Bicycle Mechanics - Building up my frame... Did I mess up?

I bought a Lynskey R230 frame with Alpha Q CS-10 Fork and then picked up a build kit off ebay. I would like to build the bike up myself, with the help of a slightly more knowledgeable friend, so we started with the BB and crankset. Both are Ultegra 6600 and it doesn't seem to spin as easily as I would expect. Any thoughts?
Also we did apply a copper based anti-seize to the threads, but didn't grease anything else.

We want to install the headset next, but are pretty intimidated. We have all the tools necessary, but is there any chance of us damaging the frame if we mess up?

A brand new 6600 crank/BB should turn smoothly but there is a fair bit of seal and grease drag in the bottom bracket so if you throw the crank it will only go about a turn or two and then stop. This is perfectly normal and to be expected. If the crank is rough then you have a problem - maybe you preloaded the non drive arm too much?

If I were you I'd just keep going. Some people will tell you to run off to the shop but if you do this all the time you will never learn.

If neither one of you has ever built a bicycle up from a frame - I'd say you're begging for trouble. Do you have the proper tools to install a Hollowtech II (I'm supposing this is what your Ultegra BB is)? What sort of torque-wrenches are you planning on using? What type of headset did you get?

Any time you work on a bike there is a chance of messing it up.

Can't help much with the BB- sealed bearings? If so then they might just be a bit sticky from storage, could heat up up with a torch(if there are no plastic dust covers on the BB or Bearings) for a second to see if that helps. If the BB went in nicely without too much trouble you probably didn't cross thread it. Might put some grease on the spindle too.

For the headset- I assume you have a headset press? Just make sure you have the race and cup on the correct side of the headtube. If there are logos you would like to show make sure you line those up too. You should use some light lube to help you along(and help prevent any chemical welding between aluminum parts) Just take it slowly and be sure that everything is going in smoothly and evenly and you will be ok. Don't overtighten the press on the frame, you are more likely to damage the headset cup than you are the frame. Once the cup and race are properly seated all the way in don't tighten it any more.- for cheaper frames I've used a makeshift press-dont recommend it for a nice build tho.

For the fork race I use a piece of pvc pipe just wide enough to fit around the steer tube and a couple inches longer than the steer tube. Put the race on and again use a little light lube. Put the fork on something that will cushion the dropouts(like carpet) and make sure your fork blades are properly supported(dont want them to break). Use a rubber mallet to tap the race onto the crown. Sometimes this takes some considerable hitting. Just be very careful with your fork blades(dont bend or crack em.)

Just take it slow and make sure everything is going on evenly and you will be fine.

With external-bearings, such as the Ultegra 6600 Hollowtech II, it is very important that the two sides of the bottom-bracket shell be parallel. If you are unsure about your frame having it's bottom-bracket shell being 'faced' with a facer - it would be a good idea to take it to a bike-shop that has a facer and have them do this for you. The headtube would also benefit from this, too.

There are many good headset-presses out there that are very good as well. I recommend the one from Cyclus. It's a bargain:

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=180244260661&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Headset&tc=Press-Sets&item_id=CU-HP

If so then they might just be a bit sticky from storage, could heat up up with a torch(if there are no plastic dust covers on the BB or Bearings) for a second to see if that helps.

What the hell are you talking about? Why would anyone do that? We don't need more people on this forum lights their bikes on fire to try and fix a problem. One is enough (search "dork disc fire").

I'm with Panthers on the need for facing the bottom bracket shell if it has not been done or the possibility of the bearings having too much preload.

If it's new it's not gonna spin like a top. A little drag is a sign of a full load of grease and proper preload.

Any time you work on a bike there is a chance of messing it up.

Can't help much with the BB- sealed bearings? If so then they might just be a bit sticky from storage, could heat up up with a torch(if there are no plastic dust covers on the BB or Bearings) for a second to see if that helps. If the BB went in nicely without too much trouble you probably didn't cross thread it. Might put some grease on the spindle too.

This is not good advice.

The OP needs to know that

1) The preload bolt torque is 1.5nm. This is very light. It does not secure the crank. The two allen bolts on the left crank do this
2) External BB crankset like that ultegra don't typically spin very well at all new. This is normal. There is obviously normal, and then too tight even for that. It will never spin as well as a loose ball cartridge bb or a campy type square taper bb.

I'm with Panthers on the need for facing the bottom bracket shell if it has not been done or the possibility of the bearings having too much preload.

Yeah lets ignore the fact that it's

a) a titanium shell
b) no facing tool exists to face such shells

If that frame needs facing, you're basically ****ed. It shouldn't need this on a high end frame. A facing problem would manifest itself in differing crank tight spots as you rotate it around. This is easily checked.

no facing tool exists to face such shells

I did not know that.

I

We want to install the headset next, but are pretty intimidated. We have all the tools necessary, but is there any chance of us damaging the frame if we mess up?

A shop will charge you $15-$25 to install a headset on a brand new frame, if not less. That is an expensive frame to **** up. Think about it.


I
Also we did apply a copper based anti-seize to the threads, but didn't grease anything else.


This is a mistake. The spindle itself needs a light coating of grease, the interface where the left arm seats needs grease. The preload bolt needs grease. The inside circumference of the bb cups need a light coating of grease. There is nowhere on that crankset that requires anti-seize or where you could possibly put antiseize (unless the preload bolt is metal, there are two versions the other is plastic).

My guess is that the preload bolt is too tight, if not then what the OP is seeing is normal. If he's unsure, take it to the LBS to verify. While getting the headset installed anyways.

What the hell are you talking about? Why would anyone do that? We don't need more people on this forum lights their bikes on fire to try and fix a problem. One is enough (search "dork disc fire").

I'm with Panthers on the need for facing the bottom bracket shell if it has not been done or the possibility of the bearings having too much preload.

+1, while the OP is at it, if he has any trouble installing the chain I recommend he use a little gasoline and light up the drivetrain.

:crash::crash::crash::crash:

Sounds like too much preload, but as Nessisim said, there is some seal drag and it will only spin one to two times when brand new.

Yeah lets ignore the fact that it's

a) a titanium shell
b) no facing tool exists to face such shells

If that frame needs facing, you're basically ****ed. It shouldn't need this on a high end frame. A facing problem would manifest itself in differing crank tight spots as you rotate it around. This is easily checked.

I've faced several Ti frames using Bringheli cutters, both BB and head tube. No problems. Ti frames can dull out the cutters if you do them all the time but for occasional usage it's no issue.

I've had no problems facing Ti BB-shells with standard tools. The Ti likes to stretch out of the way and spring back, so you have to use less force with lots of lube. Rather than spinning it 2-5 times like with a steel shell, you'll need 5-10 revolutions.

I've had no problems facing Ti BB-shells with standard tools. The Ti likes to stretch out of the way and spring back, so you have to use less force with lots of lube. Rather than spinning it 2-5 times like with a steel shell, you'll need 5-10 revolutions.

This is good to know - thanks! I've never tried to face a titanium frame-set. Yet. But as these external-bearings gain more and more popularity - as I believe they will - a good facer is going to be essential.