Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Feet spinning to fast!

Just did a singlespeed conversion. 42/17 gearing. I just happened to have a 42. I am new to ss and find climbing with this combo is perfct, even border line tough. Flats and slight downhil however, l find me not being able to spin fast enough to gain speed. I pretty much top out at 21 mph on the flats. Any suggestions on which chainring I should switch out? Thanks!

Just did a singlespeed conversion. 42/17 gearing. I just happened to have a 42. I am new to ss and find climbing with this combo is perfct, even border line tough. Flats and slight downhil however, l find me not being able to spin fast enough to gain speed. I pretty much top out at 21 mph on the flats. Any suggestions on which chainring I should switch out? Thanks!

I ride 46x17. It's hard up hills but I can handle. Good all around I think.

i ride a 42x16 and like it as an all around gear even though im about to drop to a 15 in the back. like someone on here once told me, rear cogs are cheaper so experiment with those.

i normally ride 48-17 but have since dropped down to 44-17 now that the weather is colder and my knees were starting to hurt.

get a 46t chainring. you'll be fine.

I ride Colorado hills with 48/16 and want something higher for coming down but dont think I could climb with anything bigger.

Are the rear cogs easier to change than a chain wheel?

Are the rear cogs easier to change than a chain wheel?

I think that depends on whether you can remove your chainring without removing the whole crankarm (I can't).

i think its about the same if you have the proper tools. neither one is time consuming. but if you make changes a lot i would go with multiple cogs than multiple chain wheels.

+1

Not to mention that one could have two cogs out back and simply flip the wheel.

Buy a handful of the cheapest rear cogs you can find. Test until you find the ratio you want. Sell off cheap cogs and buy a good one in the size you like.

Buy a handful of the cheapest rear cogs you can find. Test until you find the ratio you want. Sell off cheap cogs and buy a good one in the size you like.

Smrt.

I think that depends on whether you can remove your chainring without removing the whole crankarm (I can't).

What crank do you have?

Smrt.

Thats just the way I did it in the beginning. I bought 8 no name cogs from J&B Importers for around $2 each. I went from 14 to 21t. I found out that with a 48t chainring, I liked the 16t cog the best (At the time). Sold off the cheap ones and bought a Dura-Ace cog.

What crank do you have?

I have a Sram red crank with a 42 ROTOR chainring. The 42 was off a TT bike. I liked the idea of a SS to improve strength, so I put together all my extra parts. Ended up with a BMC aluminum Road Racer frame, Sram Red crank, 3T fork and stem, Profile design bullhorn handlebars, Ultegra brakes, Mavic deepdish wheelset, Most seat post, and selle italia gel flow seat.(quite a combo). I already want to ride the SS over my two road bikes. just something fun about, SIMPLE! Thanks for all the suggestions, and the serious replys were welcomed.( YOU have to go through about 15 worthless replies in Road biking to get a suggestion that is serious or helpful) I thonk i will try the 46x17 combo, will have to work harder on the climbs, and should give me a little more push on the flats and downhills. Again thanks for the input!!

me to..i have a problem with that. im also a single speeder but slow on flats and fast on hils

Rear cogs are easier/cheaper to change, unless you already have the parts on hand. I guess you are using a tensioner.

BMC??? sounds sweet! post a photo.

If you really want to develop, why not get a new rear wheel with a track hub spaced to 130mm so you can go fixed. It's best to not use a tensioner for fixed cogs, so if you build the rear wheel with a White industrys Eno eccentric hub, you can get good tension with vertical dropouts.

Fixed is good for training, because it forces you to develop you spinning technique, which it seems (via consensus on the matter) makes you a faster rider. Isn't that why Lance trains with a FG???

SS is good, but downhill you can just coast, which doesn't help the training much I am sure.

It's best to not use a tensioner for fixed cogs

Correction: you can't use a tensioner for fixed

Fixed is good for training, because it forces you to develop you spinning technique, which it seems (via consensus on the matter) makes you a faster rider. Isn't that why Lance trains with a FG???
.

The flip side of that coin is it allows you to be ultra lazy between on the 6-12'oclock position of the pedal stroke because you don't need to actually push to get it through. Cranks spin themselves.

My bike started out 42-17 but after a while I went to 42-15. I keep a 16T freewheel cog on the flipside.

With that sprocket ratio you should be able to take off spinning the rear tire and lofting the front wheel in the air!:lol: I ride all flat land and really want super fast topend. I switched cranksets last night from a 16/48 to a 16/52, also going down from a 170mm arm to a 165, I just ordered a 14 tooth freewheel for even more top speed, looking to get well into the 30's.:thumb:

if you can't go any faster than 21mph with a 42/17 the problem isn't the gearing its your legs, that's only 105rpm which you should be able to do. I ride the same gearing and have no problems hitting 30mph on downhills and 25mph in the flats and I'm old

Correction: you can't use a tensioner for fixed

wrong.

I dont get how people can ride 42s on the street. I get it if you are into feestyle and trick riding but for getting around, I just dont see it unless you like going slow and at a high cadence.

I started off rding fixed with a 48-16. Briefly, I tried 48-18 and found it spun out way to easily. Now Im riding 48-15 and loving it. Uphills are a mashfest but man does it pay off onthe downhills and flats.

I started off rding fixed with a 48-16. Briefly, I tried 48-18 and found it spun out way to easily.

because you can't spin. I run 48:19 and comfortably ride at 18-20 mph

because you can't spin. I run 48:19 and comfortably ride at 18-20 mph

it is fun to climb hills at 18mph

Are the rear cogs easier to change than a chain wheel?
Not necessarily. But rear cogs are generally cheaper than front chainrings, and a 1-tooth change in the back makes more of a difference than a 1-tooth change in the front and usually doesn't require changing the chain length.

Generally speaking: 1 tooth on the rear is equal to a 3 tooth change on the front.

48/16 (approximately) = 51/17

I dont get how people can ride 42s on the street. I get it if you are into feestyle and trick riding but for getting around, I just dont see it unless you like going slow and at a high cadence.

I started off rding fixed with a 48-16. Briefly, I tried 48-18 and found it spun out way to easily. Now Im riding 48-15 and loving it. Uphills are a mashfest but man does it pay off onthe downhills and flats.

I used to be the same way...
But
Learn to spin, your knees will thank you

because you can't spin. I run 48:19 and comfortably ride at 18-20 mph


Wow really, you got that I cant spin out of that comment? I love the generalizations people make on the the internet from such little info.

Maybe I cant spin but your reading comprehension sucks. I was questioning light gear ratios (like 42-18) but Im sure you can spin that comfortably at 20 MPH too since you are such a master of cycling technique right?

bikecalc.com (http://www.bikecalc.com/) is a handy tool for this kind of stuff!!!

I am spinning at 46/19. Highly maneuverable. Often-times, I out-maneuver pedestrians; not just cars. This keeps me from danger in highly congested urban conditions. I haven't had a scary moment ever since I dropped from 46/17.

bikecalc.com (http://www.bikecalc.com/) is a handy tool for this kind of stuff!!!

Excellent!!

wrong.

I challenge you to show me a working chain tensioner on a fixed gear drivetrain.

Axle tug/adjusters != chain tensioner.

I'm running a 42x15. It's just a tad faster. At one time I had a 53x15 on my fixie! It was great for hauling ass on flat roads, utterly useless on steep hills.

Wow really, you got that I cant spin out of that comment? I love the generalizations people make on the the internet from such little info.

Maybe I cant spin but your reading comprehension sucks. I was questioning light gear ratios (like 42-18) but Im sure you can spin that comfortably at 20 MPH too since you are such a master of cycling technique right?

If you think 20mph with a 42:18 ratio is uncomfortable then you were right. You can't spin. 110rpm should not be a hardship, ride your bike more and use a lower gear to develop your spin. Your normal cruising RPM should be in the region of 90-100 I believe, so that your knees don't get angry.

re: chain tensioners, I accidentally put a wheel in fixed-side first when putting together a bike using the old derailler as the tensioner. Let's say it's possible to use one when the wheel is fixed, but you can never ever... EVER even hint at backpedalling. It will eff things up rather spectacularly. Note: this is speculation as I realized my mistake before I even got the bike rolling on the ground.

OP: as others have said, just get a lower-toothed cog in the back and give that a whirl. 46 on the chainring is ideal in my city (and my opinion), but that's more costly and could be more hassle. Try a 16 on the back and work harder on your climbing, and your descents can help you spin as you go.

i was riding 42/16 on ss for a while and had the same problem, kind of frustrating. when i converted to fg i switched to 46/16 and so far its been pretty ideal, not too terrible for climbing hills either

If you think 20mph with a 42:18 ratio is uncomfortable then you were right. You can't spin. 110rpm should not be a hardship, ride your bike more and use a lower gear to develop your spin. Your normal cruising RPM should be in the region of 90-100 I believe, so that your knees don't get angry.

Please show me where I said that I found 42-18 uncomfortable at 20 mph. I said I found 48-18 spun out too easily for me, I never said under what conditions. I was refereing to the very large hills that I have to ride down during my commute. I easily hit 35+ on decents and found the spin to fast to control at 35+, let me guess now you are going to tell me that if I cant spin comfortably at 190 rpm then I cant spin and should go practice riding.

I commute every day and ride both days on the weekend. Dont worry about my spin, go ride yourself instead of trying to be an internet bike guru coach.

bike came w/ a 46-15 which was brutal on the hills around here. I've since switched out to 42-17 and i love it. You're right about not going much over 25mph though but it's comfortable for the majority of my riding which is a down a hill then back up it.

If i lived on flats there is no way i would ride that gear, probably would have left the 46-15.

Please show me where I said that I found 42-18 uncomfortable at 20 mph. I said I found 48-18 spun out too easily for me, I never said under what conditions. I was refereing to the very large hills that I have to ride down during my commute. I easily hit 35+ on decents and found the spin to fast to control at 35+, let me guess now you are going to tell me that if I cant spin comfortably at 190 rpm then I cant spin and should go practice riding.

I commute every day and ride both days on the weekend. Dont worry about my spin, go ride yourself instead of trying to be an internet bike guru coach.

Wait. I thought we were talking about spinning; not bombing downhill and spinning like a sweating bullet. ... That's what the freewheels are for. You don't need to be fixated on spinning down full speed. You just have to get down the hill right? Maybe slow down and take it easy?

Wait. I thought we were talking about spinning; not bombing downhill and spinning like a sweating bullet. ... That's what the freewheels are for. You don't need to be fixated on spinning down full speed. You just have to get down the hill right? Maybe slow down and take it easy?

I like bombing hills on my fixed gear. Only bike I have is a fixed gear. I no likey freewheels.

It's all cool, to each his own.

Fixed with 46/17

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k277/883elder/newezt017.jpg

can i have your bike? mmmmmmmm. bmc. bmmmmmmc.

Fixed with 46/17

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k277/883elder/newezt017.jpg

gnarly tension bro

gnarly tension bro

How can you tell the tension from the pic?

My suggestion, hop on your road bike. See what gear feels most comfortable for the areas you want to ride your ss and simulate that ratio wise by using this gearing calc http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html . It seems most fixed riders i know prefer a higher ratio (2.8+) than a lot of the others, if you were doing tt's i can imagine you might want to go taller on your gearing.


RooNYC seems to know what i'm talking about, i'm running 50/16 and it's a blast to sprint on.

How can you tell the tension from the pic?

looking at the chain?

looks really taut, no sag whatsoever.

just saying.

looking at the chain?

looks really taut, no sag whatsoever.

just saying.


Properly tensioned chains should not sag. It should have some give when you push it but not look droopy.

Properly tensioned chains should not sag. It should have some give when you push it but not look droopy.

True. When pushed on, it sags about 3/4". Seems about right...