Cyclocross - Should I get a cyclocross or mountain bike?

I want a cyclocross really bad but they cost more then hardtail mountain bikes. Im wanting to get a bike to do 10-20 mile commutes. I live on dirt roads so I would have to ride on 4 miles dirt roads going to town and town is 10 miles away. I get a 1000 dollars on my birthday in 2 months. Should I save up 500 dollars and get a $1500 cyclocross or should I just buy a hardtail mountain bike for $700 and have money left over for accessories? I weigh 280 pounds, im just wanting a bike I that will last a long time. Would I break the bike since cyclocrosses are lighter weight then mountain bikes? What should I do? I like the drop bars on cyclocrosses and the faster speed. My dirt roads are well kept cause they grade it everyday.

What cross bike are you thinking of getting? Some of them are more heavily built than others. There's a guy around DC that weighs more than 280 and he races his bike darn hard. I'm sure you can get a strong cross bike; just make sure the wheels are up to snuff.

I dont know, I looked at the trek website and they dont have them and I heard they start at $1500. Is there any that are price at arount $1000?

Is the kona major one a good choice for a cyclocross bike? Its $1100

I if you really want a cross bike I would wait and save, both bikes will be capable of doing what you want. But why settle it is your bday present get what you want even if it comes a little later than your bday. I thought there were some cross bikes under $1500. As far as accessories I got a cheap $10 helmet and one pair of $14 shorts from academy some cheap gloves for like $5 one tube and a super cheap mini pump $5 or so, And I was riding. Really don't have to go crazy with expensive accessories at first the cheap stuff will get you by. A buddy of mine weighs 250 and takes his cross bike on mtb trails w/o problems. Every bike I bought new was done on layaway all the bike shops I got bikes from were really cool about that.

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/tcx.2/3889/36630/

So is a $1500 cyclocross bike worth the extra money compared to buying a cyclocross bike around $1100?What would the main difference be?

You probably want a Kona Jake the Snake for $1400, not a Major One (no gearing).
http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=jakethesnake

This gets you solid Shimano 105 components and Mavic wheels, which are strong (although a bit heavier than other more expensive wheels). It even gets you clipless pedals.

Might be able to find a new one 2009 on sale for less.

Redline Conquests are also pretty solid rides.

There's no need to spend $1500 on cross bike, especially if you're not going to race it. You can get a good, versatile cross bike for under $1000. Some models off the top of my head are the Bianchi Volpe, Surly Crosscheck, Kona Jake, and Redline Conquest. The main differences I see between a $1000 bike and a $1500 is the component specs and wheels. For a 1st bike, I doubt it matters.

The cross season is mostly over, so I would shop around for closeouts and the like. I wouldn't be surprised if you can get one of those $1500 bikes for closer to $1000. Over the summer, I could have gotten a new old stock Redline Conquest Team for $1300 while 6 months earlier, it was more then $3000.

Will there be closeouts around the 1st of february cause my birthday is jan 29?

closeouts are happening now, as manufacturers transition from 2009 to 2010 model years.

Is your 10-20 mile commute one way, or round trip? I commute 27 miles one way and couldn't imagine doing it on a mountain bike

Check your local craigslist also. I tried to sell my brand new Specialized Tricross on craigslist and didn't get a nibble even though it was $600 lower than what I paid for it. Good deals to be found now that cross season is over.

closeouts are happening now, as manufacturers transition from 2009 to 2010 model years.

Is your 10-20 mile commute one way, or round trip? I commute 27 miles one way and couldn't imagine doing it on a mountain bike20 miles one way to one town and 10 miles away to the other town.

i would not get a MTB

The lower price CX bikes have Sora shifters which work well but are hard shifting to smaller cogs from the drops. Expect to do most of your riding on the hoods where the Soras give easy shifting both ways.

Kona Jake.
Sub $1000. Plenty of bike for you, and lots of money left over for helmet, locks, etc.

It will last. I have over 10K all-weather miles on mine, and put over 9K on most of the original components before I swapped it to a singlespeed for the hell of it.

Check your local craigslist also. I tried to sell my brand new Specialized Tricross on craigslist and didn't get a nibble even though it was $600 lower than what I paid for it. Good deals to be found now that cross season is over.

I got a barely used boutique Campag powertrain crosser that barely had wear on its tyres for £200 - new it was probably close to £1000.

If the OP doesn't used then he should look at a Cross Check or Kona Jake. They both have solid reputations - and the more expensive bikes are often tilted more towards racing and less comfortable and versatile.

Another point: if you're commuting, where will you park? How safe will the bike be? It's a good idea not to go too high end if a bike is locked on a public rack all day. Plus a bike should be more bash resistant - under those circumstances I'd go for the (steel) Cross Check with bar end shifters rather than brifters. The recommended retail is almost exactly $1000:


http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check_complete/

http://www.surlybikes.com/uploads/bikes/BK1756_1.jpg

The lower price CX bikes have Sora shifters which work well but are hard shifting to smaller cogs from the drops. Expect to do most of your riding on the hoods where the Soras give easy shifting both ways.

2009 Moto' @ $500. :thumb:

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs106.snc3/15368_1063121476014_1765313326_127374_1523592_n.jpg

Yeah I shouldnt spend alot of money on a bike I wont be able to use for the main reason it costs more. Since I havent rode a bike since I was a kid I wont be able to take advantage of faster speed. I just need one for transportation.

I would vote for 10spd over 9spd out back - everybody moved to 10spd a while ago, so I think the 9spd stuff will be phased out eventually.

With your intended purpose you are an ideal candidate for cyclocross bike. Heavy mountain bikes are no fun for your use. It is fun to go fast. The best value in all cyclocrossdom is the Kona Major Jake. It has gotten great reviews in the press and owners really like it. Fine components and lightweight. US MSRP is $2100. With good negotiation skills you should be able to get it for $1800 plus tax. An absolutely amazing value.
http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=majorjake

I agree that you would be better off with a cross bike. The Kona Jake or Surly Cross Check would be just fine for what you're doing.

As for your weight influencing your decision, almost any frame will be fine, but you'll need your wheels to be strong as hell. If you buy a complete bike, make sure that the wheels are tensioned by hand at the shop before you start riding hard. The difference between a wheel that's been tensioned by a machine and one that is done by hand by a professional is amazing.

Whatever you decide, have fun with it.

My dirt roads are well kept cause they grade it everyday.
Every day?
If this means loose gravel, you should test a sample bike of each variety to see if it is rideable.
CX tires may not give you enough flotation if the road surface is too soft.

Admittedly, the remaining 6/16 miles would be worse on an MTB.
But pushing a bike 4 miles each way would suck.

I would also recommend the Kona Jake or Surly Cross Check. I have one of each, and I like them a lot.

The entry level cyclocross bikes are really a much better choice for you than the more expensive bikes. Even if the cost were the same, the entry level bikes would be better for your needs. As a couple people have already said, the higher priced bikes are aimed at racing, which means, among other things, that they aren't well suited to things like installing fenders and a rack. The entry-level bikes are really intended to be used as you would be using them.

You're definitely in a tough position wanting to take up biking after not having done it since you were a kid. I was in the same position a couple of years ago. I wasn't sure I'd like biking, so I bought the cheapest non-department store bike I could find (a $300 GT Timberline). I ended up loving it and within a year I bought the Kona Jake and gave the Timberline to my nephew. The thing that makes your position difficult is that if you spend a lot and don't love it, you've wasted a lot of money, but if you by a crappy bike it greatly increases the chances that you won't enjoy biking.

The Timberline I got wasn't a bad bike, but like many new bike buyers I got the wrong size, even though I knew sizing was important. I just didn't know how to figure that out and the sales guy at the store I went to wasn't very helpful in that regard. Whatever you decide, if you're going to buy a bike, make sure you test ride it first and buy it from an LBS that can make sure you get the right size and explain to you why it's the right size. Be especially careful about this with regard to closeout bikes. The shop is trying to unload them, so they might fudge a little in the name of giving you a good deal. Poorly fitting bikes aren't a good deal at any price. You should try to read up on bike fit beforehand (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html). It probably won't make sense until you start riding, but it will at least give you a base of knowledge.

You didn't mention your fitness level, so I don't know how that will be for you. This can be discouraging at first, but with just a little bit of persistence it is easily overcome. My fitness was terrible when I started, and I wasn't even sure I'd be able to bike regularly. The first day out, I only rode about a mile and I could barely stand up afterwards. But I stuck with it, and the fitness (not to be confused with weight loss) came quickly. About a year later I rode 100 miles in a day. FWIW, I have also lost 50 pounds -- most of my weight was fat -- but unlike the basic fitness, you won't get that from riding unless you also manage your eating accordingly. Biking can make weight loss a lot easier though. You didn't say if that's one of your goals, but I know it is for a lot of people new to cycling.

Every day?
If this means loose gravel, you should test a sample bike of each variety to see if it is rideable.
CX tires may not give you enough flotation if the road surface is too soft.

Admittedly, the remaining 6/16 miles would be worse on an MTB.
But pushing a bike 4 miles each way would suck.
Its really packed gravel, not loose gravel.

Riding in loose pea to thumb-sized gravel that gives way is really, really not fun - if it's stable gravel over clay/dirt, that's perfect for a CX bike

FWIW Gary Fisher has a new line of cyclocross bikes coming out soon. Aimed squarely at the Crosscheck, Volpe, and others. Looks like about $1000 price point. Steel frame. Brifters. Decent components. Your Trek dealer should have 'em. LBS in my area says they hope to get some after the first of the year. I plan on test riding one myself. Probly worth a look.

Go to some shops and ride a lot of different bikes. When you find one you like look for one used. I picked up a 09 Kona JTS with Dura ace and 105 for $600 for the wife just the other weekend.

Giant offers the tcx model with sora for 970 or so

Giant offers the tcx model with sora for 970 or so

i continue to hear what a deal that is....from folks that have ridden them AND, yes, upgraded it themselves...a frame to keep. wear out the sora...then move on and keep moving. the direction i am planning to take at this point

It seems to me that you ought to be able to get Tiagra components for $1000 or less. I can't say anything about the Giant frame. There's a shop around here selling 2009 Kona Jakes (which have Tiagra) for $800.

The Giants are stunning as well, at least from photos. Should have some coming into the shop this week or next.

+1 on the reccomendations for a Surly Cross Check. As a bigger guy myself (~230 lbs) I never worry about the frame. If you like it and truly start riding a lot, start saving and look to upgrade the wheels and shifters if you don't like the ones that come standard. The wheelset on the Cross Check is okay, not great, but I didn't have any troubles with it until race season when they took some pretty big hits with my fat @## on it.

I agree with everybody who says no the MTB. If you really start riding as much as you say, you won't ultimately be happy on a MTB.

I bought a brand new (NOS) 2008 Trek XO1 with a 105 groupo at the velodrome swap meet for $825 - from a bikeshop dealer! Showroom condition. Listed new for $1,749. Probably one of the sweetest deals I have ever run across. It's virtually exactly the same as the 2009 model and almost identical to the 2010 model.

I take this bike on all types of surfaces, and it performs extremely well. My "engine" is not bad, but I'm certainly only an average rider. I like the bike because you can change the tires out and it becomes essentially a functioning road bike. I am primarily a road biker, but I've always wanted to hit the trails and do some light off-roading. This bike was my ticket to do exactly that. Can't say enough good things about it.

Lots of opportunities out there for value. Just gotta dig a little.

BTW, the next Velo Swap Meet in Allentown is in May (usually). Always some incredible values and a TON of stuff to look at and buy. I've never been disappointed.

http://www.bikepedia.com/Images/image.aspx?w=400&h=400&filename=2008-Trek-xo1.jpg