General Cycling Discussion - Off the peg and customised or complete custom build?

Hi all,

The time is nearing for me to build up my new allround commuter. It has to be drop bars and disc brakes with a triple crankset and a front dynohub.

Should I buy from a shop and then get them to customise the bits that aren't up to spec or should I go for the possibly more expensive custom build?

At the moment my custom build is more expensive as I have a lot of Ultegra and 105 components as opposed to some of the cheaper ones used in off the peg builds.

Also as an aside question: do these higher end (ultegra) parts wear out more quickly than say tiagra due to the weight reduction?

Thanks

Daven

I think you are the only one that can answer if you should spend the money. Personally if it was me and I had the money to spend, I would get exactly what I wanted. If you enjoy the bike more because it has better components, then you'll probably ride it more. Better return on your investment. But in reality, an off the rack bike would probably be just fine.

There are several bikes that would work in your situation. First that comes to mind is a Trek Portland. Add the dynohub and you're done.

No, Ultegra parts will last just as long as any of them. Just is more painful when/if you do break them.

Thanks, I guess I will look around to see if there is anything that pretty much matches my requirements before jumping in a gonig all out custom. However it would be nice to choose every part!

Not the last one as that was bought for a use and at a very special price but two bikes I have built up from Frame and fork combos. I have put on the quality and type of parts that I want/can afford. Both are Ultegra/105 mix and both fit me perfectly.

Problem with buying a "Stock" bike is the parts that you have to change to get the bike right for you. Starting with Frame and Forks I have put on the parts I want. It is either that or change as many parts as possible when buying the bike- or upgrading as the parts wear out. Both weigh under 16lbs and both ride well. But neither bike was cheap.

The annoying thing was that the last bike had everything up to standard- only weighs a bit more than the custom builds but rides just as good.

Attachments- Boreas and the TCR-C are the custom builds- The FCR is the one I bought at a low price.

Hi all,

The time is nearing for me to build up my new allround commuter. It has to be drop bars and disc brakes with a triple crankset and a front dynohub.

Have you looked at the Cotic Roadrat? It's the most obvious match.

It has to be drop bars and disc brakes with a triple crankset and a front dynohub.

Excellent specs. Sounds just like my bike.

Just this autumn I finally got a dynohub on mine. The Shimano Alfine is disc brake ready, just pop off a little rubber cover. Although your rotor needs to be Shimano Centerlock compatible and you'll need to buy the Centerlock lockring. The Avid G3 rotor comes in Centerlock or ISO six-bolt. I have one of each on my bike now.

I fancied getting a Kona Jake the Snake. However since I am an overweight out of shape 68 yr old, I wanted a triple with lower bottom gear and stronger wheels. So I got a custom built bike with lower level components for about the same price, but it suits me exactly.

Excellent specs. Sounds just like my bike.

Just this autumn I finally got a dynohub on mine. The Shimano Alfine is disc brake ready, just pop off a little rubber cover. Although your rotor needs to be Shimano Centerlock compatible and you'll need to buy the Centerlock lockring. The Avid G3 rotor comes in Centerlock or ISO six-bolt. I have one of each on my bike now.

Another option (I'm sure you knew this already anyway) is a Problem Solvers adapter that lets you use a six-bolt rotor on a Centerlock hub.

http://www.problemsolversbike.com/pdf/PS_Centerlock_rotor_adapter.pdf

QBP distributes it, so if your LBS doesn't already have one somewhere, they can surely order it.

Oh yeah, on the original topic --

I've just bought almost a complete drivetrain, mixing up Dura Ace shifters, Ultegra derailleurs, 105 brakes, and an R700 crank, all for relatively cheap (even if they weren't at cost). I figured I'd spend more where it mattered, and I think it turned out to be a good mix. I just need a frame to hang it all on, and at this point, I can come out ahead even compared to some OEM builds.

What I'm saying is, with judicious purchasing and maybe a bit of luck (finding the right parts at the right time), you can get exactly the bike you want without spending any more than you would on a complete bike out of its factory box.

Have you looked at the Cotic Roadrat? It's the most obvious match.

That is the frame I was considering for a custom build if I went that way - looks to have everything I need :D


Excellent specs. Sounds just like my bike.

Just this autumn I finally got a dynohub on mine. The Shimano Alfine is disc brake ready, just pop off a little rubber cover. Although your rotor needs to be Shimano Centerlock compatible and you'll need to buy the Centerlock lockring. The Avid G3 rotor comes in Centerlock or ISO six-bolt. I have one of each on my bike now.

My path to these specs was hybrid with disc brakes, then a road bike with cantilevers. I found I wanted disc brakes but the geometry of the road bike!

Regarding the rotor, I was thinking of just buying a 160mm shimano /centrelock rotor. Would any 160mm rotor work with avid bb7 disc brakes that come with a 160mm rotor or would I have to get the adaptor and use the original rotor?

I think I am leaning towards a custom build at the moment as all the off the shelf bikes with close to this spec start at about £700+ which after parts will come to the same as a custom build.


Oh yeah, on the original topic --

I've just bought almost a complete drivetrain, mixing up Dura Ace shifters, Ultegra derailleurs, 105 brakes, and an R700 crank, all for relatively cheap (even if they weren't at cost). I figured I'd spend more where it mattered, and I think it turned out to be a good mix. I just need a frame to hang it all on, and at this point, I can come out ahead even compared to some OEM builds.

What I'm saying is, with judicious purchasing and maybe a bit of luck (finding the right parts at the right time), you can get exactly the bike you want without spending any more than you would on a complete bike out of its factory box.

Which bit of the drivetrain can be "skimped" on without losing performance / reliability? I was thinking cassette and cranks?

Thanks all

OP, I would take a look at the Bob Jackson "off the peg" frames. They seem like an excellent value. You can get a frame for about 400 British Pounds (@600 U.S.). They can add on disc brake mounts, or whatever other braze-ons you want, for a small fee, before they paint the frame.

Regarding the rotor, I was thinking of just buying a 160mm shimano /centrelock rotor. Would any 160mm rotor work with avid bb7 disc brakes ... ?

The brakes don't care who made the rotor, so mix-n-match to your heart's content. I only mentioned the Avid G3 rotors because it's unusual to find the same rotor available in the two different mountings. I went with them strictly for the aesthetics.

OP, I would take a look at the Bob Jackson "off the peg" frames. They seem like an excellent value. You can get a frame for about 400 British Pounds (@600 U.S.). They can add on disc brake mounts, or whatever other braze-ons you want, for a small fee, before they paint the frame.

Thanks, however the roadrat frame is £300 including fork, and has all braze ons etc.

The brakes don't care who made the rotor, so mix-n-match to your heart's content. I only mentioned the Avid G3 rotors because it's unusual to find the same rotor available in the two different mountings. I went with them strictly for the aesthetics.

Thanks :) is there a particular style of rotor that gives better performance or are they all comparable?

Thanks :) is there a particular style of rotor that gives better performance or are they all comparable?

Maybe there is a performance difference off-road in the mud and such. I can't answer that.

On the streets in day-to-day, stop-and-go commuting, I've experienced no discernible difference in stopping power, wear, or noise levels between the three rotors I've had on my bike. (Avid Roundagon that came stock on it, Delta stainless-steel ones I put on the old winter wheelset, or Avid G3 on the new wheelset.)

What I have found is that when using multiple wheelsets, it's best to have the same model of rotor on each since they put different wear patterns on the pads.

Maybe there is a performance difference off-road in the mud and such. I can't answer that.

On the streets in day-to-day, stop-and-go commuting, I've experienced no discernible difference in stopping power, wear, or noise levels between the three rotors I've had on my bike. (Avid Roundagon that came stock on it, Delta stainless-steel ones I put on the old winter wheelset, or Avid G3 on the new wheelset.)

What I have found is that when using multiple wheelsets, it's best to have the same model of rotor on each since they put different wear patterns on the pads.

Thanks, will only be using one wheelset so I guess I will just find the cheapest Centrelock rotor to replace the avid one!

As far as component reliability the more expensive items theoretically may last longer. They may be lighter but typically have better bearings and more precision assembly. Also at least from Shimano the higher end aluminum pieces are forged while the cheaper ones are "melt forged" meaning die cast which produces weaker parts for the same cross section.

As far as component reliability the more expensive items theoretically may last longer. They may be lighter but typically have better bearings and more precision assembly. Also at least from Shimano the higher end aluminum pieces are forged while the cheaper ones are "melt forged" meaning die cast which produces weaker parts for the same cross section.

Thanks, I will try not to skimp below 105 level then!