Bicycle Mechanics - Steel Frame Life

I purchased a Surly Long Haul Trucker frame about a month ago and have put about 400 miles on her so far. This is the first time I've owned anything more than a low-end mountain bike, and so I wanted to get an idea about how long a frame like this might last. Obviously I realize it depends on how the bicycle is used. In my case, that is daily commuting and occasional touring. It doesn't snow where my university is, but it the effects of heavy coastal rain are apparent on most people's bicycles. Eventually I will be winter commuting in snow.

Of course I want this frame to last as long as possible, so additionally I was wondering what sort of frame mantinence I could perform to hinder rust formation. And for road commuting/touring, is rust the main concern? I tour fairly lightweight, and am myself lightweight, so I don't foresee too many issues with stress induced from weight.

I might consider getting a beater bike for more grueling conditions, but my space and funds are very limited, especially after purchasing what is, to me, an expensive bicycle. I thank in advance for any information.

Rust can be a problem, but if the inside of the frame has been treated with Framesaver or the like, & you dress any chips in the paint job, there shouldn't be any rust. You can apply Framesaver yourself, or get the LBS to do it.

As for fatigue life, the stress levels in a steel frame are usually such that the fatigue life of the frame is infinite. Steel and ti both have the property of infinite fatigue life, provided the stress does not exceed a certain percent of the yield strength of the material. Aluminum does not.

All the other stuff hanging off the frame will be the big upkeep items. Wipe everything down after a wet ride, and keep it all well lubricated. Don't use WD-40, it's a crud magnet.

Agreed. However WD40 can be a good way to work water out of areas where rust has already started. I don't neccessarly think it is a dirt magnet... Any lubricant is in that light. Once the rust is penitrated with WD or other water displacement formula, any light oil can also protect the frame. Even heavier oils like good ol' 30W motor oil can prevent rust from spreading (anything that keeps out the air and water).

Of course the best is a good water-proof paint/sealent.

My last touring bike was steel and I kept it for 16 years. The secret is keeping the frame indoors, not in a garage unless it is airconditioned (or very dry) and removing sweat and junk from the frame after rides.

If the bike is a comutter that may sit outside a lot then aluminum is probably a better choice...

Since you live in California and rust is usually not a problem here, your frame should last as long as any '57 Chevy that's still out there...

A drain hole in the BB shell is good to have.

about 100,000 miles....

Counterpoint:

1971 Nishiki Competition (Ishiwata db CrMo main triangle) -- at 20 years and about 40K miles / 65K km, BB shell broke at the seat tube lug

1973 Peugeot UO-8 (plain gauge steel) -- at 20 years and perhaps 20K miles / 32K km, right chainstay broke between the clearance dimples

I do enjoy hills, but I also weigh only about 65 kg / 143 lb.

With proper care/preventative maintenance, your frame will last 'til you're ready to retire!

My steel Davidson was built in '81. I rode it 50 miles today and it still feels the same as it always has.

First the rust issue. If your losing sleep about it then treat the inside of the frame with Framesaver not some plain ol oil as others have said, because any ol oil will not stick on the frame like Framesaver does, they'll just run off and pool in the bottom bracket area. There should be a drain hole in the bottom bracket if not you can drill your own making a 1/4 inch hole. I own a steel bike since 1984 and there is no rust anywhere...granted I lived in California, but Sheldon Brown owns a bike built in 1918 which he still commutes to work on and he's not the least bit worried about rust and he lives in Boston! Also the mid to higher end steel bikes are either coated with zinc (as cars are) or chrome plated to prevent rust then painted, mine is zinc coated.

Next thing about the frame life; steel and ti frames will last virtually forever. My 84 steel frame bike has over 140,000 miles on it and is still going strong; and who knows how many miles Sheldon Brown's 1918 ride has. Don't forget, the steel tubing used back in the early 1900's was nothing more than gas pipe!

My thanks for all the replies. I think the Framesaver route might be a good bet. The Surly is currently my only steed, and I commute with her daily. Will probably be left outside during the day, up in Humboldt California area (decent amount of rain). Within the next few years she'll hopefully be tackling New England winters too. My only concern left is the fact she'll probably be outside a fair portion of the day, in rain and snow, with not much but a lil' overhang to protect her. I guess intensive daily cleaning, combined with the Framesaver/paint chip touch up, should be enough. I'm not real keen about a bicycle I can't ride in most conditions. Just don't have the cash to dish out for overly specialized bicycles. Might try and pick up a used touring frame for a beater though.

Surleys may already come with internal protection, so its worth checking. I spray the inside of my commuter with WD-40, which seems to keep rust at bay without causing a build up of crud.
WD-40 will dissolve any Framesaver, so dont mix them.
I use a few coats of car wax on the outside of the frame. I also wax any exposed cables and bolts, and keep the threads and any metal-metal contacts lightly greased (or use copper anti-sieze)
One of my steel bikes lived outdoors all the time for 2 years, in a damp coastal town. There was no rust.
A good touring bike can last decades of regular use.

WD40 is too thin and runs off the surface of metal to be a reliable deterrent against rust. Framesaver is sticky and clings to the metal surface for the life of the bike providing long term rust protection.

One thing I forgot to mention in my previous post, is that I apply liberal amount of grease to the seat post before insertion to not only keep it from freezing up inside the frame but also the grease serves as a natural barrier against water. There is also a product from SnakeSkin that is design to wrap around the headset to prevent water from getting inside that area. If your bike is going to be left in the rain then take any precaution you can; and Framesaver, the Snakeskin product, and grease are all cheap insurance to buy.

a lot longer than aluminum

I'll quantify that comment... Steel, kept from rusting apart, will outlast Aluminum if you put LOTS of miles on the bike. Aluminum will eventually fail due to fatugue... However Aluminum will not "rust" extensivly therefore if your plan is not a bike that will last forever but one that will last say 5-7 years with around 2kmiles/year put on it... then possibly Aluminum... Otherwise if you are going to put 10K/year on your bike then your choices are steel or Ti (or carbon)...

My 1995 Trek 5200 OCLV Carbon has nearly 40,000 miles on it and still rides just like new. I recently upgraded all the components because I wore out the original Shimano Ultegra 600 cranks, derailleurs, cassette, etc... Now it has (mostly) Dura-Ace and is about 3 pounds lighter! I had to replace the wheels and hubs about two years ago... If you avoid very serious crashes (as with any frame material) I believe a high quality carbon frame will last just as long as steel or Ti - forever. If you wanted to rank materials in order of durability (knowing that all three can outlast the rider), Titanium would probably be the most durable. It doesn't rust or corrode, and usually there's no paint to worry about. As for aluminum, it's true that a hyper-light, extra-thin, super-stiff Al road racing frame does indeed have a limited lifespan, especially if involved in a crash. Remember the old Canondales with the downtube that was about as thin as an Aluminum can...? If Aluminum is over-built, however, such as in a cyclocross or mountain frame it can last quite a long time even if not treated well.
SAB

your steel frame will last you forever. and if it ever breaks, it can be fixed lickety split by any framebuilder.

as for the rust issue, if you're going to commute everyday, i suggest going the WD-40 route, and using wd-40 every day/every other day for the chain, inside the frame, etc... don't bother with lube. the wd-40 will get rid of all the water, gauranteed. framesaver inside the frame is good, but so is wd-40 regularly.

that said, it's just a matter of duration. wd-40 doesn't last, motor oil lasts longer, grease even longer, and frameserver longest. so just work accordingly; if you're using wd-40, apply often. grease, not as often. etc. i like the wd-40 route because u'll do it often and it'll clean ur bike.

sd

As far as how long a steel bike may last,I owned a Raleigh Gran Prix c.'71, and I built it into a commuter about 15years ago. This bike served me well with no problems. It spent its lifewith me without ever coming inside except for the two or three times a year I took it inside for a complete overhaul. except for the chain the rust was not a problem. Now I did cover any exposed metal with paint, sometimes even nail polish and a coat of wax, the bike remained solid and reliable for living outdoors and being riden most everyday in metro NYC.

your steel frame will last you forever. and if it ever breaks, it can be fixed lickety split by any framebuilder.

I have seen frames that were totally rusted out, and if it happens or not it's dependent on a whole lot of variables inluding proper care.And as for fixing,yeah but it may not be cost effective.

your steel frame will last you forever. and if it ever breaks, it can be fixed lickety split by any framebuilder.

This is one of the things I love about steel; if it does fail, it can usually be fixed up pretty quickly for a few bucks. :)

This is one of the things I love about steel; if it does fail, it can usually be fixed up pretty quickly for a few bucks. :)

as i discovered recently on my steel fork..bumped into a car in front of me, and they bent the fork back in A+ shape for $30. yummy.

sd