Classic & Vintage - Making Powder Coat Shine

I got a metallic powdercoat without clear coat on a frame so I can do some lug work. Would spray can clear coat be fine or must I get a clear powdercoat over the metallic? If rattle can is okay, is there a specific type that I need to use so that the powder coat is safe?

Thanks

A good automotive grade clear will look, and last, so much better than the rattlecan variety.
-Gene-

I'm not sure if one reacts better over powdercoat or not, but I have used 2 different options from a rattle can. Clear enamel and clear lacquer. Clear enamel is a bit more finicky (in my experience) to apply nicely, but will shine when dry. Lacquer is a bit easier to work with (in my opinion), but will be dull when it dries. You will need to polish it with rubbing compound and progressively-lighter grades of polish until you get the shine you want. I never had any luck with polishing enamel. It's a lot more work, but I think the result is superior with lacquer.

Edit: In my examples, both types were intended for automotive applications, for whatever that's worth.

I read in the archives that spray paint for plastics would work best but I'm not sure if rattle can clear coat is as brittle as rattle can paint.

Would this work?:http://www.createforless.com/Chase+Color-Spray+Finish+Clear+Coat+10.5+oz/pid5471.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse

I read in the archives that spray paint for plastics would work best but I'm not sure if rattle can clear coat is as brittle as rattle can paint.

Would this work?:http://www.createforless.com/Chase+Color-Spray+Finish+Clear+Coat+10.5+oz/pid5471.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse

See disclaimer at bottom... I clear coated BOTH the projects I'm currentlyworking on with Spray automotive clearcoat. You can get Big cans that are for Truck and SUV's for about $8 and that should put on 2-3 coats. Go LIGHT on the first app but cover all the angles. Then you can get progressively "wetter" as you apply more coats. Watch for Runs on heavier coats. LONG sweeping strokes on main tubes, short sweeping blasts in the corners/lugs. The beauty is you can recoat in 10-15 minutes. As many angles and places on a frame to cover, abou the time you finish on one end, you can go right back on the next coat. WATCH THE Rel Humidity!!!! Spray in the afternoon when the air is dry. Cool mornings will make for a "milky" finish because water gets trapped in the spray and condenses as the solvent evaps. There is ALSO a product for use on WHEELS that is also in the auto clear section of the NAPA/AutoZone... It is similar, but with More body. (Go look at a car's modern painted Alloy wheels). This stuff is more chip resistant and has a higher/faster build. I used this in combo with the above but only on the chain stays and front forks as these are "high abuse" areas. I wanted as much clear protection as I could get on these places. All these were done over auto acrylic/laquer finsh tho'... I'm afraid i don't have any experience over powder coats

Great tips. I'll be trying this in the near future.

See disclaimer at bottom... I clear coated BOTH the projects I'm currentlyworking on with Spray automotive clearcoat. You can get Big cans that are for Truck and SUV's for about $8 and that should put on 2-3 coats. Go LIGHT on the first app but cover all the angles. Then you can get progressively "wetter" as you apply more coats. Watch for Runs on heavier coats. LONG sweeping strokes on main tubes, short sweeping blasts in the corners/lugs. The beauty is you can recoat in 10-15 minutes. As many angles and places on a frame to cover, abou the time you finish on one end, you can go right back on the next coat. WATCH THE Rel Humidity!!!! Spray in the afternoon when the air is dry. Cool mornings will make for a "milky" finish because water gets trapped in the spray and condenses as the solvent evaps. There is ALSO a product for use on WHEELS that is also in the auto clear section of the NAPA/AutoZone... It is similar, but with More body. (Go look at a car's modern painted Alloy wheels). This stuff is more chip resistant and has a higher/faster build. I used this in combo with the above but only on the chain stays and front forks as these are "high abuse" areas. I wanted as much clear protection as I could get on these places. All these were done over auto acrylic/laquer finsh tho'... I'm afraid i don't have any experience over powder coats

Is this for a rattle can job or the more difficult spray pump job?

Make sure to get one of those trigger handles that screw on the top of the can. Saves your wrist and avoids the occasional spatter that happens if you adjust your grip mid-spray.