Bicycle Mechanics - I broke my bike today

Today when riding on a flat section of road, not applying any undo presure at all, my bike frame broke at the weld which connects the rear triangle's top tube (don't know proper name) to the dropouts.

Is this a common place for an aluminum frame to break? Also, this is a very nice bike, suposedly Specialized's nicest road frame (s-works sl 2001 festina edition). I'm curious to know what people think of a break like this, and what may have led to it happening.

As for fixing it, I'm working with a local bike shop to have it replaced; They said most likely I'll be getting one of the new S-Works SL frames (2002), which use a different style of tubbing (more aero), and an integrated headset. Does anyone see problems with doing a complete parts swap, minus the headset on my current frame? Specifically can I use my existing fork, and will I have fork-tube (proper name?) length issues. I ask because I currently have the stem dropped as far as it can go, and no spacers are being used on top or bottom, so it can't go any higher if the new frame requires it. I'll probibly check the web site for specific details, but I'm curious if integrated headsets require more fork tube length.


Last note; Some stats that might help detirmine the amount of stress I put on the bike.

My weight: 175lbs (I'm pretty strong if I have to be, but tend to like endurance riding over sprints; Highest power produced (computrainer) was just over 1000watts for testing once; Since I got this bike just before winter, most miles have been "base" miles at a very low exertion)

2000+ road miles, occasional dirt roads, usually just connecting to another paved road.

Lots of Mag Trainer riding and some rollers riding during December to mid-Febuary. Please note this is on top of the 2000+ road miles as I don't have rear wheel sensor. 10-16 hrs per week. I wonder if this is the main cause of stress.

Very well maintained. Pretty dry climate.

Cheers! (Wish me luck with frame replacement!)

BTW: I just drew the attached picture for clarification.

That bites! I'm sorry that happened. I'm glad you're ok though. I hope you can get a new frame/bike soon!

Poor Justin! :( I can't answer any of your technical questions, but I'm glad you didn't get hurt and hope you'll have a much better bike after it's fixed. I like your picture a lot. Good luck from now on!

Thanks for the consideration for my well being.

I actually thought it was a flat tire at first, because it sounded like air leaking intermitently. So I shouted "flat!" to the group I was with, but they didn't hear me immediatly. The guy next to me heard me and went after the group to let them know, so I went ahead and stoped; But both my tires were, of course, just fine.

I hoped back on, got in my time trial position, and started going about 28mps with a fast cadence in order to get back on.

Well the noise came back, and this time when I stood up to look at the rear tire I noticed the clean break. Oh well. Hopefully I'll get a brand new 2002 S-Work frame, I'll be sure to complain lots if they give me a hard time.

Originally posted by v18000
started going about 28mps
28 miles per second!!?? There may not be a strong enough frame! ;)

Just curious v18000,

When on the mag trainer do you get out of the saddle when occaisionally mashing the pedals?

It can exert a lot of pressure to the dropouts.

Hope the exchange goes smooth.

BTW, you look a lot like Bike Forum's Joe in that picture. Any relation?

Sorry the hear that you broke, at least you get a new one!,
For the switch - over i don`t see any problems, but ask your LBS for the details.

Originally posted by roadbuzz

28 miles per second!!?? There may not be a strong enough frame! ;)
Still slower than the speed of light, but gaining. :)

Originally posted by Greg
Just curious v18000,

When on the mag trainer do you get out of the saddle when occaisionally mashing the pedals?



Yes, but not too often. For my power test, this is a must, and that was probibly the most strain I've ever put on my bike. Sounds like this might be the culprit.



BTW, you look a lot like Bike Forum's Joe in that picture. Any relation?

Nope.

First let me say, yes this is a common place for a frame to break. any frame, not just aluminum but usually on the right side, not the left.

Second, the Festina is a very nice frame, however (there is always a however or a but) for that light of bike, Specialized sacrificed longevity. That's one of the reason it doesn't have a lifetime warranty. You are well within the warranty limits so you shouldn't have a problem as long as all your paperwork is in order.

Under normal conditions, if the break is deemed a warranty, Specialized will usually provide the needed parts that have compatability issues, fork headset and seatpost if needed. The operative word is usually.

The last thing you should know about is that Specialized NEVER covers labor. Hopefully the shop that is handling the warranty is the same shop you bought your bike from. I help my customers a lot better than a stranger off of the street. I don't think there is anything to worry about, it sounds pretty cut and dried to me.

One good reason for using a training bike is to save your ultra-light race bike for racing. Ultra-light bikes are built at the limits of strength, with very little margin. Let a heavier , less expensive bike take the abuse of daily road training.
I can think of no good reason for using an expensive ultra-light on an indoor training machine. Pick up a 2nd hand steel bike, set it up with the same riding position, and pedal away. You wont notice the increased weight, I promise.

Others have suggested that steel frames tend to offer better longevity than aluminum. Since the rider is not overly heavy, the frame has relatively few miles on it, and the break occured on the non-drive side, I strongly suspect a defective joint. Michael W. and the others are spot on -- do not train on an ultralight racing machine, unless you have a large budget.

The break is on the drive side. I hope my picture didn't confuse this. :)

Thanks for all the feedback. I sent an email to specialized's FAQ engine (via specialized.com) and got some aditional questions answer promptly. Bravo to Specialized; Now I just have to wait and see how long I'm going to be grounded. :(

I think John E's right on this one. I realise that modern aluminium alloys (6061, 7075 etc) are vastly better than bog standard aluminium, there is still a fundamental difference in the way steel and aluminium react to stress.

Normally, steel will never break unless you push it beyond it's breaking point in a single incident whereas aluminium stores up all bumps and stresses over a certain limit and will break when these bumps equal the single incident break level. I realise this is a general rule and not cast in stone but it is the reason I steer clear of aluminium bikes (as well as the fact I find them too stiff and harsh; I'm only 135-140lb).

BTW, I hope you get your new frame :) .

Hi Justin,

Been there, done that (lessee...seat tube breaking in the BB shell, right drop-out seperation, left drop-out seperation - at speed, thought that my rear wheel was catastrophically failing)

However, all my lossage was done on steel bikes. Do you mash your gears? Are you fairly heavy? Do you like to Bunny hop? I used to hop like mad, which probably caused the top tube & rt-drop-out to fail, but the left drop-out was on my former racing bike, which was probably just metal fatigue.

Just for the record, I'm 6'1", and weigh in at 85 Kilo/190 lbs

Good luck on the new frame!

ride safely,
tt

Surprisingly, in German fatigue testing, Al bikes outlasted steel or Ti bikes. The samples were small, but the real outcome was that well engineered and manufactured bikes will outlast ones which are not so well designed or made. The bikes which failled broke at sections of tube which were heat-damaged or suffered notches or stress raisers.
Although as a metal Al suffers from fatigue, as a structure, you can build in enough stregth to make a good frame. Principia are famed for their steel-like comfort as well as light weight.

:D Specialized came through with flying colors! I'll be riding my new 2002 model S-Works SL frame with new fork too (not too sure why, but cool!) before this weekend!

I have to say that I'm REALLY impressed with Specialized for getting a new frame out to me so quickly, even before they had a chance to view the original.

Cheers!

Specialized warrantied my 7-year old mountain frame no questions asked. Just got a nice new 2002 one last month. If you bought it from a good dealer, you wont have any problems.

Good Luck!