feedback: my chainline is off by about 1-1.5 mm, so not perfect but pretty close.

*new*guy: not sure what you mean by 'rotating the flats on the axles?' -I found that by pulling the wheel back by hand, then letting the rotation of the bolts as I tighten them pull the wheel to the desired tension, it came out pretty well...should I be tightening it down finger-tight, then rotating the hub with my hand, then 'locking-down' the allen bolts?

OnTheRivet: I've got a steel lemond and wondered if I should rough-up the dropouts a bit with a file (probably removing paint as well)...maybe I will try that.

I don't know if it's a good idea or not, but I also wondered about putting some gritty washers between the bolts and frame might help as well?

I appreciate the feedback: my chainline is off by about 1-1.5 mm, so not perfect but pretty close.

*new*guy: not sure what you mean by 'rotating the flats on the axles?' -I found that by pulling the wheel back by hand, then letting the rotation of the bolts as I tighten them pull the wheel to the desired tension, it came out pretty well...should I be tightening it down finger-tight, then rotating the hub with my hand, then 'locking-down' the allen bolts?

OnTheRivet: I've got a steel lemond and wondered if I should rough-up the dropouts a bit with a file (probably removing paint as well)...maybe I will try that.

I don't know if it's a good idea or not, but I also wondered about putting some gritty washers between the bolts and frame might help as well?

on the inside of the dropouts (when the wheel is in but not tightened) the hubs have some flat-sided parts of the axle that you can put a wrench on. It's hard to explain but have a look at the hub. you put a wrench on it and rotate it to adjust the tension while you tighten the allen bolts outside the dropout. The white industries site might have some info.

I also have a Poprad with an ENO but I've not had any problems. I usually tension the chain while the bike is on the ground and make sure that you tension the chain with the eccentric pointing toward the rear of the bike. I think that's confusing, let me put it another way. Facing the drive side my 19mm wrench is in the 6-9 o'clock position and I'm moving the wrench clock wise to add tension. This way if it does come loose the it will only get tighter.

I raced one all last season and never had an issue. I torque it down pretty tight, but not any more than I would anything else. I didn't use any other special tricks.