Road Cycling - Double or Triple

I'll be buying a bike pretty soon. Doing some research...narrowing down my choices. Should I get a double or a triple? I know a double is for racing but, a triple will help in the beginning for climbing. I would like to race...eventually...need to get into a shape that isn't round. So buy a double and deal until I get in better shape or buy a triple, just to have and not use it. What do you guys have doubles or triples?

You have no idea what you just did ... :D

You have no idea what you just did ... :D
Apparently, I started some sort of border war?

Apparently, I started some sort of border war?

Something like that. You have the double vs. tripple crowd, the campy vs. shimano crowd and sometimes the Italian vs. the rest of the world crowd.

Anyway, I'd say if it was possible try a couple of options. Try a tripple and see how it rides on a route that you think will test the gearing range a fair bit. Then try a double and see if you can handle it. Maybe try a double with a wider cassette. You can always change out the cassette on the double if you want the higher gears but don't want a tripple chainring. Personally, I ride a double - but that's because I live in Illinois. When I go up to northern wisconsin, I throw a 12-26 cassette on the bike and I'm all set. I see absolutely nothing wrong with a tripple - some do, but seeing as how it's your bike I wouldn't take any notice. I ride on sunday's with a group and there is one guy who happily rides his tripple and noone says a thing - partly because he can ride most of us into dust! Make your choice and be happy with it - it's not cheap to change your mind after the event! If you desperately want the double and get crushed by the gearing, you could always splurge for a compact crank ... but that's a lot of money too! Changing the cassette on the double is a pretty cheap way to go though.

Buying a bike is NOT easy my friend!

I've been thinking the triple all along. There are some considerable hills in the routes I've started scouting. No buying a bike is not easy. I'm learning a ton but, with more knowledge comes new questions.

I think alot of the times,most that think they need a triple dont.

Hmmmm. Well, as a sort of round person who wishes not to be, I have decided to get a double on the bike I am ordering. I felt that it would be my first goal: not to need the triple. So I have to wait 4-6 weeks for this machine, and in the mean time I'll pound the road on my MTB and hopefully be in shape enough to handle it when it gets here.

I agree with MacMan on changing the cassett on the double. Campy goes all the way to a 12-29 in their ten speed (this is what I went with for my up grade). My boss who is doing the IM-Wi this fall picket up the 12-27 shimano has improved his hill climbing a lot this year. Both of us are using the double crank. As for racing with a triple I personaly see no problem as long as you can get the top end of your gear ratios for that final sprint.

Well, there are some other things to look at too. Tripple gearing usually comes in around 52/42/30 and a classic double is 53/39. If you don't think you'll be using the granny gear much, then you'll actually be using a higher middle gear than the lower chainring on the double. Further, at purchase you can ask the LBS to swap out the cassette on the double for something higher. If it comes with a 12-23, then maybe ask for a 12-25 or a 12-27. A good few people here will say that a 12-27 and double is as much gearing as you'll need. Personally, I don't know - I've never tried riding my 12-26 up a decent mountain, but it handles all the hills I come up against in Wisconsin.

Check out Sheldon's gear calculator: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

There is also the good advice that some have given regarding the tripple - if you think you'll need it then get it for your knees if nothing else!

I agree with MacMan on changing the cassett on the double. Campy goes all the way to a 12-29 in their ten speed (this is what I went with for my up grade). My boss who is doing the IM-Wi this fall picket up the 12-27 shimano has improved his hill climbing a lot this year. Both of us are using the double crank. As for racing with a triple I personaly see no problem as long as you can get the top end of your gear ratios for that final sprint.

That's a good point. You almost have to wonder now with the 10-speeds and that kind of gearing if the tripples will begin to fade.

I was in your situation earlier this year. Had to give up running after back surgery and bought a bike (Litespeed Firenze...have to support the local company!) in order to get some sort of exercise. I gravitated towards the triple because I was new to the sport and liked the idea of having it just in case. I live in a very hilly area, Chattanooga, TN, and you really can't escape climbing. I must say I have really liked the triple and it has given me the confidence to tackle some of the local mountains that I probably would not have attempted. Although, I have found myself using it less often as I have gotten in better shape, but it is nice to have on the 2-4 mile steep mountain climbs around here. I do not regret having a triple and nobody in the club rides has said anything about it (not that I care!). If you are new to the sport I would encourage you going for the triple.......

I live in Cincinnati, which has a good amount of steep hills, but I only use the low crank sprocket of my Specialized Allez Elite with a triple crank on rare occasions. However, it's nice knowing that I have the gear, so that when I'm bonked out at the end of an arduous ride, and I have a lengthy hill in front of me, I can upshift and take it easy, so to speak.

However, my next bike will have a double.

As a person with knee problems...the triple was always the first thought. My objectives are to lose weight first and then race as I get more experience. I don't want to hit a hill and die...because I don't have the triple. Then again...I'm out of shape and unexperienced. Thinking in the present and not in 6 months to a year of where I'll be.

Apparently, I started some sort of border war?
Yeah, its the weak vrs the strong. Anyhow, get a double and use a 12/27 cassette, you can always change the cassette cheap as your needs change. (you don't want to be seen in public with a tripple) lol just had to throw that in! sorry guys!

Yeah, its the weak vrs the strong. Anyhow, get a double and use a 12/27 cassette, you can always change the cassette cheap as your needs change. (you don't want to be seen in public with a tripple) lol just had to throw that in! sorry guys!

He could always swap the rear derailleur and cassette for something even taller to go with his double, but I think the "Dinner Plate" 34 cog on the back would be just as obvious as a triple up front. I use a triple for my knees, I can't climb the hills around here with my middle ring of 42, and a 27 in the back, either.

I have a double with a 12/27 but I sure could have used a triple last Saturday with the 27.6% grade that was on the "shortcut".

I have a double with a 12/27 but I sure could have used a triple last Saturday with the 27.6% grade that was on the "shortcut".

27.6% grade?!? Crap, in Cyclocross that would be run-up. :D

I'd go for the double with a 12-27 cassette and maybe at 38 small ring if you're starting out.
Sometimes going slow in a taller gear is easier than trying to spin in an ultra low gear especially
if your cardio isn't as strong as your leg muscles (as is the case with a lot of new riders).

You could also wheel and deal with your bike shop to swap the crank on your new bike for a "compact" double. That way you will have almost the range of a triple with the front shifting of a double.

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/road/images/cranks/energy-triple_small.jpg

This non-carbon version is pretty affordable. Ritchey also has one coming that should be competitive.
Make sure the rear deraileur can handle the range. ;)

As a person with knee problems...the triple was always the first thought. My objectives are to lose weight first and then race as I get more experience. I don't want to hit a hill and die...because I don't have the triple. Then again...I'm out of shape and unexperienced. Thinking in the present and not in 6 months to a year of where I'll be.

If you have bad knees, a tripple is the best way to go. A huge hill and bad knees are a terrible mix.

Since your a newbe, go for the tripple. I find the tripple makes me shift a lot less then before. If I see a huge hill before me, I attack it by going fast into in, once I slow down by midpoint, I'll drop to the granny gear (small chainring) and spin the rest of the way up. I only have to drop one gear with a tripple and maybe a cog. If I had a double, I would have to drop several gears along the way up. If the hill was particular high, I would have to stand on the peddals.

With a tripple, once I'm over the hill, I'll just shift back to the middle chain ring and I'm set. If I had a double, I would have shift several times to get back into the correct gear which might include going back to the large chain ring!

It's strange but I spend much of my ride just moving the front derailluer accross the three chainrings.

You have no idea what you just did ... :D

LMAO..... Without being too argumentative, I myself use a triple. As my name implies, I am no spring chicken. I have never had to walk my bike up any hill, (I do have some pride.... :D ) and I probably owe that to my triple. If you are heavy, or older.....you may want to concider a triple.

I had a bike made and insisted on triples. Then, when it came time for the mountains, I found the triple irritating to use. Going to those granny gears made me feel unbelievably slow, and I would end up just using my middle and outer chainring either, and just forgot about using the granny gear after a while. It just didn't really help me any. I could spin up the hill, but it seemed to take longer. But with practice on the hills, I found that I became stronger and stayed in middle gears mostly.

My new road bike has doubles. I talked to the makers of that bike too, and when they fitted me for the new bike, I asked for a triple (before I began riding in the hills), and he insisted that I could make do with a double. He arranged for the gearing in back to have enough variety so that I could still get up the hills. He measured me for my bike dimensions and then I came back after 2 weeks to get my new bike, and he'd fitted it with doubles, just as we discussed. I wasn't able to ride in the hills with the new bike, since I had to return home, but so far, I am feeling pretty strong riding around on my road bike. I plan to return to Switzerland with both bikes next summer, and I will start out with my bike with the triples, then quickly move to the bike with the doubles.

It's all about the gearing. You could go double with the right gears, or just get triples. The sheldonbrown.com site would be a good place for you to start your research, then maybe you should do some test rides on a bike with a triple and a bike with a double and figure out which one you would feel most comfortable with.

Koffee

I had a bike made and insisted on triples. Then, when it came time for the mountains, I found the triple irritating to use. Going to those granny gears made me feel unbelievably slow, and I would end up just using my middle and outer chainring either, and just forgot about using the granny gear after a while. It just didn't really help me any. I could spin up the hill, but it seemed to take longer. But with practice on the hills, I found that I became stronger and stayed in middle gears mostly.


That's *exactly* what happed to me--I *thought* I'd need a triple, but found that I seldom used the lower gears. Moreover, the triple's shifting is not as precise as a double's since a triple relies on cable tension alone to get you into the middle chainring, whereas the double uses only the set screws (the triple surprised me quite a few time when shifting from the granny to the middle, by bouncing the chain off of the middle ring and then onto the BB).

I switched my bike over to a double last month and am extremely pleased--no more shifting problems, and no chain rub in all but the small/small combo. I can spin a 39x23 up a 9% grade w/o difficulty (and I weigh 215#!!!) and casettes are easy to swap out if you want to.

The only difference which you may find less comfortable is the slightly narrower bottom bracket (although in my case, this atually seems to have helped my knees!)--I think it has to due with how wide your hips are...?

Koffee is that the Derosa your talking about? Glad to hear you chose a double there ;)

I spent all my child hood summers in RI and imo you will not need the triple there. I agree w/ grampy on the age and knee issue but you sound like your not quite there yet and if you want to race you will need a double and here is why. Every one you race against will be on doubles that they train hard on all year long. During a race when that hill comes up and you cannot climb it in a 39x23 for example then you will be dropped. Because as your competitors spin a good cadence say 90 in a 39x23 you'll first of all loose time and power and speed just getting into the granny and then you’ll be comfy spinning at 90 in a 32x25 going half the speed of everyone else. And if you are going the same speed as every one else in that lower ratio than your HR will be sky high and you'll burn out faster.

I think people think that they can't push gears up big hills but they really can. I have a 12-27 and I cannot ride anywhere without climbing mountains. On the real steep long ones you just settle into your saddle and mash.

The key to this argument is finding out what riding you are going to do. I am fortunate enough to have several bikes so my touring bike has a triple of course to carry weight. My racing bike has a double for speed and reliability and to standardize myself with the rest of the peloton. My fixt is well fixt with one speed. If you want a racing bike for fitness and you’ll go up to New Hampshire or Vermont then a triple will serve you well. But then the compact cranks as others have suggested will probably be the best option. Every time I ride with people with triples they are always fussing with there gears. I know others will come back and say this is not so for them, so anyway good luck :)

I have a double with a 12/27 but I sure could have used a triple last Saturday with the 27.6% grade that was on the "shortcut".

Which hill are we talking about here?

-mark

Something like that. You have the double vs. tripple crowd, the campy vs. shimano crowd and sometimes the Italian vs. the rest of the world crowd.



You forgot the "Everybody hates Americans crowd"

However, having a tripple myself I wish I had a double. When buying my new OCR1, tripple was what I wanted. After only two months of biking in the Rockies and with many hills around (Cat 2 even), I do not think that I really need the granny and it is nice to have smoother and faster shifting with the double.

I've said it before and I'll say it again ... there's a real benefit in having a triple beyond just having the bailout gears. A triple is really the only way to go if you want to be able to climb decent grades and want to use a tightly spaced cassette. The benefit of a tightly spaced cassette is the ability to incrementally adjust resistence instead of having to jump two or three gear ratios. I use a 53-42-30 with a 13-23. The 13-23 is 13,14,15,16,17,18,19,21,23. I've come to love that changing gears means only slightly changing effort. I'm sure this has made me more efficient. On the downside, if I ever want to race, I may find myself shifting way too much to be competitive. Like everyone else, unless I'm on big hills I rarely use the small chainring as 42-21 and 42-23 can get me up most grades. On the lower end, 30-23 is just enough gear to get me up a 23% grade.

I've really found what I consider to be the perfect combination ... and I think of myself to be a relatively strong rider. The slightly extra weight makes no difference to me.

-mark

That's a good point. You almost have to wonder now with the 10-speeds and that kind of gearing if the tripples will begin to fade.

Who knows, way back in the day triples were only for "touring" bike and mountain bikes, the vast majority of road bikes had doubles. Today it seems you have to pay $1k+ for a bike just to get the option to put a double on it (at least out of the factory) or you have to pay the LBS to convert it.

I live in S. Florida and every time I walk into a LBS it seems 99% of the bikes have triples on them, even the bikes that have a "double" option.

As to the original question, do you really need a triple? Are you ever going to find yourself in a situation where you are going to need a gear that low? Some people will, some people won't.

Andrew

Koffee is that the Derosa your talking about? Glad to hear you chose a double there ;)




Dood, DeRosa had to practically threaten me to get me to agree to the double. If I hadn't been so star-struck when I met him, I'd be spinning up in a triple! ;)

Seriously, as far as which one you want, triple or double, is up to you- just see if there's a way you can ride in both. And I agree with whomever said this- if you are training with the double, I think you probably will end up being a stronger rider. You can get the gears to accomodate the double so that there will never be the need to "bail out".

Koffee

I switched my bike over to a double last month and am extremely pleased--no more shifting problems, and no chain rub in all but the small/small combo. I can spin a 39x23 up a 9% grade w/o difficulty (and I weigh 215#!!!) and casettes are easy to swap out if you want to.

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Is it expensive/difficult to switch from a triple to a double? What's involved?

I switched my bike over to a double last month and am extremely pleased--no more shifting problems, and no chain rub in all but the small/small combo. I can spin a 39x23 up a 9% grade w/o difficulty (and I weigh 215#!!!) and casettes are easy to swap out if you want to.
______________________

Is it expensive/difficult to switch from a triple to a double? What's involved?

Depends on the bike and what kind of BB you need. Mine took a sealed Shimano Ultegra so it was pretty simple. Parts probalby ran just under $200 (cranks, BB, RD, and chain (if necessary)). The park tool site has really good information and instructions: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml#bottom%20bracket

koffee thanks for spelling "triple" correctly....anyway my bike came with a triple (specialized allez) and I was glad to have it....now that my fitness has increased and my weight gone down my new bike will be a double

Kisses.

Start with a triple then switch to a double later on when you know better what type of riding you will be doing.

I was in your situation earlier this year. Had to give up running after back surgery and bought a bike (Litespeed Firenze...have to support the local company!) in order to get some sort of exercise. I gravitated towards the triple because I was new to the sport and liked the idea of having it just in case. I live in a very hilly area, Chattanooga, TN, and you really can't escape climbing. I must say I have really liked the triple and it has given me the confidence to tackle some of the local mountains that I probably would not have attempted. Although, I have found myself using it less often as I have gotten in better shape, but it is nice to have on the 2-4 mile steep mountain climbs around here. I do not regret having a triple and nobody in the club rides has said anything about it (not that I care!). If you are new to the sport I would encourage you going for the triple.......

I just got back into riding again as well..used to race but chose a triple because I also live in Chatt...there's only one flat road in this whole valley...and out my door it's just one hill after another...1-2 mile climbs...I am glad for the triple at the end of long rides...I can also tell I will be going back to a double someday...but for now..

I was in the same shoe as you were in b4 getting my bike and I ended up getting a triple with 12-23.

Things to analyse

Triple:

1. If you're not a strong hill rider.
2. You have plenty of mountain in yuor area
3. Not weight weenie.
4. No intension to participate in a race.
5. YOu have more confidence riding further coz you know you have the advantage
6. No ego problem or phobia of ppl pointing and laughing at you LOL

Well I did a couple of research and ended up with my triple.

That's *exactly* what happed to me--I *thought* I'd need a triple, but found that I seldom used the lower gears. Moreover, the triple's shifting is not as precise as a double's since a triple relies on cable tension alone to get you into the middle chainring, whereas the double uses only the set screws (the triple surprised me quite a few time when shifting from the granny to the middle, by bouncing the chain off of the middle ring and then onto the BB).

I switched my bike over to a double last month and am extremely pleased--no more shifting problems, and no chain rub in all but the small/small combo. I can spin a 39x23 up a 9% grade w/o difficulty (and I weigh 215#!!!) and casettes are easy to swap out if you want to.

The only difference which you may find less comfortable is the slightly narrower bottom bracket (although in my case, this atually seems to have helped my knees!)--I think it has to due with how wide your hips are...?

I was dropping my chain like that too, until I found out about 'trimming" the front derailleur back to the right a half click, then sweeping the brake lever to shift up to the middle ring. You were using Shimano, right?

Depends on the bike and what kind of BB you need. Mine took a sealed Shimano Ultegra so it was pretty simple. Parts probalby ran just under $200 (cranks, BB, RD, and chain (if necessary)).

More on the CONVERSION of triple to double -- I checked online distributors (e.g. Colorado Cyclist) today and rang up a cost of just under $200 to convert (Ultegra cranks, BB, Front Der.) Is this commensurate with what others have spent.

ALSO, don't you think my bike shop owes me something here. I live in freakin' HOUSTON, for gosh sakes. This area is flatter than a pancake. I have absolutely never needed the small chainring, and I rarely use the middle chainring. The bike I bought (Klein Aura X) is available in BOTH double and triple, and yet the bike shop never once asked me what I wanted or made me aware of the choice and its implications. Shouldn't they foot a large chunk of the price to convert?

Well, the double vs triple depends mainly on your cadence, hill climbing style and length of hills in your area assuming that you are a reasonably strong rider.

Here in FL, our longest hill is half a mile and averages 7% with a 12% max. So I don't need a triple here. But on long hills, I like to sit and spin. When I go to places with mountains, I ride a triple. The choice is more a matter of climbing style then your fitness. If you like climbing at a low cadence, well you probably do not need a triple.

nothing is more stupid than doing something cuz it's fashionable. If you (whomever you are) ride a double and look down on someone for riding a triple, get over yourself.

Checking in from left field...What's the weight differential between a triple and a double?
A

Checking in from left field...What's the weight differential between a triple and a double?
A

I computed this last nite. Using Ultegra as a reference:

TRIPLE: cranks = 760g, bb = ___, f.der = 88g.

DOUBLE: cranks = 643g, bb = 221.5, f.der = 81g

Info not available for the triple-bb, but the weight savings on the cranks and f.der is 124g or 4.4 ounces (1/4 pound). Not spectacular. I would guess the bb would save at most another ounce or so?

Thanks Towlie, that is exactly what I was looking for. My first (and current) road bike has a triple, but I am definitely more of an Ullrich type cyclist (big gnarly gears in the climbs). Ultegra double it is!
A

I'm new heavy rider (215), and I have a hard time on some of the wisconsin hills even with 30-25. I can't see myself getting to the point where I don't want the triple or at least a compact crank with a cassette that goes to 27. I don't have trouble shifting, but I do get dropped on hills. I can't say I wouldn't get dropped on hills if I had a double though. I'm guessing its a combination of the load/engine for me. I can generally like to spin at 90-95, and find myself usually in the middle chainring for all my riding, using the large and small cogs only for hills.

DogBoy I live in Wisconsin too. The problem with the hills is that they roll, and there are a lot of them in a small space. I have a triple crank on my bike, but I have never used the "granny gear." Since I am just 18 though, and i don't have a bunch of money to throw at a bike, none of the bikes I can afford come with a double crank. Trust me I asked. I think the choice between a double and tripple crank all depends on personal preference. Some like having the safety net of the "granny gear." Others won't ever come close to touching it, and they know it. It's all up to you.

Better to have it and not need it, than to need and not have it.
Go for the triple; the extra inner chainring can always be removed.

Over weight, bad knees, get the triple. My new bike has 52-42-30 rings. I'm on the 42 maybe 90% of the time. With the nine speed cogset (12-26), it's a real nice range, I only shift the front on hills. If you use a 39 or smaller on a double crank, you will be shifting between chainrings more frequently. I use the 30 a couple of time every day.

If I want to convert from a triple to a double, is there anything else in addition to the crankset that I'll need to change?

If I want to convert from a triple to a double, is there anything else in addition to the crankset that I'll need to change?

You'll need to change your left shifter and you will probably need a different bottom bracket since the spindle lengths are different between a double and a triple. You will also need to adjust your front derailleur and remove some links from your chain to resize it appropriately.

You'll need to change your left shifter and you will probably need a different bottom bracket since the spindle lengths are different between a double and a triple. You will also need to adjust your front derailleur and remove some links from your chain to resize it appropriately.

You don't need to change the left shifter, and if the chainrings are the same size as before, you don't need to resize your chain. If you replace the crank with a double, you do need a new bottom bracket (at least with Shimano).

You don't need to change the left shifter

True although if you don't change the left shifter, you'll have a lot of ghost positions. For instance when downshifting from the outer ring to the inner ring, you'll hit a missing middle ring position on the first click.