Road Cycling - Buying used bikes that have been raced?

Is it generally a good/bad idea to buy a bike that's been raced? I was thinking that they are probably maintained better, but ridden harder? But perhaps they've been ridden less (assuming they train on another)?

I've been considering new bikes in the ~$1000-$1200 range (105 equipped Specialized/Trek/Felt/etc). But, I know of an 01 C'Dale CAAD5 for sale. Full DuraAce, 105 Wheels, raced for 2 seasons. $800.

Any reasons for or against used race bikes? vs. new lower level bikes?

Thanks.

Is it generally a good/bad idea to buy a bike that's been raced? I was thinking that they are probably maintained better, but ridden harder? But perhaps they've been ridden less (assuming they train on another)?

I've been considering new bikes in the ~$1000-$1200 range (105 equipped Specialized/Trek/Felt/etc). But, I know of an 01 C'Dale CAAD5 for sale. Full DuraAce, 105 Wheels, raced for 2 seasons. $800.

Any reasons for or against used race bikes? vs. new lower level bikes?

Thanks.

I'd take a real close look at crash damage on any bike that's been raced extensively. Racers tend to crash a lot. Full Dura-Ace with 105 wheels just somehow strikes me as weird -- almost like it's gotten wiped out a couple times and the original owner didn't want to risk trashing an expensive pair of wheels.

I tend to be really cautious of buying anything used -- somebody is selling it for a reason!

$800.00 for that bike, if it was me I would grab it, used the bike and if the frame has been damage you can keep the Dura ace groupo plus the wheels and then buy a good frame

Is it generally a good/bad idea to buy a bike that's been raced? I was thinking that they are probably maintained better, but ridden harder? But perhaps they've been ridden less (assuming they train on another)?

I've been considering new bikes in the ~$1000-$1200 range (105 equipped Specialized/Trek/Felt/etc). But, I know of an 01 C'Dale CAAD5 for sale. Full DuraAce, 105 Wheels, raced for 2 seasons. $800.

Any reasons for or against used race bikes? vs. new lower level bikes?

Thanks.


That sounds like he is probably keeping the nice race wheels and threw on something cheap to sell it complete.

Mke sure you like the ride of the cannondale, if not it is certainly not worth it.

I would consider buying race bike if it is what I wanted, and I am at least willing to do my own repair work. Components are likely to need replacing, and the wheels if used for 2 years will need more frequent truing. I own a 99 Felt F1 road with dura-ace that has been raced 2 seasons as well. I started riding it recently after it sat for about 5 years and it needed some attention(brake pads, handlebar tape, and cables and housing). Also expect to replace the stem and handlebars to suit your fit requirements if necessary.

It's funny. I'm a guy who buys new cars but won't buy a new bike. Yet the economics are the same. Ride a new bike for a long weekend and what do you have? A used bike that isn't worth anything near what you paid for it.

This is why I buy used - if you know what you are doing and are confident in it - the deals are amazing.

'03 Trek 5500 w/Ultegra ($1000)
'98 Lemond Maillot Jaune - frame never ridden - w/Ultegra - ($875)
'02 Lemond Poprad w/many CX upgrades and Ultegra - beautiful shape - ($500)
'04 Lemond Tete de Course - Carbon/Titanium - Frame only - used 3 months - ($1400)

These bikes are all in excellent to fabulous shape (the TdC needs parts) and were purchased as much for the deal as they were for the need they filled. And of course, they had to be the right size.

Point is - you can get a lot more bike going this route if you have the confidence to negotiate and the willingness to take a risk.

55/Rad

That sounds like he is probably keeping the nice race wheels and threw on something cheap to sell it complete.

That's what I'm thinking. I get the impression that racers like to hang on to a good wheelset because of both expense and proven reliability.

I also prescribe to 55/Rad's rationale for used bike purchasing. If you know what you're looking for and are confident in the seller, then you can find some good deals.

I'd take a real close look at crash damage on any bike that's been raced extensively. Racers tend to crash a lot.
Good point. Anything in particular that would clue me in to crashes/frame damage (besides the obvious scrapes/cracks/etc)?



That sounds like he is probably keeping the nice race wheels and threw on something cheap to sell it complete.
That's what I figured as well. Are 105's decent wheels?



Mke sure you like the ride of the cannondale, if not it is certainly not worth it.
For sure. May try and check it out this weekend.



It's funny. I'm a guy who buys new cars but won't buy a new bike. Yet the economics are the same.
Well, last new bike I bought was in '89. Since then I've bought several bikes used - but never from a racer. Actually, I've never bought a new car either...

I am a decent enough bike mechanic to repair/adjust a used bike. But of course, damaged frame or components starts costing real money. So, on raced bikes, simply being ridden "hard" in itself isn't an issue, but I should be more concerned w/ possible damage from the increased likelihood of crashes?

in general, most serious racers i know buy better stuff, spend more money on bikes, turn bikes over more frequently and take much better care of their gear. as a result, there are some deals out there, but as posted above, inspect the frame carefully. even better, have a shop do it.

Good point. Anything in particular that would clue me in to crashes/frame damage (besides the obvious scrapes/cracks/etc)?
Look for cracks in the paint around the junction of headtube and downtube and toptubes.
Also look for bulges in the tubes and ripples in the paint. If the fork looks like its pushed back, run don't walk away!. Dimples in the tubes under the junctions also are not a
good sign. Check the forks for the same things, cracked paint (although this doesn't
always mean damage to the tubes), bulges, dimples etc.
If possible have an LBS look the frame over before buying.

Marty

Look for cracks in the paint around the junction of headtube and downtube and toptubes.
Also look for bulges in the tubes and ripples in the paint. If the fork looks like its pushed back, run don't walk away!. Dimples in the tubes under the junctions also are not a
good sign. Check the forks for the same things, cracked paint (although this doesn't
always mean damage to the tubes), bulges, dimples etc.
If possible have an LBS look the frame over before buying.

Marty

Good stuff. Thanks.