Road Cycling - Pedal Question

Ok, what is being referred to when the discription of pedals talks about "degrees of float"? What is "float"?

And, what should I be looking for in a clipless pedal?

I have been using toe clips with good athletic shoes for years. Finally thought I would upgrade. LOL

Just got myself a pair of shoes, and now looking for some clipless pedals for a decent price in the $40 range, give or take a few bucks.

Patriot

Float is how much the pedal will allow your foot to rotate (left and right) while clipped in. This is a must for people with knee problems (and for a lot without) since improper alignment from the foot on up can cause lots of pain.

What you should be looking for in a clipless pedal will vary depending on your level of involvement as a cyclist. I am a newbie with bad knees (cycling doesnt bother them at all...but an improperly adjusted pedal will), so I chose a pedal with decent float. I also wanted a larger platform because it is a bonus for solid power transfer to the pedals. I bought some Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL's and am very pleased. They are pretty light, and I got a smokin' deal from my bike shop too.




One other thing..your pedal choice is now limited to your shoe. Look at the bottom and see if it has a 2 or 3 bolt pattern. If it is only two, you cant get the Ultegras.

Hope this helps a little.

Is it the pedal or the cleat that determines float?

My toes naturally point slightly outward, not straightforward and parallel like my shoes want to position them. I noticed a bit of discomfort on one longer ride, and on another ride I realized the creaking in my pedals (which were very well lubed) occurred when my foot assumed its preferred outward-point position, and subsided when I returned to parallel.

I figure I could use some more float, and not sure whether to upgrade cleats or pedals. I have Shimano M505 and Sidi shoes.

Thanks.

Certain pedals have adjustable float. My pedals (Ultegra SPD-SL's) have two different cleat options, one that provides 6 degrees of float and one that provides zero float. Research the pedals before you buy them to figure out if they'll give you what you want. I personally feel that 6 degrees of float feels perfect. Not too much, not too little. With my cleats adjusted properly, I don't feel any pain from my knees.


Is it the pedal or the cleat that determines float?

My toes naturally point slightly outward, not straightforward and parallel like my shoes want to position them. I noticed a bit of discomfort on one longer ride, and on another ride I realized the creaking in my pedals (which were very well lubed) occurred when my foot assumed its preferred outward-point position, and subsided when I returned to parallel.

I figure I could use some more float, and not sure whether to upgrade cleats or pedals. I have Shimano M505 and Sidi shoes.

Thanks.

Ok, what is being referred to when the discription of pedals talks about "degrees of float"? What is "float"?

And, what should I be looking for in a clipless pedal?

I have been using toe clips with good athletic shoes for years. Finally thought I would upgrade. LOL

Just got myself a pair of shoes, and now looking for some clipless pedals for a decent price in the $40 range, give or take a few bucks.

Patriot

You have options for pedals - although they may cost a bit more than $40. To get to more options, you might have to spend $60-$80, but there are deals out there as well.

As the other poster stated, your shoes may determine your options, but most shoes are made to allow most pedals so in that way you are likely OK.

My personal choice (and it is just that) are Time pedals - mostly because they allow for the most float and they are easy to clip in/out of. I have the ATAK Alum mountain bike pedals on my road bike because a seasoned cyclist recommend them to me & he was correct. I like them because they are double sided, so you can clip in on either side & the platform of the pedal is larger than many road pedals. I like SPD shoes and they work with most brands of pedals. Ask your LBS for help.

Good luck with your choice.

Towlie-

You need to readjust your cleats so that they are centered in the pedal when your toes are in their natural orientation. The squeaking you hear when that happens now is the pedal starting to engage its pre-realease mode, and if you were to hit a good bump at just the right moment, the pedal might release.

Towlie-

You need to readjust your cleats so that they are centered in the pedal when your toes are in their natural orientation. The squeaking you hear when that happens now is the pedal starting to engage its pre-realease mode, and if you were to hit a good bump at just the right moment, the pedal might release.

You mean rotationally or laterally adjust them? I.e. clockwise/counterclockwise or left/right? Cause the shoe seems pretty strongly geared toward only fore/aft and left/right positioning. Any rotational adjustment would appear to be rigging or taking advantage of whatever tolerance is in the parallel screw slots in the shoe?

You are thinking way too complicated. What he is saying is that you should adjust the cleat so it is engaging into the pedal completely paralell to to your top tube/chain (etc.), but you can do that while rotating it on the bottom of your shoe. That way your foot can point whichever direcection is most comfortable without being the brink of disengaging the cleat.

You are thinking way too complicated. What he is saying is that you should adjust the cleat so it is engaging into the pedal completely paralell to to your top tube/chain (etc.), but you can do that while rotating it on the bottom of your shoe. That way your foot can point whichever direcection is most comfortable without being the brink of disengaging the cleat.

Fine, but do you understand my point, that the shoes don't allow for rotational adjustment of cleats, except for what the tolerances (call it "slop") allow in the mouting slots. They only allow for fore/aft L/R adjustment.

Maybe the slop is all I need though - don't need a drastic 45-degree cleat positioning...(?)

Exactly, the slop will give you enough rotational adjustment to correct a slightly misaligned foot. My left foot isn't quite straight (as evidenced by wear patterns on every pair of shoes I own) so I had to accomodate for it with my cleats so that my foot (and knee) felt comfortable. A little twist (maybe 3 degrees max) did it.


Fine, but do you understand my point, that the shoes don't allow for rotational adjustment of cleats, except for what the tolerances (call it "slop") allow in the mouting slots. They only allow for fore/aft L/R adjustment.

Maybe the slop is all I need though - don't need a drastic 45-degree cleat positioning...(?)