Road Cycling - Need a new Saddle, with longer rails so I can move it back farther

Need a new Saddle, with longer rails so I can move it back farther then my current saddle.

My current saddle has no brand name on it that I can find. It came on my Mercier Aquila when I bought it new back in Feb. I am told that my seat post already has as much set-back as I am gonna find in a seat post, so a new saddle was suggested.

Any thoughts or recommendations? I do not race but ride 5 or 6 days a week and currently I am training for my first Century.

Need a new Saddle, with longer rails so I can move it back farther then my current saddle.

My current saddle has no brand name on it that I can find. It came on my Mercier Aquila when I bought it new back in Feb. I am told that my seat post already has as much set-back as I am gonna find in a seat post, so a new saddle was suggested.

Any thoughts or recommendations? I do not race but ride 5 or 6 days a week and currently I am training for my first Century.

What makes you think that you need to move the saddle back? Perhaps a longer stem would be more appropriate.

Also, I would get more info on the seat post set back.

-murray

What makes you think that you need to move the saddle back? Perhaps a longer stem would be more appropriate.

Also, I would get more info on the seat post set back.

-murray


I got fitted at my LBS and they were the ones suggesting to move my seat back a little bit more, but the stock saddle has short rails and is already back as far as it would go.

They did not have a seat post with any more set back then my already has.

They told me they my current position is ok, it is neutral, but that moving they seat back a bit might be better. Has to do with the position of my knees in relation to the pedals. A longer stem would not affect that.

yes a longer stem has nothing to do with it. it has to do with the end of ur femur over ur pedal axle.

can u post a picture of the saddle u are running now? so i/we can get a better idea when u say you want longer rails.


thanks!

Hi,
you may need a new seatpost that has more setback.

I went through seat after seat, until I found Koobi bicycle seats. Call Phil at 719-484-0477 and tell him your problem, he can fix it most of the time. Oh yea these seats are not cheap. Good luck. ....Freestyle.

Thompson makes a seatpost with about a 1" setback.
or:
Measure length of present saddle rails, then measure length of new/other saddle rails
in your LBS.

Hi,
you may need a new seatpost that has more setback.


I was told my seatpost already has max set back.

I will try to post a picture. and I will also measure the seat rails.

Edit: Current seat rails are 85 mm long, give or take a few mm

Here are some pics, I hope they work

yes a longer stem has nothing to do with it. it has to do with the end of ur femur over ur pedal axle.

I wouldn't necessarily follow the knee over pedal spindle measurement. There is no physical or physiological basis saying the knee should be directly over the pedal spindle. Triathletes and recumbents seem to work without this type of fitting. Read this for another opinion: http://www.bsn.com/Cycling/articles/kops.html

OTOH, it doesn't hurt to modify your position.



I was told my seatpost already has max set back.

From the pictures you posted, I think you can get more setback than that.

Check out: http://tinyurl.com/3hqtt

or: http://tinyurl.com/4dwpu

-murray

I wouldn't necessarily follow the knee over pedal spindle measurement. There is no physical or physiological basis saying the knee should be directly over the pedal spindle.

I used to manage a LBS... and I'd never take fit advice from a bike store guy. Get seen by a coach if possible. I just spent 90 minutes having everything set-up from the shoes to seat to bars and it feels great. $80 (CAN) well spent.

I just got professionally fitted and KOPS is definitely not a hard and fast rule. My knee is now moved ahead slightly from my previous KOPS position because I was pedalling so poorly (I'm was having back problems from the bike). Also the position of the knee can be affected by cleat position and seat height.

That's a nasty downward slope to his seat too... I'd bet that's affecting the knee positioning. Level it out and the knee might come back 5mm or so.

That's a nasty downward slope to his seat too... I'd bet that's affecting the knee positioning. Level it out and the knee might come back 5mm or so.

You're right, I didn't even notice that! To the OP, if you ride no handed, do you slid forward on your saddle? Leveling your saddle may help.

Another article I read had an interesting take on KOPS. The premise was that, while riding on the hoods, you should be able to take your hands off the bars and pedal without falling on your face. Your feet and seat should be positioned such that you can maintain your balance without your hands, sort of like standing with your bottom against a wall, your feet have to be some distance away from the wall when you lean forward or you fall over. Different people have different balance points.

The author suggested moving the seat as far forward as possible while maintaining balance without your hands. A properly leveled saddle is important here as well. Being able to balance no handed while leaning forward should remove load on your hands and arms while riding normally. Having your center of gravity properly positioned in relation to the saddle and pedals makes more sense to me than having your knee over your pedal. I'll try to find the article.

Edit: Here's the article: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm I like this quote: Most fitting "systems" specify that some part of your knee be directly over the pedal axle at some alignment of the crank, usually with the pedal forward and the crank horizontal. This is pure nonsense.

-murray

If you decide to change your seat fore or aft don't forget to readjust your saddle height. I just made an adjustment to my saddle positioning and found that I was originally riding too bunched up. On climbs I had to keep pushing myself back on the saddle, expending extra energy. Maybe there is not a right and wrong way to make adjustments. It could be what works for the individual rider.

Bolo - how long have you ridden since you were fitted? If you're comfortable riding the set-up you have now, maybe you can do without the saddle.

As it happens, I got fitted at BicycleRanch yesterday & got a similar recommendation - though they said I might benefit more from a different seatpost with a different setback once I built up by hamstrings. I should wait a few months before trying a new post. I ended up with a new stem, which I suspected might happen, and it felt better riding on the trainer. I'll try the new setup tomorrow morning.

Don't forget - saddles are pretty particular! You might get one with longer rails, but what happens if your butt says, "This won't work!"

I used to manage a LBS... and I'd never take fit advice from a bike store guy. Get seen by a coach if possible.

That's a nasty downward slope to his seat too... I'd bet that's affecting the knee positioning. Level it out and the knee might come back 5mm or so.


It was a coach/pro bike fit guy that fitted me.

Also that pic is not very good as the seat is level. They checked that when I got fitted and I checked it again last night.

It has been a couple of months since I got fitted and I do not feel like I need a new saddle, but would like to try one to se if I like it better. It just has to be one that has longer rails then my current. I am keeping an eye on Ebay for saddles so I can maybe try one ofr cheaper then new :D

I have read some of the articles posted, thanks Murray, and I do not feel like I am sliding foward when riding no hands. Also I can ride with my hands on the hoods and then takes my hands off and still be balanced.

I guess maybe if it is not broke, then I should not break it eh ;)

sounds like you might need longer cranks rather than move seat back
moving seat back can cause other problems such as more weight on rear wheel
wheelies are easier

I have read some of the articles posted, thanks Murray, and I do not feel like I am sliding foward when riding no hands. Also I can ride with my hands on the hoods and then takes my hands off and still be balanced.

I guess maybe if it is not broke, then I should not break it eh ;)

I'm glad I could help :) As for broken/fixing, you have to ask what are you trying to acheive with a different position? If you can balance in your current position, you aren't putting too much load on your hands and, according to the article I posted, you will loose some power by moving your seat back.

It's always fun to experiment, though :D

-murray

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