"The 33"-Road Bike Racing - Pick my next frame based on geometry

I am looking for a good race frame. To keep it objective, I have replaced the frame makers with numbers. I'm 5'4, short legs, and I weigh 155 or so. All frames are alloy and would have a full carbon fork. This will primarily be a crit frame. Prices range from $99 to ofer $1500 just to keep it fun. Here is the chart:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/robncircus/size.jpg

Let the voting begin

From what you have up there, number 5. Short wheelbase and higher BB drop. Pedal through corners better and it should handle more 'twitchy-ly'.

BUT!

Why don't you just buy a custom Tsunami Al frame if geometry is so important?

It'll cost less than the $1500.

Why don't you just buy a custom Tsunami Al frame if geometry is so important?

It'll cost less than the $1500.

Friggin... BB30, super long top tubes + short head tubes stock.

Damn you.

cdr

Oh. I vote 2, based on the head tube angle, TT length (guessing that 52-53 would be good).

don't you know the geometry doesn't matter? The important part is the decal the Taiwanese factory puts on the frame.

three

Friggin... BB30, super long top tubes + short head tubes stock.

Damn you.

cdr

Oh. I vote 2, based on the head tube angle, TT length (guessing that 52-53 would be good).

Haha.

Sorry man.

Thanks for the votes. FWIW, I ride #3 now. I am leaning towards a smaller head tube and shorter wheelbase to try and increase my drop a little. Currently with a -17 110mm stem I only get about 2.5 inches or so. Just thought it would be an interesting post.

I'll reveal the identities in a few days :thumb:

hey thats a good idea for choosing a bike, rather than just the names.

You really need to know what it is you are after based on what you ride now and what you are chasing, the best bike will be more than just the geo numbers. You need to know build of the frames too and the way it will handle, having a tight and overly stiff rear triangle might feel horrible if the front end has too much flex and vice versa.

but a refreshing change from shold I get the **** or the ****?


fwiw, I like a more compact lower frame with a longer top tube, more post sticking out and long stem with deeper bars. It ends up with a shorter headtube too. (but a compact frame meaning smaller, not a sloping top tube frame)

Thanks for the votes. FWIW, I ride #3 now. I am leaning towards a smaller head tube and shorter wheelbase to try and increase my drop a little. Currently with a -17 110mm stem I only get about 2.5 inches or so. Just thought it would be an interesting post.

I'll reveal the identities in a few days :thumb:

More drop doesn't have to mean that you'll go faster. It might hurt you more than it helps.

I voted for #4 based on the short head tube length so you can get the bars down low enough. With short legs it can be a challenge to get a flat back in the drops while sprinting.

3mm of BB drop isn't going to be noticed anyway.

More drop doesn't have to mean that you'll go faster. It might hurt you more than it helps.

Oh I know. I'm slow either way. However, I have the flexibility for it so why not.

Rob

Thanks to everyone for your thoughts. FWIW, here are the bikes:

#1 Van Dessel Hella Faster
#2 Spooky Skeletor
#3 Current TCR
#4 Performance Frame ($99)
#5 Cannondale CAAD 9

Interesting that the cheapest frame won based on geo. :innocent:

Cheers

Rob

I knew I was a caad9 shill at heart.

"race what you can replace"