Bicycle Mechanics - Cassette replacement Ultegra/DuraAce/Sram?

I want to change from a 12-25 to a 12-27 9spd cassette. Currently I have 9 spd dura-ace cassette and chain. The chain/Cassette only has 900 miles on it, so I don't think I need a new one yet. Anyway, in looking at the prices for new cassettes, there is a good $50 difference between the ultegra 9-sp and the dura-ace 9-sp. What do you get for the $50, weight savings? If that's it, can I put the ultegra on and not have to re-adjust my der? or should I go with the DA.
[edited to add...SRAM is also cheaper than the DA, is that compatible also, or not?]

Also, I rate my mechanical skill at 2 on a scale from 1-5, with 5 being wiz, and 1 being totally inept. Is this a job I should leave to the LBS, or should I just get the tool and do it myself?

You can put on the ultegra or any other cassette with no adjustment really, dura ace ultegra have some slight differences. Its pretty easy to do yourself if you have the right tools. But if you dont plan on swapping too often the labor is probably cheaper than then the tools needed.

Get the tools. The experience alone is worth it, as is knowing that you can rely on yourself for such things

I just switched my DA to SRAM, never been happier. Be sure to get the SRAM chain at the same time.

The DA cassette has some Ti cogs (4 upper cogs). Also, the 12-27 is of a slightly different design than the other cassettes since it uses a special spider carrier to accomodate the larger cogs. What you might want to consider doing to save some money is to convert your existing 12-25 to a 12-27. You'll need to purchase the 21*24*27 cluster seperately. I know Branford (http://www.branfordbike.com/) sells loose cogs and clusters. I suspect others do too. However, I wish you luck. it seems everyone's being effected by the "Shimano shortage". I've been trying to get a replacement 12-27 for months now and no one seems to have them in stock. I suspect the availability of the upper-carrier will also be of the same story. The breakout for Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed cassettes looks like this:


Cassette Breakout
----------------------------------------------
11-21 11*12*13-14-15-(16*17)-{19*21**
11-23 11*12*13-14-15-(17*19)-{21*23**
12-21 12*13-14-15-(16*17)-{18*19*21**
12-23 12*13-14-15-(16*17)-{19*21*23**
12-25 12*13-14-15-(17*19)-{21*23*25**
12-27 12*13-14-15-(17*19)-{21*24*27**


* = attached spacer

- = loose spacer

() = subcogset cluster rivetted together onto
their own carrier; adds rigidity

{** = subcogset cluster rivetted together onto
their own carrier; adds rigidity and
contains titanium cogs

it seems everyone's being effected by the "Shimano shortage". I've been trying to get a replacement 12-27 for months now and no one seems to have them in stock.

2 weeks ago my LBS called me and said he got 6 12-27 Ultegra cassettes in. This was at 10:00am and I told him to hold one for me. When I showed up at 2pm, he had 1 left.

They are starting to show up, but the backlog is keeping them scarce still.

My LBS just got it a Dura-Ace 12-27 for me. They are scarce but they are available.

Personaly I like the Shimanos. They shift silky smooth and the cogs are very stiff.

-Okay, now I'm getting upset. The specs on the Felt site state that the F30 has a 12-25 DA. It turns out the cassette on my bike was a 12-23. I'm not sure what level the components on the bike were, but -I'm thinking when the LBS built the bike, they might have done a switcheroo. The parts on the cassette -were a 12*, 13, 14, 15 & a group [16,17,19,21,23]. How can I find out what level components these are. On the lockring cap, it says CS-HG70-9. I thought that was the 105 group! Anyway, my LBS had both a 12-25 and a 12-27. Should I go for the 25 or the 27?

The 25 goes 12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25. vs same with 24,27? tough call. My heavy touring bike with a 26 seems to do fine, so I'm inclined to go with the 25. Thoughts?

I'm kind of miffed because I was going to sell my old cassette, but since I don't know what kind it is, I don't know how to price it. :mad:

Thanks for the help.

Attached is a pic of the old cassette.

Shimano likes it complex. They call their "105" level cassette "HG-70".

If you look closely at the 5-gear cluster you have, you will find 3 tiny 2-mm Allen bolts that you can remove to further dismantle the cassette. That would allow you to swap individual cogs with other individual ones from your LBS (if they sell them).

See http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html for a complete analysis. Sheldon Brown also sells individual cogs, BTW, although if you look for more than 2-3 cogs, it's cheaper to buy a new cassette.

Swapping individual cogs also serves another purpose: you may design a cassette to your own spec. For instance, I like close ratios, but I also like very low climbing gears, especially when I am loaded with 2 kids and touring gear. Shimano offers 12-23 and 12-25 at one end, but also 11-13-15-17-20-24-28-32. While I like its low end, I don't need a 11 or 12 and find the 2-teeth gap at the top a bit too much. So I disassembled both cassettes and got:
12-14-15-16-17-19-21-25-32

As to what you need, try to find out how many lower gears you need.

I saw you comment so maybe you can help with this advice for me?


As to whatCould you kindly help with some advice (before I try and buy something)?

I am currently doing some serious bike riding on weekends. I have an 11 year old Giant Aluminium frame bike (Cadex ALR-1). The componentry is Shimano 105. The cluster is I think a 23-13 which is next to useless on hills.

As the bike is an 8 speed, I was told better stick to an 8 speed rather than a 9 speed as I may have problems adjusting derailleur etc (I assume this is correct)

Anyway, I am thinking of buying Shimano 105 Deore LX (CS-HG70) with cogs 11-30. But somebody told me having the cogs sizes that far apart will make the gear changes "clunky". Is that true?

Also, if I have not changed a cluster previously, is it something I can do without experience? What tool do I need?

Anyway, I am thinking of buying Shimano 105 Deore LX (CS-HG70) with cogs 11-30. But somebody told me having the cogs sizes that far apart will make the gear changes "clunky". Is that true?

You might need to check your derailleur capacity. What rear derailleur do you have on the bike? My guess is that it's a short caged road derailleur and won't adequately accept any rear cog larger than a 27. You may be able to push to a 28 if you are diligent about avoiding the big-big combo. As for the changes being clunky, it's true that you may notice that as the jumps in the number of teeths in the larger cogs can be significant. For instance, on my 12-27, the largest three cogs jump three teeth increments (21-24-27) which make for fine tuning your cadence in those gears difficult. However, the times I really use those gears is on steep hills and so I'm more concerned about other things.



Also, if I have not changed a cluster previously, is it something I can do without experience? What tool do I need?

Your best resource can be found on Park Tool's website (http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml). Basically you'll need the appropriate freewheel or cassette removal tool combined with a proper wrench and a chain whip. The chain whip usually runs anywhere between $10-$15 and the freewheel/cassette removal tool is around $5-$8. It's pretty easy to do.

I've heard of the Shimano shortage, but just received my 12/27 ultegra for the new cycle cross/Audax bike I'm putting together. The only issue was getting a decent price. I can't see why I'd want anything better made. The tools needed to switch out a cassette are cheap.

I would have gone to SRAM, but they don't make a 12/27. For the N Georgia mountains I plan to switch to a 12/32 as I like to spin, especially on those long climbs.

I'm using an XT long cage rear deraileur to handle the long chain required. Yes, it will work with STI.

Al

i have a 12/25 on mine right now. next weekend, i'm doing the mount hood challenge, which is 100k (or 100 miles) of pure climbing hell.... so i'm borrowing a friend's 12/27, just in case. i feel like a wimp :)

-mrBallistic

You might need to check your derailleur capacity. What rear derailleur do you have on the bike? My guess is that it's a short caged road derailleur and won't adequately accept any rear cog larger than a 27. You may be able to push to a 28 if you are diligent about avoiding the big-big combo. . Cage length has NOTHING to do with large cog capacity,and nothing to do with the BIG/Big combo,which you shouldn't do anyway. The capacity spec for shimano 9 speed road long and short caages is 27 teeth,and both will handle a 30 and sometimes a 32. His 8 speed will do a 30 with no problem. Rather than looking at a 11/30 he would do bettr to consider a 12 or 13x 30.