Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Crank problems for 300lbs+ Also bike suggest

For reference, I am 6ft 3in and now weighing around 340. These past crank problems described below happened while I was anywhere from 200 pounds to 300. Not sure if it is strictly weight related. I ride in Chicago, and pretty much stick just to riding on the street to the lakefront bike path.


I have been having problems with cranks on all my recent expensive bikes. From my Raleigh back in '97 to my most recent stolen Trek 820. After very little use, my cranks loosen up and eventually end up stripped. Surprisingly, this was always with more expensive bikes not the Huffy or Walmart brands I purchased over the years.


For the last few years, I've let myself go and want to get back on the bike and get in shape. I bought a 2007 Trek 820 last year that gave me the worst crank problems ever. The bike shop replaced the crank and the same problem continued. Because it was on sale, they would not accept it for return. Then my garage was broken into, and someone stole it. So it was a total loss.

Can anyone relate to these crank problems and suggest a bike that would avoid them? I was following several postings here and was looking at something definitely under $500 and hopefully without needing many mods.

Any help would be much appreciated.

When you said "expensive" bike I thought you were talking about a bike in the $7000+ range. I guess "expensive" is relative.:thumb: If you are talking about a trek 820 you can buy a brand new one for somewhere around $350. The problem you described sounds like an assembly problem. It appears that your LBS did not do a good job of assembly when they put the bike together initially. If the crank bolts are torqued properly they should not come loose on that bike.

The benefit to having it stolen is that the person who stole it now has the problem! We can hope the crank falls off and who ever stole it has an unfortunate meeting with the top tub.

If you're a big old boy, like some of us, tightening the crank bolts before you ride, if not every ride, maybe every few rides, needs to become part of the drill, just like putting air in your tires.

(Basically, you need to think about your bike like an airplane instead of a car, and do a pre-ride checklist every time, rather than assume it will go 3-5,000 miles before you need to look it over.)

If I were you, I'd find a used MTB off craigslist, tune it up, put some road slicks on it, and use the extra $ to buy tools and parts as needed.

Klink, big props to you for wanting to bike. Lower price bikes will be lower quality bikes that don't stand up well to hard use -- they're typically designed for about 250 lbs or so at the very most. The least expensive bike at Supersized Cycles (http://www.supersizedcycles.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=1) (an online bike shop for larger people) is $600.

Klink, big props to you for wanting to bike. Lower price bikes will be lower quality bikes that don't stand up well to hard use -- they're typically designed for about 250 lbs or so at the very most. The least expensive bike at Supersized Cycles (http://www.supersizedcycles.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=1) (an online bike shop for larger people) is $600.

This is not true (at least once you get past the Huffy / Magna / Pacific / Roadmaster / Megamart garbage).

A well-made used bike (especially a MTB), with a robust wheelset, will be just fine, and most of them are FAR better bikes than that $600 Worksman, which is intended for getting across a factory floor, not being ridden for any distance on the road.

There are plenty of clydes and superclydes putting plenty of miles on standard road / touring / MTB bikes without incident. Yes, once you get over 250-300lbs, you'll probably want to steer clear of radial laced rims and the lighter carbon fiber frames, and once you get over 400lbs, you may want to look at one of those supersizedcycles bikes or having a custom build, but the OP should be fine with a good used MTB from a name brand manufacturer.

Just make sure your bolts are torqued properly.
I'm 365 lbs and only had one crank loosen before I checked the torque.
no problems in 3 yrs.

You might note also that as you get into more expensive bikes, they don't make them stronger and stronger- they make them lighter and faster. You could conceivably have the same problems with a $7,000 bike that you have with a $500 bike that way.

A while back, I downloaded the generic Cannondale catalog, and they actually list maximum recommended weights in it. I forget what they were, but they were higher than you might expect (and highest for their touring bikes).

You might consider the cadence you're using to ride. If your normal riding resembles a leg-press contest, try downshifting and spinning more- reduces stress on your legs and the bike.

Lighten up and spin, not mash big gears. The cheap bikes probably have one piece cranks that lack individual crankarms to strip off the spindle.

Thanks for the info everyone. DieselDan, the funny thing is it was the name brand bikes like Trek and Raleigh with individual crank arms that always loosened and gave me problems. This never happened on the 1 piece cranks on cheaper bikes.
Also, my pedaling is nothing abnormal, although I did ride very quick when I rode in the past, I didn't abuse the cranks.

I think Jtgyk you have good advice about checking the torque.

2nd the mountain bike suggestion. Get one with no rear shock and with the ability to lock out the front shock (or no shock at all).

You might note also that as you get into more expensive bikes, they don't make them stronger and stronger- they make them lighter and faster. You could conceivably have the same problems with a $7,000 bike that you have with a $500 bike that way.

That's only true to a point and when yoiu get into the overpriced superlite aftermarket stuff. I had a tandem ($700), bottom bracket caqrtrige was junk. Thrashed after 2 rides. Replaces with Shimano 105, never a problem again.

My Lemond was a $1000 bike but the Bontrager stock cranks were junk along with the BB cartridge. After a while, they wouldn't stay tight and even a new bb didn't help. Replaced with a Shimano Ultegra now it's a sweet smooth ride! ROck solid with the outboard bearing set up.

I looked up the bike mentioned in the OP and the stock equipment looks to be even less than the stock Bontrager I had on the $1000 bike. If I were the OP, I'd go with atleast a Deore or LX set up to be solid. Not very expensive but would make a trouble free less hassle setup.:thumb:

Same as the thousands of wheel posts here. You can spend $50 for a (rear only) wheel and ruin your enjoyment for riding. Or go with a good wheel $150 and enjoy for years!

Sorry to hear about your woes with cranks and bottom brackets. I had very similar issues with my first two bikes and I was 100lbs lighter. The first was a $300 Raleigh Mojave (entry level mountain bike), the second was a $700 entry level road bike. Like your 820, these both were the least expensive options available in their respective categories. I had many issues with my BB and cranks, warranty replacements were thrashed equally quick. My woes finally went away when I bit the bullet and bought a 1500 cross bike which has held up to all my use/abuse without an issue*. I don't think you necessarily have to take that route, but a good bottom bracket and crank like Mr. Beanz suggested should solve most your issues.

If theft is a major concern of yours, I would keep the bike in your house with you. Do you have renters or homeowners insurance? One of these might cover your bike but this will vary from state to state, check with your agent. If you don't at least have renters insurance, get some. It costs all of 50 dollars a year and when combined with your auto insurance, a multi policy discount might actually pay you to take it out. Or it did for me, I ended up saving 70 dollars with the multi discount and the renters policy only cost 54 bucks, somehow I came out at +16 dollars.


* I hope you’re happy, I probably just jinxed myself

Hi, I am 6'4'' and now 250 but before was bigger around 300. I use campagnolo Ultra Torque cranks on my Cross Check and my Allez and they are the strongest things on the bike. I got mine on eBay and you probably would be happy even with the Mirage/Veloce level - I use Centaur group crankset but only b/c the price was the same. Mash away!

An ISIS or Shimano Octolink crankset and BB would remedy the problem.

An ISIS or Shimano Octolink crankset and BB would remedy the problem.



That's what I had on the Lemond along with the Bonti crank. Didn't work for me. Go with the Shimano, made a big difference!;)

15 posts in and no one has recommended the old beginner Clyde standby!? Specialized Hardrock, cheap, durable, and can take your weight. I put 1500 miles on mine last year from 380 lbs down to 280. Only mods were road tires, Schwalbe Big Apples, and a rack for commuting.

The problem is probably not the quality of the bike and components, but the quality of the initial assembly (in China or Taiwan). IF a crank is not properly tightened it will loosent itself off and fall off, and in the process, possibly polish the corners of the square taper bottom bracket spindle to the point where it can no longer hold a new crank in place properly. It takes a fair bit of loose-crank-riding to get to this point, but it happens, and it is possible that a bigger rider going to wear it ouit faster than a smaller one. If the bottom bracket and crank are replaced, then assembled properly and periodicaly re-torqued (carefully - to much torque is a faster way to ruin a crank than too little torque) the problem will be solved.

If you're a big old boy, like some of us, tightening the crank bolts before you ride, if not every ride, maybe every few rides, needs to become part of the drill, just like putting air in your tires.

(Basically, you need to think about your bike like an airplane instead of a car, and do a pre-ride checklist every time, rather than assume it will go 3-5,000 miles before you need to look it over.)

If I were you, I'd find a used MTB off craigslist, tune it up, put some road slicks on it, and use the extra $ to buy tools and parts as needed.

I have torqued off MANY sets of square taper cranks. The liliputians that run the shop never have this happen when they tighten the bolt with a standard allen tool. So it's alien to them and they'll scratch their head. If you want to KEEP those square tapers, you will need a torque wrench and tighten them to the manufacturers recommendations.

Now what you probably are NOT aware of is the reason the bolts loosen themselves is because the crank arm will wallow UP and down the taper if isn't properly compressed. This relieves the torque on the bolt so when it comes back down it will unscrew the bolt. Another way of fighting this is to use self extracting crank bolts. Basically a retainer ring threads into the crank retention threads. Effectively, you are long longer relying strictly on the taper to hold the cranks against the compression bolt. The bolt tightens into the retaining ring and will prevent the crank arm from moving either up or down the crank arm.

My advice ... go splined or 2 piece. You shouldn't have to tighten your cars lug nuts before every ride. You certainly shouldn't have to do this on a bicycle.

Definitely looking into Specialized Hardrock. Also, the self extracting crank bolts make sense, as well as a 2 piece crank. Much appreciation for your explanation willsmith_nwi

Thank you everyone that posted info. I really appreciate all the help. I couldn't ask for a nicer or more supportive bunch of people for help with bikes than you guys. Thank You. Will update on progress once I get up and riding. I can almost feel the cool Lake Michigan wind in my face on a sunny day right now.