Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - Soldering Cable Ends

I used to solder the cable ends instead of crimping on those end things because it was neater but my 30 watt electric soldering iron and tin-lead solder won't work with the stainless steel cables I prefer to use. Any suggestions?

Maybe epoxy? Or if you like excitement you could try whacking them with a spot welder, but I think that would generate more excitement and injury and not so much actual useful results.

I just crimp the ends on.

I have used super glue, electrical tape or heat shrink tubing at various times over the years. Not all at the same time mind you.

You could use a small butane "pencil" torch or a plumber's propane torch to get the SS hot enough. Just be sure you do it prior to installing the cables to keep from melting the lining in your cable housing, they can't take much heat (as you've probably learned.)

I have been using "flexible" super glue for a few years with great results. It seems to wick less into the cable than the regular stuff. A little drop on the end and you are good to go. Keep in mind that you still have to contend with the cable end after you make your cut and glue it. It won't fray but it will darn sure be sharp if you don't have a nice clean / blunt cut. That is about the only benefit that the crimped ends have to offer.

Get a speciality solder kit, for $3-4 at a hardware store. The solder in the kit contains silver and will adhere to stainless steel. The flux will contain hydrochloric acid. The melting temperature of that solder will be a bit higher than for a lead-based solder.

I use heat shrink tubing, shrinking it with a Bic lighter. Sometimes you can even get the housing off and back on with the tubing intact. I figure superglue on the end will do the same thing.

I think crimp caps look ugly, and soldering is troublesome on SS.

There is a company named Brownell's. They sell a silver solder called Hi-Force 44 solder. You will also need #4 Comet soldering flux, also from Brownell's. That is what you need. Works on stainless steel cables. I keep a small jar with some acetone in it to clean the cables before soldering.
This is what they use on airplane cables to keep them from fraying.

There is a company named Brownell's. They sell a silver solder called Hi-Force 44 solder. You will also need #4 Comet soldering flux, also from Brownell's. That is what you need. Works on stainless steel cables. I keep a small jar with some acetone in it to clean the cables before soldering.
This is what they use on airplane cables to keep them from fraying.

Thanks, this is exactly the information I was looking for! I need to find a local supplier for the flux since it can't be shipped air so I can't get it from Bownells because I'm in Hawaii.

Thanks, this is exactly the information I was looking for! I need to find a local supplier for the flux since it can't be shipped air so I can't get it from Bownells because I'm in Hawaii.

Talk to someone who repairs/maintains airplanes. That's where I learned about it.

I used to solder cable ends, because I thought it looked neat. The end would still sometimes be a little sharp.

Years passed. Then one day I bought 100 cable ends for $5 from Nashbar, and realized soldering cable ends is just a bad idea.

Then one day I bought 100 cable ends for $5 from Nashbar, and realized soldering cable ends is just a bad idea.

Wrong: Cable with a soldered end may be taken out and threaded back in. If you change break pads and need extra cable length, you can exploit a soldered one to the maximum. Cable-end crimps are a nuisance in comparison.

Wrong: Cable with a soldered end may be taken out and threaded back in. If you change break pads and need extra cable length, you can exploit a soldered one to the maximum. Cable-end crimps are a nuisance in comparison.

So can a crimiped cable end.

And it's brake. Lmao.

So can a crimiped cable end.

If they're not soldered they'll fray.

If they're not soldered they'll fray.

Hmmm. I haven't had much problem there, maybe because I get a lot of practice ;) Just uncrimp and remove the cap if you need to, be gentle when re-feeding the cable through the housing, and put another cap on when you're done. I've tried soldering cables before, and found that the cable ends up sharp and stiff enough to pose a puncture-wound hazard in some scenarios, which makes my ankle angry :D

If you prefer minimalist-looking ones for aesthetic reasons, there are some that are quite slim and have no flange at the open end.

my end caps are crimped only enough to hold them in place - the underlying cable is unaffected, and it does not fray

all tools can cause damage if the operator lacks the skill and experience to use them

soldering cable ends is a waste of time

soldering cable ends is a waste of time

It's a free country.

(Sorry, couldn't help it.)

Either the crimps or super glue.

If they're not soldered they'll fray.

I've never soldered mine, and I've never had one fray.

I went to the Church of Suburban Manhood -- i.e., Harbor Freight -- and got (as always, on sale) a box of shrink tubing, various sizes.

That stuff does a fine job on cable ends and is easily removable.

On Campy cables I've failed soldering with lead/tin solder with resin flux and with acid flux. What I do now is run about three turns of fine (~22 gage) solid copper wire around the stainless cable and solder that. It works.

I crimp a used spoke nipple.