Living Car Free - So how do you folks secure your bikes at shopping malls, Home Depot, etc?

I'm not ready to give up my car yet, even though I don't drive a lot. I filled up last time like in December :D It's still useful for quick getaways from the City on weekend mornings. But I want to start utilizing my bike more for other things than commuting and leisure riding. I have a mountain bike based commuter with a rack and two panniers and I've started gathering resources for a Kona Sutra touring bike build.

Most places I go to: Home Depot, BJs, Costco, Staples, etc. have parking lots that are obviously designed for um... cars and hardly ever any bike facilities. How do I secure my bike? I don't want to take off all my lights, etc.

Small grocery stores are not a problem as I can see my bike all the times but once I go into the trenches of Home Depot my contact with the bike is lost.

Should I insist on taking my bike inside? Should I use steel cables to lock my panniers, bags, etc. then u-lock to something? Or I need to get another, simpler bike with semi-permanently attached baskets and no detachable thingies for shopping errands? Or just strip the bike off lights and stuff at home before going on shopping errands? The problem is that some, like my Magic Shine and rear blinkies are screwed or zip-tied quite well so it'd be annoying to take them off every time. Yet, they can be broken off if someone really tries. And this is New York after all.

Another idea would be wait until my Kona Sutra is done and outfit it for commuting and then convert the current MTB commuter into a shopping bike with stuff secured permanently, cheap panniers or shopping bags/baskets, etc.

I would be riding my bike a lot more often if secure bike parking was available.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Adam

At Home Depot I bring the bicycle in with me down the aisles and to the checkout. It's smaller than their large carts that haul giant pieces of lumber.

Anywhere else I park my bicycles I remove all lights and bags and bring them with me. Even though I live in a small town I don't trust anybody I don't know. If there are no bicycle racks I find a steel post for a street sign or perhaps a telephone pole.

Parking is the worst part of using my bicycle as transportation. Sure I can find poles and things very near the front door of my destinations. The thing that bugs me is my curly cable lock. It does a good job but it is so difficult to thread through wheels or sometimes chain link fences. Had I known this I would have bought a straight cable. In cold weather that curly cable is really difficult to bend.

As far as riding around on an expensive bicycle in New York and leaving it unattended you had better get some tough locks. That means heavy duty or just heavy.

I lock mine to a pole. The front light I use is easily removed, so I pull it off and stuff it in my mini-messenger bag. My rear light is hard enough to remove past my fender that I avoid removing it. Someone who didn't know it came off would probably assume it was permanently attached. It's not even remotely valuable anyway; I got it as part of a $30 package with a headlight.

Panniers or trunk I generally leave on since they're a pain the remove and not obviously valuable. Actually, aside from the Go Getter bags on my Mundo, my bags aren't all that valuable anyway, and the Go Getters are both a pain to remove and a pain to carry.

So far the only thing I've had stolen was a headlight that I mistakenly left attached to a handlebar clip.

On the other hand, I'm not in NYC. On the other, other hand, I do live near and work at a major university and regularly do this at the nearby mall, grocery store, Walmart, etc. YMMV.

Most of the time, I lock up at a rack or to a suitable railing that works like a rack. My daily ride is a Breezer, so I have a wheel lock, and a U-lock works to keep things reasonably secure. The lights are generator powered, so they're relatively fiddly to take off.

My primary way of carrying things is a front basket. Wald and Topeak make ones with a quick release that are about the same size as a grocery shopping basket. (mine is a Topeak and has had a lot of minor but annoying issues... not recommended) It is very convenient, since I can park the bike, walk into the store and shop with my basket, and then the cashier and I can put it right back in. If I need a little more space or to carry something fragile, I use my messenger bag. If I need to really haul cargo, I have a pair of Novara Safari large panniers... they are *very* large tho, and I don't need them for a lot of my ordinary trips. They're easy to get on and off the bike, so I will take them in with me and put them in my shopping cart.

It's not a big deal to run errands this way. I started out with pair of cheapie panniers, and that was much less effective. It's a lot easier now that I can pick exactly how much space I need.

Try talking to the people at the various stores you would visit most often for a solution. At my COSTCO I park where the front greeter can see it and ask him or her to keep an eye on it. I still lock it of course, but I've never had anyone actually steal anything from the bike.

Use two locks in high crime areas--one cable lock and one U-lock. According to experts like Sheldon Brown, thieves are less likely to have two different sets of tools required to break two types of lock.

I take lights in with me. I also take my bike computer in ever since I had one stolen off my bike--even though it was totally worthless to the thief without the sensor and cables.

I've only had one bike stolen--a fairly old MTB (an entry-level Giant IIRC). The thief left behind (like a swap) a beautiful old Fuji that was worth at least 3 times as much as the MTB he stole. :D The Giant was locked with a mid-quality cable lock which was cut on the second try, judging from the marks on the cable. It probably took him about 5 seconds to get my bike.

Strip her down and chain her up! :eek:

I would bring the bike inside stores but in the winter it is a terrible mess. Usually theft rates aren't so bad in the winter either - crack heads are skinny and don't like the cold maybe.

For sure remove blinkies, lights and computers... when i goto a store my pannier is mostly empty anyways since i'm usually picking up stuff.

People haven't stolen my cheapish panniers yet(only short lock-ups tough) and there is nothing inside them either. It helps if stuff is dirty, real dirty... shiny new stuff attracts attention.

One thing that I've found very useful about my Brompton is that I can fold it and put it in one of the shopping carts provided by the store. Or I can partially fold it, and then wheel it around the store using the Brompton's EZ wheels. I know that at least the Safeway, Albertson's, Whole Foods, Rite Aid, Home Depot, Lowe's, OSH, Trader Joe's and Target stores around where I live won't bother me when I do that. No need for locks and total peace of mind.

Adam, on my winter commuter, I usually leave my lights attached to the bike, but in addition to zip ties I use black tape and lots of it to slow down thieves. In areas where I feel comfortable leaving my bike I'll just use my cable lock, but when I feel less secure, I'll use my Street Cuffs in addition to the cable lock. I'll leave my panniers on since they're a really a hassle to take off and put on, and I'll just take my wallet, phone, keys, and gear.
When I'm going to the movies, or I'll be leaving the bike for a few hours, I won't take my dedicated commuter, and I'll use one of my guest bikes that has a less expensive lighting system/panniers that can be easily removed, so that I can take them with me inside.

Currently I only have a cable lock. And, in winter, I use a lighter cable lock because the thicker one I have doesn't flex much in the cold.

I use the same lock all over town.... from the downtown library and bike co-op to the surburban Home Depot.

I'm not advising you to follow my lead, however. I've always thought I should drag along a mini u-lock with the cable lock.

I'll probably end up doing that just *after* one of my bikes gets stolen.

I have a large expensive saddle bag that I leave on the back of my bike at all times. Its a Sackville Large from Riv. I bought a very thin cable lock that you might see on someones luggage to keep airport attendents from looking through their bags and lashed the saddle bag to my rear rack. Anyone who is really commited coud steal your rear rack, fenders, handlbars, anything reall with just a screw driver and a few minutes of time. However, most theives will be detered by something pretty simple like this. A "real" theif will be able tot take your stuff no matter what protection you are using.... I think you would be able to lash your panniers to your rack with a thin cable like I did and just leave them on. With a little luck I doubt you will ever have a problem. \. You could also upgrade your panniers to something that was super easy to come on and off like ORtliebe or Arkel and just take them in with you... Lots of choices and none of them are wrong really.

Thanks for the input. My headlight is screwed to a thick aluminum L-bracket which is bolted to the fender mount hole in the head tube, it would be very hard to break off ad would require tools and time to remove so I don't worry about that too much. The computer is easy enough to remove. The only two things that would need modification are two rear blinkies, they're attached semi-permanently with zip-ties (I disliked the original mounts). I could indeed just use an abundance of zip ties to secure them or put the original quick-release mounts back on.

I decided to get rid of my saddle bag and put the toolkit in one of the panniers as they're underutilized anyway.

Since my bike is a custom build, no name frame I don't worry that much about real thieves but more the kind of theft of opportunity people. So I guess if I make things difficult enough I should be OK.

I never liked the coiled bike cables either. They're indeed a pain in the neck to use. I picked up a straight steel cable from Home Depot. Contractors use those to secure equipment at jobsites. It's as good if not better than a bike specific cable, straight and costs like $15. Plus a decent lock, another $15. I also have a big u-lock, so the combination of these two should be deterrent enough.

Oh, and I need to get rid of the quick-release levers.

Places like Costco or Trader Joe's are usually so crowded I wouldn't even think about bringing my bike in, unless I make an effort to do my shopping early on weekends, which is possible. My panniers aren't that hard to remove but I'd rather leave them on so a thin steel cable may do the trick.

I'm lucky to be able to take my bike with me inside the building where I work and I lock it up in a server room so I never made any efforts to make it theft proof and so far I had to run very few errands during my commute. But now I want to bike more :)

I think, once I get my Kona built, I'll convert this bike to a more theft-proof shopper with cheaper panniers and a basket on top of the rack, a plastic crate would do :D But that may be a couple of months and I'd like to start running errands on a bike sooner than that.

Thanks again! Cheers!

Adam

An additional question:

Locks can be a big PITA. How do you carry your lock[s]?

I have panniers and semi-permanent (zip ties) cargo net on my rack, and I don't worry about few extra pounds. I carry the U-lock in one pannier and the cable rolled up under the cargo net on the rack or in the pannier too. I would carry the U-lock the same way but it rattles and slips from under the net due to its momentum and hard surface. The cable has a softish plastic sleeve that prevents rattling and slipping.

Adam

Seems like you are travelling on some relatively high-end bicycles (?), which is nice, but a little different than my strategy. Which is to do most of my transportational cycling on lower end bicycles. For example, I have an ancient Fuji road-bike which I use in the summer and a souped-up Bianchi hybrid which is now showing its age. If I lose either of those, it's a PITA but I'll just go buy another one.

My strategy is basically the same as NY Times Photographer Bill Cunningham, who used to travel New York exclusively by bike and had his stolen 27 times IIRC. His strategy: "Never buy a new bike!"

http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2008/09/11/timestopics/topics_cunningham_395.jpg

http://topics.nytimes.com/topics/reference/timestopics/people/c/bill_cunningham/index.html



My first job was delivering newspapers as a kid in Boston. When I was in the hat business, I'd ride up Park Avenue with piles of hat boxes on the handle bars. For a few years I retired the bike. Then came the subway strike of 1966, and I had to go downtown to do an interview at a window display house in SoHo for The Chicago Tribune. So I hopped on my bike again and haven't been off it since. I can see the whole city from that perch. I once gave Grace Jones a lift to her next modeling assignment. Without a bike I couldn't get to all the benefits and parties I cover for Evening Hours every Sunday. Since the 60's, 27 bikes have been stolen from me, and today I buy them only secondhand.

.......My strategy is basically the same as NY Times Photographer Bill Cunningham..... His strategy: "Never buy a new bike!"



Looking for a decent used inexpensive bike in my area, that fits me and my needs, is difficult at best, and when they do show up, it's usually a free for all amongst our local commuters. My strategy is "Never buy a new bike that is just as much or more in cost than it is to drive my car".

Not really, it's a self built, no-name bike, all old parts from other bikes.

Adam

Not really, it's a self built, no-name bike, all old parts from other bikes.

Adam
:thumb: The only problem with my strategy is that sometimes I end up with a couple of really nice components. On my old Fuji I have a nice pair of Shimano 600 downtube shifters and I just bought some metal fenders ($35 at Velo Orange...). If my bike was stolen, I wouldn't be out that much money, but it would still suck.

It's gonna get new wheelset and has new tires and casette but other than that it's all used parts and $99 Nashbar frame :) It would definitely suck though if it was stolen. I like this bike :D

Adam

Yeah, it hurts to have your ride stolen, no matter what it cost. Plus it's usually a long walk home...

Mmm... I've pretty much got two choices, given the arthritis and my physical build. Stick with my mass market step through, or go full custom. It is doable to find a used step through in the size I need, but it's not easy and often the bike will be a piece of trash bike shaped object, or is a lovely vintage bike that costs nearly half what my new bike cost... and will cost another $300 or so to get it fitted out so I can haul cargo with it. $600-700 for a workable cargo hauler just isn't a big discount over $800.

After hunting for a workable used bike for a year, I decided it made more sense to buy new. Part of that is the price I pay for living in a "bike friendly city", but part of it is just I really am that oddly built. A more able-bodied cyclist would have a lot more options. Since I don't, I lock up as well as I can manage, and I don't ride a bike I can't afford to lose... we definitely couldn't afford it if I rode a full custom Waterford and it got stolen.

Bike and trailer go in with me, just far enough to be on camera and I let the manager know that it's there and "thanks, I'll be right out". Obviously, this works fine during slower times of the year, but with temps climbing and the weather getting nicer (more people everywhere) on the days I'm solo, I will be using a security/lock system.

I'm new to this--When you lock your bike however you do it, how do you protect the frame from getting scratched by whatever it's leaning against?

I'm new to this--When you lock your bike however you do it, how do you protect the frame from getting scratched by whatever it's leaning against?

you can use old rubber tubes and wrap em around...

you can use old rubber tubes and wrap em around...

Really great suggestion--I just sacrificed an mtb tube for this purpose!

Yes, you can wrap parts of your frame or use a cable or a lock that is encased in plastic or rubber. I'm going to wrap my U-lock somehow, don't know yet how though.

I just realized how lucky I am. I've never considered taking anything off my bike. I'm in a pretty low crime area. I lock it up with a simple cable lock to deter the walk away type thieves but that's it.

At Home Depot I lock my bike up to an outside railing near the exit. I rarely strip anything off of the bike there as it seems like an unlikely place for anyone to steal something off the bike. At the grocery store I frequent there are bike racks. I usually quick release my computer if its on the bike, and my headlight. I've found the frequency of people stealing taillights compared to the hassle of taking it off not to be worth it but that's quick too with a quick release version.

If I know I'm going somewhere that's unlikely to have anything to attach a u-lock to I'll bring a cable. If its a store with absolutely nothing to lock a bike to I'd bring it inside.

Especially since you have zip ties around your lights I think I would just leave them and not worry about them as you probably won't be in the store that long, and its likely to be a place that would be busy for people to see someone obviously messing with a bike. Unless they are particularly expensive to be worth a thief's hassle.

Every HD I've been to has a big fence around the lawn and garden outdoor section suitable for chaining up to. I lock up to handicap parking signs if I need to.

The Lowes nearest me has no bike rack, but I can lock to a shopping cart corral at the edge of the parking lot. The Home Depot two blocks further away has an excellent bike rack. Guess which one I always go to first.

Mmm... I've pretty much got two choices, given the arthritis and my physical build. Stick with my mass market step through, or go full custom. It is doable to find a used step through in the size I need, but it's not easy and often the bike will be a piece of trash bike shaped object, or is a lovely vintage bike that costs nearly half what my new bike cost... and will cost another $300 or so to get it fitted out so I can haul cargo with it. $600-700 for a workable cargo hauler just isn't a big discount over $800.

After hunting for a workable used bike for a year, I decided it made more sense to buy new. Part of that is the price I pay for living in a "bike friendly city", but part of it is just I really am that oddly built. A more able-bodied cyclist would have a lot more options. Since I don't, I lock up as well as I can manage, and I don't ride a bike I can't afford to lose... we definitely couldn't afford it if I rode a full custom Waterford and it got stolen.
For the type of bicycle you describe, it might actually be more cost effective to go new... if you can find the bike you want. If you want an older step-thru frame, a good choice might be an older steel mixte frame. Some of them are gorgeous. The problem is finding one to suit.

I'm totally different from those on the forum. I do not use bike racks and avoid them at all costs. Experience has shown that crooks visit bike racks often to steal bikes or parts. All of my bad experiences have been locking the bike on racks or where everyone can see it.

Today, I lock my used Schwinn World Sport blocks from where I intend to shop. A Costco or Staples would require finding a location far from foot traffic. I park behind the mall, behind a garbage dump or a no parking sign two blocks from the exit. I also look for a fence that has trees or bushes behind since this provides a great cover and your bike will be difficult to spot from a distance.

The great fear is that a crook will be able to work on your bike in complete cover. This does not happen because of the following:

1. Bike crooks don't look behind garbage dumps, malls or trees. (auto-theives on the other hand do go behind malls but they in general do not ride bikes.) People who steal bicycles at the mall do not search for them by looking all over the mall. They know right away the easiest place to nick a bike is one attached to the rack and yes, they know exactly where it is!

2. Mall workers in general don't steal bikes --- If your bike is discovered behind a mall, it will usually be a mall employee. This has happened to me several times and none have stolen my bike. They warned me not to lock it there but that's all. In fact, they often tell me I must use the bike rack or it will be removed by security. When I go to the bike rack, I'll find a Huffy with a missing rear wheel.

Not really, it's a self built, no-name bike, all old parts from other bikes.

Adam

Rule of thumb around around Southern California: It is not the bike's age, how it looks, or even if it is new, it is simply valued as "can I use it myself or sell if for fifty dollars." Bike theft is spiking in all areas, not just the slummy ones.


One thing that I've found very useful about my Brompton is that I can fold it and put it in one of the shopping carts provided by the store. Or I can partially fold it, and then wheel it around the store using the Brompton's EZ wheels. I know that at least the Safeway, Albertson's, Whole Foods, Rite Aid, Home Depot, Lowe's, OSH, Trader Joe's and Target stores around where I live won't bother me when I do that. No need for locks and total peace of mind.

Folding bikes (especially really small ones) are the only ones that survive the most bike theft communities-providing you don't treat it like a bike and lock it up anywhere outside with even a U-Lock. Or use the front rack of buses.


Yeah, it hurts to have your ride stolen, no matter what it cost. Plus it's usually a long walk home...

+1


I'm totally different from those on the forum. I do not use bike racks and avoid them at all costs. Experience has shown that crooks visit bike racks often to steal bikes or parts. All of my bad experiences have been locking the bike on racks or where everyone can see it.

Today, I lock my used Schwinn World Sport blocks from where I intend to shop. A Costco or Staples would require finding a location far from foot traffic. I park behind the mall, behind a garbage dump or a no parking sign two blocks from the exit. I also look for a fence that has trees or bushes behind since this provides a great cover and your bike will be difficult to spot from a distance.

The great fear is that a crook will be able to work on your bike in complete cover. This does not happen because of the following:

1. Bike crooks don't look behind garbage dumps, malls or trees. (auto-theives on the other hand do go behind malls but they in general do not ride bikes.) People who steal bicycles at the mall do not search for them by looking all over the mall. They know right away the easiest place to nick a bike is one attached to the rack and yes, they know exactly where it is!

2. Mall workers in general don't steel bikes --- If you bike is discovered behind a mall, it will usually be a mall employee. This has happened to me several times and none have stolen my bike. They warned me not to lock it there but that's all. In fact, they often tell me I must use the bike rack or it will be removed by security. When I go to the bike, I'll find a Huffy with a missing rear wheel.

I don't know what is like in other parts of the country as when I travel I don't take bikes with me as a rule, but here in Southern California, bikes disappear all the time from "hidden" sheds, garages and the above. By the way, my last nonfolding bike was a Schwinn World Sport bought used. I locked it up with a one of the last US made Master Lock U Lock. Some Neanderthal still tried to smashed it. Thank God my father was still alive and healthy enough to work the lock off for me. I sold the bike later and only use folding ones now that stay with me at all times-no exceptions.

Since I'm the only one on a bike whenever I roll into a store I just use the back of a cart station. They work better than the regular bike stands because you can lock up the frame and not just the wheel. Or all 3 if you want : O. Can't be too safe now-a-days. Technically I did leave my bike without a lock 1 time but I also did my shopping in record time : P.

I just take my folder in with me.

Having had my Dahon Folder(Boardwalk--used $75) Stolen from Home depot Jan 19, I now use a Case Hardened Chain on my Old daily Beater/Errand bike. Our neighborhood HD store from where my Bike was stolen has a Bike Rack but its located far away from the main door in a not too secure dark area. The night my Bike was stolen, I had it cabled to the Main Exit Door Roll down shutters not more then 12 feet from the Cashier's check out lane. Usually there is a Guard there by the Exit door checking recepipts but she took a hike to parts unknown. And the thief saw that as a weak link in security! I thought this was pretty secure and I was only in the store 12 minutes approx. I Locked it with a 1/2 Steel Cable but the Thieve(S) had a hefty Cable cutter evidently and knew how to use it. When I exited the store, all that remained was my cut cable and large master lock on the ground . Hind Sight is always 20/20. The manager later told me "Why didn't you bring it in the store?" Last time I tried, the rent a cop security guard told me I couldn't bring it inside. The Security camera has a Pic of the thief but management will not let me view the tape to see if I can identify the person. I have ideas who it may be but without being able to see the Tape I'm out of luck. Now, I use an old faded black Jamis earth cruiser that looks like a relic of Baghdad, nicked, Ugly ect. It has a large Wald Steel dual set of baskets and not much else other then some cheap lights. That's my neighborhood Errand bike from here on in, nothing to garrner attention. The Bike was a discarded freebie anyways. My new folder(a Black Mu Uno) soon too arrive, will not be parked out of eyesight . In the stores, I will fold it up and take it inside on a shopping cart or wheel it inside folded up beside me. If you have a Nice $$$ Bike you don't want stolen(easily) Secure it with a High Quality U-Lock or a Large Heavy Duty Kryptonite Chain & Lock. Or take it with you if possible. In my last trip down to Miami's South Beach and a Biking hotspot, I noticed 95% of the Decent Bikes parked were secured with U-Locks and/or Heavy Kryptonite Chain locks. Cable locks are hardly seen in this Bike Rich Hotspot for thieves. Tells you something! Lock it securely or lose it. And if they(thieves) really want your ride, even these detrements won't stop a Pro. I can see the lighter steel cables for securing panniers, seats, wheels ect. Home Depot sells large and small(1/8 inch) bulk steel cable with the swedges so you can buy and custom make your cable to exactly the lengths you need them. I have 1/8" and 1/4 straight cables that made up in 6 and 8 feet lengths so these are good for wheels, panniers ect. I don't think I have more then $15 invested in both. Easy to make. Secure it or lose it! If they are going to steal it, at least make them work for it!

The vintage mixtes are gorgeous... and run $300+ around here for ones suited to 50lb loads. That's without lights, without a rack, without fenders, and often in need of a brake upgrade or wheel upgrade. Typically, a vintage mixte will also weigh in at about 30lbs before adding useful cargo/all weather gear. Getting one into working condition for my needs is easily $200. Getting it to be as nice as my Breezer is more like $300-400. It ends up being a pretty similar proposition to a modern hybrid, only you have a fighting chance of getting the vintage bike to be relatively light for the money you sink into it.

By comparison, my Breezer is 35lbs, and had all the cargo/weather gear I needed, for $800.

I wasn't kidding about price you pay for a bike friendly area :). But I have a bike I like, and that works well for me.

Today, I lock my used Schwinn World Sport blocks from where I intend to shop. A Costco or Staples would require finding a location far from foot traffic. I park behind the mall, behind a garbage dump or a no parking sign two blocks from the exit. I also look for a fence that has trees or bushes behind since this provides a great cover and your bike will be difficult to spot from a distance.


That sounds terribly inconvenient. Get a new york lock, locking pit locks for the wheels/seatpost, put your bike on home or renters insurance, and then forget about it! If you are worrying about your bike getting stolen it becomes rather inconvenient to use as a primary means of transport.

An additional question:

Locks can be a big PITA. How do you carry your lock[s]?

My utility bike - which is the one that goes to Home Depot, grocery shopping etc, has a frame lock built in - http://www.cantitoeroad.com/catalog/product_thumb.php?img=images%2FAxa-Defender-RL-Silver-FoldKey.jpg&w=320&h=320
The lock is mounted to the seatstay tubes, and a bolt goes through the spokes of the rear wheel, making it impossible to ride. There is also an accessory chain which has one end which fits into a socket on the lock.

I usually lock the bike up in a location very close to the main door, so that plenty of people are going to see if someone tries to cut the chain or haul the bike away.

I also do not have quick releases on my wheels, which will slow down anybody trying to abscond with a wheel.

I also do not have quick releases on my wheels, which will slow down anybody trying to abscond with a wheel.
Good point...I had a QR wheel stolen once from work, parked right under a security camera. But I change wheels fairly often, and I do get flats occasionally, so I hate to give up the convenience of QR wheels. When in doubt, I lock them with my cable lock or u-lock.

Now QR saddles are another story....

Now QR saddles are another story....
I've secured my saddles to the frames with seat leashes. A thief would have to partially disassemble the saddle to take it away.

I don't ride at night if I can help it so there is nothing much to take off of my bike. I only shop with my Old MTB so a Cable lock tends to work pretty well. With today’s power tools it would be hard to stop a determined Bike Thief but the grab and toss guys don’t like to mess with locks. Still like one other poster my area as bad as some.

Yeah, I removed the quick release levers and replaced them with nuts so a wrench is necessary to take the wheel off. I'll do the same to the saddle post release today. I also removed the computer today, I don't need it on a commuter bike.

Adam

My utility bike - which is the one that goes to Home Depot, grocery shopping etc, has a frame lock built in - http://www.cantitoeroad.com/catalog/product_thumb.php?img=images%2FAxa-Defender-RL-Silver-FoldKey.jpg&w=320&h=320
The lock is mounted to the seatstay tubes, and a bolt goes through the spokes of the rear wheel, making it impossible to ride. There is also an accessory chain which has one end which fits into a socket on the lock.

I usually lock the bike up in a location very close to the main door, so that plenty of people are going to see if someone tries to cut the chain or haul the bike away.

I also do not have quick releases on my wheels, which will slow down anybody trying to abscond with a wheel.

Same lock and chain assembly I use, in fact I just ordered 2 more of them for different bikes. My lights stay on my bikes, most are bolted on, ditto the wheels on the bikes I ride most often. I am building up a beater Raleigh 3 speed to leave at my parents house in town for use when I am there, I will have ~$100 in the bike, most it in baskets. I would be seriously pissed if it gets stolen, 3 speeds are getting hard to find.

Aaron :)

I guess it depends on where you live. We live in a fairly quiet suburb of Phoenix. Sure, we have crime here but nothing very serious. We just lock our bikes to the bike rack at Costco. Home Depot doesn't have a bike rack so we lock the bikes to a Palo Verde tree. We've never had any trouble or lost any parts from the bikes.

That sounds terribly inconvenient. Get a new york lock, locking pit locks for the wheels/seatpost, put your bike on home or renters insurance, and then forget about it! If you are worrying about your bike getting stolen it becomes rather inconvenient to use as a primary means of transport.

It is a little inconvenient but not too inconvenient.

I have a New York 3000 and leave it home. It's too heavy and it won't matter if people see your bike with it on. I had my bike vandalized several times with the New York 3000 and this is why I no longer park at train stations.

If you can find my bike, it will have no pit locks for the wheels, (quick release in the front) lights that can be easily removed and no insurance. I feel alot safer using my technique than carrying 40 lbs in locks and locking to a bike rack at a mall! Using my strategy, you can use a lighter lock instead of having to carry that heavy New York Chain which makes every bike into a 35 lb Schwinn Continental!

When the summer comes, you'll read one "Bike Rack" horror story after another on these forums. I don't want to be one of them.

The other day, I broke my rule and parked (my new bike) right in front of a small strip mall where everyone can see it. Guess what? I did not even get to the door when three teens surrounded my new bike and were talking about how to break my U-lock! I had to make a 180 degree reverse, unlock my bike and go home.

The other day, I broke my rule and parked (my new bike) right in front of a small strip mall where everyone can see it. Guess what? I did not even get to the door when three teens surrounded my new bike and were talking about how to break my U-lock! I had to make a 180 degree reverse, unlock my bike and go home.

Like I said, it depends on where you live :eek:

I have my BOB cart with me on such trips, so I loop the cable from the cart through the seat and lock it to a u-lock through my back tire and whatever rack is available. This makes it impossible to move the bike with any ease. Even without a rack it's tricky to move it very far in this setup. Total weight of bike (a modified Hoss) and trailer is about 40 lbs. Cable is thick and covered with plastic and the U-lock is a krypto.

The worst place by far is Cost-Co, which has no bike rack at all. But I manage. Nobody has stolen it yet or even tried to steal it. Thievery hasn't gotten that bad around town.

cant believe everybody missed the only solution, spend the dough... pinhead locking skewers including headset and seat lock and kryptonite mini evo lock. drop the 120 bucks and never worry again... unbeatable without power tools, period.

My utility bike - which is the one that goes to Home Depot, grocery shopping etc, has a frame lock built in - http://www.cantitoeroad.com/catalog/product_thumb.php?img=images%2FAxa-Defender-RL-Silver-FoldKey.jpg&w=320&h=320
The lock is mounted to the seatstay tubes, and a bolt goes through the spokes of the rear wheel, making it impossible to ride. There is also an accessory chain which has one end which fits into a socket on the lock.

I usually lock the bike up in a location very close to the main door, so that plenty of people are going to see if someone tries to cut the chain or haul the bike away.

I also do not have quick releases on my wheels, which will slow down anybody trying to abscond with a wheel.

So...you took off the QR on your rear wheel...why? The frame lock stops anyone from taking the rear wheel anyways, without someone cutting it off, or cutting the rear wheel itself, which of course, defeats the point of taking the rear wheel.

I used to carry with me both my U lock, and a semi-beefy cable lock. But it felt like any time I used them, I was turning a "quick stop" into a "longer stop". And I hate carrying the extra weight. I've pared down to just the cable lock, and haven't had any problems. Hell, I even leave my Ortliebs and lights on!

I suppose I am "asking for it" in a sense, but I don't think the crime rate for bikes is that bad here in Victoria, especially for road bikes. Most people seem to was Mountain bikes around here, that and the junkies get better pay by panhandling, or busking on the street. Seriously, during tour season, beggars on the street are probably making more than I am, and certainly aren't paying tax on it. Buskers make more.