Bicycle Mechanics - 27 Inch Rims + Tires + Tubes

I've got 27 X 1 1/4 set up all around

My question is can I move to a slightly narrower tire on the same rim, let's say 27 1/8 on the same rim?

Everything I read on Sheldon Brown looks like it is fairly safe to make that adjustment but I then went looking online for where I normally buy my tires and tubes (http://www.bicycletires.com/) and could find no other "27" tubes than the 27 X 1 1/4. How do I manage my way around the tube situation?

Thanks in advance!

Should be fine with the slightly narrower tires, just be aware that a lot of 27" rims don't have a hooked edge to hold the bead at higher pressures. If this is the case, limit your inflation pressure to 75-80psi maximum even if you're using a tire with a much higher max. inflation rating.

As for tubes, tubes suitable for a 700 x 32c tire are perfectly fine for 27 x 1 1/4 tires, anything suitable for a 700 x 28c tire will be fine for a 27 x 1 1/8 tires.

I mainly work on 27 inch wheels and rarely use 27 inch tubes anymore. I just stock two sizes of 700c tubes.

What determines the width of tire you can run is not the bead seat diameter (630mm on a 27" tire) but the width of the rim. Get a set of vernier calipers and check the inside rim width.

There are really good 27" rims available in the Velocity Dyad and asymmetric Synergy, and you can get great Continental tires in 27" to boot (UltraGatorskins and touring tires). The Schwalbe Marathon, and Panaracer Pasela (including Tourguard) are also great 27" tires.

Unless you're racing or training consider going to a wider tire. You'd be amazed how much more comfortable a wider tire (wider than 32mm or 1 1/4") can make a bike, allowing for lower tire pressures. A Rivendell 'set-up' that properly fits (you can actually ride in the drops instead of 99% of the time on the hoods on a too small bike) with wide tires at lower pressures, fenders, etc. should be in every stable. Its amazing how much fun this classic setup can be, plus you can actually take it all in, considering you won't be staring at your front hub the whole time...

I mainly work on 27 inch wheels and rarely use 27 inch tubes anymore. I just stock two sizes of 700c tubes.

It's what I do and some major tire sellers recommend. Some even come in 700c Presta OR reg. Schrader valve. As far as size tubes, err to the smaller diameter, tubes are VERY forgiving.

27" 1 1/8 on 1 1/4 rims.. NO/Prob.

Good for you for sticking with 27" stuff. There's enough stuff still available out there, and you don't need to worry about re-doing your brakes to make smaller 700c wheels fit.
I've built a number of wheels with 27" rims (all rear wheels with freehubs) and find that even cheaper single-wall rims (the typical standard in 27") are easy to work with.

What determines the width of tire you can run is not the bead seat diameter (630mm on a 27" tire) but the width of the rim. Get a set of vernier calipers and check the inside rim width.

There are really good 27" rims available in the Velocity Dyad and asymmetric Synergy, and you can get great Continental tires in 27" to boot (UltraGatorskins and touring tires). The Schwalbe Marathon, and Panaracer Pasela (including Tourguard) are also great 27" tires.

Unless you're racing or training consider going to a wider tire. You'd be amazed how much more comfortable a wider tire (wider than 32mm or 1 1/4") can make a bike, allowing for lower tire pressures. A Rivendell 'set-up' that properly fits (you can actually ride in the drops instead of 99% of the time on the hoods on a too small bike) with wide tires at lower pressures, fenders, etc. should be in every stable. Its amazing how much fun this classic setup can be, plus you can actually take it all in, considering you won't be staring at your front hub the whole time...

Yes, but:
a narrower, higher pressure tire will give a more nimble, responsive, ride.