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Hi all,
I was at a pawn shop and I saw a setup for $125 with two small tanks (about 2ft high). It looked like it had all hoses and gauges, it might not have had the check valve that prevents a flame from creeping down the hose. It did have a cutting torch.
Does this sound like a good price? Sorry for the awkward post, I'm sending this from my phone....
Homebrew01
10-13-09, 11:55 AM
Aren't the chack valves built into the guages ?
What condition are they in ? What does a new set go for ?
I have seen rigs for 60 bucks on craigs. They are never what a bike builder would want, normally cutting set-ups.
Also, the way refills work around here is that even if you own the tanks you are always swapping them, otherwise it would be a nightmare of making several trips and tracking tanks. If you get some old tanks, they may be fine, but will your local supplier fill them or trade them? There must be another system, since I go into shops and see some prehistoric tanks.
The problem is how do you know what you are getting, there can be delicate issues in the regulators etc...
The backflow or anti-flash valves can fit on the hose. Because if they were in the regulators the gas in the hose blowing can be significant, and like det cord, set stuff off somewhere along its length. Normally the valves are placed on the back of the torch, but for delicate work (and users), using light torches and kevlar hoses, some people put them between the kevlar hose and the main line. That way the gas volume at risk is smallish, and you have the handling of the light tool and hose, while eliminating a doomsday flash scenario. Some people use multiple sets.
Kent White of Tinaman claims it is difficult to get a real flashback on his little torch, and that it is normally the result of not setting the flow correctly. What he recommends is to set the regulators at a low flow volume by opening the torch to full and lighting it off the regulator controls. Get the correct mix a little hotter than normal (noisy flame correct reducing flame) and then lower to the correct heat by only now using the torch controls. This method is said to reduce the gas condition that causes flashbacks into the line. Other important points are said to be using the smaller orifices we tend to use. That they are less flash prone, though for some of our work in the 50 thou range and up that probably doesn't apply. And not forcing heat out of a smaller nozzle rather than moving up a size. I use these approaches, but I can't say whether they are actually better yet since I don't have any problems and have always used these approaches.