Commuting - What's the best quick commuting bike?

Hi All,

I ride every where, and I'm upgrading from a Trek 3500 (entry level mountain bike) to something better. I need a quick bike that can handle urban commuting with a week of groceries onboard. Any of you guys have any ideas? I was looking at the Surly Cross Check, the Bianchi Volpe, and the Kona Dr. Dew.
I've read in previous posts that I should test ride first, but being out here in Hawaii in the middle of the ocean, and being 6'6", I have a limited selection of bikes at hand. So what do you guys think?
I've got about $900 to $1000 to spend on the bike, inclusive of set up and tax and what not.

Thanks

Offhand, I would say that any bike not carrying a week of groceries is pretty quick. :)

As for what is best for you, it depends. What will you wear while riding? Are there lots of hills? How long is the trip? How often does it rain? Will youi need lights?

Paul

Cross Check.

Cross Check.

Good one.

I'll say the Volpe because that's the one I own but the Cross Check is not a bad choice. I suspect any one of the bike he selected would fit the bill.

Cross Check.

Is the stock built up Cross Check a good build up, or are there some items (other than fit like seat, stem, etc.) that are good to change out. I like the the ideas of the stock build up as I think I will quickly need a new commuter/firetrail bike. Unfortunately I'm not gonna be in the position to do much thought & time on a custom build-up.

Al

Is the stock built up Cross Check a good build up, or are there some items (other than fit like seat, stem, etc.) that are good to change out. I like the the ideas of the stock build up as I think I will quickly need a new commuter/firetrail bike. Unfortunately I'm not gonna be in the position to do much thought & time on a custom build-up.

I have a stock Cross Check (my LBS led me to believe that they had bought the frame and built the bike up themselves, but I just recently decided to check my bike against the Surly web site and found that it is *identical* to the stock build, so I guess that's what I've got!).

The two things that were changed out when I bought the bike were the stem and the pedals -- it had a flat stem, and after comparing the Surly with a Kona "Jake the Snake", I said that I liked the slightly more upright position on the Kona, so he switched out the stem (sorry, I don't know the specs on the new stem). And I also had them switch out the stock pedals (no idea what they were) for the Shimano SPD pedals that have a cleat receptacle on one side and a regular pedal surface on the other so you can ride with regular shoes. That was a $20 upgrade, I think. (I just looked at the Surly web site, and pedals are not included, anyway, so that factor will be up to you and your LBS).

Otherwise, I'm perfectly happy with the stock build. I've tried to figure out the logic behind the mishmash of componentry (Ritchey Logic headset, Deore hubs, Tiagra derailleurs, Salsa chainrings, Tektro brakes), and all I can figure is that they chose individual components on their own merits (price/value) vs. choosing an entire group. I've added a few lights, a Jandd rear rack and REI panniers, and it's making a great commuter ride.

One thing that may become an issue in the future is the rear wheel; I'm pretty big (230+ lbs.) and carry another 10-15 lbs. in my panniers, and I don't know if the 32 spoke wheel is going to hold up without going out of true every few weeks, but we'll see. I don't ride off-road, so that will probably help.

All in all, the worst thing about this bike is that I think it's so pretty, I'm worried about scratching it up on bike racks and such. I'm having a hard time letting my bike be a bike!

EDIT: Just wanted to add that this bike replaced a 1992 Bianchi Volpe, which I loved, and it is a very comparable ride. And the Kona Jake the Snake that I test rode was also very nice, but the steel frame on the Surly gave a nicer feel to the ride.

Thank you that was helpful. You are right, the stock build does not come with pedals (maybe thats what the LBS meant by they built it up ;) ) I'll put double sided SPD pedals on it (right now I use 520's, so either those or a better model)

How do you like the bar end shifters for commuting? I've never used any other shifters than the kind with two levers under my thumb with my flat MTB handlebars and down tube shifers on my very old road-bike.

I too wonder about the wheels, but really don't have any knowledge or experience on what the practial strength difference is (I weigh 200 lbs & only carry 10lb or less bag) I will ride non-tech off road.

I do prefer a less upright position, like a road bike.

How much did you pay at the LBS? I see they go for around $800-900 on-line before shipping cost. If I buy at LBS (which I much prefer for fitting, service and supporting local) I expect some mark-up, etc. but want to gauge what is reasonable.

Al

2mtr-

If i were looking at those bikes i'd try to get a bike with disc brakes that work on road handlebars. Disc brakes can stop well in the rain (so you can go faster safely) and road handlebars allow you to easily shift your weight over the pedals (that is, when you put your hands on the drops) without standing up. More weight over the pedals means that it's possible to pedal hard more efficiently, and bending over reduces air resistance a bit.

Oh, and don't forget to budget for a 20-30$ pair of fenders. :)

2mtr-
Oh, and don't forget to budget for a 20-30$ pair of fenders. :)

Just curious, if one commutes where a shower and a change of clothes are available before (and after) work and your bag is waterproof, are fenders still a good idea?

Al

Just curious, if one commutes where a shower and a change of clothes are available before (and after) work and your bag is waterproof, are fenders still a good idea?

Al

Depends. Do you want to have to wash muddy stripes out of *everything*? Will it bother you to have every mystery road substance you encounter on your commute sprayed up onto you? If you answered "yes" and then "no", save the $20! ;)

I think Surly does a good job with their stock build. I built mine up myself and wanted to include components like: XT hubs, Ultegra cranks/bb, Ultegra and XT derrailleurs, and Dura Ace bar end shifters, in addition to a 36 hole front and rear wheelset (Mavic Open Pros). I put an emphasis on durability over weight or price as I weigh 255 lbs and will use this bike for commuting as well as off road and loaded touring. As a result my final cost estimate is right around $1600 (I think). The ride is comfortable and fast and should be competent for all kinds of riding. I initially chose the bar end shifters for: reliability and ease of service and access to parts, and price (Ultegra STI-expensive). If your handlbar height is sufficient you'll enjoy these shifters. They are more of a reach that STI and as such you think someone else may outshift you, but if you're in the drops or on the hoods and hammering, they work surprisingly well. I've discovered that, for normal riding, you'll be somewhat discouraged from frequent shifting, but I think my legs are stronger for it. The frame is taught but forgiving and the horizontal rear dropout allows you to position your wheel for different types of riding (it does make a difference in terms of comfort and agility). It is a beautiful bike and I'm hesitant to get it too dirty (although I accidently dropped it yesterday and scuffed up the rr derrailleur-oh well).

Depends. Do you want to have to wash muddy stripes out of *everything*? Will it bother you to have every mystery road substance you encounter on your commute sprayed up onto you? If you answered "yes" and then "no", save the $20! ;)

I have not ridden in rain for 5yrs. Really. It just doesn't rain much here. I have been near storms and just missed them, but thru luck haven't been caught in one. But right now we are in the season when a later afternoon storm can hit - but mostly they come after my commute home is done, around sunset and later.

So I ask about fenders as I just have no experience with rain. I keep telling my wife that if I am home when a storm (without lightning) hits, first thing I'm going to do is get on my bike and cruise around the neighborhood so I can get some experience with rain, wet brakes and pavement and how my bike responds - before I get caught during my commute home with zero experience.

I do occasionally ride thur a giant puddle on the way home, it soaks me with nasty warm water that has been sitting in the 110deg sun for three days (that how long it take to dry this puddle up after a storm). But its only 1/2mi from home so I jump in the shower right after.

Al

Just curious, if one commutes where a shower and a change of clothes are available before (and after) work and your bag is waterproof, are fenders still a good idea?

Al

I'd say so, although maybe not in your case. On a fenderless bike, there is a steady stream of water mixed with grit directed right at the chain and bottom bracket. This mixture has a high content of dirty, black oil from cars. Even if you change afterwards, you may not want whatever you are wearing to acquire a black oil stripe down the back.

On the other hand, neither rain nor road grit are an issue in much of AZ.

Paul

While what is typically considered road grit may not be a problem in AZ, a layer of dust on the road (which IS quite common in the desert) can be problematic as well. I spent a few months in West TX a few years ago and had one significant spill caused by a layer of dust on a dry road. I lost it in a turn, but I was going no faster than usual. I didn't spend enough time there to determine the effect of the dust/dirt on the drivetrain. I would also be wary of rushing out to test the conditions right after the start of a rain. Usually that's when traction is worst.

While what is typically considered road grit may not be a problem in AZ, a layer of dust on the road (which IS quite common in the desert) can be problematic as well. I spent a few months in West TX a few years ago and had one significant spill caused by a layer of dust on a dry road. I lost it in a turn, but I was going no faster than usual. I didn't spend enough time there to determine the effect of the dust/dirt on the drivetrain. I would also be wary of rushing out to test the conditions right after the start of a rain. Usually that's when traction is worst.

I understand that for almost all roads the first few minutes after a rain is the slickest due to oil/grime/dirt buildup being released, but not yet washed away.

My point was to get out in the rain immediately for the very purpose of learning how my bike handles in these worst conditions. My neighborhood has very little traffic and it would be OK for me to wreck. (In fact in dry conditions I've done the same, practiced emergecy manuevers, controled endos, etc. so I became more familiar with my bike)

I rely on by bike to commute. In this season a storm/rain could come up half way home. Having the controlled experience in rain will let me be prepared for when in matters.

Al

Thank you that was helpful. You are right, the stock build does not come with pedals (maybe thats what the LBS meant by they built it up ;) ) I'll put double sided SPD pedals on it (right now I use 520's, so either those or a better model)

How do you like the bar end shifters for commuting? I've never used any other shifters than the kind with two levers under my thumb with my flat MTB handlebars and down tube shifers on my very old road-bike.

I too wonder about the wheels, but really don't have any knowledge or experience on what the practial strength difference is (I weigh 200 lbs & only carry 10lb or less bag) I will ride non-tech off road.

I do prefer a less upright position, like a road bike.

How much did you pay at the LBS? I see they go for around $800-900 on-line before shipping cost. If I buy at LBS (which I much prefer for fitting, service and supporting local) I expect some mark-up, etc. but want to gauge what is reasonable.

Al

My stock cross check was $750 at the LBS last fall. I think that was $100 mark-off from the list price. Then I added pedals, a rack, saddlebags, reflectors, front and rear lights, and fenders. It might be tought to do all the add-ons under $1K, but you might be able to, especially if you use a messenger back instead of the rack and saddlebags. I haven't had any problems with the bar-end shifters. You'll get used to them. It shouldn't have any problems with 210 lbs.

When I am riding through town in the wet, I feather the brakes to clean the rims, then try to keep the rims dry with a light touch of brakes. There is something really spooky about making an emergency brake and having no stopping power for 2 revs of the wheel. Its a really good ideas to practice if this has never happened to you.

My stock cross check was $750 at the LBS last fall. I think that was $100 mark-off from the list price. Then I added pedals, a rack, saddlebags, reflectors, front and rear lights, and fenders. It might be tought to do all the add-ons under $1K, but you might be able to, especially if you use a messenger back instead of the rack and saddlebags. I haven't had any problems with the bar-end shifters. You'll get used to them. It shouldn't have any problems with 210 lbs.

Thanks - the cross check is the bike I want based on paper only evaluation. But once I get seriously into looking into options and actually trying them out, I'll see. Unfortunately there is no LBS around here that has the cross check in stock - 10day delivery time. I will be very surprised if they will quote less than $900+pedals. I already have all the accessories I need, so its the stock bike cost only I care about.

Al

I ride in rain often and have been caught in heavy rain on a fenderless bike. If you get up to any speed on a road bike, you will have to lean to one side or the other to avoid spraying that road dirt & grit up into your face. There was also the dark stripe of up the back of my jersey that was hard to wash out. Don

I'm not sugesting that my choice is necessarily best for you, but I have been pleased with the Trek 520. It is a much faster ride than a MTB, and can accomodate heavy loads, if you need to stop for groceries on the way home from work. Of course you could go much lighter and quicker, if you never will have to transport more than yourself and a small kit.

a cross check with mavic city wheels. then use a single cog up front (at least a 44) and a cheap rear derailer. i would try to get an 11-32 rear cassette and just slap a mtb derailer onto the end of the drops. it will be versitile and look cheap, but you might find it an inconvenient place for a shifter. just get good cheap RELIABLE stuff. the bike may wiegh 25 lbs.. but that aint that bad to pedal. and get some cheap clipess pedals.
and remeber to get a frame saver treatment.

pricepoint.com has alot of reduced price bike crap.

Noisebeam, I've put a little under 2k miles on my stock build cross check in about 4 months and have been very happy with it. I'm about 6'3" on a 58cm frame and wanted a slightly higher position so I switched stems too, but the bars are still probably 4" below the seat. I also switched out the seat for a Brooks and got a set of 700c 25 tires for smooth road commuting. The stock Alex rims are rated for 23-32 tires. I weigh 215# and have taken the bike through some rocky mtb trails and the 32 spoke rear has held up with no problems. I had kind of wished I checked into 105 components, but the tiagra has worked fine. I bought mine stock cause I wanted to start riding that week ;) Fenders are very nice for rain or wet roads, but where you live it doesn't sound like a big deal. The double chainring is fine for me, but if you had big hills or envisioned loading it down for touring you might want to consider a triple upgrade. I paid $900 at the LBS and am still very happy with the bike, very verisatle and some style too. I picked it over the Lamond Propad and Jake the Snake.

oh. airbomb.com is selling some momovello crosschecks for like $800. they're commuter specific in the plainess of their looks.

Just curious, if one commutes where a shower and a change of clothes are available before (and after) work and your bag is waterproof, are fenders still a good idea?


Personal preference, I guess. I haven't been bothered too much by riding in the rain without fenders. I expect to get nasty sweaty anyway, and the rain is refreshing in comparison. A rack in back and thick aluminum frame tube up front block a lot of it.. I also have to slow down in the rain anyway since I wear glasses, which get harder to see through as they collect raindrops. Hilo streets are pretty clean, too, since nature provides multiple daily washings.

bkr

Personal preference, I guess. I haven't been bothered too much by riding in the rain without fenders. I expect to get nasty sweaty anyway, and the rain is refreshing in comparison. A rack in back and thick aluminum frame tube up front block a lot of it.. I also have to slow down in the rain anyway since I wear glasses, which get harder to see through as they collect raindrops. Hilo streets are pretty clean, too, since nature provides multiple daily washings.

bkr

I ride my Cross Check 16 miles to work and 16 mile home each day. My rear rack keeps most of the crud off of my back. I slow down for the puddles mainly because I can't see if there is debris under the water and don't like flats anytime and certainly not when it is raining.

I changed the front fork and ahead set to pull the bars up and back so that my neck won't hurt so much on longer rides. I use 25 cm tires. It came with 35 cm cross tires. The bike is basically stock.

I have seen them run as high as $1,200 new. On eBay they usually sell for around $535 if you can find one in your size. I live in Chicago. There are 30 or so good LBS's here. Not one of them has a Cross Check in stock. They all order them.

Tom O.

I just went to LBS. They quoted $1500 for a 2004 stock cross check. They said the 2004 model is built up better (105 components, etc.) vs. the 2003. Is anyone familiar with the 2004 vs. 2003 stock cross check?

Al

Just to make the decision tougher, I'd throw the Trek 520 into the mix. It seems like there's Trek dealers everywhere so might be one local for you, esp since you already have one. I use my '02 520 as a commuter with panniers on the stock rack (which people complain about but has been working fine for me), fenders (wet here in the Pacific NW), lights and computer. I covered it with bumper stickers to hopefully make it less attractive when it's locked up outside my office.
Your original post said "fast" was a criteria, and this 520 seems pretty fast to me. I rarely use the largest ring on the front (52) but I can ususally keep up with traffic when I need to on the middle ring. A stronger rider than me could really move on this bike. I did get a longer stem and a second set of brake levers so I could ride more upright in traffic. It feels super stable and strong, although I try to minimize the curb hopping. :) And its an American bike too.

It sound like they may not be familiar with the 2003 specs or that they are trying hard to justify an arbitrary price increase.

The specs for 2003 are available on the internet archive they show the pages from early 2003 when the model being offered was the Green Bean and if you look around you can find the Red bike specs too.

http://www.waybackmachine.org/ is a great source for comparing changes in a site.

I do not see a whole lot of difference outside of the color changes.

tom o.

I am certain that the 2004 stock build model is the same as the 2003 based on the "Surly2004.pdf" catalog I have seen. I have no idea what is going on at the LBS.

I came in asking what cross bikes they had in stock. None, but they suggested I get a cannondale T800 as it would be "better for dirt roads and commuting."

I did ask if they could order a stock build Surly, sure they said and brought out the Surly parent company catelog (UCI or something like that) and sure enough the red stock build was pictured and the standard specs I am familiar with listed. I asked how much it would be, they said they could get it in 3-4 days and went to the back room, came out and said $1799. I said they must be a mistake as I am sure the cost is quite a bit lower. They went back to the back and came out with $1499. I said I expect and understand that the price will be higher than I see on-line (which I then told them was $800-900) but I didn't expect such a large difference. They then explained that the stock build in the catelog was the 2003 model and that the 2004 model is much better with 105 components, better headset, better seat post, etc. I asked if I could see what exact components they were and I didn't get a clear answer.

So I walked away disapointed, I would be willing to pay quite a markup for local service, but I wasn't getting a good feeling. On the way to a different LBS I went to a different branch of the same LBS and explained that I didn't want to waste their time as I already asked the other store about ordering a stock cross check. They no problem and looked it up and said that it was $1300-1400 and also said it comes with 105 components. Hmmm..

So I guess this particular store must have some 'standard' build with 105 components recommended in a pricing catelog (that was what the both the first and second store were looking at and I assume it was a pricing catelog as they were very careful to make sure I didn't see it)

Anyway the 3 other LBS I visited didn't have any cross bikes, nor could they order any (canondale, lemond, bianchi, kona, etc.). Two of the three pushed me hard to get a Trek1500 road bike on sale to clear out for the 2005s. I think I may unforunately need to to my shopping on line.

Al

I am certain that the 2004 stock build model is the same as the 2003 based on the "Surly2004.pdf" catalog I have seen. I have no idea what is going on at the LBS. . . .

I did ask if they could order a stock build Surly, sure they said and brought out the Surly parent company catelog (UCI or something like that) and sure enough the red stock build was pictured and the standard specs I am familiar with listed. I asked how much it would be, they said they could get it in 3-4 days and went to the back room, came out and said $1799. I said they must be a mistake as I am sure the cost is quite a bit lower. They went back to the back and came out with $1499. I said I expect and understand that the price will be higher than I see on-line (which I then told them was $800-900) but I didn't expect such a large difference. They then explained that the stock build in the catelog was the 2003 model and that the 2004 model is much better with 105 components, better headset, better seat post, etc. I asked if I could see what exact components they were and I didn't get a clear answer. . . .
Al

ATTENTION LBS OWNERS!!! What's the scoop? Are the LBS' cited by the posters jacking up the prices? Or has there been a manufactuter price increase on the Surlys? If the price has gone up, why? The prices they cite are twice what I paid for a stock build last fall.

I love my Cross Check, but I don't think it's worth $1500 stock built. I wonder if your LBS' are greedy or if there was a price increase. If this hasn't turned you off of Surlys, look at the new Surly Long Haul Trucker. That might actually make a better commuter than the Cross Check. Sometimes I wish my Cross Check were just a little bit longer. I have to push saddlebags to the back of the rack to avoid heel strike.

The price of steel has gone up a lot but that is an awfully large price increase. You don't see Detroit doubling their prices.

tom o.

I have the heal vs. pannier issue also. The Long Haul does look like a good alternative. The reason I went with the Cross Check instead of one of the "Commuter" bikes is that I wanted one beast that would carry me on long weekend rides, the occasional friendly race, and get me to work.

tom o.

It sounds like your LBS is quoting you the price for the Cross-Check "Virtual Bike" that is listed on Surly's web site, and is different from the "Cross-Check Complete":

Compare this:

http://www.surlybikes.com/virtual_CrossCheck.html (105 components, Cane Creek headset, etc...)

to this:

http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes.html

From their web site:

"What is a virtual bike? It’s a Surly frameset paired with some parts that have been assembled by our U.S. distributor. Aside from our Cross-Check Complete bike, Surly does not actually sell completely built up bikes."

The Cross-Check Complete is still listed on their site with the same build as I paid a bit less than $1k for last year -- a mutt-mix of componentry, including Deore hubs, Tiagra shifters and derailleurs, Ritchey Comp headset, etc...

Since you said the LBS was looking in the distributor catalog, it sounds like they were referencing these "virtual bike" packages, which QBS puts together, rather than the stock Cross-Check that Surly puts together.

Surly's got a dealer locator on their web site, too, if you need to find an LBS that's got their act together a little better.

Exactly.

I later went to yet a different LBS. I was very pleased. They were upfront and even let me look at the QBP catalog and showed both the stock build and what I just learned in called the Virtual Build (the catelog calls it the the "105 STI stock build". This LBS quoted $1350 for the '105 STI' and $950 for the standard stock build. I was so pleased with how straight forward they were and also very helpful & friendly. I will gladly pay $950/$1350 to do business with them - the extra $100 or so over online prices is well worth the fitting (stem, seatpost, cranks, etc.) that they (and most good LBS) do they do at no extra charge.

The question remains how do I want to configure it? This is a bike I plan to use forever, both for commuting, but also lots of 4WD trail riding (rougher than dirt roads, but not technical like rocky single tracks) on weekends. I am willing to pay for the upgraded groups, but need to put thought into where to put the money (i.e. not neccessarily the exact 105 'virtual' configuration) but also what other cross bikes compare at $1350 (at $950 none really did)

(I do wonder why the other LBS did not know about the standard stock build and were so vague about the '105 STI' build - expecially why they priced it at $1800 before I questioned that. The annoying part is this was the LBS I have done all my accessory shopping at and this other nice new LBS is 10mi away.)

Al

man. i've been thinking about this. if you don't want to use panniers you might want to consider the soma rush and sulry steam roller. have a good wheel built around a sram 7 speed hub, put a mavic speed city wheel up front, get the proper sized crank set, use a good bottom bracket and headset, and.. that's about it.. build the rest as you like. drops will help on the speed.

if you need to use panniers get a soma double cross or that surly crosscheck.

and get a frame saver treatment.

The question remains how do I want to configure it? This is a bike I plan to use forever, both for commuting, but also lots of 4WD trail riding (rougher than dirt roads, but not technical like rocky single tracks) on weekends. I am willing to pay for the upgraded groups, but need to put thought into where to put the money (i.e. not neccessarily the exact 105 'virtual' configuration) but also what other cross bikes compare at $1350 (at $950 none really did)

(I do wonder why the other LBS did not know about the standard stock build and were so vague about the '105 STI' build - expecially why they priced it at $1800 before I questioned that. The annoying part is this was the LBS I have done all my accessory shopping at and this other nice new LBS is 10mi away.)

Al

Sounds like you found an honest, competent LBS. You might want to invest in two sets of wheels--one with slick 25's or 28's for commuting, one with knobby 32's or 35's for off road. (Personally, I prefer slick 28's for fair-weather commuting.) Yeah, it's expensive, but it beats riding down the road on knobbies or taking a curvy, hilly dirt path with "narrow" slicks. It also beats switching off tires twice a week.

I can't compare the value to the 105 upgrade because I know squat about the 105 upgrade, but it's a thought.

If your going to pay that type of money for a Surly Cross Check, take a gander at a Gunnar Crosshairs, 853 tubing. But this still set you back about 1500.00.

You will probably make some upgrades along the way which bike you end up with. Things wear out, break, get replaced by lighter/sexier parts... The upgrade package is probably worth the extra money.

Either way I hope you enjoy it.

tom o.

The other options offered in the rest of the replies are all good choices but try not to let so many options paralyze you into inaction.

I just went to LBS. They quoted $1500 for a 2004 stock cross check. They said the 2004 model is built up better (105 components, etc.) vs. the 2003. Is anyone familiar with the 2004 vs. 2003 stock cross check?

Al

Man...... If anyone pays $1,500.00 hundred for a stock Surly Cross Check they get the Bike Forums "Sucker of the month" award. ;-)

I think the option for keeping two sets of wheels is what many people are doing. I wanted a Surly Crosscheck but purchased a Bianchi Volpe because the bike shop was giving me a discount (I was buying two bikes). The Volpe also had a triple and it was in my favorite color. Blue

What I like about the Crosscheck is the low level chromoly frame. I would avoid Ebay because the Crosscheck bikes are going for practically retail or MORE! In my opinion, the only thing I would have the bike shop add is the triple chainring. The Crosscheck is a heavier bike and you need that lower gear.

Just to make the decision tougher, I'd throw the Trek 520 into the mix. It seems like there's Trek dealers everywhere so might be one local for you, esp since you already have one. I use my '02 520 as a commuter with panniers on the stock rack (which people complain about but has been working fine for me), fenders (wet here in the Pacific NW), lights and computer. I covered it with bumper stickers to hopefully make it less attractive when it's locked up outside my office.
Your original post said "fast" was a criteria, and this 520 seems pretty fast to me. I rarely use the largest ring on the front (52) but I can ususally keep up with traffic when I need to on the middle ring. A stronger rider than me could really move on this bike. I did get a longer stem and a second set of brake levers so I could ride more upright in traffic. It feels super stable and strong, although I try to minimize the curb hopping. :) And its an American bike too.

The Trek 520 is only 26 pounds according to their website. This really came as a surprise to me because I thought the bike was closer to 30! I really want this bike and will look for closeouts in November but there are too many bikes in my stable at the moment. The 520 has that looong wheelbase and chromoly frame that I really love but the stem has got to go! It seems like everyone who buy this bike changes the stem for a longer one and you would figure Trek would have corrected this deficiency by now. Another thing I don't like is the color. Be honest. The Trek 520 probably has the ugliest color scheme of all the current touring bikes in production. Rivendell puts this bike to shame!

Having said that. I still want one!

I think the poster should still get the Crosscheck only becuase he's looking for a multipurpose bike and not just a touring/commuter.

Just to make the decision tougher, I'd throw the Trek 520 into the mix. It seems like there's Trek dealers everywhere so might be one local for you, esp since you already have one. I use my '02 520 as a commuter with panniers on the stock rack (which people complain about but has been working fine for me), fenders (wet here in the Pacific NW), lights and computer. I covered it with bumper stickers to hopefully make it less attractive when it's locked up outside my office.
Your original post said "fast" was a criteria, and this 520 seems pretty fast to me. I rarely use the largest ring on the front (52) but I can ususally keep up with traffic when I need to on the middle ring. A stronger rider than me could really move on this bike. I did get a longer stem and a second set of brake levers so I could ride more upright in traffic. It feels super stable and strong, although I try to minimize the curb hopping. :) And its an American bike too.


I'd get another trek, but I'm not comfortable with the only dealer on my island. It's also a bit much.