Classic & Vintage - FRAME PAINTING ...DIY Lessons for rattlecan success!

AS I was was spraying just now, I had to stop & make this quick post...:p

If you really are up for the challenge of repainting a frame, a GREAT way to get a COMPLETE understanding of the tasks ahead, do this....



Go to Toys-R-Us & buy an ESTES model rocket!! :D

Build it & paint it, and you'll be far wiser, young padiwon!:thumb:


Truly,
..you have tubing as a substrate, complex intersections, fine detail, various materials; both of build AND finishing, as well as those brutal water-slide decals! ;)

You'll learn to be..:rolleyes:..um..patient!:o

If you paint too soon..(clouding); paint a little too late...(wrinkling); too much paint...(runs); too little...(dusty); a little too little....(orange peal); didn't press the edge of the tape down well...(tape bleed); sanded through layer...(bleed through;shows when painted over with light colors); clear when it's cold...(clouding); clear when it's really cold...(solvent popping; champagen bubbles through-out the clear):cry:

You get the idea.:innocent:

But then you clear-coat it and GO!

Launch or ride, they're both fun!;)

plus, rockets are small, and will leave you equipped with some leftover paint for when you decide you really want to spray a frame! :roflmao2:

Good luck with that!

now back to the booth...flash time is up.

Sounds familiar.. :cry: :crash:

I just got done spray painting the driveshaft and rear pumpkin on my 67 Thunderbird that I'm restoring. I used that automotive paint from Oreilly's that's like $7 a can. Sanded them down, put on 1 coat(no primer or clearcoat) and 4 days later I put the driveshaft on. Did all this in just above freezing weather. You can't even scratch it with a fingernail. I plan on doing several bikes this way come spring. Sure it may not be quite as durable as factory, but it's still more durable than what most people think. If you can get your bike powder coated for $7 then by all means do so. Until then I suggest using that automotive paint instead. Your color choices are somewhat limited though. I recommend the aluminum color as it looks similar to something you'd see on a 70s era bike.

Jenny can + automotive paint = factory champagne-quality finish on a beer budget

I thought the secret was Low Expectations.

Not necessarily?,,,,BD

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/SHOGUN1.jpg

Jenny can + automotive paint = factory champagne-quality finish on a beer budget

What's a "Jenny Can"?

Also, is there a difference between brands of rattle can paint? Recommendations?

L

That may be another name for those bottles with the aerosol cannisters that screw on the top. Just pure speculation on my part?,,,,BD

A Jenny Can is a DIY spray paint can. You fill it with whatever paint you'd like, pressure it and spray. When done, clean it out a store it for next time. It's about the size of a rattle can. It looks like a SIGG water/fuel bottle, if you know what they look like.

Ahhh, yeah I forgot about the ones you can pressurize yourself. I may try to pick ine of those up.,,,,BD

http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/5968/2471954960068014369S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2471954960068014369CvjzSP)
http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/2875/2734971090068014369S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2734971090068014369QlnpEB)

I'm waiting until spring to paint the frame. It's too cold now.

You don't want lacquer. It's brittle and doesn't hold up on a bike. Most Dupli Color paints are lacquer. Read the lable.

The clearcoat can be used over decals.

All good points.

My success tips
- PREP, PREP and more PREP
- Warm the rattle can by placing in hot/warm water- helps it flow.
- Spray hard to reach spots first.

Sounds familiar.. :cry: :crash:

And whilst I was aposting.............:rolleyes:



http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2783/4257095713_1cbe426235_m.jpg


So I'll go with the grey polka dots and keep moving forward. :p

Thank you for the suggestion, Dr. Deltron. I have never painted a bike frame, but I have assembled and painted a few Estes rockets before -- got the bug when I was a Cub Scout den leader. Thank you for pointing out that painting a frame is no more difficult (or easy) than painting a model rocket. Now the task seems less daunting.

Now the task seems less daunting.

OH GOOD!!!:D

And here are the results, foibles and all!!...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2781/4404451290_dc7927d2e7.jpg

and the other one....
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2727/4404452058_5b66424f66_m.jpg

Rustoleum primer, orange, metallic blue, and clear; ultrafine white paint pen for the lug linings, new decals from JR Restore. It looks really good up close too.

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz248/earoehl/Holdsworth-overcast-50.jpg

im painting an old aluminum frame, and while its not as difficult as i expected, patience is KEY... today ill be finishing my tape work (tape all the lugs and chromed parts), then prime with a great professional primer (self etching primer) then paint with a bottle of car paint, then Urethane...

a friend told me about a place were you can buy car paint, after they mix it you can have it in a spray can, they also mix urethane in spray!! this is going to rock!

tape 2.50
blades 1.50
primer was 8.00
paint 18.00
urethane 14.00
total 44.00

wish me luck, ill post pics of the project.

If you dont prime the surface your paint work wont last long...

Rustoleum primer, orange, metallic blue, and clear; ultrafine white paint pen for the lug linings, new decals from JR Restore. It looks really good up close too.


SCED - How did you handle the blue color bars over the orange - is there a step at the edges where you can feel the additional layer? Does the clear coat and sanding even that out?

SCED - How did you handle the blue color bars over the orange - is there a step at the edges where you can feel the additional layer? Does the clear coat and sanding even that out?

I masked the panels, painted the orange, then masked the orange and painted the blue. I did a little sanding where the orange meets the blue, and elsewhere to tidy up. I then mounted the decals and cleared the whole frame sans openings. There are little world champion stripe decals supplied by JR Restore where the orange meets the blue. Like on the bike originally, the decals are raised a bit but I didn't want to put the requisite coats of clear on to "bury" them. I've had the bike since new (1973) and have repainted it 4x. I used 2 layers of clear contact paper, which has a slightly matte finish, to protect the right chain stay.

- is there a step at the edges where you can feel the additional layer?

I would say yes, most likely. Even if you use base coat, it still makes a "step".


Does the clear coat and sanding even that out?

You have to build up a few coats, then sand, then reclear.

I had to do that twice to get the foil decals smooth on this Frejus.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2515/4078687707_eccfe68865.jpg

I have a lot to learn. You guys are good!

Yes, hobbies makes you solve problems, and elevate your digital(as in fingers) dexterity. I hang a lot of wallpaper in my painting business and after delving into model railroading during the winter months, I notice the quality of my paper hanging improves. Also my ability to paint straight lines is better after modeling and painting HO scale models. It all relates in the end.

Dang, you guys are really good. Now all we need is personal sand/media blasters to get them really clean. :)

IMO the issue is less the cost and availability and more the mess they make. You can get a air compressor powered Media Blaster for under 50 bux.

Hmmm....crap. You guys are making want to paint my alloy frame rather than powder it.
Alloy needs a self etching primer, right?

Have any of you painted a frame with a Preval (http://www.prevalspraygun.com/) sprayer? I've used them for other stuff; what I like about them is there's a lot less overspray than with an aerosol can. And of course you can put any color you like in it.

How long do you let a rattlecan-ed frame sit before building it up?

Have any of you painted a frame with a Preval (http://www.prevalspraygun.com/) sprayer? I've used them for other stuff; what I like about them is there's a lot less overspray than with an aerosol can. And of course you can put any color you like in it.

"*DO NOT USE WITH GASOLINE OR OTHER HIGHLY COMBUSTIBLE LIQUIDS."

Sounds like they may have crossed that bridge? :)

... more the mess they make. You can get a air compressor powered Media Blaster for under 50 bux.
That would be a siphon feed, and they DON'T work worth a Shimano.
You need a pressured media blaster, ...and a pit to work in.;)
This blaster is $89 at Harbor Freight. #60 mesh sand is $9 for 100 lbs.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3138/3004715606_3e00f861c2.jpg

Dr.D
Beautiful job on the Frejus. The white looks like real ivory. The paint has a lot of depth without looking" plasticky" (sp?)

Alloy needs a self etching primer, right?

Some will say YES, but I have simply used PPG's DPLF sealer in the appropriate color.

In this case I had to do some media blasting before applying the DPLF.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2444/3579524847_3fe5c4c64d_m.jpg
After the first coat (done immediately after blasting), I use special Bondo to fill the pits left by blasting.
Sand it smooth and seal one last time.
Then color & clear.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3591/3586063333_1e92fbdb2d_m.jpg

TaDa! No more nasties!:D

Hey, I recognize that frame! But not the huge great pits in the "before" pic. Wow.

Corey K

You really hit the right advice again. I've painted a few frames and all my experience prior had been with model cars as a kid. It's the same process, a butt-load of patience, rub downs between coats with steel wool and tack cloths will get you there. The only thing I have found is that solid gloss colors are much more durable than metallics. They're still not as durable as epoxy or powdercoat, but when you have a nick or scratch, it's easy to match and fix.

Some will say YES, but I have simply used PPG's DPLF sealer in the appropriate color.

In this case I had to do some media blasting before applying the DPLF.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2444/3579524847_3fe5c4c64d_m.jpg
After the first coat (done immediately after blasting), I use special Bondo to fill the pits left by blasting.
Sand it smooth and seal one last time.
Then color & clear.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3591/3586063333_1e92fbdb2d_m.jpg

TaDa! No more nasties!:D

Really nice job. So, you're saying it isn't necessary to use special etching AL primer?

Some awesome work on those frames..!

I've just finished spraying my first frame, a mixte for my girl and was hoping for some tips.?

(Frame stripped. Brake, gear, stand mounts angled grind off. 4 coats primer and filler applied, sanded in between with various grades wet/dry 320 - 2000. 4 coats metallic green, sanded only after 2nd coat).
I'm quite happy with the main colour, it's come out nice and bright, no run marks and glassy to touch even without the clear coat which is to come.
My question is, what's your technique in masking off certain parts to paint a different colour? I'm wanting to paint the head tube white and 2 white panels on the seat tube either side of the downtube.
I've found masking off the lugs a little tricky. I've used painters masking tape and a razor blade to cut out the parts to be painted but was hoping where I've run the blade across would be a little smoother.
Check the pics.
How do you guys go about this? Is there a better way, or is it just a steady hand?
I'm aiming to get it looking something close to the red/white headtube pic attached
Thanks

That would be a siphon feed, and they DON'T work worth a Shimano.
You need a pressured media blaster, ...and a pit to work in.;)
This blaster is $89 at Harbor Freight. #60 mesh sand is $9 for 100 lbs.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3138/3004715606_3e00f861c2.jpg

What size compressor are you using,I have a 80 gal true 5hp w/magnetic start commercial single stage compressor in my shop and wonder if it would have enough volume to run that pot.
Glenn

klook,

Would it be easier if you'd sprayed the lighter color first, masked that, then oversprayed with the darker color?

The masking and especially the trimming would be somewhat different, perhaps easier to do, as you'd be cutting an outside curve rather than an inside curve.

I have often thought that pinstripping was invented as a way to cover up a less than satisfactory masking job.

"Hey boss, if that crappy brazing job wasn't bad enough, now we've got another wavy masking job here between the panels."

"Ah!, just cover it up with some gold pinstripping. No one will see the line. They'll think the pinstripping is cool and we can probably even charge extra for it."

klook,

Would it be easier if you'd sprayed the lighter color first, masked that, then oversprayed with the darker color?

The masking and especially the trimming would be somewhat different, perhaps easier to do, as you'd be cutting an outside curve rather than an inside curve.

I have often thought that pinstripping was invented as a way to cover up a less than satisfactory masking job.

"Hey boss, if that crappy brazing job wasn't bad enough, now we've got another wavy masking job here between the panels."

"Ah!, just cover it up with some gold pinstripping. No one will see the line. They'll think the pinstripping is cool and we can probably even charge extra for it."

hmm.. ok, so it looks like I'll be pinstriping to cover up the messy sections then..

Do you think there's any way I can still make this clean between the two colours?
What about spraying the white then once dried, masking it off and spraying green back over the ruff sections? keeping in mind not using to much paint so it's not noticable between what I had already painted or just paint another full coat of green..?
(fyi, the green was done with spray gun/compressor, the white by rattle can)

Goo Gone makes a nifty pen tool with a nice edge to it. I've used it with some success cleaning up the edges between paint colors where there was some bleed-through under the masking tape (project still in process)
142147142148

Goo Gone makes a nifty pen tool with a nice edge to it. I've used it with some success cleaning up the edges between paint colors where there was some bleed-through under the masking tape (project still in process)
142147142148

One trick I learned painting model cars growing up is after you tape off a section of frame is to take some clear coat and paint the edge of your tape and that will help keep your other color from bleeding thru and will leave you with a nice crisp line.

That's cool!

One trick I learned painting model cars growing up is after you tape off a section of frame is to take some clear coat and paint the edge of your tape and that will help keep your other color from bleeding thru and will leave you with a nice crisp line.


That, there, is a genuine tip for rattle can success. I never thought of that. Does that cause a paint film build up?

I always go back and burnish the tape edge to ensure it's stuck down.

That, there, is a genuine tip for rattle can success. I never thought of that. Does that cause a paint film build up?

I always go back and burnish the tape edge to ensure it's stuck down.

It won't cause a build up if you do it right,you need very little clear to seal the edge of the tape. Once you burnish the tape down you can used a brush (a nice camel hair one ) to put the clear on and then once you see how it does you can try spraying. Once you get the feel of spraying clear coat just a lite spray is all that is needed then after the whole thing is cleared you will never be able to feel any build up. I myself still like to use a brush it is just easier for me but I know others that are really good at judging how much spray will get the job done without build up.
Glenn

Goo Gone makes a nifty pen tool with a nice edge to it. I've used it with some success cleaning up the edges between paint colors where there was some bleed-through under the masking tape (project still in process)
142147142148

That looks pretty tidy, I'll see if can get one.

I went ahead anyway and painted the white on the weekend. 3 coats spread out during the day on Saturday, 4th coat on Sunday morning and removed the masking that night.
I'm now thinking I probably should have waited a few days before removing the tape as some sections tore very slighlty when peeling it off. I held a blade against the paint as I peeled the tape, that helped make it a bit smoother. It might be a bit late but I'm hoping I might be able to run the Goo Gone pen over some of the ruff edges.
I'll post some pics tonight.

One trick I learned painting model cars growing up is after you tape off a section of frame is to take some clear coat and paint the edge of your tape and that will help keep your other color from bleeding thru and will leave you with a nice crisp line.


I tried this on the weekend, but I'm thinking I didn't waiting long enough for the paint to dry..

Once you've brushed the clear over the tape, how long do you wait before spraying the colour? And then how long do you wait after spraying before removing the tape? Can you peel the tape off quite quickly, leaving a smooth, crisp line? I had to be really careful peeling the tape off, a few sections tore very slightly.
Pics to come

OK, now for a question on the next step:

I'd gotten that old Raleigh Gran Sport frame (the retro single speed, for those who've kept up on my build posts) down to a good finish. Looks respectable, even close up, but chips easily. So, I got disgusted and stored the frame last summer. In the attic. The damned hot, Virginia-in-the-summer, attic. Without thinking. And when I brought it down to use on the singlespeed as a temporary frame, I found I had a decently tough paint job. To the point that I'm not going to use the UO-8 frame after all.

Anyone have any home ideas for baking a finished paint job that doesn't involve painting it in April, and then not using it until November? And no, I'm not about to ask the wife to use the kitchen oven - not after she sat with me through the entire Milan-San Remo live (in Italian) this past Saturday. The UO-8 frame goes to the sandblaster next week, and I hope to start priming shortly after-wards.

The attic at my house gets up to 140 degrees in the summer. That's just about ideal for baking enamel. It also gets it out of sight so I'm not tempted to mess with it while the paint is still soft.

The rattle can acrylic enamel on this fork hardened up nicely after a month in the attic. It seems like it's going to be pretty durable, so I bought two more cans of red and two more of clear to finish the whole frame. My durability test consisted of smacking and scraping it with a screwdriver, so I'll be repainting the fork. I think a week or two will be enough time in the attic when it get warmer.

http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/31955/2558120350068014369S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2558120350068014369OISFBV)

Thanks, Glennford. My next step is to add the "LOOK Bernard Hinault" lettering. I will definitely try out your clear coat tip.

For a crisp line between colors, try fine line tape? Available at most any auto body supply. It might not be worth the price unless you plan to do a lot
of two color paint jobs though?,,,,BD

I was going to post the yellowish stuff first, but then remembered the blue is a LOT nicer, more flexible! Of course
electrical tape does a nice job, and is even more affordable?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MOL1O6/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002KHU2TA&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13MCGZPX4DRXY18J6C9X

140º is all we need? OK, then I'll forget about my idea of using the oven at a local pizzeria. I think they get up to 800ºF, which could undo all the brass.

So what about making an oven? Maybe it wouldn't be hard if it only has to go to 140ºF. The fire might not be hard to make. It might be possible by using an old toaster heating element or a few bright light bulbs. And what would I make the oven walls out of?

I tried this on the weekend, but I'm thinking I didn't waiting long enough for the paint to dry..

Once you've brushed the clear over the tape, how long do you wait before spraying the colour? And then how long do you wait after spraying before removing the tape? Can you peel the tape off quite quickly, leaving a smooth, crisp line? I had to be really careful peeling the tape off, a few sections tore very slightly.
Pics to come

Without seeing what was going on when you removed the tape, sounds like a few things could have been wrong. 1 to much clear only need a little bit. 2 as you stated may have needed more dry time before color coat is applied. 3 if peeling tape up starts lifting paint pull away from paint ever so slightly. I like to remove the tape right away as soon as the paint flashes,but I have left it as long as a few days. The only times I had this problem was because of bad prep work and primer and all lifted and I had to start over.