Bicycle Mechanics - Drop out spread is 125mm

I want to upgrade my components on an older (vintage?) Magneet Sprint de Luxe. It is a 10 speed.
Rear spacing is 125 mm. Will a new wheel fit with 6, 7, or 8 sprocket cassete?

It is 1mm to skinny to meet spec. (Should be 126mm) :) No big deal, to go to 7 or 8 (or even 9), carefully spread your stays to 130mm and they will all fit. You can also just shove the wider wheel in there but it is much easier to spread the frame once and make sure it is centered, a good shop will have the tools to do it right. You can also lay it on the floor, put your foot on the lower stay and pull the other out (Be careful, to little is better than to much) Then use a known 130mm hub to check width. This method might get the centering off a little but works OK.

It is 1mm to skinny to meet spec. (Should be 126mm) :) No big deal, to go to 7 or 8 (or even 9), carefully spread your stays to 130mm and they will all fit. You can also just shove the wider wheel in there but it is much easier to spread the frame once and make sure it is centered, a good shop will have the tools to do it right. You can also lay it on the floor, put your foot on the lower stay and pull the other out (Be careful, to little is better than to much) Then use a known 130mm hub to check width. This method might get the centering off a little but works OK.
Don't do this if the stays are aluminum or CF.

Rear triangles can be spread with some difficulty on steel frames and easily on
Ti frames, but as Sydney says, Al frames won't spread (it will be extremely
difficult) and you run the risk of frame fracture. Carbon frames essentially
do not exist in 5 speed size, and if found will be glue up tubing into cast BB
and tube shells. The glue joint would be at risk, but carbon forks bend more
than this thousands of times in the course of a road ride and do quite well.
My PX 10 steel requires a foot to assist in spreading the frame to mount the
rear wheel. My Teledyne Titan CP Ti frame can be sprung with only a little
more pressure than mounting a rear wheel on the two 130mm frames I have.
Steve

I should have clarified but this is a Magneet, trust me, its steel. http://home.hetnet.nl/~magneet-rijwielen/index.html

Hmm, strange, my old Raleigh has about 128mm spacing, but some bike shop guy may have bent it years ago when I went to 7 speed clusters.

Thanks Rev.
I wasn't sure if manually spreading the stays would be common practice. Steel, should be ok. A wood block cut so fiber is parallel with frame and then wedge it in to mount wheel would work too. (end grain could be too harsh on paint)

What else do you know about Magneet? The site you linked is the only one available thru search engines. Some of it is in English. I ahve never seen a picture, photo or otherwise, of a modern road bike from them. Someone collects emblems and has one similiar to mine but not the same. Theirs was probably from a moped.

I'm using a 9sp on two old steel frames, and I have to spread slightly on one where the wheel slips right in, and a little more on the other, where I do have to use a little force. I'm not sure what the spacing is on either, but my guess is they were built to 126, even if the wider one isn't to spec. It hasn't caused any problems.

sorry to resurrect an ancient thread, but I'm wanting to put a shimano compatible 10 speed hub in a 125mm spaced frame. It sounds like I'm just going to have to respace (it's tange 2 steel, so that's definitely a possibility) but I was hoping to hear that someone makes a compatible hub narrow enough.

no such luck?

All 8/9/10 speed road hubs are 130mm.

OK, well that's kinda what I figured. I was just hoping to hear about some company like "Jtek" or "problem solvers" that made a hub for this set up. I guess that extra half centimeter is needed for the extra gears.

Its really easy, look on Sheldons site, he has pictures on how to do it.
Just did mine and it took 10 minutes and a 2"x4",,,went to 130 and a real 10 sp Hub.
Bud

Its really easy, look on Sheldons site, he has pictures on how to do it.
Just did mine and it took 10 minutes and a 2"x4",,,went to 130 and a real 10 sp Hub.
Bud
yeah, I've seen that article. it's good, and I think one of my LBS probably even has the "proper" tools to do it, I know they have the tools for checking frame alignment.

you know, was just hoping for a hub that would fit, but respacing is fine too.

Hmm, strange, my old Raleigh has about 128mm spacing, but some bike shop guy may have bent it years ago when I went to 7 speed clusters.

not that strange. for a period of time in the 1980s when rear spacing was transforming to the new 130 standard from 126 some manufacturers used 128 so as to be able to fit both 126 and 130 components. at least this is what i have read. might have been on sheldon's website.

i know people that have 128 spacing and regularly use 130 components without a problem by just spreading when inserting the wheel. rear dropouts might be off alaignment by 1mm is all. no big deal. there is that much side to side play with a steel frame.

I want to put a 130 rear hub in a frame that is spaced for 125 rear drop out.

I have read the <a href ="http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html"> sheold brown article on frame spacing.</a> His article states that under 10mm there is no need to cold space it.

I can now fit the wheel in the frame while just spreading it by hand.

Do you all see any reason why I should cold spread it, or should I just spread it by hand to get the wheel in each time?

I think I will check the fork end alignment with his string method.

Any suggestions????? Has anybody had a axle break by doing this?