Bicycle Mechanics - What kind of grease do you guys use for BBs/cranks/pedals/etc?

Just wondering what kind of grease you guys use for lubing parts up. I saw some Honey Bee wax stuff or something like that. Will any type of grease work?

TIA

Marine bearing grease. $3 a can at Home Depot - same stuff as Park Tool grease or even Phil Wood (Phil's is $8 a tube)

Synthetic grease for sure.
I prefer Wrench Forch Synthetic Grease for several reasons.
It's white - you can tell when it's dirty.
It's thick - packs bearings nicely.

Alot of other greases are green or brown. White is the way to go.

Synthetic grease for sure.
I prefer Wrench Forch Synthetic Grease for several reasons.
It's white - you can tell when it's dirty.
It's thick - packs bearings nicely.

Alot of other greases are green or brown. White is the way to go.I don't know about that i've used Pedro's grease that was this sick yellowish white and it didn't work half as nice as the Park stuff.

Some greases definitely break down a lot quicker than other greases. This, of course, is not an issue if you are anal about changing your grease out and keeping everything really clean. But, if you use your stuff for a long time, you want grease that isn't as likely to run thin quickly, then possibly get washed out with water.

I use Tri-Flow or One-Lube for anything I can't get my hands on (cartrige bearings) and I use Park grease for everything else. The Tri-Flow is nice because it is Teflon based so it is as thin as oil, but much more durable.

we use phil wood's grease at my shop. i can't understand why, as it's so expensive, and there are other things we could be spending our money on. i prefer the big tub of the park polylube. i always end up using too much if i have to squeeze it out of the tube. i think the phil wood's is somehow thinner than the park grease, and for that, i don't like it...plus it smells like ass. we also use the phils tenacious oil for chains, brake cables, freewheels, canti/V-brake posts, the little nub where the springs for caliper brakes go...i'm not sold on it as a chain lube though, i just got a bottle of tri-flow at my work station, so i think i'll start using that instead. the tenacious oil also works well for those stupid little rubber seals on cheaper hubs...they squeak sometimes and it's the most annoying little squeak.

i use polylube and pro-link at home on my own bikes. i kind of want something thicker for overhauling my hubs though...any suggestions (aside from phil's)?

we use phil wood's grease at my shop. i can't understand why, as it's so expensive, and there are other things we could be spending our money on. i prefer the big tub of the park polylube. i always end up using too much if i have to squeeze it out of the tube. i think the phil wood's is somehow thinner than the park grease, and for that, i don't like it...plus it smells like ass. we also use the phils tenacious oil for chains, brake cables, freewheels, canti/V-brake posts, the little nub where the springs for caliper brakes go...i'm not sold on it as a chain lube though, i just got a bottle of tri-flow at my work station, so i think i'll start using that instead. the tenacious oil also works well for those stupid little rubber seals on cheaper hubs...they squeak sometimes and it's the most annoying little squeak.

i use polylube and pro-link at home on my own bikes. i kind of want something thicker for overhauling my hubs though...any suggestions (aside from phil's)?
I don't understand why you would want something thicker than the polylube as all the products mentioned are of approximately the same viscosity. I've rebuilt my share of hubs using both the marine grease and Phil's and aside from possibly being able to meter the grease a bit easier out of the can I can't say I've seen a tremendous difference.

every time i've repacked a hub with the phils, the hubs always end up feeling...well, un-greased, even if i really cram it in there. like, seat the bearings in grease, then slather another helping on over them, then coat the cones with grease before i put it all back together. it just doesn't seem like the grease is thick enough...maybe i just suck at repacking hubs, but i've done a lot of them...other people don't seem to complain, so maybe i'm just being hyper critical...

every time I've repacked a hub with the Phil's, the hubs always end up feeling...well, un-greased, even if i really cram it in there. like, seat the bearings in grease, then slather another helping on over them, then coat the cones with grease before i put it all back together. it just doesn't seem like the grease is thick enough...maybe i just suck at repacking hubs, but I've done a lot of them...other people don't seem to complain, so maybe I'm just being hyper critical...
Perhaps, but I always look at it this way: I'd rather use too much grease and have some leak out the side than not get enough in to begin with. I can always reclaim the stuff that oozes out initially.

yeah, totally...when i say "add another coat," i pretty much mean just squeeze some out of the tube straight onto the cone all the way around...and i pretty much do the same thing on top of the bearings, after they're already seated pretty securely in grease, so i think i've got enough in there. ;)

i was just curious if anyone had some SUPER great grease that no one's ever heard of...i was thinking about trying out some of that rock 'n' roll grease...

this place has all kinds of grease! (http://www.mtbstore.com/mountain-bike-maintenance/greases.php) and reasonable prices at that...maybe i'll go on a grease-buying, hub overhauling bonanza!!

I've heard that Woodman was supposed to be good, but its on backorder

Finish Line Teflon grease every time :) .

Marine bearing grease. $3 a can at Home Depot - same stuff as Park Tool grease or even Phil Wood (Phil's is $8 a tube)

Actually bought some marine grease the other day
was thinking to myself it resist water better than most
and usally it sutied for higher RPMs so why wouldnt it work better for bikes that are out doors

then I read this post and see I made a good choice :)

Ok cool. I bought some of the green tubed Phil Wood stuff for $5 to try from my LBS.

Ok cool. I bought some of the green tubed Phil Wood stuff for $5 to try from my LBS.
Next lube, try the Park or a Marine grease. The Park Polylube comes in a 16oz. tub for $6 vs. the $5 you spend on a 4oz. tube.

I have to agree with the person above who wasn't to thrilled with the Phil Wood grease. I bought one tube of it and used some, and had to throw a bunch away as the grease would get 'watery' (separate?) in my toolbox when left in my car. It doesn't seem to have any durability, and I don't need that in my bike.

I just use Valvoline Synthetic wheel-bearing grease. It's like $4.00 for a whole tub of it, and it takes a LOT to run it out of spots its meant to be in. I've been using it on 3 bikes now, and after numerous muddy, wet, and nasty rides... the grease is still in there wonderfully. I use it on my axle bolts, headset, and hubs. For pedals and BB's, I use Anti-Seize... as it stays in there REALLY well and prevents the metal from bonding.

-Matt

I picked up a small tub of red automotive stuff at Wally-World earlier this year. Six hubs and two cranks later and I've been pleased with the results.

Bolts, stems and other items in need of corrosion protection get a dab of various lithium greases or anti-seize, depending on whats nearest or handy.

But then again, I'm happy with my motor oil/mineral spirits chain lube concoction. And the standard Nitrogen/Oxygen blend in my tires.

I bought a tube of Phil grease 20 years ago and I'm still using the same tube, so don't worry about not getting a big tub, unless of course you do it for a living. For maint of a single bike, over the years, it's enough. By the time you run out, you'll want something different anyway.

I'm happy with the standard Nitrogen/Oxygen blend in my tires.
Be careful of that stuff, I hear it causes cancer when mixed with cigarettes and your lungs. ;)

I've got a can of Harley Davidson synthetic wheel bearing grease (don't ask why I have it, I can't remember). I'm rebuilding my hubs this evening, so we'll see how it goes. I had a good look at the tub of special bike grease they had at the LBS (Park brand, I think...) and felt it to guess viscosity, and this HD stuff seems about the same (only its transparent blue, instead of transparent beige). I'm glad to hear that most greases seem to be working OK. I shop at harbor freight all the time, maybe I'll try out some of that marine grease when this HD tub runs out (not going to be very soon, I think).

peace,
sam

Marine bearing grease for me... $3 a tub, EXACT same stuff as Park and Phil's, waterproof (tell me though--isnt that the purpose of ANY grease?) nice and thick too.

Hey there

Where can you get this grease from?

Thanks

Marine bearing grease. $3 a can at Home Depot - same stuff as Park Tool grease or even Phil Wood (Phil's is $8 a tube)

The shop I started at used Phil Wood’s and I have always used it . Partly due to the fact I got it at cost then and you don’t need much so a tube will last the average guy a long time. I now pay retail for it and it don’t seem very much money to protect the $8000 of bikes in the basement.

I can't speak to the Park Tool grease but I know that Phil Wood's Grease is a NOT the same as other grease.

Phil Wood moved to a town 15 miles from were I grew up and I met him a few years back. An Amazing guy! I’m can’t spell the billion syllable words he used about what goes into grease…but not all grease is created equal. He puts the best “molecules” in the grease not the ones that are cheap and almost right to reach a low price point. I guess it’s like 105 or Dura-Ace. Both will shift so why would anyone spend more? Better performance.

Just as you won’t put a Harley chain on your bike. Why would you use lube for a Harley or a lawn mower on your bicycle?

Phil sealed the issue in my mind that I should stick with the correct grease for the application.

Cheers

Phil sealed the issue in my mind that I should stick with the correct grease for the application.



And your wallet.... :lol:

Phill creates his own molecules for his grease?

Psst. Want a bridge? I'm kidding!!

I'm sure "bike specific" greases are somehow formulated for bicycles in mind, but I'm sure using other greases are just as good.

Grease is grease for the most part. Color doesn't matter, except for aesthetics. And grease is umlikely to break down in bicycle use. Bikes are such low speed it's unlikely any part will ever get hot enough to break down a grease. The only exception to this I can think of is a coaster brake on a long downhill, perhaps the only instance where extreme heat generation will be encountered on a bike.

ditto shecky. use any old grease. synthetic, non-synth, wd-40 (lol, except it wouldn't last long), chicken fat, whatever the hell u want. never been able to tell the diff.

sd

I use the Polylube 1000 made by the Park Tool folks.

Koffee

I just use Valvoline Synthetic wheel-bearing grease. It's like $4.00 for a whole tub of it, and it takes a LOT to run it out of spots its meant to be in. I've been using it on 3 bikes now, and after numerous muddy, wet, and nasty rides... the grease is still in there wonderfully. I use it on my axle bolts, headset, and hubs. For pedals and BB's, I use Anti-Seize... as it stays in there REALLY well and prevents the metal from bonding.

-Matt
Same here, have done it this way since I first tore a wheel apart as a wee little kiddo and used my dad's grease to lube it before putting it back in. Works perfectly!!

IBM #23 typewriter grease. It is made for grease tab racks and works great for everything else, including bicycles.

Doc

Guys, does 20w50 motor oil cut it? Does it destroy or anyhting. I mean one's an engine and the other's a drive train. What's the big difference?

Guys, does 20w50 motor oil cut it? Does it destroy or anyhting. I mean one's an engine and the other's a drive train. What's the big difference?
The big difference is oil and grease. Oil is going to run out of your BB or hubs leaving them with no lubrication. That is not a GOOD THING[tm].

...
But then again, I'm happy with my motor oil/mineral spirits chain lube concoction. And the standard Nitrogen/Oxygen blend in my tires.


... Dont tell anyone, but I've been inhaleing that stuff, and I quite think I've become rather addicted...

Guys, does 20w50 motor oil cut it? Does it destroy or anyhting. I mean one's an engine and the other's a drive train. What's the big difference?
No No No NO If you can't tell the differance between grease and oil you really NEED to take a shop class.

Bikes are such low speed it's unlikely any part will ever get hot enough to break down a grease.

To get technical, that is actually a problem. Grease is basically oil suspended in a thick base. Grease made for high speed/ temperature/ pressure applications will not properly release the lubricant in low speed applications.

I use Park. I have also used marine grease. It is not the same. However, I think that both will work in reality.

To get technical, that is actually a problem. Grease is basically oil suspended in a thick base. Grease made for high speed/ temperature/ pressure applications will not properly release the lubricant in low speed applications.



I'm not sure I buy this. I've never come a cross a grease that wasn't greasy at normal ambient temps. And if they're greasy at ambient temps, then they're greasy enough for bikes. I'm not denying they exist. But it seems that a grease needing high temps to release it's lubrication properties would be pretty self evident.


Guys, does 20w50 motor oil cut it? Does it destroy or anyhting. I mean one's an engine and the other's a drive train. What's the big difference?

The big difference is oil and grease. Oil is going to run out of your BB or hubs leaving them with no lubrication. That is not a GOOD THING[tm].

Motor oil will certainly cut it. In fact, lots of old school bike bearings were designed to be oiled rather than greased, and used oil ports. As such, these old bikes usually required fairly regular oiling, perhaps a drop or two at each bearing per month. Obviously, oil will not remain in place the way grease will. As stated, grease is simply oil suspended in a thick base, which keeps it from running after gravity.

I suspect most modern bike parts are intended to be used exclusively with grease. As such, oil, while a good lube, would probably tend to run out and make a larger mess than necessary. Even "sealed" bike bearings I've seen would probably not retain oil. And without a oil port, oiling would mean frequent, rather extensive procedure to keep sufficient lube.