Road Cycling - Bike Size 56 - 58? (ling)

I'm in a position where I walk into a bike shop & they say "well, you'll take either a 56 or 58". I don't have all my measurements, but I'm 5'10" with a 31" inseam. Not really into to racing, although next year maybe some small local ones aren't out of the question, right now probably 15-30 miles as often as I can get away.

When I went into the only Trek LBS he said the same thing, & he only had a 56 2200 in stock. When we drove to "the city", I road a Giant TCR (nice ride, by the way), but they only had a medium in stock, had already drove 4 hours, didn't feel like driving another hour to try the large.

I'm moving up to a new ride from about a 22.5" '87 Schwinn LeTour. It seems with the 56's that I tried I only have about 1" left of the seat tube before I reach max height. I've always heard if your inbetween sizes go smaller, but I'm wondering without changing the front stem if I could creating a ride postion that would cause some shoulder pain. Is there a seat height - handlebar height proportion that's normal, & one's that's considered extreme?

I rode about 5 different bikes, & of course a 5 minute around the parking lot, it's hard to get a feel how the position will feel after an hour; not to mention I was so intrigued by each different bike, & I had my wife telling me that we drove 4 hours just for this, & we're not going home without a bike.

I test rode a Fuji Roubaix Pro - nice steel ride; Giant TCR - super sweet (yellow to boot); Tirreno 1000 - nice ride for the price ($999 after coupon) & partially great components & carbon/al frame. Would have rode some Trek's, but doesn't seem like I can even drive 4 hrs & find one in a 58 to try.

I really thought I would only have to deal with this if I ordered the bike online without riding it first.

ling (long) means I need to learn how to preview my posts.

I'm 5'10" with a 31" inseam, and I'm a bit stretched out with a 56cm. One shop swore that I'd be on a 54 if they broke out the fit kit. I'm now riding a 55cm Lemond with a 90mm 17 degree stem. When I'm "on the hoods" the handlebar blocks out the front axle when I look down.

do you have a link to a recommended sizing chart for road bikes? it would be great if the chart had an inseam chart too.

all too often i get people coming in with preconceived notions on what size they should ride, and more often than not, they are wrong. so maybe some tangible proof would be nice.

I'm 5'10" with a 32.5" inseam and I ride a 54cm.

Basically what everyone's saying is what the LBS would have fitted me with 4 yrs ago when I was looking. Now they are saying 56-58. Probably continue looking at the 56's & work on just getting the proper adjustments.

the 56 sounds good. it'll fit you "in the middle" between a 54 and a 58, so to speak. it's probably the "merckx" fit on competitivecyclist.com (which, by the way, you should go to and do the fitting system they have there free on their website). you'll fit fine and can swap stems if you need changes (for this reason, an LBS will come in handy if you make an agreement with them that u can swap stems).

otherwise, i'd just get a bike online...

sd

there is a school that preaches upsizing rather than downsizing.. im 5'10 and im on a 56...but i wouldnt mind a 58... u can get more comfy in the drops

the base frame fiting cal is
inseam X .67 = starting Frame size
test these and size to fit and comfort

a 22.5" frame is about a 57cm frame

personally I have a 34 inseam and ride a 66cm frame - 27" bike and 26" frame
and have to rase the seat a couple of inches

the base frame fiting cal is
inseam X .67 = starting Frame side
test these and size to fit and comfort

a 22.5" frame is about a 57cm frame

31" = 78.74cm

78.74 x 0.67 = 52.75cm frame

This is the LeMond method, which works for me, so I'd obviously say that 56 or 58 is too big.

But if you're not racing, then comfort is probably more important.

What's more crucial (in my opinion) is top tube and head tube length. You've gotta know
how far you wanna bend over, then see if the head tube will cater for this height.

I have the same measurments. Go with the 56.

Thanks for all the comments. I don't want to knock LBS's, I'm sure I'll end up buying a bike at a (longdistance) LBS, but I think many would benefit by giving their employees a course on the general fitting of a bike.

Check out the fitting system at wrench science as well. I'm 6'1" with a 31" inseam and my current 58/59 is just a tad to big for me, the standover is poor and I'm just a bit to stretched out. If you have the same inseam, but are 2-3 inches shorter than I am you're going to be even more stretched out on the bike than I am.

Never ever let a bike shop fit you according to what bikes they have in stock.

Andrew

This bike fit is a bit of fun, if nothing else.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR&sex=M&units=cm

Check out the fitting system at wrench science as well. I'm 6'1" with a 31" inseam and my current 58/59 is just a tad to big for me, the standover is poor and I'm just a bit to stretched out. If you have the same inseam, but are 2-3 inches shorter than I am you're going to be even more stretched out on the bike than I am.

How long is your top tube?

Unless you have a bike with a high bottom bracket (say 280-300 mm rather than 265-270 mm), I don't see any real standover issues, because you don't really need any for roadway cycling.
In terms of being stretched out, there probably is a simple solution in sight: raise the bars, or change the stem for a shorter one, one with a 45-degree uprise, or both.

Many bike shops and fitting systems tend to place the bars 5-10 cm lower than the saddle, which is great for racing, but not really comfortable for the average road user. For a less competitive and more comfortable riding position -- great for randonneuring or for touring, by the way --, one should read the fitting guide at http://www.peterwhitecycles.com

Be aware that a 56cm from Specialized is like a 58cm from Trek. Specialized like most manufacturer measures seatposts from center of bottom bracket to center of top tube (c-c) while Trek, Bianchi... measure the post from center of the bb to the top of the top tube or even to the top of the seattube (c-t).
The ideal is to test ride different sizes and buy that feels the best. Usually top tube length is the easiest way to select a bike size. Then minor adjustments may be made but varying stem length or saddle position.

How long is your top tube?

I don't have the numbers in front of me, but it's a mid 90's Specialized that I'm talking about, bought it used a couple of years ago when I got back into the game. It fits, but just not very well.



Unless you have a bike with a high bottom bracket (say 280-300 mm rather than 265-270 mm), I don't see any real standover issues, because you don't really need any for roadway cycling.

I agree, the only time it's an issue is when the frame get's dumped into the trainer.



In terms of being stretched out, there probably is a simple solution in sight: raise the bars, or change the stem for a shorter one, one with a 45-degree uprise, or both.

The seat height is good, but there isn't much sticking out of the frame, the stem has been raised right up to the mark (quill stem), and I've moved the brake levers up a little on the bars so riding in the hoods is a little more comfortable. It's certainly not un-rideable, and is more than adequate for riding around, shorter rides, etc. But I wouldn't want to do any real distance on the bike.

The now ex-Pin was a 56 and was just perfect (along with just about every other 56 I've ever ridden), it's just a sweet spot on the frame size for me (most of the time).

Andrew
(all frame sizes in the list are assuming a 56 c-t measurement)

http://www.wrenchscience.com/WS1/default.asp

I checked out all the links - Thanks !! Tonite I'll do some measuring. I think it's very probable the 56 is what I need & then I'll just have to tweak it in.

After trying out these bike's I realize that although people talk about the big corp owned bike stores, but the store manager really made sure the bike was setup properly, & even recommended I try both a 56 & 58 before purchasing, & he didn't even have the 58 in stock.

Check out the fitting system at wrench science as well. I'm 6'1" with a 31" inseam and my current 58/59 is just a tad to big for me, the standover is poor and I'm just a bit to stretched out. If you have the same inseam, but are 2-3 inches shorter than I am you're going to be even more stretched out on the bike than I am.

Never ever let a bike shop fit you according to what bikes they have in stock.

Andrew

I just got fitted to order a frame and was suprised to find that I was closer to a 58cm frame vs a 62cm. They measured me at 90cm inseam and 6' 3 1/2".

I was told it is always better to go a size under than a size over...you can't lengthen the frame but you can adjust the saddle, stem, etc to get a better position on a smaller frame. Plus like Andrew said, you don't want to be TOO stretched out...starts to give you pain after awhile in the hands, arms, and neck.

I just got fitted to order a frame and was suprised to find that I was closer to a 58cm frame vs a 62cm. They measured me at 90cm inseam and 6' 3 1/2".

I was told it is always better to go a size under than a size over...you can't lengthen the frame but you can adjust the saddle, stem, etc to get a better position on a smaller frame. Plus like Andrew said, you don't want to be TOO stretched out...starts to give you pain after awhile in the hands, arms, and neck.


90cm = 35.5" inseam