Bicycle Mechanics - Tube repeatedly bursting at valve stem

I have a 2007 Jamis Aurora with Alex ACE19 rims. I inflate my tires once a week to 110lbs (yes it is printed on the tire sidewall), but every few months the valve stem goes pop while I'm pumping or removing the pump from the stem. I have padded the stem hole in the rim with some duct tape with no success. It went pop again this morning and I had to walk to work. Does anyone have a solution to this problem?

Underinflation can cause the tire to slip on the rim and damage the valve stem. Fully inflate your tires before each ride.
Do you use a frame pump or a floor pump. The rocking motion of a frame pump can cause damage to the valve stem.

Al

If the valve hole is drilled for schraeder (car tire valves) and presta tubes are used without a rubber grommet, it could cause the tube to be resting against the sharp edge of the hole.

If the valve hole is drilled for schraeder (car tire valves) and presta tubes are used without a rubber grommet, it could cause the tube to be resting against the sharp edge of the hole.

Ditto. You can get small adapters called Presta Savers too.

Adam

I don't think the rims are schraeder, as the bike had presta valves when I bought it new. I think I might try a variation of the Presta Saver by making a rubber boot out of the old tube to slip over the stem of the new tube. My LBS also suggested sanding down the edge of the hole.

Thanks for the help everyone!

I don't think the rims are schraeder, as the bike had presta valves when I bought it new. I think I might try a variation of the Presta Saver by making a rubber boot out of the old tube to slip over the stem of the new tube. My LBS also suggested sanding down the edge of the hole.

Thanks for the help everyone!

There's no point covering it with any doodads. File it down.

Don't use a hand-pump, eh?

Don't use a hand-pump, eh?

That's what she said

Inspect the tube failure; is it a laceration or a rubber failure/split? See also this thread:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?605071-I-keep-getting-the-same-kind-of-flat-weird&highlight=

Like I posted there, are you stuffing your tubes both sides at once away from the valve? Or down one side and all the way around.
Proper: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXnTqP7Nd_o#t=2m11s

and max pressure isn't necessary unless you weigh >200lb or ride only very smooth pavements but that's a whole nother can o' worms.

Just in case it didn't make sense, if you're using a hand-pump to top-off your tyres to 110-psi, you deserve to get regular flats. Floor pumps only.

+ 1 to DannoXYZ... frame pumps and mini pumps should be kept for emergencies only, as regular use tends to cause the tube to fail around the valve. A basic floor pump (~$20) is 100X better.

I put the valve nut on the inside of the rim. You have to make sure it doesn't ge trapped under the bead, but I almost never get torn valve flats.

+ 1 to DannoXYZ... frame pumps and mini pumps should be kept for emergencies only, as regular use tends to cause the tube to fail around the valve. A basic floor pump (~$20) is 100X better.

Or get Topeak Road Morph.

Adam

I popped a new tube at the valve last Summer when I pumped it. I figured I just pressed the pump head on too har and tore the tube at the valve. Since you mentioned that the failure occurs when you attach or remove the pump, maybe this is the problem you're having, too.

+1 on putting a nut inside the rim as well as outside. old indian and motorcycle trick.

+1 on putting a nut inside the rim as well as outside. old indian and motorcycle trick.

The Indians had Presta tubes? And here I thought they only had Schraeders...

Take a 1-1/2 inch length of Velox rim tape or adhesive cloth handlebar tape, trimmed appropriately for rim width. Put a small nail hole in the middle of the 1-1/2 inch tape. Lift your existing rim tape/rim strip and put the 1-1/2 inch "hole buffer" strip over the valve hole with the nail hole centered over the valve hole and replace your rim tape/rim strip back over the top. When you press the presta stem down through the new hole buffer, the cloth tape will insulate the rubber/valve interface from any sharp edges, but you might as well inspect the hole while you're in there, before you apply the new tape. If you don't have an appropriate file, you can probably just run an appropriately sized Phillips head screw driver up and down the hole to take of any burrs or rough edges.

+1 on putting a nut inside the rim as well as outside. old indian and motorcycle trick.

I used to do this with mostly favorable results, but had some extreme cold weather failures with this method. The extra cloth tape "hole buffer" method has worked better for me in the winter. I also don't tighten down my outside nut too much in the winter.

I used to do this with mostly favorable results, but had some extreme cold weather failures with this method. The extra cloth tape "hole buffer" method has worked better for me in the winter. I also don't tighten down my outside nut too much in the winter.

The outside valve nut is 100% useless.

the michelin 700x28 city tires ands tubes i ordered recently have no threads at all on the stem. maybe i have around 100 + plus miles on them with no problem. the last few weeks the temps have been in the mid 20 f range, lots of sand and salt about on the roads from some snow events. i run a 7 mile loop when ever i can get out. not many miles but all seems good. i use a floor pump once a week for 90 psi, tires are rated at 87.

The Indians had Presta tubes? And here I thought they only had Schraeders...
maybe you are right. perhaps that is why the indians never had problems with valves pulling out.

Gee and all this time using only a frame pump and no flats and no nuts.... Sounds like a bunch of user excuses...

Gee and all this time using only a frame pump and no flats and no nuts.... Sounds like a bunch of user excuses...

+1
I think I went from 1974 to 1996 using a Silca Impero frame pump with metal Campy head as my only pump.

Michelin Airstop tubes aren't threaded, so the pump head pulls off easily. That's less strain on the tube.
http://www.wheelbuilder.com/store/images/D/michelin_airstop_tube_detail.jpg

I've used exclusively frame pumps for the past 15 years without problems until this year. I have a 700c wheel that I've used with no issues for 4 years, then this year I got torn valves all the time when trying to pump to 120psi. I finally decided to buy a floor pump a couple of months ago and have had no issues since.

With presta tubes and when the pressure is quite high, and if you top off with a hand or mini pump a lot of strain is placed on the stem. In time it will just break off. By all means use a floor pump at home, and be very careful not to flex the stem sideways. On the road if I get a flat I use an inflator with the high pressure cartridges. I do carry a mini pump as backup. But have had to walk home at least once since two mini pumps broke or failed.

+1
I think I went from 1974 to 1996 using a Silca Impero frame pump with metal Campy head as my only pump.
Well, it's rare that you encountre people who can use a hand-pump without causing damage to the tube. But it's kinda like Larry Bird saying, "I think basketball's easy, why does everyone have such a hard time becoming a top pro?". By far, the vast majority of beginners trying to pump up a tyre to 100psi+ is gonna have problems.

One of the tricks is to use one arm only and keep the one holding the pump-head steady. The other is to grab a spoke next to the stem along with the pump-head and lock your fingers against the pump-head & spoke to keep the stem from moving. It's simply easier to use a floor-pump.

I had this problem this summer. Started for apparently no reason. Doubled up on rim tape and also cut a 1" section of old tube with an X in the middle of it and placed it inside the tire around the stem before inflating. Haven't had any problems since.

I also had this problem over the past summer. One was due to someone (me) tighening that nut over the valve on the outside too tight, one was probably due to a tube that was getting old, but the 3rd one, I have no idea. I only use a floor pump and don't horse the valve around at all. If it happens any more, I'll have to try what jkmartin did and make a little part from an old tube with an X in it.

I've ripped out a stem once, and I watched someone do it two successive times - someone who was very inexperienced. With her third and final tube she let me inflate it and I was successful. I think it was due to user error in both cases. You may have an equipment problem - burr on rim, wrong-sized hole. But just in case, here's what I do to prevent my own actions from ripping the stem:


When I use a floor pump I rotate the wheel so the weight of the pump tube is hanging from the stem. I think the weight of the hose of the pump on the stem tends to pull it sideways. I like the stem between my seat stays and downtube - very close to the seat stays. This allows the pump tube to hang, and makes it easy for me to remove the pump quickly without losing much air. On the front wheel I put it in about the same position, though there are no stays to use as guides or get in the way, obviously.
When I used to use my Zefal HpX I would be very diligent in taking all the side to side force with my hand - not letting the pump nozzle move the stem. Now I have a Topeak Road Morph. It's very similar to a floor pump, except the hose is not long enough to allow me to position the stem up high. But also, the pump hose and nozzle are so light that there isn't much stress on the tube stem.


I've learned not to be in a hurry when I fix a flat by the side of the road. When I've tried to get it done too fast I've left things in the tire that caused the flat, leading to a second flat. I've pumped the tire up with the tube improperly seated, and one time I left a spoke wrench by the side of the road because it had fallen out and I didn't take the time to carefully check the area before I rode away. Now I relax and act like I've got all day (which I usually do) and haven't had any problems in a long while.

Serenity now.