Road Cycling - Need help!! Please read.

Hi,
I am fairly new to road cycling, and Have a couple of questions. I just got a new cannondale r800 and I have been riding about 4-5 days a week 15-20 mile rides. I noticed when my chain is in middle position on my crank and about middle on the rear if I get up to accelerate somthing slips the crank forward and nearly throws me off the bike. It only occurs in that gear so I have been riding avoiding that one, however I know this is not normal.

Could this be improper riding technque, or is there somthing I can tweak or adjust to make this stop?

Also I noticed on hill climbs when dancing out of the seat I think my rear wheel may be rubbing my break pad. I only happens when I am out of the seat. These seem like small things but the bike had under 500 miles on it and it should still be perfect right?

If this is not enough information to properly diagnose the problems I apologize any advice would be helpfull as I am getting very serious in to the sport of road cycling.

-Ryan

While most good road bikes are durable and built to last a very long time, it takes a lot of attention and work to keep them 100% all the time. The derailleurs and brakes need to be adjusted quite often as their tolerances are so fine it's easy for them to become slightly out of tune. Even on new bikes.

Frequent trips to the LBS can get tedious and frustrating, not to mention expensive. As you get more and more into road cycling, I would suggest you dig into learning more about some of these adjustments yourself. Most good LBS have maintenance and repairs classes and seminars and the Park Tool website can be very helpful.

As for your specific issues, it sounds like some minor adjustments are needed. Take it to the LBS where you bought and ask to watch. Hopefully they'll be open and allow you to see what they are doing. In the long run, it is very gratifying to be able to do the work yourself and don't worry, there will always be repairs you won't be willing to do that you can take to the shop.

Good luck.

55/Rad

I agree with you that it is very gratifying to do your own work and updrades to your bike. I just don't have the knowlege to be comfortable yet, but asking my LBS to show me how to do the adjustments is a good idea. I think they will accomidate as I already pre-paid for the next couple years of tune ups, $75 up front so I figured it was worth it.

Thanks for the advise, guess I kinda don't want to be without my bike for the weekend, I need two bikes!!

G'day,

agree with 55/Rad....the 'slipping' of the chain on the rear cog will be an adjustment issue. There are small adjustment screws at the rear derailuer to do this, however until you know what you are doing, get the LBS to do it (& watch & learn). The brakes rubbing 'out of the saddle' is, again, an adjustment issue. This is because 'out of the saddle' efforts create small amounts of 'wheel flex' & put strain in areas differently than normal 'spinning'. Adjust by opening the little lever above the brake pads, one notch. This should solve your problem. Depending on what gruppo you have you will also have a 'micro' adjustment above the lever (a screw mechanism),turn this & watch the brake pads open & close. You may also have misaligned your wheel when you (if you), have had it out of the frame. An old 'roadies' trick to realign easily, is to put the wheel in place, tighten the quick release a little, before it is tight, reach to the handlebars & put the brakes on. While the brakes are still on, close & lock the quick release. This will centre the wheel. A good book available in the states is "Zinn & the art of Roadbike maintenance"...it explains things in easy to understand language.A very good book for newbies. good luck,

Hitchy

Thanks, I havent removed the rear wheel, is it normal for it to become untrue in such a short amount of time?

Thanks, I havent removed the rear wheel, is it normal for it to become untrue in such a short amount of time?

g'day,

don't misunderstand me...the wheel probably isn't out of true.All wheels will flex a little, especially with 'effort', you really need to open the brakes just a little to compensate for the flex...this is normal,

cheers,

Hitchy

take the bike to your lbs and pay the $40 or $50 for a tune up, it should include all adjustments.
most good groupos will have a quick release on the brake caliper, you can open it just a bit and that should stop the brake pad from rubbing, also you can "POP" your brake caliper and sometimes that works. (come to a complete stop, squeeze the brake lever and then let it go quickly, it will pop sometimes opening the caliper that slight bit more)
good luck and ride safe

What a load of crap. The adjustment screws on the rear derailleur are the high/low limits and will not affect any shift problems in the middle of the cassette. The shifting problems are probably being caused simply bu poor djustment from cable stretch during the initial break in period and a dirty drivetrain. Have you cleaned or lubricated your chain and cassette yet?

The wheel flex will be for the most part remedied by retensioning the spokes, truing the wheels and adjusting the brakes. Although if the bike came with the Ksyrium Elites spec'ed for the bike the first two steps should not be necessary. There should be no reason to ride with the brake release partially open. Especially on an aluminum frame with Ksyriums.

Any new bike should be tuned up relatively soon after purchase. Most bike shops will (should) do the servicing for free on bikes they sell you.

I do agree, though, that it pays to learn how to do as much as this stuff as you can. You save money, you'll probably do a better job, and it adds to pride of ownership.