Folding Bikes - Dual Drive with Shimano Bar-End working the IGH.

Figured this might be of interest to some of you. I got the IGH part of an SRAM Dual Drive to work with a 9 speed Shimano bar-end shifter by using a Problem Solvers Travel Agent. Here is a link (http://www.flickr.com/photos/professor_john/4363798316/) to a picture of the set-up installed on my Moulton DP. It will work if you install it so the first click (of the nine clicks) is the neutral position (making the low the un-clicked position with the lever in the all the way down position and the second click the high). I road tested this set-up today on my 45 mile commute (which has a lot of hills) and it worked flawlessly. This makes it possible to set-up the Dual Drive with bar end shifters (although you will need two right bar ends, that is two that do the nine clicks) instead of using SRAM's special dual drive shifters. I use mine combined with STI shifters (I have dual chain rings) to get very wide gearing.

Any new option for DD IGH shifter is a good news!

Have you tried to split your Multon?

From my experience, Travel Agent looses its setting when the cable is not under tension. I had this problem with a NWT even though it does not use cable splitters. When in first gear, the cable was loose and this allowed the cable to slip over the TA wheel since there is nothing that binds at a specific relation to the wheel. When the cable slips on the wheel, this changes the cable tension setting.

(I used the inline version of TA but I the design is the same).

Kam

Any new option for DD IGH shifter is a good news!

Have you tried to split your Moulton?

From my experience, Travel Agent looses its setting when the cable is not under tension. I had this problem with a NWT even though it does not use cable splitters. When in first gear, the cable was loose and this allowed the cable to slip over the TA wheel since there is nothing that binds at a specific relation to the wheel. When the cable slips on the wheel, this changes the cable tension setting.

(I used the inline version of TA but I the design is the same).

Kam

My strategy for splitting was simply to run the cable housing the entire length from the shift lever to the Hub. With the DD you just disconnect the shifter box which attaches to the axle and then I take off the two reusable zip ties that secure the cable to the frame and put the cable with the front section. Adds about 45 seconds to the split time. Since the tension is never released to less than the low gear tension this does not create a problem with the TA. I don't split it that often so the extra time is no big deal.

Oops, I missed that you said you don't split the cable either. Well, in that case I suspect it is my use of the cable liner that keeps the cable on the pulley and avoids your problem. See the picture and description regarding the cable liner. Anyway, I don't seem to have the problem.

Splitting at the clickbox is a clever idea.

When you split, do you keep it in second or third gear to maintain the tension or is the tension of first gear sufficient?

Kam

You cannot remove the box from the axle without being in the low gear. This is just the way the Dual Drive is designed. There is this button you push down that holds the shift lever inside the shift box in the low gear position that you must push before you can remove the box from the axle. This maintains the tension on the cable. In addition to when you split the frame you also have to do this when you remove the rear wheel. One thing you should also do, particularly if you are splitting the frame, is remove the shift rod that goes into the axle. This is what the lever in the shift box pulls on to shift the gears. It could easily be damaged if you leave it in the axle. I keep a spare one in my bike bag just in case.

I use 27 speed dual drive with shiamno tiagra sti brifters, they work great with no mods!