Bicycle Mechanics - Is this bike worth restoring? (Schwinn Tempo)
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01-17-10, 12:30 AM
I was given a Schwinn Tempo and I am wondering if it is worth restoring? It has some rust which I have started to clean up, plus it needs tires, cables, brake pads etc.
Some pictures are posted here: http://picasaweb.google.com/dale.newnham/Bike#
My primary concern is will the bike be safe? Is there a significant chance that the frame could be structurally compromised due to rust or general fatigue? Are there other components that could make the bike unsafe?
I plan to check inside the head tube for rust....what else should I look for?
The bike weighs about 23 lbs as it is and I weigh 169lbs (if that makes a difference!)
Thanks for your advice!
01-17-10, 12:39 AM
The frame should be fine unless the rust is quite deep. Examine all the tubes for any signs of impact or buckling like an accordion - such as the top-tube and the down-tube and head-tube, indicating a pushed-in (impact head-on) fork. I'm afraid your pictures don't do it for getting a good look at the frame and it's overall condition.
Any idea of the year? The Shimano 105 brake on the front is a good sign it's likely not a junker. More data/photos please? And see if you can find a old Schwinn catalog with the specs for this model and year (or close).
01-17-10, 06:38 AM
The picture is kind of blurry, but the number on the headbadge "looks" like 2247? If so that would make it an 1988 model more than likely, when
coupled with the turquoise/white paint and Columbus Tenax tubing. These bikes are highly underrated, and therefore don't have a high collectable value.
They were very nice bikes, they just had no European mystique like their English/French/Italian competition. If you check quick, there was a guy selling this era
of Schwinn decals on ebay not that long ago, and they either NOS or VERY good repros claimed as NOS. As for a full resto it might not get you anything but a nice bike.
It may never be highly sought after, but they ride as good as any high end bike I've ever ridden.,,,,BD
translation for the year model on old Schwinns.... The four digit number on the headbadge.. The first three letters are the numerical day of the year it was built, and the
last digit is the year.
01-17-10, 07:45 AM
23 lb bike? That sounds pretty good. Yeah, I'd give it a shot unless you are looking for a racing bike. If it's just to ride around on, throw some $15 Kenda Kross tires on it. I got a 1993 Huffy that still works fine. I know people look down on Huffy bikes but the mine is still kicking after 17 yrs so what do you have to say about that? ...original rims...original everything even the brakes. I took good care of it, though. My Huffy is about 35 lbs. I'd kill for a 23 lb bike. That's going to be a fast bike.
01-17-10, 08:45 AM
Hello dnewnham, welcome to the forum. someone gave you that? what a great friend. if you are into it this is a great learning experience. I would take everyoff the frame, brakes, derailleurs, etc. really clean it touch it up with some 'duplicolor' (do they still make that? LOL) and reassemble it.
since it was given to you investing 50 to 75 in cables, tires, tape, is not bad. I had one of these a few monts ago. I traded a big bottle of blue saphire for it but it was too small. I passed it along to another BFr and he was very pleased. these are highly underated bikes.
Need to chemically remove the remaining rust. Using an abrasive tool as has been done so far removes METAL with the rust. So the integrity of the frame can be compromised.
Do a search on rust, there are countless threads on how to handle it. Note, you need to look for rust inside the frame. I have had frames that looked pristine on the outside with serious internal rust, and rusty, crusty frames with little/no internal rust.
I am wondering if it is worth restoring?
What do you mean "worth" restoring?
Do you mean whether you can sell it for more than the restoration cost? Or whether you will have a good, rideable bike when you're done? If the latter, it partly depends on what you want/need.
Btw, don't just "throw some tires" on it and ride. Before you tide it, be sure that the bearings aren't dry. Riding dry/congealed bearings can quickly make the restoration include new bearings.
01-17-10, 04:56 PM
And kenda kross tires? C'mon now, it deserves more than that? Put some decent 23c tires on it, and it will be worth riding.:D,,,,BD
01-17-10, 09:07 PM
Many thanks for the great advice! I guessed that the bike was not collectible so I'm considering investing some time and money to get a bike that would be lighter and faster than my old mountain bike which weighs 35lbs.
I was originally thinking of putting about $200 into the bike, with good tires, a round chain ring (my cyclist friend says he will not ride with me if use the biopace one on the bike), and new headset. I don't have the tools to pull out the headset and bottom bearing, so the labor to do this work might push the cost above $200 which starts to become a pretty good payment towards a new bike.
An old Raleigh frame I had years ago parted at the head lug, and also at the fork dropout so I'm a little paranoid about the bike falling to bits under me especially as I'm a lot older and will not heal as fast!
I'll continue to mull this over and research options for a new bike (I plan to post a separate question on this).
garage sale GT
01-17-10, 09:33 PM
Unless the fork was loose the headset is probably fine. Does it turn smooth?
I was able to remove an old bb with a pipe wrench a few times. If they are loose, you pretty much know they're shot, unless the bike had a really light rider. Never fails. Then you just need a shop to install the new one and some of the shimano cartridges are $10. Measure the spindle width before you toss it.
A 23lb steel roadbike is a bike with a good frame.
The humbler c&v models rarely have good resale value even when fixed up but you do get a worthwhile machine.
If you still don't want to mess with it, may I ask where the machine is located? I just got an '88 Schwinn for the frame but I think it was a model with thicker tubing, plus I discovered the kickstand had crushed the chainstays due to excessive clamping. Maybe if it's not too far, we could could come to some arrangement.
01-17-10, 11:57 PM
Riding alone has it's merits:D. At least try the Biopace before you toss them. And if you toss them, toss them my way;).,,,,BD
This bike and an old Raleigh have nothing in common build quality wise. Everyone I have seen is well built, and I have ridden quite a few. I'm 6'+ and 200lbs+.
Never had a failure on a Tenax Schwinn, so fix it up and ride it with confidence.
01-18-10, 04:03 AM
Yes - that frame looks like nice - underrated and good - stuff. And it came with components saying: WORTH IT!!
So I'd call that a VERY worthy project.
01-18-10, 11:54 AM
why does your friend care if you have biopace? if he is thjat concerned about it he should buy you new rings LOL
01-18-10, 11:56 AM
Me likey the Biopace.
(my cyclist friend says he will not ride with me if use the biopace one on the bike)
Your "cyclist friend" is a moron. There's nothing wrong with Biopace. If you're on a limited budget, spend the money on other things first.
01-18-10, 03:30 PM
Biopace are nice! I have an old set of those - waiting for a worthy frame to appear that deserve them. No shame whatsoever.
garage sale GT
01-18-10, 05:52 PM
I felt like I might come off a little disingenuous telling you I wanted the frame. I am in fact looking for a 58-59cm frame. The one in the picture turned out to be super rusty and had damaged chainstays, as I said before.
A bike's weight is not supposed to affect performance that much. It may lead to a race-winning edge but in casual use it's no big deal.
The reason frames made from thin wall, high quality tubing are sought after by non-racers is the fact that they are supposed to have an excellent ride. If the bike really weighs 23lb it definitely belongs in that category. I suspect, though, that it may be a bit heavier than you think. Since much of the weight comes from other components, a difference of a few pounds can really mean a huge difference in the thickness of the tubing walls.
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