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Old 02-24-02, 03:32 PM
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Professional paint jobs

I want to possibly get a new paint job on a fairly dark colored bike, from deep green to maybe white, but exactly like the logos and everything are now. How much will this run me? Am I looking at an exorbitant cost here? Further, heaven forbid it should nick or chip, but are there going to be bits of green showing if that happens or will the paint job be at least a few layers to try to prevent any prior green from peeking through--

I could _maybe_ live with a piant job minus the fancy logos, but I want a freaking good paint job, nothing whatsoever funky or amateur. I am not trying to hide my bike from bike theives. I am not worried about those numbskulls, I have a high level security system on my baby. And anyone theiving comes near it I will crush them to itsy bitsy pulp and drink them for brunch with my tea. Would this non-logo paint job (probably) be less pricey than the logo-paint job? Where to go? Just LBS?

Has anyone done something like this recently and have any experience? I suppose it doesn't need to be recently done

Thanks to MichaelW before who suggested this on a different topic, apologies if starting this thread is seen as tacky-- I need advice quickly because we are getting out of here ASAP and heading for the highlands of Germany!!! Thanks, J.
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Old 02-24-02, 05:04 PM
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A high-quality paint job is not cheap. You may wish to contact reputable bicycle finishing specialists, such as Jim and Susan Cunningham of www.cyclart.com, for an estimate. Factory or reproduction decals, pinstripes, etc. will significantly increase the cost, but may improve your bike's appearance.

Repainting is not a job for the typical LBS, few of which have the clean rooms, ovens, and expertise you will need.

If your bike is a collectible or may become one, DO NOT REPAINT IT unless the finish is shot.
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Old 02-24-02, 05:16 PM
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I remember seeing adds for quality paint jobs, as John was describing, starting at about $150. and up. If you want it done right, this is the way to go.
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Old 02-25-02, 01:08 PM
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TooTall,
To give you an idea, a local guy who does breathtakingly beautiful work charges $160 for a basic one color paint job, frame only, fork extra. That does not include any special effects or decals. He can get decals made that exactly duplicate anything on the bike in any color. Each decal is extra. A highly detailed job can run into some money, but then you can tell his work from a mile away because it puts factory paint to shame. I have a frame hanging in the queue in his shop right now.

Ask at local shops, they may know of someone locally. Otherwise you may have to ship it to one of the places that advertises in Velo News, etc.
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Raymond
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Old 02-27-02, 01:39 AM
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Any professional painter will remove the old paint to the metal before painting, so no wosrries about the old paint showing thriugh after chipping.

Ride On
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Old 02-27-02, 11:08 AM
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Originally posted by pat5319
Any professional painter will remove the old paint to the metal before painting ...
Another reason to go to a painting/finishing specialist, who has the sandblasting equipment your LBS probably lacks.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Old 02-27-02, 04:19 PM
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I've had bikes painted and done it myself when I worked in an autobody repair shop. Definately go with the pros on this one. It will be worth it.

If you have access to Velonews magazine they always have classified ads in the back for painting services, from fairly cheap to ultra expensive. Even the cheap guys will prep your frame by bead-blasting it (like sand blasting but more gentle on the the thin bike tubes), prime it multiple times, color coat it and clear coat it after the decals (if available) are applied. The more you pay the better the job, the more hand sanding is done and the more coats of paint are applied.

Lots of paint services use highly toxic, but extremely durable Du Pont Imron paints (like on planes and racecars) that have a hardening agent in them, that when dry are chip resistant and high gloss. Some painters are now offering "powder coating" that isn't as toxic, goes on smooth, takes special equipment and many of the bikes sold retail are now painted that way too. It is an electronically charged paint particles product that is attracted to the charged metal frame and the finishes are supposed to be very nice. Don't know any specific sources for those painters - sorry.

Check this link for more info.painting a bike

When I did the paint job myself, I've used spray cans and that is hopeless. Coverage is difficult and the quality is bad. The paint is thin in spots and will chip and wear out. It looks good for about 15 minutes. Wait days for the paint to cure and it will still wrinkle and chip when you put the bike back together. Even if done with a professional spraygun system it is tough to do a really good job. You also don't want to breath any of the fumes or you can get sick real fast.

The last time I had a pro do it, a LBS farmed it out to another vendor. They charged about $150 for beadblast, 2 primer coats, two coats of color (faded from blue to purple) and 2 coats of clear. No decals were available, but the frame still looks very nice. I rode it as a road bike for two years before I got another bike and have since converted it to fixed gear for commuting. A few scratches, but still glossy and colorful.
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Old 03-13-02, 07:12 PM
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Plug for a friend: Dick Speece aka Acme Paint, in Portland, OR,
503-238-0829. Paints for Davidson and Ti Cycles, Softride, Hampsten and others. Bargain price for first-class work with twenty years of experience behind it.
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