Bicycle Mechanics - Wheel building question: Stripped nipple

Ok, so I am building a set of wheels (just my second set ever) and i am to the point where the true is almost dead on, and I strip a nipple!!! Curse my budget all-in-one spoke wrench!

Anyway, it is a 32 spoke wheel. Would it hurt to unscrew that one spoke and replace it without "detensioning" the rest of the spokes? Will the rest hold, pretty much, the shape?

what might you guys suggest?

Would it hurt to unscrew that one spoke and replace it without "detensioning" the rest of the spokes? Will the rest hold, pretty much, the shape?

Yes, it's no problem, just like replacing a broken spoke.

...and I strip a nipple!!! Curse my budget all-in-one spoke wrench!

what might you guys suggest?

I'd go the Justin Timberlake route and claim it was a "wardrobe malfunction."

Are these aluminum nipples? If you're rounding out brass, I'd worry that the spoke tension is way too high.



Yes, it's no problem, just like replacing a broken spoke.
If I replaced a spoke, I would detension all of the spokes first. It's not absolutely necessary, but if you want even tension without the risk of having to true the wheel very often in the future, you do it right.

1. Did you use a drop of lightweight oil at the seat of each nipple?

2. You normally don't need to detension a wheel in order to replace a nipple or spoke.

3. However, if in the process of torquing up a new nipple you find yourself at the point of stripping the nipple again - detensioning may be required in order to give the nipple "some room" to work with.

4. If no matter what you do you strip the nipple again - especially near the joint - then you are dealing with a really stiff spot on the rim - which more often than not occurs near the joint - moreso on cheaper rims. (Happens alot on Weinman DP-18s for example...higher end rims tends to have more QA work on the joints to ensure more even tensioning in the joint area. Kruzer Kings are another poor joint example.)

5. Don't forget to stress relieve two rotations every now and then while bringing the wheel back up to snuff.

6. (Hopefully you don't have a bad rim spot combined with alloy nipple situation - that makes it even more challenging.)


=8-)

My major concern would be that the OP is putting way too much tension into his wheels. The other concern is not lubing the nipple/rim interface and using a low quality spoke wrench. The standard park wrench isn't expensive.

You need a spoke wrench that holds all four corners of the nipple.

First try just replacing the nipple. If you can't get the wheel true then you need to detension and start again. I have found that a spoke failure seems to throw the whole wheel out. ;-(

You need a spoke wrench that holds all four corners of the nipple.

You do not need this on standard 32 spoke wheel.

And when you're spoke shopping get a nipple wrench that fits correctly. Cheap tools cause expensive damage. Good tools that work well save you far more in the end.

Consider just this one case where your time to go get a new spoke. Not to mention that if you stripped one nipple then there are certainly others that are really close to being stripped also. And if you have to drive to get the spoke you just added the cost of gas onto that cost in time. Not to mention the nickel they'll want to charge for the new nipple.... :D

You do not need this on standard 32 spoke wheel.

You do if you're stripping the nipples.

Here's what you need: http://www.bikeparts.com/productinfo/Spokey-spoke-wrench-red-325mm-27422-79760.html

You do if you're stripping the nipples.

/woosh

If you're stripping nipples on a 32 spoke wheel, you are overtensioning or not lubing something that needs to be lubed. Pertaining to a new wheelbuild with fresh brass nipples. The four sided spoke wrench is slower to use and increases build time, and above all unecessary for the majority of 28,32,36 new wheelbuilds.

Anyone who builds wheels for a living would know this.

Operator is right. If it's a standard traditional build (28,32, 36 spoke) you'd only be rounding out nipples if you're making the tension too high, especially if the nipples are brass.

He also mentions in the first post that he's using one of those ring style cheap poorly fitting all-in-1 spoke wrenches. I had issues with rounding spokes with one of those when I first started bicycle wrenching as well. And it sure wasn't due to over tensioning. Just trying to make cheap poorly fitting tools do the job. It got tossed in favour of some Park wrenches pronto.

He also mentions in the first post that he's using one of those ring style cheap poorly fitting all-in-1 spoke wrenches. I had issues with rounding spokes with one of those when I first started bicycle wrenching as well. And it sure wasn't due to over tensioning. Just trying to make cheap poorly fitting tools do the job. It got tossed in favour of some Park wrenches pronto.

Park wrenches are good if you get the newer design that holds all four corners.

Maybe there's too much being read into this. On the 32 spoke wheel, he's got 31 nipples that aren't stripped. Probably got careless and didn't get the wrench on the nipple in question properly, using a less than ideal spoke wrench, and there you go, stripped nipple.

If this is indeed the case, then I agree with rogerstq in post #2.

Park nipples are good if you get the newer design that holds all four corners.

Ignorance is bliss hmm?

strip = threads
round = "head" that contacts the spoke wrench.

if he's stripping the nipple, his spoke wrench is obviously doing a good enough job.

strip = threads
round = "head" that contacts the spoke wrench.

if he's stripping the nipple, his spoke wrench is obviously doing a good enough job.

If you want to play that game then it's "flats", not "head".

Ignorance is bliss hmm?

I meant "wrenches" (corrected).

strip = threads
round = "head" that contacts the spoke wrench.

if he's stripping the nipple, his spoke wrench is obviously doing a good enough job.

You're right, he said "strip" but I'd bet it was actually "round". Freudian slip?

the pedros tool has both three and four sided socketshttp://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Pro-Bicycle-Spoke-Wrench/dp/B001PDPER0/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

Ok, so I got it all sorted out. Thanks for all the replies, guys!

Seems the real screw up was hustling too quickly, and NOT lubing the contact point of the nipple and the rim, causing too much friction, and making it too hard to turn the nipple.

I swapped the nipple, lubed it, and lubed all the rest, first detensioning a bit to let the lube get in, then truing again. Its straight as an arrow now!

Will be riding on it on tuesday, hopefully it works out.

The four sided spoke wrench is slower to use and increases build time [...] Anyone who builds wheels for a living would know this.

Maybe you've never used a DT spoke wrench. The design of these affords quick and positive engagements (not like the other four-sided wrenches, including unfortunately the new Park Master Mechanic wrench) for a slip-free build that's as quick as any two-sided wrench. You can also leave it on the spoke you're working on, walk away (to get a beer for example), and know exactly where you left off when you come back. And the clever designers even left a hole on one of the handle flats in case you want to tie a string from the wrench to your shop apron or TS-2 to mitigate it "walking away".

Wow...

:notamused:

You guys just can't reliably build 110 kgf to 120 kgf tensioned wheels anymore with a regular Park Tool spoke wrench?

You guys curl up in a corner and cry like babies if you don't have a four-sider tool?


WIMPS!!!


:D

Wow...

:notamused:

You guys just can't reliably build 110 kgf to 120 kgf tensioned wheels anymore with a regular Park Tool spoke wrench?

You guys curl up in a corner and cry like babies if you don't have a four-sider tool?


WIMPS!!!


:D

Real men just use an adjustable wrench and vice grips. :D :D :D :D

Real men just use an adjustable wrench and vice grips. :D :D :D :D


he he...good one..

:thumb:

Real men just use an adjustable wrench and vice grips. :D :D :D :D

Teeth. It's Australian for spoke wrench. (apologies to that series of commercials)

:D

4. If no matter what you do you strip the nipple again - especially near the joint - then you are dealing with a really stiff spot on the rim - which more often than not occurs near the joint - moreso on cheaper rims. (Happens alot on Weinman DP-18s for example...higher end rims tends to have more QA work on the joints to ensure more even tensioning in the joint area. Kruzer Kings are another poor joint example.)

+1 Sometimes you just have to let the joint move how it likes, especially on cheaper rims. You can't smooth a fuzzy joint with spoke tension alone, it really has to be done at the factory.



5. Don't forget to stress relieve two rotations every now and then while bringing the wheel back up to snuff.

+10 This really sorts things out sometimes.



6. (Hopefully you don't have a bad rim spot combined with alloy nipple situation - that makes it even more challenging.)

Unless you're racing in the peloton, you really don't need aluminum nipples. Spare yourself the headache and use brass.