Classic & Vintage - Sturmey-Archer axle spacer options?

What do people use for axle spacers when re-spacing a S-A hub (which has an over-locknut dimension of 110 mm) to fit a frame with dropouts spaced at 120? It seems to me that the easiest and cleanest solution would be to add a 5 mm spacer to each side, bringing the hub spacing to 120 without a need to dish the wheel.
That's what I'd intended to do, but as far as I can tell the only spacers sized for the S-A axle are 1/8 thick, or about 3.2 mm. One on each side isn't enough. Two on each side is too much. Two on one side and one on the other is just about right, but that requires dishing the wheel a bit. I don't mind doing that, but it would seem to be unnecessary if you could put matching spacers on each side.
My plan was to drill out a pair of standard 5 mm aluminum spacers so they would fit the S-A axle, but I've just demonstrated to that doing so isn't as easy as one would think, at least not with an electric drill and a 27/67 bit.
Any ideas? If I could find a couple of 1.5 mm spacers I'd be all set. Does anyone know if they're available?
By the way, I do know that mount the flatted axle in conventional dropouts requires special washers to prevent it from rotating, and I have a set.

I machine my own spacers, but only because I have access to a lathe. Just did a pair to fit a 90mm OLD hub to fit a modern fork. However, most folks don't have access to machine tools, so the next best thing is Mcmaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com. I get my spoke washers from them because it's not worth my sanity to machine thirty six #2 brass washers at a time.

There is a variety of spacers and nuts that can be used as spacers available here:

http://smartbikeparts.com/search.php?letter=S&cat=Washers&man=Sturmey-Archer

If you measure carefully, you can come up with a combination the gives you the correct OLD and centers your hub.

There is a variety of spacers and nuts that can be used as spacers available here:

http://smartbikeparts.com/search.php?letter=S&cat=Washers&man=Sturmey-Archer

If you measure carefully, you can come up with a combination the gives you the correct OLD and centers your hub.

Thanks! I love this forum.
I do find it kind of discouraging to pay $9 shipping on $5 worth of parts, but sometimes that's the way it goes...

Jon, I don't know if you're including in that equation those anti-rotation washer placed on the *inside* of the dropouts. That's one way I've taken up space on a 120mm dropout with an SA hub.

Neal

Jon, I don't know if you're including in that equation those anti-rotation washer placed on the *inside* of the dropouts. That's one way I've taken up space on a 120mm dropout with an SA hub.

Neal

Good idea, thanks.

There is always the 'cold-set' option.

Jon, I don't know if you're including in that equation those anti-rotation washer placed on the *inside* of the dropouts. That's one way I've taken up space on a 120mm dropout with an SA hub.

Neal

Neal, I just measured--the anti-rotation washers are a bit thicker than 2 mm. So the 3.2 steel S-A washer (I bought a pair of them at Harris yesterday) plus say 2.2 for the anti rotation washer = about 5.4 mm per side overall. Add that to the original 110 and you're just about right--120.8 is a bit strong but close enough.
Plus--this is kind of obvious, but I didn't think of it until I read your post--the anti-rotation washers really belong on the inside anyway, at least in this case. That's because the Dawes project I'm working on makes use of a bolt-on derailleur hanger. Since the axle slot in the hanger is a little wider than the axle slot in the dropout, putting the anti-rotation on the outside would do no good on the drive side, since it wouldn't bite into the hanger. Putting it on the inside lets it engage the dropout directly, rather than fitting loosely into the derailleur hanger.