Bicycle Mechanics - old Shimano cassett

I've got an old Shimano casset that i want to remove. I've read something about it being some kind of uniglide thing but I don't really know.
Here is a pic http://ifelloff.com/bikegears/closegear-800.jpg

How do I take it apart.

Simon

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=removing+uniglide

i've already done that, I even tried the two chain whip thing but I was unsure if I had correctly identified it as a uiglide hub. I need to know if I just need to pull harder of if I'm doing it wrong.

If that last cog is off the rest of the cogs should just slide off.

none of the cogs are off!

is this a uniglide?

if so do i just work harder to unscrew the top cog?

Topmost cog on that stack looks like a 14 or 15, which could be a top cog. But all those exposed threads on the hub look like there was one already on there - since removed. Are you certain that this is how the wheel came off the bike?

Uniglide? Not important. If you're sure that the current topmost cog threads on, then use more chain whip.

That looks like 6-speed Uniglide to me but there are only 5 cogs in the photo. With Uniglide, only the top cog threads on, all the others just slide on/off. At least I've never seen a Uniglide cassette where the 2nd cog threads on and I have Uniglide cassettes with 13,14,15, and 17 as 2nd position cogs.

Are there any notches or splines in that smallest cog? It doesn't look like it to me but I can't tell for sure.
If there are notches/splines, then it is not threaded and should just slide off. Perhaps it is dug into the freehub splines a little preventing it from sliding off.

If there are no notches/splines, it might be threaded. Since the threads on the end of the freehub normally don't extend that far, perhaps someone took a top cog and put it in the 2nd position and threaded it way past the end of the threads thus jamming it on for good?

Here are some Uniglide cogs. The 2nd-6th position cogs should have notches/splines on the inside like the cog on the upper left. The threaded top cog is the lower left.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide

Yep, unscrew that smallest cog, if it doesn't have splines in the notches on the hub body. It's probably ridulously tight, and as Gonzo Bob said, screwed on too far and jammed. Ideally you can do it on a bench with two chain whips, but I loosened mine in the bike, with the bike chain on the largest cog and my foot bracing the pedal. A real bike mechanic should chime in here, and say if it is okay to strike the chain whip handle with a mallet - I don't want to advise that, and then cause an injury.

i've already done that, I even tried the two chain whip thing but I was unsure if I had correctly identified it as a uiglide hub. I need to know if I just need to pull harder of if I'm doing it wrong.

Whip it... whip it good. :thumb:

Chain whips are the safest way to remove cogs because they pit a splined sprocket against a threaded one, without putting any load on the pawls.

Make sure the whips are engaged in the proper direction to disengage right handed threads. It's really easy to get the whips backwards.

You might have been tightening the sprocket. ;)


Greg

The other possibility if the threaded sprocket has been removed (which it looks as though it has) is that the sprockets have worn notches in the splines. You'll have a wrestling match getting them off in that case.

That looks like the original design uniglide hub that Shimano tried. I have one on my 1979 Shogun. The axle holds everything in place, and when removed the cogs and freehub should just disengage from the hub shell. After you remove the top cog with two chainwhips, as previously mentioned, there are three small bolts that hold the second cog in place. Once removed, the other four slide off. PGMikeT

That looks like the original design uniglide hub that Shimano tried. I have one on my 1979 Shogun. The axle holds everything in place, and when removed the cogs and freehub should just disengage from the hub shell. After you remove the top cog with two chainwhips, as previously mentioned, there are three small bolts that hold the second cog in place. Once removed, the other four slide off. PGMikeT

Can't see the "three small bolts" in the OP's picture - where would they be?

Can't see the "three small bolts" in the OP's picture - where would they be?There are three small protusions partially hidden by the spacer in the pic of back of the cassette. They have hex head bolts which screw into the second cog on the cassette and are covered by the screw-on lockring.

Hmmm, very odd... I don't see any splines on that cog of Simon's cassette...
http://ifelloff.com/bikegears/closegear-800.jpg

that looks like the old twist tooth set up. if the OP did not take the 6th cog off it must be missing. the 5th cog has threads too and it comes off like taking a freewheel apart. this was a very shortlived setup about the same time period as Sante

that looks like the old twist tooth set up. if the OP did not take the 6th cog off it must be missing. the 5th cog has threads too and it comes off like taking a freewheel apart. this was a very shortlived setup about the same time period as Sante

It seems odd leaving a half dozen threads flapping in the breeze. Or are you saying that the first two cogs were threaded and one is just missing?

Was there a purpose to the setup?

Someone put on TWO threaded cogs at the end. Probably a 13t and 14t threaded. You may have already unthreaded the 1st 13t cog. Just unthread that 2nd 14t cog and you'll be fine. Position the 1st chainwhip on one of the middle cogs so that you can spin it clockwise. Then position the 2nd chainwhip on the smallest positioned to unscrew anti-clockwise. That's it.

FWIW - Uniglide (twist-tooth) freehubs were first introduced in 1980 with the Dura-Ace AX 6-spd line. This saw several upgrades to 7 and 8-speeds; a span of 10-years! Uniglide freewheels were also available in 6/7-spds during this time. The interesting models where 7-spd Santé and 8-spd Dura-Ace which had a freehub body with both threaded outside for a Uniglide top-cog AND threaded inner body for Hyperglide lock-ring as well. After that short-lived transition period, all freehub bodies were Hyperglide only.

BTW - Only the Santé and Dura-Ace 7-spd freewheels had 2 threaded cogs. The 2nd-to-last was threaded onto the external-threads on the freewheel body. The top-cog was threaded into internal-threads on the body.

Shimano's original Freehub with uniglide cogs was 1979, but they decided it wasn't quite right. It did move the right side bearings to the end of the axle, but using the axle to keep it all in place was unsatisfactory, I believe. I've attached a picture of my 6 speed uniglide freehub shell with the date code "DG" or July 1979. Also see Sheldon's Cassette and Freewheel article at the very end. PGMikeT

I got it off with a lot of force.
Used a chainwhip and a hammer with a chain in a vice with someone sitting on it!

If anyone is interested I could post a pic or two of what everything looks like for future reference.

Thanks for all the help!
Simon

Yeah, that would be nice. TIA


I'm still unclear, though, on whether you removed the first cog? Or was it on the bike like that with a missing cog?

I took a couple of pics of the 1979 uniglide freehub apart and together. I actually found a spare on ebay about 2 months ago, less the spacers! PGMikeT

I took a couple of pics of the 1979 uniglide freehub apart and together. I actually found a spare on ebay about 2 months ago, less the spacers! PGMikeT

You know, I have a handful of cogs that look just like this. Must have come off an old Uniglide body. I've had them sitting in a box, figuring I might need them to rebuild a cogset. But it seems like that is a very remote possibility. Could you use them? PM me if interested.