Bicycle Mechanics - Overhauling Rear Hub

This is my bike (http://www.pythonbikes.com/Hybrid.aspx?bikeid=01). My rear hub is making a bit of noise and doesn't feel very smooth, so I think it's a good idea to overhaul it.

Just to confirm that this is what I need:

Freewheel remover (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Tacx-Tacx-Freewheel-Remover-for-Shimano-with-Handle-899.htm) (This will work right? My freewheel is a Shimano MF-TZ06)
(Also is this better or worse than using a freewheel remover nut where you need a large wrench to turn it?)
Grease (http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/nimrod-white-grease-id28857.html)

I have a 6 inch (handle) adjustable wrench and a 15 mm pedal wrench (just arrived today). I managed to remove the left side nuts and access the bearings using these two but of course I couldn't do anything on the freewheel side because I don't have a freewheel remover. Will I be able to remove the nuts and bearings like that on the right side after I get the freewheel off? Or do I really need a 15mm cone wrench? I noticed my pedal wrench is too thick to fit into the smaller nut for the front hub (front hub is fine, it's a brand new wheel which also arrived today) but I know the front hub's nut is 13mm.

Also, will I need to replace the bearings like bicycletutor.com recommends? The bike is fairly new, I bought it in March this year; it was kept in storage unused in a friend's place from June to September, and the odo currently reads 644km, although I reckon I've done about 300-400 km before I bought the computer.

Just curious, what is a chain whip for? Freehubs?

Thanks for any replies.

You will need to get some cone wrenches or you wont be able to adjust the bearings and lock the nutz. if you have a freewheel you dont need a chain whip, yes it is for a freehub. you will need a large cresent wrench to turn the freewheel tool or a bench vice.

you will need a large cresent wrench to turn the freewheel tool or a bench vice.

No he won't.

His tool has an integrated handle - the one he linked.

You will need to get some cone wrenches or you wont be able to adjust the bearings and lock the nutz.

I just said I managed to do exactly that on the left side with my 15mm pedal wrench and 6 inch adjustable wrench. My question is can I do the same on the right side with the same tools or do I really need to buy the 15mm cone wrench? I'm trying to keep costs down here.

I think I'll just buy it, just in case.

I'll reuse the ball bearings too. They should be all right.

I just said I managed to do exactly that on the left side with my 15mm pedal wrench and 6 inch adjustable wrench. My question is can I do the same on the right side with the same tools or do I really need to buy the 15mm cone wrench? I'm trying to keep costs down here.

I think I'll just buy it, just in case.

I'll reuse the ball bearings too. They should be all right.


^^^^ Bad idea.

^^^^ Bad idea.

Could have told me earlier :| I just ordered the stuff.

Will this do then? (http://www.cyclejunkie.co.uk/shop/article_14/Weldtite-1_4%22-Ball-Bearings.html)
(never mind I've just ordered it, it's only £2 anyway)

You only need to replace the balls if they have lost their shine. If they are dull then they are badly worn.
Inspect the cones. They should have a shiney path that the balls ride on. If they are pitted they will need to be replaced. When you have to replace the drive side cone make sure that the lock nut is very tight against the cone and make the final adjustments on the left side.
You need the proper freewheel tool and the cone wrenches to do the job right.
When you adjust the bearings make sure that there is a little play that will go away when you close the quick release.

Do I need Big tools to overhaul hubs?

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh187/10wheels/28th%20Flat/28thFlat067.jpg

You only need to replace the balls if they have lost their shine. If they are dull then they are badly worn.
Inspect the cones. They should have a shiney path that the balls ride on. If they are pitted they will need to be replaced. When you have to replace the drive side cone make sure that the lock nut is very tight against the cone and make the final adjustments on the left side.
You need the proper freewheel tool and the cone wrenches to do the job right.
When you adjust the bearings make sure that there is a little play that will go away when you close the quick release.

As a rule, I never re-use balls. Your eye cannot tell you about any wear other than if they are completely trashed and if that were the case, the hub is probably trashed also. You can buy a package of 100 steel balls grade 25 for around $5 so the supposed savings is nill.

I often reuse the balls if there's no damage. If I was in a World Championship time trial then I'd replace them, but just because they're used doesn't mean they need replacing.

If you have QR wheels, then you need to leave a little play in the axle because it will get tight as you tighten the qr lever when installing the wheel.

Your freewheel tool is fine. For people who work on bikes with multiple brands of freewheel, the small tools with a separate wrench will take up less space.

I just don't see the practicality of saving less than a dollar's worth of parts while doing an hours labor. That is false economy in my book. You don't have to be a champion racer to realize a reduction in cup or cone wear. Since you cannot check their roundness or sphericity with the naked eye, I'll err on the side of caution and spend a few cents. YMMV.

You only need to replace the balls if they have lost their shine. If they are dull then they are badly worn.
Inspect the cones. They should have a shiney path that the balls ride on. If they are pitted they will need to be replaced. When you have to replace the drive side cone make sure that the lock nut is very tight against the cone and make the final adjustments on the left side.
You need the proper freewheel tool and the cone wrenches to do the job right.
When you adjust the bearings make sure that there is a little play that will go away when you close the quick release.

You can't tell bearing wear if it's not obviously destroyed by visual inspection. The OP Has a freewheel rear with a solid axle which means you adjust the hub with zero play. Did you even read post #1?

I often reuse the balls if there's no damage..

Really? And you have a machine that tells you how worn they are? Or are you just guessing

No need to quarrel over the bearings, guys, since they're much cheaper than expected I've already bought them (and yes I'm convinced it's a good idea to replace them ;)).

I haven't got any quick release levers anywhere on my bike so there.

So in case you're too lazy to read the whole thread this is what I have:
- 6" adjustable wrench
- 15mm pedal wrench

and this is what I've bought (should arrive early next week)
Freewheel remover (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Tacx-Tacx-Freewheel-Remover-for-Shimano-with-Handle-899.htm)
1/4" bearings (http://www.cyclejunkie.co.uk/shop/article_14/Weldtite-1_4%22-Ball-Bearings.html)
Grease (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=16937)
13/15mm cone wrench (http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Park_Tools_Double_Ended_Cone_Wrench/4000000657/[/url)

Hopefully the freewheel won't be to difficult to remove. Wish me luck :)


Do I need Big tools to overhaul hubs?

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh187/10wheels/28th%20Flat/28thFlat067.jpg

Oh no, more tools to buy :S

I've successfully overhauled the rear hub. It rides smoothly now and hopefully the occasional "thunk" that happens while pedaling doesn't come back.

One more thing though, have a look at my freewheel (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2628/4134201940_ca561cbdef_b.jpg) and tell me if it's badly worn. I reckon the thing has done about 1000 km.

I realise that my freewheel is bottom end stuff, as I can find it for about £7 new. Would it be good to replace it? I don't really have any trouble with it or my derailleur at the moment.

I do want slightly lower gears, as I never use the 28T and 24T cogs; however it seems that just about all 6 speed freewheels start from 14T. I've found some exceptions though.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shimano-Dura-Ace-MF-7400-6-speed-screw-on-freewheel-VGC_W0QQitemZ230403832755QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item35a5237bb 3
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shimano-600-13-23-6-Speed-Freewheel-MF-6208_W0QQitemZ120489231654QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item1c0db7c5 26

Are used freewheels a good idea?

One more thing though, have a look at my freewheel (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2628/4134201940_ca561cbdef_b.jpg) and tell me if it's badly worn. I reckon the thing has done about 1000 km.

I realise that my freewheel is bottom end stuff, as I can find it for about £7 new. Would it be good to replace it? I don't really have any trouble with it or my derailleur at the moment.


It can be very difficult to tell if a freewheel is worn out just by looking at it. If the chain is slipping off the teeth while pedaling heavily, it is likely that the chain and freewheel are worn and should be replaced. If everything seems to be working fine, you may as well keep riding it.



Are used freewheels a good idea?

That would depend on how cheap they are. I wouldn't pay much for one unless it was something really special.

I just don't see the practicality of saving less than a dollar's worth of parts while doing an hours labor. That is false economy in my book. You don't have to be a champion racer to realize a reduction in cup or cone wear. Since you cannot check their roundness or sphericity with the naked eye, I'll err on the side of caution and spend a few cents. YMMV.
+1 I pay less than 2 cents per bearing ball. I don't see any savings to reuse, and what if you reuse one that you should have used? Then you will have to redo the job. No thanks.

I just don't see the practicality of saving less than a dollar's worth of parts while doing an hours labor. That is false economy in my book. You don't have to be a champion racer to realize a reduction in cup or cone wear. Since you cannot check their roundness or sphericity with the naked eye, I'll err on the side of caution and spend a few cents. YMMV.
If they are still polished then they are still round and spherical. They are cheap, but then you don't even need grade 25C for our use.
http://yarchive.net/bike/ball_bearings.html