Road Cycling - What's the first thing you noticed about your new bike?

OK, so here's the deal. About 10 years ago I bought a Specialized Allez bike for about $800US at the time (I don't know which Allez it was as there are no distinguishing marks on it other than the name Allez and the words Cromoly Direct-Drive on the fork - maybe back then they only had one type of Allez?) It's a Chromoly frame (traditional geometry) with RX100 components. I'm told the RX100 became the 105 group and am assuming they're pretty decent components. I rode it heavy for about 5 years when suddenly ... bamm! married, two kids, new house, new job yada yada... you know the drill - no time for riding.

Well the kids are a little older now and I've finally gotten back to my riding, but 10 years of technology improvements have me perplexed: Should I buy a new bike or stay with my old one? I've got no complaints about my current bike (other than the downtube shifters - never really felt comfortable grabbing a gear while going very fast or climbing) but TEN YEARS... surely the tech has to be much much better today and worth the price of a new bike, right? On the other hand, I don't want to drop a couple of grand and have it only be a minor improvement to my current bike.

So I ask this: For those that have upgraded from older equipment, what did you get for it? What was the first thing you noticed about your new bike as an advantage over your old bike? Was it worth it? Do you still ride your old bike, even if it stays on the trainer? What should I be looking for in my test rides besides fit?

... surely the tech has to be much much better today and worth the price of a new bike, right?

Tech is a bit better. Biggest improvement is probably STI/Ergo. Frames and forks are lighter, too - a lot more aluminum and carbon fiber out there and newer steels are also lighter. And you can get 9- and 10-speed drivetrains.

Is it all worth the price of a new bike? Probably not - not unless your Specialized has a lot of worn parts that would need replacing to get it running again. My vote is to keep riding the Allez.

Keep the frame, swap out the bits. Very hard and expensive to get new Chromo.
"cause your old frame IS steel, it's probably got lots of ride left.
A few lighter components, it'll feel like a new ride.

Disposable culture teaches us nothing useful. I have one of the fastest single track bikes on the Island I live on, bought used, took a year to mod, still not done.

It will have run a bill to say $600+ ( i'm a cheapskate) for a mtb. Ya, I could go buy a built 'Trek' or whatever for the same...Think I will get a better bike new?

Not even close, not @ $700, not @ $800, not @ $900. Around $1500 to get the level of performance, strength and lightness.

New is not always better, isn't that why you roadies want that old Campagnolo junk?
Junk right!

>jef.


OOOPS!...Sorry, forgot to explain, my 'new' bike is used, older....and WICKED BAD!

A new bike for me is over $1500, and I don't have.

First thing I noticed about my new\ used bike was that it had a dent in the toptube that, if the frame had been Alu, would have folded the tube. Being a super grade of proprietary Chromo, it just looked kinda ugly.

>jef.

i like downtube shifters fine, but thats just me. upgrading to STI is expensive. all you need is a newer set of wheels and hubs to get you rolling

I was surprised when I replaced my old steel bike with an aluminum one that the new bike weighed more than my old steel one. However the new bike had shimano 105 components with the shifter levers next to the brake levers. That feature was the most valuable feature of the new bike. If you can keep the components you now have and change to the shift levers next to the brake levers for no more than about a hundred dollars, that is what I would do. Check it out at your LBS or go to the "Bicycle Mechanic" section of this form to check it out.

Tech is a bit better. Biggest improvement is probably STI/Ergo. Frames and forks are lighter, too - a lot more aluminum and carbon fiber out there and newer steels are also lighter. And you can get 9- and 10-speed drivetrains.

Is it all worth the price of a new bike? Probably not - not unless your Specialized has a lot of worn parts that would need replacing to get it running again. My vote is to keep riding the Allez.

My bike's in good shape. It needs some new tires but that's about it. I hadn't touched it mechanically since the day I bought it (if you knew my mechanical skills you'd say that this is the primary reason it's in such good shape ;-) Anyway, gave it a tune up this summer... cleaned and lubed everything, repacked all the bearings etc. Rides fine. Shifts pretty well.

As for "STI/Ergo" are you talking about the shifters? What I know of STI is that it refers to those "clicking" indexed shifters that are now mounted on the handlebar/break levers - is that right? My shifters click on the rear dereailler <sp?> and the front does not. Maybe a shifter/cassette upgrade is in order? I'd love to get off the downtubes. Is it feasible/cost effective?

...If you can keep the components you now have and change to the shift levers next to the brake levers for no more than about a hundred dollars, that is what I would do. Check it out at your LBS or go to the "Bicycle Mechanic" section of this form to check it out.

I don't see why I couldn't do that. Pretty good idea. Thanks.

Any other components worth doing? Maybe the front deraillier <sp?>?

i like downtube shifters fine, but thats just me. upgrading to STI is expensive. all you need is a newer set of wheels and hubs to get you rolling

Wheels are probably the weakest part of my bike. They're mavics, but they're old, worn and were the bottom of the line. Their aluminum so they're pretty light. But again, the wheel upgrade is a good idea. Thanks!

As for "STI/Ergo" are you talking about the shifters? .... Maybe a shifter/cassette upgrade is in order? I'd love to get off the downtubes. Is it feasible/cost effective?

Yes. STI/Ergo is the integrated brake/shift levers. STI is Shimano's term for it, Ergo is Campagnolo's.

It may be possible to upgrade to STI. The biggest problem is if your bike is 7-speed (126mm rear hub spacing). You can't fit an 8- or 9-speed cassette on a 7-speed freehub body and it will probably be hard to find 7-speed STI levers. However, you can transplant a 8/9-speed freehub body onto a 7-speed hub and then go with either 8- or 9-speed STI levers.

I put a new 9sp wheel on both of my old steel bikes. I'm pretty sure the spacing was 126. With the new hyperglide cassette/chain, the old downtube shifters and campy rear derailleurs work like a charm. The new wheels (velomax tempest) are night and day different from the old ones. To replace the wheels doesn't take much in the way of mechanical skills or tools, either. The hardest part is putting on the new chain, getting the stiff link to free up. Those Shimano chains are a pain.

As for STI/ergo shifting, I'm pretty happy now with my downtube shifters. The shifting is much faster than it used to be, takes less lever movement and is dead quiet. 35 years of experience with them makes it second nature to shift.

OK, so here's the deal. About 10 years ago I bought a Specialized Allez bike for about $800US at the time (I don't know which Allez it was as there are no distinguishing marks on it other than the name Allez and the words Cromoly Direct-Drive on the fork - maybe back then they only had one type of Allez?) It's a Chromoly frame (traditional geometry) with RX100 components. I'm told the RX100 became the 105 group and am assuming they're pretty decent components. I rode it heavy for about 5 years when suddenly ... bamm! married, two kids, new house, new job yada yada... you know the drill - no time for riding.

Well the kids are a little older now and I've finally gotten back to my riding, but 10 years of technology improvements have me perplexed: Should I buy a new bike or stay with my old one? I've got no complaints about my current bike (other than the downtube shifters - never really felt comfortable grabbing a gear while going very fast or climbing) but TEN YEARS... surely the tech has to be much much better today and worth the price of a new bike, right? On the other hand, I don't want to drop a couple of grand and have it only be a minor improvement to my current bike.

So I ask this: For those that have upgraded from older equipment, what did you get for it? What was the first thing you noticed about your new bike as an advantage over your old bike? Was it worth it? Do you still ride your old bike, even if it stays on the trainer? What should I be looking for in my test rides besides fit?

I had exactly the same dilemna...coming back to the bike after 10 years off with a perfectly usable and pretty trick Cannondale. I was about to upgrade a lot of the bike when my LBS ambushed me by letting me take an Orbea Volata, with some after market spiffy FSA wheels and nice light carbon pedals, for a day to ride...I never wanted to get off the bike...

Admittedly, the OS aluminum 'dales give a pretty rough ride and the Aluminum w carbon stays and fork Orbea feels positively plush, but it was more than that...everything was just BETTER thasn when I was riding before...

I justified the purchase by strapping the 'dale to the trainer so I wouldn't "cause unneeded wear to the new bike....hmmmm"

The new Technology is quite an improvement. Of course, you could buy an old school steel frame...with new school parts...now, that would be cool

I was surprised when I replaced my old steel bike with an aluminum one that the new bike weighed more than my old steel one. However the new bike had shimano 105 components with the shifter levers next to the brake levers. That feature was the most valuable feature of the new bike. If you can keep the components you now have and change to the shift levers next to the brake levers for no more than about a hundred dollars, that is what I would do. Check it out at your LBS or go to the "Bicycle Mechanic" section of this form to check it out.

My new bike also weighs more than my old bike, but it "rides" lighter and the Campy ergo really does pay off in ways I never thought possible...more comfort, easier adjustment to keep cadence...

But I was a little perplexed that with all that carbon it still weighed more than my old 'dale.

My bike's in good shape. It needs some new tires but that's about it. I hadn't touched it mechanically since the day I bought it (if you knew my mechanical skills you'd say that this is the primary reason it's in such good shape ;-) Anyway, gave it a tune up this summer... cleaned and lubed everything, repacked all the bearings etc. Rides fine. Shifts pretty well.

As for "STI/Ergo" are you talking about the shifters? What I know of STI is that it refers to those "clicking" indexed shifters that are now mounted on the handlebar/break levers - is that right? My shifters click on the rear dereailler <sp?> and the front does not. Maybe a shifter/cassette upgrade is in order? I'd love to get off the downtubes. Is it feasible/cost effective?

If you don't want to spend the money for STI shifters, you can go with bar-end shifters ($150 for STIs vs $50 for barcons). More convenient than down tubes, cheaper than STIs.

Thanks folks. You've all given me some great ideas to mull over/cost compare. I'll let you know how it goes!


Thanks again.

I still regret selling my old Trek 660, it had shimano 600 (Ultegra) 6 speed SIS on the downtube.

If i still had that frame all I would do is upgrade the wheels (but that might mean shifters too, where do you buy 6 speed rims?)

As for is my new bike better, i can't really say because it was 8 years between selling that Trek and getting this new bike. But I did get the shifters on the brakes (and aero cable routing). Other than that I still miss that Trek (Mentally kicking myself AGAIN!!!!)

Hi, this is my first post and after reading your post I just had to put in my two cents. Your situation is much the same as mine except my old Specialized Allez has Shimano 600 throughout. Mine might be about five years older though, it says Cr-Mo Tange forks and also says “Designed in the USA” but it was “built in Japan”. I also got the bug to ride again after about 10 years and while that old bike worked ok, and I put about 1500 miles on it in the last year and a half (riding when I could get the time) I was seeing all these new bikes. So I went to a few bike shops to see first hand just how light the new ones had become. Well I broke down and bought a new Specialized Roubaix Pro about two weeks ago. I was worried that I wouldn’t notice enough of a change to warrant the money spent on it; well those thoughts have been put to rest completely! The Roubaix is at least 6 to 8 lbs lighter and has three more cogs on the rear than the old bike, not to mention all the controls right there in my hot little hands now instead of on the down tube. The all carbon frame and forks make for such a smooth ride that there is just no comparison to the old bike. I would get numbness in my hands with the old bike and was worried about getting carpel tunnel syndrome again, so that’s the excuse I use to justify it to myself. So for me at least there is a HUGE difference between the old and the new.

my '99 serotta is 21 lbs. my 80's pinarello is 22 lbs. no real difference in either. i'd say just upgrade your current frame's components. otherwise no real diff. only other thing is to spend tons of money and get a 17 lb bike.

sd

The biggest problem is if your bike is 7-speed (126mm rear hub spacing). You can't fit an 8- or 9-speed cassette on a 7-speed freehub body and it will probably be hard to find 7-speed STI levers. However, you can transplant a 8/9-speed freehub body onto a 7-speed hub and then go with either 8- or 9-speed STI levers.

Another thought is to spread the dropouts. Luckily you have a steel frame and spreading from 126mm to 130mm on a steel frame is a pretty safe operation.

Another thought is to spread the dropouts. Luckily you have a steel frame and spreading from 126mm to 130mm on a steel frame is a pretty safe operation.

"Spreading" as in "bending" the frame 4mm to 130? Is that done with heat or just pressure?

Hi,
with pressure, it is called a cold set. Here is what I would do, in order of preference....
1)bar end shifters. You mentioned you wanted different shifters. Bar end shifters are great.
2)NOS DurAce brake levers. This depends on your old levers and how much you like them. I really like the pre-STI levers, they have the most comfortable hoods I have seen on old style brakes.
3)New seat. There are a ton of great seats out there. New designs, classics like Brooks, the tough part is finding what you like without spending a fortune buying saddles you hate.. Many LBS wil let you try a few looking for the perfect one. If you're 200lbs or less, titanium rails are great. There are a couple saddles with shock absorbers, I love those, Koobi and the SI trans AM FLX are a couple choices.
4)Ergo bar, I love my Ritchey biomax bar. It was $60 and worth every penny. My dealer got one in, tried to put an order for several more, and found it was backordered. Hot ticket.
5) Wheels. Open Pro/Ultegra wheelsets are really nice for the money.
6) Clipless pedals (if you don't have them already). My LBS likes the Utegra pedal. I use Eggbeaters so I can have Mtn bike shoes (so I can walk occasionally).
7)Upgrade to STI shifting (105 is a good choice)
8) carbon fork. You can find great deals on leftover one inch forks
in the winter. You want to get a name brand here.

Part B
I took a whole year and blew a fortune (for me) putting together a titanium bike. It was light (25 pounds with rack and fenders). It was ungodly fast for a touring bike (it's really more of an Audax than a tourer). And it was tough. I have
this little tendency of destroying dainty bits. I had never seen anything like it when I built it. Of course, it turns out I didn't exactly invent Audax style bikes :rolleyes:

On my old bike, I added new bars, two layers of shock abosrbing bar tape, a nice Nitto Technomic stem, eggbeater pedals, bar end shifters, a Brooks B17 Champion saddle, and Conti TT tires. Yeah, I spent way too much money.

Hi, this is my first post and after reading your post I just had to put in my two cents. Your situation is much the same as mine except my old Specialized Allez has Shimano 600 throughout. Mine might be about five years older though, it says Cr-Mo Tange forks and also says “Designed in the USA” but it was “built in Japan”.

Sounds a lot like mine - except for the bits. I'm going to ride it as is through this season and through winter on the trainer. Two reasons:

1) $$$ - and this reason effectively negates any other reason ;-)
2) I can't quite decide what to do and having the winter to shop around, save and decide seems to make sense given that there's only about a month or two of decent weather left here.

Hey late,

I'll probably do the handlebars and the seat this season. Just this month did the clipless pedals -- man, what a difference.

One question though -- what's NOS ?? I know Dura-Ace, but have no idea what NOS means.

Ahh,
New Old Stock.

Thanks!

"Spreading" as in "bending" the frame 4mm to 130? Is that done with heat or just pressure?

As late said, it's done via cold-setting. The other thing that needs to be done is realignment of the dropouts as spreading them will force the ends slightly out of the vertical plane. This is also done by cold-working.

i'll post again later in the week when my new bike actually gets delivered.

i've been riding an 8yr old aluminum GT that's very entry-level. i'm getting an off-brand italian steel bike with ultegra and i'm paying $1400.

friend of mine got this recently and loves it:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/legacypro.htm
it was $1095 shipped and is a nice compromise between breaking the bank on a fancy name-brand new bike and dicking around upgrading an old tank with parts that are too good for it.

not that upgrading is a bad idea, but parts can be so pricey that before you know it you could have gotten either of the bikes i mentioned. new steel would be lighter than old steel and a whole new group would likely perform better than a 10year old bike with a bunch of extra stuff put onto it piecemeal.

as an example, the '04 Ultegra component group costs $660 at coloradocyclist.com:
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/common/products/productdisplay2_v2.cfm?&CI=1,225,291&PRRFNBR=16633&CGRFNBR=291&CRPCGNBR=291&TextMode=0

an ultegra build kit with some basic wheels is $900:
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/12590-125_SHIUL8_KIT-3-Parts-135-Build-Kits/Shimano-Ultegra-Build-Kit-6500.htm

pay to have somebody put that on your old beater frame and you've spent the same as the full price of that bike my friend got.

alternately, you could get something that was used but had STI and better frame/group than your current old beastie.

don't know your size, but here's an example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=7298&item=3694068653&rd=1

If you're dissatisfied with the down tube shifters of your old bike, I'm going to vote for a whole new bike.

I've fiddled with bicycles for a long time - longer than lots of posters on this board have been alive. One thing I've learned over that time is: "You can never change just one part on a bicycle." Everything works together so closely that, whenever you try to change one component, you almost always have to change out something else to get it to work right. Your bike might well be the poster child for my point. If you still have down tube shifters, chances are you have a 7-speed cassette. You might be able to find a set of 7-speed sti levers, but I doubt it. That means you'll have to change the cassette which requires a different freehub body which means a different rear wheel and probably a minor frame modification and maybe a different chain and front derailleur. See what I mean?

STI shifters are the most expensive component to replace. By the time you change to them and replace any related parts that prove to be necessary, you'll have invested close to the cost of a whole new bicycle but your bike will still be 10 or 12 years old. By comparison, a brand new bike with every single component brand new, every component designed to work with every other component, not to mention a new bike warranty sounds pretty good to me.

How much do you want to invewst in ten year old $800.oo bike.

Sell the bike for $200.00 and get a new bike.

Some one on this board may buy it, or E Bay it.