Fifty Plus (50+) - Dawes 1000 road bike

Thinking of buying this bike. It seems to offer all the features I would like at the price I can afford. 2009 Dawes 1000 Road Bike 24 speed
Any feedback, suggestions?
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm185/ematerso/dawes1000.jpg

It's a typical low end cyclocross bike.
Are you planning on riding off-road only or will you use it as a road bike?

What is it that causes you to hesitate?

It is road bike as it doesnt have cantilever brakes for mud clearance. The thumb buttons for shifting to smaller rings/cogs cant be operated from the drops, so this bike isnt suitable for riding fast in a close pack of riders, but they operate easily from the hoods. That is a good moneys worth if you can do the assembly and adjustment. You may find you need to change out the brake pads for Cool-stop ones. Buy a floor pump so you can put 100 psi in the tires without exhausting yourself.

It is road bike as it doesnt have cantilever brakes for mud clearance. The thumb buttons for shifting to smaller rings/cogs cant be operated from the drops, so this bike isnt suitable for riding fast in a close pack of riders, but they operate easily from the hoods. That is a good moneys worth if you can do the assembly and adjustment. You may find you need to change out the brake pads for Cool-stop ones. Buy a floor pump so you can put 100 psi in the tires without exhausting yourself.
Have done enough of my own maintenance not to be deterred by assembly and adjustment. Doubt if I will be going fast in a close pack and actually prefer using the hoods most of the time. Already have a good floor pump.

Spec is a bit lower than the starter bike that I had but it did get me riding. Presume it is a bikes direct bike so make certain you get the right size. Only problem may be the wheels if you are a bit weighty. Just be prepared for N+1 as it may come a bit soon.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/lt1000.htm

What is it that causes you to hesitate?
Trying to convince myself that I should have it. (Already have three bikes).

Spec is a bit lower than the starter bike that I had but it did get me riding. Presume it is a bikes direct bike so make certain you get the right size. Only problem may be the wheels if you are a bit weighty. Just be prepared for N+1 as it may come a bit soon.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/lt1000.htm
Do have some concerns about the size. I am 5 ft. 11.5 inches tall and the barefoot to crotch measurement is 31.5 inches as near as I can figure.
Also my FujiS10S seems to have a top tube that is a bit too long for a comfortable hands-on-hoods, slightly bent elbow reach. They are saying 32.5 standover for someone my height so I am a little confused. My weight is 180 lbs. Don't know what N+1 is?

Don't know what N+1 is?

N = number of bikes that you have. It is a reference to always wanting one more bike.

N = number of bikes that you have. It is a reference to always wanting one more bike.
Oh, thanks. Yes, it is a curious thing. Keep telling my wife I will sell my others but the fact is there are good reasons not to. The Centurion I rode to work for a number of years; the Fuji looks so nice and solid and shiny after a bit of work and the Schwinn hybrid is the new bike I bought in the spring which at that time seemed like a marriage that would last forever. At least I am not dealing in large expenditures but there is the problem of where to keep them.

In fact lately I have been reminiscing about the Fiorelli 10 speed I bought in Manhattan years ago before I was married. Remember it being a beautiful shiny yellowish green and the derailleur as being something new and mystical to me. Must have been in the '60s.

This is a seriously entry-level bike. The shifters and derailers are the bottom of the Shimano line (a step below even Sora). As you have 3 other bikes, what is it you are trying to do with this bike?

With the exception of some of the drive train components, this bike looks exactly like my Fuji Newest including the curved seat stays, bosses for rear rack mounts, sloping top tube, rake of the fork, and adjustable stem. Mine has Shimano Sora components. 8,500 miles on Ol' Fuj, no problems, and still rolling just fine. I have worn out two chains and some tires. Looks fine to me.

Save up and buy a better CX bike.

This is a seriously entry-level bike. The shifters and derailers are the bottom of the Shimano line (a step below even Sora). As you have 3 other bikes, what is it you are trying to do with this bike?
Need to be better informed as to the newer shift mechanisms. What is the difference between Sora and Tegra (sp)? I know from a visit to a local bike shop that the better bikes have indexed shifting which requires only one lever on each grip whereas the cheaper ones have a smaller lever for down shifting which prevents using same when ones hand are on the drops.
Your question as to use: would like a road bike that is not too extreme (more comfortable position) but useful for long distance cycling in a non competitive manner. Also, I really do not care for the non-indexed shifters on the down tube now that I have discovered how nice it is to use the indexed twist shifters on my Schwinn. Want to be able to shift often and with less effort. Another reason the road bike would appeal to me is because I have discovered my Fuji to be faster than my Schwinn with less effort to pedal. (weighs 38 lbs)

It is not a cyclocross bike. (OP knows this. Others seem confused.)

In order of quality and expense the ranking of Shimano components (Best to Worst) is:

Dura Ace
Ultegra
105
Tiagra
Sora
Yours ...

It looks like a decent starter road bike but a little better set of components would sure be nice. If you really ride it a lot, lust for something nicer will soon come your way (N+1 syndrome).
(All of these shifter types are indexed, meaning one tap of the shifter finds the next gear up or down... you don't have to "find" the gear by moving a lever an exact distance.)

In order of quality and expense the ranking of Shimano components (Best to Worst) is:

Dura Ace
Ultegra
105
Tiagra
Sora
Yours ...


That's the information I needed. So they are all Shimano components. Seems like Tiagra would be something to strive for. Is that the first one that you can access from all bar positions?

That's the information I needed. So they are all Shimano components. Seems like Tiagra would be something to strive for. Is that the first one that you can access from all bar positions?

Yes. Tiagra is the lowest level that has the smaller lever behind the brake lever for shifting to smaller rings/cogs rather than the side button. A good component group imho. I can't remember if Tiagra is now 9 speed or 10 speed.

Your question as to use: would like a road bike that is not too extreme (more comfortable position) but useful for long distance cycling in a non competitive manner. Also, I really do not care for the non-indexed shifters on the down tube now that I have discovered how nice it is to use the indexed twist shifters on my Schwinn. Want to be able to shift often and with less effort. Another reason the road bike would appeal to me is because I have discovered my Fuji to be faster than my Schwinn with less effort to pedal. (weighs 38 lbs)
Then I'd definately look for something a bit further up the line.

I returned to road cycling a couple of years ago on a '77 Schwinn Le Tour (heavy old bike a friend had dug out of the dumpster). Much more suited to the riding I was doing than my old MTB but only whet my appetite for a new road bike.

Bought a new Schwinn Le Tour GS (Sora/Tiagra mix) a few months later and really enjoyed it. Then I bought my wife a mid-level road bike (Ultegra equipped) and it didn't take long to realize I was ready to upgrade, again. After 6 months, my "new" road bike became my commuter and I bought an Ultegra-equipped road bike for myself. I ride both bikes weekly and there is a huge difference between the two.

Save your pennies and keep an eye out for deals (I bought my wife's and my bikes as leftovers and saved about 50% off retail from my LBS). I really think it will save you money in the long run.

Appreciate all the knowledgeable advice you all have been offering. Makes good sense.

One thing that keeps me looking at the Dawes 1000 is the adjustable stem (apart from the low price). My present road bike the Fuji S10S has a top tube length similar to most of the bikes I am looking at and without any way of getting the handle bars closer to the seat I can't achieve a body position that allows me to ride comfortably with my hands on the hoods. Realistically that is the position I am most likely to use rather than a low aerodynamic posture.

Appreciate all the knowledgeable advice you all have been offering. Makes good sense.

One thing that keeps me looking at the Dawes 1000 is the adjustable stem (apart from the low price). My present road bike the Fuji S10S has a top tube length similar to most of the bikes I am looking at and without any way of getting the handle bars closer to the seat I can't achieve a body position that allows me to ride comfortably with my hands on the hoods. Realistically that is the position I am most likely to use rather than a low aerodynamic posture.

Adjustable stems are not all the expensive should you find you need one. Additionally, if you buy from a local shop, you should be able to get them to help you dial in the fit you need for comfort. Many reputable shops will swap out parts on a new bike at no additional charge.

Adjustable stems are OK for figuring out what stem length and angle you need, but whatever setting you settle on, there is a rigid stem that will duplicate it. At any rate, parts is parts. You are not limited to what comes on the bike originally. If you want an adjustable stem, you can put one on any bike you choose to buy.