Road Cycling - New to the world of Road Bikes [need help]

First, I just want to say hello.

Alright, I have been biking with a trek 700, for about a week now.The trek is really old and worn down, and alot of the bike is rusted. I ride with a friend of mine, and we average around 10-15 miles a day. I am really growing into the sport of road biking, and we are thinking of entering a race, just for fun. I live in Sarasota, FL. (If anyone lives around there and know of any races for amateur's, let me know please.) Now, my dad has said that if I show that I am interested in the sport, and work at it, and practice, he will help me out with a new road bike. I am thinking somewhere around the 500 dollar range. I would like a true road bike, and would like something that is comfortable, strong, and not to heavy. Now if the difference between a 500 dollar bike, and a 700-800 dollar bike is a big difference, then I could probably gather some more money and get the more expensive bike. Also any tips that could be offered, would be appreciated. Last, do you think clips are better than other types of pedal?

w00t Sarasota! I have family there and visit when I can, certainly Thanksgiving.

But to your questions... IF you're certain that you will be roadriding for years, then you'd be better off getting a bike with the Shimano 105 group. If your not certain, I'd just go with Shimano Sora. The group inbetween, Tiagra, I don't think is that much better than Sora and is no where near 105.

That said, you can get the Fuji Finest (steel model, not Aluminum) for under $500 (not sure what the current price is) or Fuji Roubaix for under $900 (I think). Besides the group (105 vs Sora), the Roubaix comes with a better wheel set, the frame is a better quality of steel.

While I prefer steel and think the Fuji's are a great value, you should certainly look around. Whichever bike you buy, make sure the shop gives you atleast a decent fitting (adjusting things to make it more comfortable).

As for pedals, I dislike baskets/clips very much. There are several clipless pedals on the market, just buy 'em (budget yourself about $150 for shoes and pedals) from the shop you buy the bike from -- hopefully they'll help you adjusting the pedals to you, like the tension on 'em -- and let them help you choose the pedal that's right for you, based on float, ease of exiting, knee problems if any, that sort of stuff.

And when find a cool route or two in the area, maybe drop me a PM someday so I'll know where to ride when I visit :)

I am thinking somewhere around the 500 dollar range. I would like a true road bike, and would like something that is comfortable, strong, and not to heavy. Now if the difference between a 500 dollar bike, and a 700-800 dollar bike is a big difference, then I could probably gather some more money and get the more expensive bike.

Your budget sounds really limited. It's difficult unfortunately to find much road bike for under a grand, and most entry level road bikes are well into the 500s. If you are really looking to race, even for fun, you may be disappointed by the limitations of a $500 bike. Easily bent wheels, skipping chains and poor shifting, etc. are symptoms of lower end parts. Not to discourage you, but rather to let you know what you are up against.

You can try softening up your dad some by bringing him to the bike store and showing him some price tags. Get a knowledgeable salesperson on your side and he can explain to pops why spending a few hundred more for a bike with an upgraded component group is really worthwhile. You can test ride the $500 bikes mentioned above and see what you think.

If I were in your position and raising money were going to be impractical, I would look at a used, 2-3 yr old road bike that originally carried a higher (>$1000) tag. This will take some work to get a bike that fits you well, has reasonably up-to-date (i.e replaceable) component groups, and is in good repair. But I really don't think bicycles hold their value well, which is good news for you. People like the squeaky-clean scratch-free new bikes, even though a well maintained used bike may offer nearly flawless service, so you should have lots of haggling room on a used bike.

I don't know your age or employment circumstances, but if you can save up over the next several months to match the $500 your dad can put up, you would be much happier with the bike. Plus, that will show your dad how serious you are about it - if you have the dedication to save up and match his "downpayment," I bet he would be more happy to help you out with whatever he can afford.

Yea I'd go used too. But I'd either go late 80s early 90s with downtube friction shifter and upgrade the wheels(if they are the old heavy, non-aero type rims or if the hubs have 7sprockets or less[$200-$500 for decent aero or climbing wheelsets] hubs/rims can be purchased seperatly if desired) and cassette(to match the new hub in the new wheels[$30-$50]) and if needed, replace/upgrade the rear derailer and bottom bracket(if wornout -unlikely but $30 ok-$100great). I would also aim between 2000 and '03 models with a 105 or higher group(most campagnolo groups are good too as they are usually an upgrade the owner did rather than stock parts) for the reasons that its parts are of good quality and design and most likely not worn out thus no major replacments or upgrades would be needed for raceing.

I'm a fairly good mechanic and work on/upgrade most of my own stuff though, which is why I would go with the older friction shift bikes for amature racing. The friction almost never wearout, cost $10 for new[unused] old stock(NOS) replacments, are the lightest type of shifter, and they drive the price of the bike way down(save a couple hundred give or take) because everyone wants the integrated shifters, most shifting quality comes from the cassette however and poor quality integrated shifters(sora) can actually be a hindrence. The main reason is price though and you do have to get a feel for finding gears quickly (not hard with a good cassette and a clean well adjusted friction lever).
Most cycle parts have been fairly standardised for the past 35 years so they can be replaced with an upgrade quite easily, with an occational few oddball inventions here and there and a couple of standard changes, the biggest change being freewheels[old] to freehubs[new] because the whole wheel must be replaced or rebuilt if you want to go from freewhell to freehub, freehubs use cassettes which greatly improves shifting over that of the old threaded freewheels. Bikes over 20 years old have quite heavy frames(no cut off, just older is heavier).

As long as you start with a good frame (straight, fairly light, good fit) and maintain the whole bike well, you can just upgrade a part each time you win some prize money untill you have a killer bike then buy a new frame-set, switch all those parts over and boda boom you got it made. Just like that offroad arena truck racing arcade game (you know the one, win a race get some money, choose to upgrade the engine, suspention, or wheels and how much[limited by cash])

Thank you for all of your replies. I have talked to my dad, and I think I can go to 700-800$. To clear up things, I am 16, and I had to quit my job so that I can get ready for wrestling season. Biking is one of the ways I was gonna use to get ready, but I find out that I really enjoy it.

Lord opie,
Where in Sarasota? I am off of clark and honore. So far I have find a decent 15 mileride, and a kinda boring 10. If you are willing to make a small trip, I have heard that to ride Casey Key in the morning is a good 15, mile ride. Once I work up to longer distances, I will let you know what I find.


I found out yesterday that my dad has a friend that works on bikes. He said his friend might have a used one that I could have. This guy also gets all the bieks from the police office, all the stolen ones that no one claims, or the ones they get on drug busts. I called him this morning, and he said that if he gets a road bike in, He would call me, and if it fit I could have it.

I would just stick with the Trek 700 for a few months, for a couple of reasons. The first being to see if you're really going to stick with the sport, a week of riding isn't really enough time to decide (Atleast it wouldn't be for me, if you're really sure of yourself though, that's cool). The second reason being, that you're going to want to save up as much money as possible, if you have any intention of racing, you won't get anywhere with $500 dollars.

My mom lives near-ish you and my sister lives near Bee Ridge and Tuttle -- where I stay when I visit. Casey Key... yeah, I figure I'd ride all the islands in the area next time. Just hope some old lady don't run me into the ocean.

That's awesome that you might get a bike for free. Good luck and keep us posted on that.

as for your building up distance, once your body starts becoming used to it, then the big factor is managing your food and fluids.

I live in Sarasota, too. If you're looking for a road bike, you should stop by BikesenJava (http://www.bikesenjava.com). I'm pretty new to cycling, and they took care of me. They also set up most of the big group rides around town.

I talked to the guy today and he said he has a nice looking Schwinn le tour. I do not know if it is good or not, but I will check it out friday. He also has a peugeot, no idea what kind. Are either of these bikes good?

stop complaining im riding on a rusted 80's fuji montrey. u can ride on anything so save up ur money and buy it when ur sure ur goin to stick or just get a free le tour that u can buy on ebay for 40 bucks

I talked to the guy today and he said he has a nice looking Schwinn le tour. I do not know if it is good or not, but I will check it out friday. He also has a peugeot, no idea what kind. Are either of these bikes good?
What years? the le tour has been made since 1974(like my '74 le tour :) ) and has changed a fair bit over the years. They are good road bikes for club rides and so on but were never quite in the racing class, my old one is 30 lbs with a lot of miles but still works quite smooth (well maintained; the newer ones are quite a bit lighter).
I've heard good stuff about peugeot but no experiance with 'em.

Get serial numbers and look up the year on the web.

If they're free, don't bother researching 'em. Go ride each for a few minutes, choose one, thank the guy, and take your new ride home :) Save up your money until you can afford at least Shimano 105 or Campy Veloce group.

Keep us posted on how much fun you're having.

Alright, Thanks for all of the responses. I will keep you guys posted.

Yo shmanz, and elyjam.

I'm from Sarasota and would be more than happy to help you guys out. I help out at University Bikes (up on University and Honore).

Shmanz they've got a lot of bikes in your price range and a great group of guys. Call Steve, or Eric or Walter at 359-1515. They carry Fuji and Bianchi and K2's. The Bianchi's are probably out of your price range, but the Fuji's are GREAT entry level bikes.

Send me a PM and I'll give you more information than you could've ever wanted.

L8R