Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Buying my first road bike.

I am new to the road bike market and decided I wanted to start riding to work. I have been riding bikes for a long time, but only recently for commuting and exercise.

I got my weight down from 330 down to 290 in the last few months and was wondering if the components on this bike will be strong enough to support me.

http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2010-Product-Catalog/Road/F-Series/F95-Team.aspx

I have been trying to read up online about weight limits and know entry level is where it's at because carbon road bikes will probably hold less than their aluminum counterparts.

The rims are 36 spoke Alex R500 aluminum rim, which are supposed to be double-walled.

I am wondering if these rims will be strong enough for me?

http://bobscyclecenter.com/product/...sue-51389-1.htm
The place I want to buy them from states a Deep V aero rim.
The non-team issue has the Alex R500 rims.

IMHO: The stock bike should be fine. Get the wheels (spokes) retensioned by a decent wheelbuilder after a few hundred miles and you should be ok (as long as you aren't curb hopping, pothole diving, etc.) Why replace a perfectly good set of wheels if they haven't failed? Also, there are many myths out there regarding carbon. Most are just that, myths.
FWIW: I'm 250 ish and ride a Giant OCR carbon frame with the stock 20/24 spoke wheels. No issues w/ frame or wheels.
Enjoy!

Well i picked up the F95 from LBS yesterday for 750 OTD with helmet, water bottle and cage, pump, new seat, spare tube, and tools.


I went on my first ride last night, riding to my friends house and back, about 12mi round trip at a whopping average speed of 14mph.

Will post pics but just saying I love the bike so far!

14mph isnt too bad...

I went from my MTB (riding graded county roads... averaging 15mph) to my roadie and had a worse average first two rides on the roadie!!!

it'll go up... it is different gearing... does your F95 have a compact crank?

***ALSO this post includes "new" and "bike" so where are the pictures??????????????????????????????

It has two different gears on the front, so i think that means yes?

I love my Felt Z-80 and it's been awesome.. Great job, keep up the good work!

It has two different gears on the front, so i think that means yes?

yes I think as well..

MTB has a lower triple up front roadie taller but a double...

sweat it not your speed will increase!

At your weight I'd avoid Carbon like the plague.

I'm 375lb and I've been riding a Giant OCR1 with paired spoke aero wheels (Xero X-Lites). Other than one loose spoke creating a wobble, after the spoke was retensioned the wheels went back to perfect round/true.

I don't like the Giant OCR1 though (too small as I'm 6'7"). I much prefer Cannondales.

At your weight you really are better off not buying a complete off the shelf bike. From a safety factor alone you need a tandem rated carbon fork at your weight. Alex rims are garbage.

You'd be much better off sourcing a higher end frame used or in the secondary market, having a much higher quality wheelset built up (forget this local 'master' wheelbuilder nonsense as well, go to Peter White or do it yourself), and specing the bike with components you want.

In the early 80s a decent road bike could be parted out as everything was decent quality. Modern road bikes tend to throw on Shimano STI levers and a rear derailleur, use a cheaper front derailleur, and everything else tends to be junk not nearly at the same level...

You can buy Ultegra STI bikes that have heavy Truvativ cranks and Tektro brakes.

Build your own, its cooler that way anyway. Newer isn't always better anyway. A classic/vintage Cannondale 3.0 frame with a modern carbon fork and seatpost will embarass almost any modern frame on a bike less than $2000. Shimano 10 speed and Campy 10/11 are okay, but they are finicky.

There are very very good reasons that the unsupported touring crowd won't use anything but 8speed stuff. Its stronger, more depdendable, and requires less maintenance (read bombproof).

I have been trying to read up online about weight limits and know entry level is where it's at because carbon road bikes will probably hold less than their aluminum counterparts..

Incorrect! I snapped the aluminum frame on my $100 bike after 2 3/4 years.





The rims are 36 spoke Alex R500 aluminum rim, which are supposed to be double-walled. I am wondering if these rims will be strong enough for me?

I agree with Mtnbike! They may be good enough to get you through a couple thousand miles, but Alex is just good enough to make the sale and get the stuff out the door. You can't expect to much out of wheels on an $800 bike. Others have agreed but then posting a couple months later about Alex rim problems. Most stock rims on lower end models (below $2000) aren't all that hot. I bought my $100 roadie knowing that I would need a new rear wheel within a year. Lasted 6 months but I did 3,000 mile within that 6 months. SO depending on your mileage, you may get a year or two if you do 2,000 a year. But don't expect too much. Buy the bike but be ready to replace the rear wheel.

Yes, the bike has a compact according to the site. 50/34. A standard double is 53/39 or similar (52/42, 53 42, 52/39 blah blah blah):D

I say the bike will hold but the rear rim won't. Plus I'll have to add that on low end bikes, a rider will more than likely have crankset/Bottombracket issues. My stock crank lasted 10,000 miles after plenty of fiddling with it.

Nm!

....Most stock rims on lower end models (below $2000) aren't all that hot. I bought my $100 roadie knowing that I would need a new rear wheel within a year. Lasted 6 months but I did 3,000 mile within that 6 months. SO depending on your mileage, you may get a year or two if you do 2,000 a year. But don't expect too much. Buy the bike but be ready to replace the rear wheel.


You consider anything below $2,000 as low end?

My gosh!

A bicycle is not supposed to cost as much as a motorcycle or scooter! But that's just me.

I have trued many wheels working in the shop, and though many were indeed from larger riders - many (of similar quality, build, etc.) were from medium/smaller folks who just either did stupid stuff with the bike, or simply "ride hard" compared to other riders.

I don't know how to explain it, other than some people just ride "heavy" over pavement cracks, manhole covers, etc. and tend to wear out wheels sooner.

You consider anything below $2,000 as low end?

My gosh!

A bicycle is not supposed to cost as much as a motorcycle or scooter! But that's just me.

Yessirree! If you look at under 2k models, always the least inexpensive components. Cranks, Wheels, stems, seatposts. Buy a more expensive bike, yo get the upper end stuff, maybe even after market components.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that the general idea of this thread is durability and "clyde" friendly.
Unfortunately, the expensive "upper end stuff" does not always mean more durable or suited for a clyde. More often than not, high-end components are designed for the racing crowd who value a few grams of weight reduction at the expense of durability.
I'm not knocking those who like the "finer things" in life, I'm just saying that you don't have to drop a couple of grand to get a perfectly enjoyable bike. No bike or component will last forever but a little bit of routine maintenance and as previously mentioned, sensible riding, will go a long way to increase the life of a reasonably priced bike and mid-range components.

OP: Congrats on the new bike!! Enjoy your time in the saddle!! Before you know it, you'll be doing much longer rides at higher speeds.
We still require pics or it didn't happen!

My point is that the wheels on a $800 low end bike will not hold up for the OP.

I'm not saying low end stuff doesn't work, it's what I use. I'm saying that on a lowend bike, you will not get and Ultegra seatpost, Easton stems/bars, or 3TT components. Low end bike will have low end housebrand stuff on it.

By better components, I don't mean race worthy. It would behard for a lowend seatpost (Bonti carbon fiber) to compare with a highend bike that was equipped with something similar to a tompson seatpost.;) You won't get this stuff on a sub $2000 bike.

My Lemond came with Bontrager cranks and Bontrager wheels. No way are they clyde friendly. The mentioned are toast and tossed off the bike a long time ago POST FAILURE ( I get my money's worth first;)). That's an $1100 bike. AN $800 bike is going to have even less durable parts, I wouldn't say that's clyde friendly!:eek:

An example, my bike was $1100 equipped with a Bonti crank and low end bonti stems. 105 shifters and front derailleur No name brakes. Wife's bike was near $3000, full Ultegra, brakes shifters and both derailleurs. Better wheels. I'd hardly say that was less Clyde friendly?:p...Both by Trek!

I say under $2000 is low end as some of our friends have high end, 5-6-7-$8,000 bikes. Not saying they are clyde friendly, but not low end at this price.:eek:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2530/3824056641_4beab63060_o.jpg

My point is that the wheels on a $800 low end bike will not hold up for the OP.

I'm not saying low end stuff doesn't work, it's what I use. I'm saying that on a lowend bike, you will not get and Ultegra seatpost, Easton stems/bars, or 3TT components. Low end bike will have low end housebrand stuff on it.

By better components, I don't mean race worthy. It would behard for a lowend seatpost (Bonti carbon fiber) to compare with a highend bike that was equipped with something similar to a tompson seatpost.;) You won't get this stuff on a sub $2000 bike.

My Lemond came with Bontrager cranks and Bontrager wheels. No way are they clyde friendly. The mentioned are toast and tossed off the bike a long time ago POST FAILURE ( I get my money's worth first;)). That's an $1100 bike. AN $800 bike is going to have even less durable parts, I wouldn't say that's clyde friendly!:eek:

An example, my bike was $1100 equipped with a Bonti crank and low end bonti stems. 105 shifters and front derailleur No name brakes. Wife's bike was near $3000, full Ultegra, brakes shifters and both derailleurs. Better wheels. I'd hardly say that was less Clyde friendly?:p...Both by Trek!

That's my point. The OP stated this is his first road bike. 290# and dropping isn't a huge clyde. Not everyone has has a couple grand to spend on their first bike. Of course you're not going to get expensive parts on an inexpensive bike, that's just common sense. For many folks, $800 is high end and will last a lot longer than a $200 "Big Box Retailer" special. I'm happy for your non-clyde friends that have the 5-6-7-$8000 bikes. I'm sure thay are a pleasure to ride.

Once again the point I'm trying to make is that a midrange bike, with mid level components can be perfectly satisfactory if reasonably maintained. Does a clyde really need an Easton stem and handlebars? I never said the wheels would last forever. Not everyone rides 10,000 miles a year like 10Wheels or 3,000 in 6 months like you. It's all relative.

I just want to be sure that I understand, maintaining spokes at the proper tension, cleaning grit off the brake pads, avoiding potholes, and keeping the tires at the correct pressure will not reduce the probability of premature wheel failure? Cleaning and lubricating the drivetrain won't minimize wear?

Inexpensive, routine maintenance.

Of course you're not going to get expensive parts on an inexpensive bike, that's just common sense.

That was my point all along!:p

My point is $800 is not high end. Yes, "for some people" as you state, but not in the "whole cycling world big picture.;)


Reality is, the wheels on a high end (:p) $800 bike aren't going to be that durable.

As I often disagree with beanz, I figure I will take this time to agree with him wholeheartedly. after 2k you start to see better parts with better durability. You won't start losing durability for weight till much higher (>4-5k) price points. Up till then it is just getting better (albeit very marginally)

I have a 1200 bike, I have replaced wheels, seatpost, saddle etc (alex wheels, fuji post, san marco saddle) with components that come stock on higher end bikes. The nice part about this is you pick your upgrades as needed/wanted and you pick out the specific parts you want.


OP
You will like your bike and it will work out fine, with long miles you will decide what you needs upgrading and what works for you.

and my motorcycle cost much more :)

As I often disagree with beanz, I figure I will take this time to agree with him wholeheartedly. after 2k you start to see better parts with better durability. You won't start losing durability for weight till much higher (>4-5k) price points. Up till then it is just getting better (albeit very marginally)

I have a 1200 bike, I have replaced wheels, seatpost, saddle etc (alex wheels, fuji post, san marco saddle) with components that come stock on higher end bikes. The nice part about this is you pick your upgrades as needed/wanted and you pick out the specific parts you want.


OP
You will like your bike and it will work out fine, with long miles you will decide what you needs upgrading and what works for you.

and my motorcycle cost much more :)

Zactly. That the reason I had a Deep V built as soon as I bought my $1100 roadie. I knew the wheels wouldn't last too long. Plus the Bonti crank has been replaced by Ultegra after it failed.

...You can't expect to much out of wheels on an $800 bike. Others have agreed but then posting a couple months later about Alex rim problems. Most stock rims on lower end models (below $2000) aren't all that hot...I say the bike will hold but the rear rim won't. Plus I'll have to add that on low end bikes...


You know, the reason that these wheels tend to fail early is because they are mass produced on machines which tend to over tension the wheel resulting in early rim failures. I would suggest the OP take that stock wheel to a good wheel builder and have them re-tension the wheels. I bet that he'll get many more miles out of them than you'd think if he did that.

That was my point all along!:p

My point is $800 is not high end. Yes, "for some people" as you state, but not in the "whole cycling world big picture.;)

Reality is, the wheels on a high end (:p) $800 bike aren't going to be that durable.


My memory must be getting bad. I don't recall ever stating or even implying that $800 was a high end bike in the "whole cycling world big picture :p




after 2k you start to see better parts with better durability. You won't start losing durability for weight till much higher (>4-5k) price points. Up till then it is just getting better (albeit very marginally)
I agree - no argument here. Mr. Beanz's said that under $2K is low end and " Buy a more expensive bike, yo get the upper end stuff, ". My comment regarding durability vs weight was refering to the "the expensive "upper end stuff" " which is probably in the over $4k-$5k range like you said.


I have a 1200 bike, I have replaced wheels, seatpost, saddle etc (alex wheels, fuji post, san marco saddle) with components that come stock on higher end bikes. The nice part about this is you pick your upgrades as needed/wanted and you pick out the specific parts you want.

Did you replace the seatpost, saddle, etc because they failed or because you wanted a better quality?
Upgrading because you wanted to upgrade is a bit different than having to upgrade because of a premature failure.
There is nothing wrong with upgrading components "just because."




OP
You will like your bike and it will work out fine, with long miles you will decide what you needs upgrading and what works for you.


You know, the reason that these wheels tend to fail early is because they are mass produced on machines which tend to over tension the wheel resulting in early rim failures. I would suggest the OP take that stock wheel to a good wheel builder and have them re-tension the wheels. I bet that he'll get many more miles out of them than you'd think if he did that.

Exactly my point. No need to rush out and buy a replacement rear wheel just because it's an "under $2,000 low-end bike". Once again the point I'm trying to make is that a <$2K "Low-End" or even a <$1K entry-level bike (not to be confused with a Dept store special) can be perfectly satisfactory if reasonably maintained. Upgrade components if you like.



That the reason I had a Deep V built as soon as I bought my $1100 roadie. I knew the wheels wouldn't last too long.

So let me ask a rhetorical question, "If I buy a new bike that has a pricetag under $1,000 the 1st thing I should do is buy another set of wheels because the OEM set won't hold up?"

I just want to be sure that I understand. Maintaining spokes at the proper tension, cleaning grit off the brake pads, avoiding potholes, and keeping the tires at the correct pressure will not reduce the probability of premature wheel failure? Cleaning and lubricating the drivetrain won't minimize wear and add to component life?

Again, no component will last forever. Sure, more $$$ ususally does buy better quality equipment, but the "price tag" isn't the only factor in component longevity.

Inexpensive, routine maintenance.

So let me ask a rhetorical question, "If I buy a new bike that has a pricetag under $1,000 the 1st thing I should do is buy another set of wheels because the OEM set won't hold up?"

I just want to be sure that I understand. Maintaining spokes at the proper tension, cleaning grit off the brake pads, avoiding potholes, and keeping the tires at the correct pressure will not reduce the probability of premature wheel failure? Cleaning and lubricating the drivetrain won't minimize wear and add to component life?



You are missing something here. I said my crank lasted 13,000 miles then I replaced it with an Ultegra. Stock crank parts on low eend bikes are not the same quality as the major mfgr's. Do you think a Bonti/Isis cartridge crank is as good as or last as long as an outboard Ultegra set?

I said I built a wheel knowing that the low end wheelset would not last. Then I said that I used th wheels to get my money worth after doing what I could to get the most from them. But no, low end stuff will not last like an Ultegra hub with a Veloicty Deep V.;)

I said the same things , get what you can form the stock parts, maintain them to the max, but they will not be or last as long as the good stuff.

IS it real to expect stock wheels on an $800 bike to last and be durable under a 270 lb CLyde? IMO, NO!;)

We're almost on the same page - Sure better components will last longer. And I think we both agree that maintenance is important
I guess where we still disagree is that I believe someone doesn't have to spend $2,000 or more to get a decent, durable bike. Is that Low-end / entry level? Sure it is. But IMO many of the components including the stock wheels on an $800 entry level bike can last alot longer than many folks think - as long as they are properly maintained.

Maybe we can get a ride report from the OP?

Maybe we can get a ride report from the OP?

That would be nice! Only problem is there are tooooo many durability reports by riders posting after 100 miles!:D Or by riders that claim "no problem in 2 years" when they only ride 500 a year.:p

I squeezed 3,000 out of my stock wheel but that was less than 6 months for me "THAT" year. It might take some posters 3 years to hit 3,000 miles. Not that there is anything wrong with that!;)

But yes, a report will be nice after some substantial mileage!:D

That would be nice! Only problem is there are tooooo many durability reports by riders posting after 100 miles!:D Or by riders that claim "no problem in 2 years" when they only ride 500 a year.:p

I squeezed 3,000 out of my stock wheel but that was less than 6 months for me "THAT" year. It might take some posters 3 years to hit 3,000 miles. Not that there is anything wrong with that!;)

But yes, a report will be nice after some substantial mileage!:D


Agree. But if the rider/new bike buyer "takes 3 years to hit 3,000 miles " it seems to me that the entry level stock wheels, if maintained, would be adaquate for their needs.

Agree. But if the rider/new bike buyer "takes 3 years to hit 3,000 miles " it seems to me that the entry level stock wheels, if maintained, would be adaquate for their needs.

Yeah but!...If you read my post #9, you'll see this is excatly what I said. I said that if the poster rides a couple thou a year, he may get a couple years out of the wheels. I also stated the amount I was able to get from stock wheels so that the OP could compare.;)

Seems that you are quoting only PART of my statements, taking them around in twisted cirlces, then ending right back up where I started in the first place.

I'm thinking you started reading halfway thru the thread or didn't pick up on some of my statements.

We're going nowhere with this. You have your opinion and I have mine.
Let's just agree to disagree and move on.

We're going nowhere with this. You have your opinion and I have mine.
Let's just agree to disagree and move on.


Oh, go play in the Coke thread!:p

Hey whats up trolls :)

Put about 300mi on my bike, obviously not very much but everything on the bike is holding up just fine :)

Thinking about getting different tires, lots of little rocks and such where I ride so I was thinking something a little more puncture resistant than the stock Vittoria Zaffiros, Gatorkins? Armadillos?

Hey whats up trolls :)

Put about 300mi on my bike, obviously not very much but everything on the bike is holding up just fine :)

Thinking about getting different tires, lots of little rocks and such where I ride so I was thinking something a little more puncture resistant than the stock Vittoria Zaffiros, Gatorkins? Armadillos?

How many flats have you had?

Hey I think the wheels will last about as long as most lower end stock wheels. When the start giving you problems, replace them. I'm a big carbon supporter but not all carbon is the same. Yes race crowd goes for light stuff but believe me as for cranks components etc you will never go wrong with higher end stuff. That skinny 140lbs pro will put more power to the pedals than the majority of us will ever be able to muster. I'm one of those crazy guys who spend money on their passion not make it a how much can I get for as little as I can spend. Saying that there are always deals, just look around and haggle with LBS guys they all have a supplier sheet with old stock on the list just waiting to get snapped up at good prices. My whole kit being bike, pedals, computer, wheels, tires should be at just over $10000msrp I have spent just over $6k, yes a crap load of money but hey why not. Sky is the limit and yes I'm also a big guy who happens to like good stuff and going fast. I do however really recomend to all new riders to get a good quality aluminum frame, any of the big name brands will do, with at least 105 components, use the wheels that come with it, you may get lucky and have no issues. When you do upgrade time. I started of with an aluminum bike and have moved up to my baby pictured below.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a176/bigugly1/DSC03312.jpg

No flats yet, I'm assuming you are going to tell me that if it hasn't broke yet, don't fix it, right? :)

I'm just big on preventative care, that's all.

No flats yet, I'm assuming you are going to tell me that if it hasn't broke yet, don't fix it, right? :)

I'm just big on preventative care, that's all.

When I first started road riding I went 3200 miles on $10 forte tires with No Flats.

When I rode The 42 Ride NY to LA, I had 10 flats in the first 2600 miles on $60 tires.


Ride safe.