Commuting - Any drawbacks to commuting with a racing-style roadbike if I'm not using panniers?

Wondering if there any commuter caveats I need to watch out for if I decide to get a racing roadbike for commute purposes.

I'm familiar with road bikes (I have a racing road bike) but have been using a cheap mtn bike for commuting, and don't use panniers anymore since they were too much of a pain to lug around all day long (I'm on the move at work.)

There aren't any drawbacks really. Both will get you where you want to be.

However, road bikes are less comfortable/have more aggressive geometry than most commuting/touring bikes.

Also, road bikes typically have less clearance for wider tires. Assuming you're talking about commuting on your Cervelo P2, you won't really have clearance for fenders, which I consider to be vital to commuting. I also doubt your Cervelo will accept tires larger than 28mm wide (28mm might even be a stretch). Wider tires are ideal for riding on lesser maintained roads. Bigger tires generally equate to a more plush ride as well (dependant upon brand/material).

only drawback to a road bike with drop bars for commuting is if you are in an urban environment. then I would suggest a straight bar road bike with raised bars (somewhat). these are popular in Boston; Cambridge and Somerville, MA

for me commuting 13 miles from rural; through suburban; then into metro west commercial district I prefer a traditional drop bar road bike to be more efficient. I setup my MTB for snow commutes, but those are brutally slow (days)

I ride a entry-level road bike as a commuter and it works great. Not sure what you are looking at as a "racing" road bike but a few suggestions.

As noted above, tire size and fender clearance should be considered. I ride 28mm tires with heavy-duty tubes and it gives a decent ride and is fairly bullet-proof plus I had plenty of room to install fenders. Wouldn't want to do my commute on 23mm tires.

As you are looking to buy a bike, why not get one with braze-ons for rack mounting (at least in the rear)? It will give you more options down the road if your situation changes and you decide to go back to panniers.

Don't go for a "racing" wheelset unless your commute is on really nice roads. I have to cross numerous railroad tracks and hit lots of potholes on my commute and it takes a beefier wheelset to handle that well.

Lastly, don't get a bike with a serious saddle to bar drop. Riding in traffic is easier when you're sitting a little more upright. You'll still have the drops if you need to beat the wind.

Narrow tires and cracks in pavement...

Others have suggested that drop bars can be an issue and while I somewhat agree, this can be fixed by adding a second set of brake levers so when you ride on the bar tops in traffic, you can see better and stop quickly. Drop bars are otherwise quite nice if your commute is longish.

There are pros and cons to every style of bike and it mostly comes down to what makes the ride enjoyable for you. You can put fenders on any bike even with tight clearances. If you don't want panniers then that is not an issue. To me that leaves road quality. The worse the roads, the less fun skinny tires are. A CX or touring bike gives you drops with the flexibility of running wider tires if your roads aren't so great.

I use 23 mm tires on my commute. I like em. The roads are decent though. If they weren't I might have to use a different bike. I have seen full fledged road bikes with a suspension of sorts between the seat stays and seat post. I was on a group ride with a guy that had one. He had back trouble and he said it was the suspension that allowed him to take up road bikes again. Something like that may be an alternative to a bike with wider tires.

As far as urban commutes and drops go, well, I'm among those that doesn't really see a problem. There are people that commute on recumbents and they're sitting a lot lower than you are no matter what kind of handlebars you use. Your head will be higher than those in most cars. When you're riding on the hoods you're probably as high as you would be on many MTBs.

I second everything CACycling said. I commute year-round and contend with wet, slushy roads all winter long. I wouldn't be without full-coverage fenders. And the streets are gouged with potholes and railroad tracks. Under these conditions, 23s seem to have nothing to recommend them: less durable and reliable, and arguably slower, all things considered, than fatter tires.
Rumrunn6 suggests that a raised bar is desirable. I'm sure it's no drawback; on a short commute, it isn't clearly beneficial to have several available hand positions. I use drops only because I love 'em. But I'm tall, so I'm at no particular disadvantage in peering over cars.

It's the only kind of bike I commute on. One with fenders for the winter/rainy season, one without fenders during the summer months. If you're comfortable on a road bike/racing bike, go for it.

I don't feel like road surface quality is an issue on my racing bike - I ride it over a draw bridge's metal grid midsection with one square inch holes. It's a bit unnerving, but it handles it just fine. My point is, I don't know that road surface quality is all that important - if the road is paved a racing bike is good to go. Just look at the Roubaix race in Paris every year - expensive racing bikes on sand covered cobblestones - yikes!

To me the issue is more about commuting distance and weather elements than it is about road surface. The only time I ride my road bike in the rain is if I get caught in it unexpectedly. If it is raining on a road biking day, I stay home. Riding in the rain on 23MM tires with no fenders is just not my idea of fun. In the rain, you are much more safe and comfortable on 28MM tires, and fenders are a necessity.

As for the distance factor: for 10 miles or less, wearing a backpack is fine. When I moved and went to a 19 mile commute, the backpack became unbearable so I switched to a touring bike with 28MM tires, full fendiers, and panniers. For the longer distance, it is nice to get down on the drops and out of the wind, and not have the backpack making your shoulders sore.

A significant drawback in New York is bashing the crap out of your slick race rims on New York potholed pavement... Don't ask me how I know this :notamused:


.

I commute on road bikes, and on my race bike a couple days a week, and I don't have problems riding in heavy traffic. Maybe on crappy roads a road bike would suck. I have to carry a lot of junk with me, as an art student, but even if I use panniers I do things in pretty much the same way as how I do things with my messenger bag.

Bikesdirect bikes come with holes for racks and such, if you're thinking of that

an Xtracycle would be ideal

Bikesdirect bikes come with holes for racks and such, if you're thinking of that
.l
So do most others without the shill factor :P

if the road is paved a racing bike is good to go.
I sure wish this were true of my local roads. But in my fair city, the streets are constantly being gouged out, torn up, repatched, and plated in ways that are merciless to bikes. This, plus the damage that winter freezes and thaws typically wreak upon asphalt, results in street surfaces that don't quite deserve to be called "paved." (It's so bad where I live it's almost funny; I mean, the streets of West Harlem and northern Manhattan, where I used to ride, are velodrome-smooth by comparison.) And the guys who race on the cobbles of Roubaix don't need to worry about saving their bikes for the next season.
I was so surprised at the improvement in comfort and handling when I swapped out my 26s for 32s (and then 35s) that as long as I'm commuting on *these* streets, I wouldn't seriously consider going skinny again.

So do most others without the shill factor :P


I meant the road bikes, my bad

I love my road bike for commuting. Skinny tires are less forgiving for bad road surfaces (especially after dark when you can't see well) and may get more flats. But if your commute surfaces are smooth and clean - rock on! Be sure to baby the corners on rainy or foggy days! Stay off the manhole covers and any other steel surfaces if you can.

Tire clearance would be a factor for modern road bikes. That's what I am facing with my DBR Podium. Too d@mn precision designed! I wanted to use wider 28c. However it only clears the front brakes. Not the rears. However if you ride on smooth clean roads, then no problem commuting with 23c. Sadly that is not the case for me.
If you ever get tired of using the backpack, a set of P-Clamps will easily accommodate a rear rack.

Use what you want. It sounds like you've been commuting for a while so you have a good idea of what you need or don't need in a bike. Plus if you buy a bike and its not meeting your standards, then buy another one. This will help you solve the infamous (n+1) equation.

Wondering if there any commuter caveats I need to watch out for if I decide to get a racing roadbike for commute purposes.

I'm familiar with road bikes (I have a racing road bike) but have been using a cheap mtn bike for commuting, and don't use panniers anymore since they were too much of a pain to lug around all day long (I'm on the move at work.)

Hmm..

Bumpy ride from small tires
Bumpy ride from short chainstay
Twitchy handling may result in crashing after hitting a pothole.
Position does not allow you to view traffic well
Being on the drops may make you less visible.
Being on the drops to brake may get annoying, so you'll probably want a cross-lever.
Lightweight expensive components may get worn out... i thinking low spoke count wheels.

On the other hand, it will be faster by a few mph than a hybrid :)

Oh yeah, fender compatible?

Commuted for 16 years on a road bike (drop bars). Had rack in back to carry lunch/etc.
Rode my good racing bike on days off.

Hmm..

Bumpy ride from small tires
Bumpy ride from short chainstay



Definitely a problem if your commute is on bumpy roads, but if not...



Twitchy handling may result in crashing after hitting a pothole.



Well maybe... On the other hand, quick handling may help you avoid that pothole or other hazard including vehicles




Position does not allow you to view traffic well



How different do you think riding on the hoods on a road bike is from your position on a mountain bike? Is it really so different that you suddenly are going to miss whole vehicles? Even in the drops I can see over most cars.




Being on the drops may make you less visible.



Being in the drops is completely optional. Besides have you seen what roadies wear? Guarantee they're more visible than a typical dude on a hybrid.




Being on the drops to brake may get annoying, so you'll probably want a cross-lever.



You may want a cross-lever but you certainly don't have to be in the drops to brake if you don't have one. The hoods work great. The nice thing about having multiple hand positions is that if one does get annoying, you can switch.




Lightweight expensive components may get worn out... i thinking low spoke count wheels.



Don't get low spoke count wheels.




On the other hand, it will be faster by a few mph than a hybrid :)



The nice thing about being able to go faster in traffic is minimizing the speed differential. To me moving at or close to the same speed as traffic is safer. This is something I can do on road bike in an urban environment. Motorists feel less compelled to try and squeeze by me (though some still do).




Oh yeah, fender compatible?

You can put fenders on virtually any bike including road bikes.

I've done most of my commuting on a road-racing style bike. I agree that upright bars are better for seeing around you. But drop bars are OK if reaching the brakes isn't too inconvenient.

I don't bend rims often, and I'm accustomed to the hard ride that narrow tires give. I haven't found fat-tire bikes to be appealing. It's a matter of taste.

Hmm..

Bumpy ride from small tires
Bumpy ride from short chainstay
Twitchy handling may result in crashing after hitting a pothole.
Position does not allow you to view traffic well
Being on the drops may make you less visible.
Being on the drops to brake may get annoying, so you'll probably want a cross-lever.
Lightweight expensive components may get worn out... i thinking low spoke count wheels.

On the other hand, it will be faster by a few mph than a hybrid :)

Oh yeah, fender compatible?
It sounds like you haven't ridden a road bike with drop bars.

I commute on a cross bike with road style geometry and drop bars, and I can't imagine doing it on anything else. I deal with a 20 mph headwind on a regular basis and the drop bars allow me to reduce my drag by a significant amount. It is also able to handle wider tires, I run 28s with full fenders and it came stock with a beefier wheelset. Its no road bike thats for sure, weighs in at about 24lbs, but I wouldn't trade it for anything

My biggest fear used to be theft, that is until I convinced my employer to let me bring it inside into my office.

I commuted for over 2 years on a racing-style Italian road bike. You definitely can make it work, but as with anything, there are compromises. If you can find a frame with eyelets for fenders and room for slightly larger tires, that would be a big plus. I commuted on a De Bernardi frame with tight clearances and no room for fenders, but I still managed to squeeze 28 mm Panaracer Pasela tires on it, although I went back to using Michelin 23s. I used clip-on SKS RaceBlade fenders when rain was a threat. I've also occassionally commuted on my Merckx Corsa. In both cases, I carried my gear in a Carradice Barley seatbag, which requires no rear rack or mounts.

I've since acquired a Bob Jackson touring bike that I use for commuting. It is slower and not as fun to ride as the racing frames, but much easier to carry gear. It also has mounts for racks and fenders. However, I still ride one of my racing bikes to work on occasions.

The tires you use depends a lot on your route. The roads on my route are relatively good, as long as I avoid a few potholes, and I have had no trouble commuting on 23-25 mm tires. I've put 28s on my touring bike, mainly because it has room for them and tires I'm using (Conti 4 Seasons) are pretty light.

I've got three road bikes. One is my primary commuter and was originally a hybrid. It usually wears 28c tires but will go to 38c if my dirt commute gets really muddy. Another is a Peugeot fixed gear with 27X1-1/4 tires, and the last is a Schwinn World Tourist converted to drops and 27" rims (although I'm building a set of 700 rims to fit 700X23's).

Here's some real-world info to think about if you are going to go with a road bike:

When I ride my Phillips 3 speed (590X37 tires, appx 38 lbs), it takes me about 45-50 minutes to commute my kinda rough 7.5 miles.
When I ride my Univega with its 28c tires, I can skate along and finish it in about 35 minutes (my record is 32 minutes).
The same bike with 38's (no change otherwise) will slow my time by 10 minutes.
The Peugeot (32c) is about as fast.
the Schwinn with a set of 23c tires takes me about 45 minutes because, while I can fly on the pavement, once the road turns dirt, I need to creep to protect the wheels.


IMO, it's not worth it to ride anything less than 28c tires, unless you're riding a glass-smooth road. I adore the feel of 32c, but anything wider than that feels like I'm rolling a tank. Just not worth it.

Another thing to consider - all of my bikes are set up so that the top of the drop bars is at about saddle height. I find that if it gets much lower than that, I get cramps in my hands (between thumb and forefinger) and back if I'm in the saddle for more than 25 miles or so.


If you can find a bike that fits 28c and fenders and is comfy for the long haul, i don't see a problem with it. Just make sure it's comfortable, reliable, and not annoying.

Ride whatever you want/have; commuting just wears parts faster. I generally don't ride my nice road bike in wet weather or crappy streets. With same mileage, my chain wears out about x2 as fast. I maintain them about the same. Also, I just wore out my front rim breaking surface and realized that my rear has cracks in it.

The one equipment drawback is the lack of most road racing frames accommodating fenders, which I think are crucial for riding in all weather conditions.

I don't have any trouble riding my road bike for the commute. Granted I don't ride in all weather conditions such as snow so I don't think to much about fenders. Depending on how you commute you can pick the best bike for the ride. If this is the difference between riding or not, go for it.

Another point: the narrower your tires are, the more alert you have to be. I'd say that avoiding bad bumps etc uses energy, so the bike with the lowest rolling resistance isn't necessarily the bike that leaves you the least fatigued. Still, I make that tradeoff often, just because I don't mind being that alert, and I like a narrow-tire bike. Mind you, I'm talking about 25-32mm width tires when I say narrow. I rarely ride narrower than that. That's not to my taste.

No problem for me -- I've been road-bike commuting for a number of years, on a LeMond Zurich.

I did squeeze on some fatter tires -- 25s at first, now 28s. I'd recommend it.

Also running 32-spoke wheels ... nice and smooth.

It helps that where I live we don't have potholes -- No kidding! -- thanks to good weather (we don't get long freezes) and good city government.

No fenders -- that's a setback if you ride in the rain. I don't do that, except when Ma N. springs one on me.

I think we're stuck on the handlebar issue too much. Drop bars, like flat bars, can be set to any height the user prefers.

The only concern I've had with 23C tires is road cracks in low-light conditions, especially in the rain.

[QUOTE=electrik;10443652
Twitchy handling may result in crashing after hitting a pothole.
[/QUOTE]

Do not be confused with lively handling prowess with twitchy.
Sports car handles better than your average family sedan because they are tuned to be responsive to driver input. Likewise with road bikes over the other bikes.
OP should try it out first. If it doesn't work out, there are other options to go for.

I think we're stuck on the handlebar issue too much. Drop bars, like flat bars, can be set to any height the user prefers.

The only concern I've had with 23C tires is road cracks in low-light conditions, especially in the rain.


The biggest problem that I see with modern road bikes is that it seems people tend to buy smaller bikes than they typically would on for commuters For instance, my bikes range from 58 to 62 cm c-c seat tubes, but people in my bike club my height would typically be riding 54-56 with lots of seat post sticking out. If you get a bike that's smaller and raise the handlebars, you are decreasing the effective top tube (from bars to saddle) by a lot, depending on the height of the components relative to the frame. If I had a 54cm frame and I jacked the bars up high enough to be comfy for me, there wouldn't be a whole lot of space between the saddle and bars, truth be told.

The biggest problem that I see with modern road bikes is that it seems people tend to buy smaller bikes than they typically would on for commuters For instance, my bikes range from 58 to 62 cm c-c seat tubes, but people in my bike club my height would typically be riding 54-56 with lots of seat post sticking out. If you get a bike that's smaller and raise the handlebars, you are decreasing the effective top tube (from bars to saddle) by a lot, depending on the height of the components relative to the frame. If I had a 54cm frame and I jacked the bars up high enough to be comfy for me, there wouldn't be a whole lot of space between the saddle and bars, truth be told.

It would depend on the seat tube angle relative to the head tube angle wouldn't it? By moving the seat up, you are also moving it back. If the head and seat tube angles are the same, and you raise the handlebars and the seat the same amount, the space between the seat and handlebars doesnt change.

I think we're stuck on the handlebar issue too much. Drop bars, like flat bars, can be set to any height the user prefers.

I disagree. Upright bars are also wider, which is more relaxed, i.e. less than optimal for maximum effort but also more agile for looking and turning at the same time.


The only concern I've had with 23C tires is road cracks in low-light conditions, especially in the rain.

Agreed.

Sports car handles better than your average family sedan ... Likewise with road bikes over the other bikes.
But first we need to say what a sports car's handling, or a road (racing?) bike's handling, is better for. I doubt I'd want to haul my family around in a vehicle that handles like an F1 car. My Subaru Outback, and my Cross-Check commuter, have precisely the kind of the handling "prowess" that suits them for the kinds of uses to which they're put. Given my driver/rider "inputs," at least, these machines are perfectly responsive. Do crit or track or other racing bikes handle better for commuting in traffic? Not in any obvious way, I think. But plenty of people find them more fun to ride; and for the OP, that might be a relevant consideration.

I disagree. Upright bars are also wider, which is more relaxed, i.e. less than optimal for maximum effort but also more agile for looking and turning at the same time.


How are wider bars more agile for turning and looking at the same time?

Narrow bars require less movement before the bike starts to turn. In practice I'm not sure how much difference it makes either way. As long as the roads are decent (not slippery) and I'm moving at a decent clip, I turn the bars very little regardless of whether I'm using flats or drops. A good part of cornering is accomplished through leaning. It's only when I'm moving slowly that I need to turn the bars very much in order to corner.

You can also get drop bars in varying widths including some that flair out even further at the drops. The latter are favored for offroad use.

But first we need to say what a sports car's handling, or a road (racing?) bike's handling, is better for. I doubt I'd want to haul my family around in a vehicle that handles like an F1 car.

You probably wouldn't want to drive your family around in an F1. But I don't necessarily want to drive a minivan to work either given the choice. Thankfully those aren't the only choices. Same for bikes. There are options for sporty road bikes besides a Trek Madone or a Cervelo.

And there just might be some advantages to a crit bike in traffic. After all crits are run on streets in close quarters with other bikes. A crash is always possible so good handling, braking, and acceleration are a must.

I disagree. Upright bars are also wider, which is more relaxed, i.e. less than optimal for maximum effort but also more agile for looking and turning at the same time.



They usually are, but they don't have to be. As I've said, the riding position on my mountain bike, 'cross bike, and road bike (when it existed) were pretty much the same.

My flat bars are pretty narrow (XC mountain bike bars), although wider than the drop bars on my cross bike, which I think are 44s. Most road bikes come stock with 42s or 44s, but again, there is nothing to say you can't buy a set of 46s (or 48s if you can find them). Riser bars are of course even wider, but I only tend to think of using that kind of leverage for DH and freeride mountain bike applications... there is no reason you couldn't have wide bars for commuting, as long as there are no.... narrow gates(?) on your route.

And there just might be some advantages to a crit bike in traffic. After all crits are run on streets in close quarters with other bikes. A crash is always possible so good handling, braking, and acceleration are a must.

With all respect, I find this doubtful. The streets I ride are as crazy as any one is likely to encounter. (I commute in Boston, so I feel fully entitled to that assertion.) Fully loaded, my bike weighs 40+ lbs. I run cantilever brakes and a single-speed drivetrain, so I'm a relatively slow stopper and starter. During rush hour, the streets, with surfaces that look as though they belong in a demilitarized zone, are overrun with cyclists wobbling and swaying to and fro. I've been involved in close calls, some involving poor judgment on my part. But I've never thought "If only my bike were nimbler." Other people will no doubt cite anecdotal evidence to the contrary. But my own experience suggests that "handling prowess" lies in the head, not in what's between your legs.

But first we need to say what a sports car's handling, or a road (racing?) bike's handling, is better for. I doubt I'd want to haul my family around in a vehicle that handles like an F1 car. My Subaru Outback, and my Cross-Check commuter, have precisely the kind of the handling "prowess" that suits them for the kinds of uses to which they're put. Given my driver/rider "inputs," at least, these machines are perfectly responsive. Do crit or track or other racing bikes handle better for commuting in traffic? Not in any obvious way, I think. But plenty of people find them more fun to ride; and for the OP, that might be a relevant consideration.

A road bike design philosophy is similar to that of a Honda S2000 design philosophy. Fast, handles great and responsive. Is it practical? Not as much as your Outback. But will it get one to work? Yup. And likewise, if the OP's commuting route is smooth and not broken (as was cautioned by most posters including myself), a road bike like the S2000 will be a fun vehicle to use for commuting.
Your riding conditions may not suit that of a roadbike. But that is just your condition. Not everyone. But that doesn't take away the fact that road bikes are designed to be more responsive than other bikes.

With all respect, I find this doubtful. The streets I ride are as crazy as any one is likely to encounter. (I commute in Boston, so I feel fully entitled to that assertion.) Fully loaded, my bike weighs 40+ lbs. I run cantilever brakes and a single-speed drivetrain, so I'm a relatively slow stopper and starter. During rush hour, the streets, with surfaces that look as though they belong in a demilitarized zone, are overrun with cyclists wobbling and swaying to and fro. I've been involved in close calls, some involving poor judgment on my part. But I've never thought "If only my bike were nimbler." Other people will no doubt cite anecdotal evidence to the contrary. But my own experience suggests that "handling prowess" lies in the head, not in what's between your legs.

Mostly I'm just arguing with people who asserting that flat bar bikes are better in traffic. I doubt that in practice there's a significant difference either way. There probably are particular situations where one would be better than the other but my commute like many others potentially involves all kinds of situations.

I used to commute on a flat bar MTB. I switched to a road bike when I got talked into doing a triathlon and decided to use my commute for added training. Even though years I had used the same road bike for periodic commutes, suddenly I was fearful of riding the road bike again, - on the road, - in traffic. Mostly it was the idea of skinny tires and skinny rims that freaked me out. I was used to big fat ones. I was sure that I'd get a wheel wedged in some crack or the bike (and me) would get done in by some pothole.

Turned out I was worried about nothing and I quickly began to prefer the road bike. I converted my MTB to drops this last fall (dirt drops more accurately) but I rode it with flat bars periodically throughout the summer and fall. The bikes feel and ride a lot differently but when riding with flat bars I never once thought "Wow, I can see so much better" or "Wow, this is so much more stable". The MTB had knobbies on so my first reaction beyond just feeling different was "Wow, this is so much noisier and slower". Now, it probably wasn't really that much slower, but it felt like it. There are things I appreciate about it including the cushier ride and it is fun to change things up, but overall for street use I prefer a road bike.

Bad roads are not a great place for a skinny tired road bike, that much I agree with. The rest not so much.

It would depend on the seat tube angle relative to the head tube angle wouldn't it? By moving the seat up, you are also moving it back. If the head and seat tube angles are the same, and you raise the handlebars and the seat the same amount, the space between the seat and handlebars doesnt change.


I agree with you. However, say that you have a bike with the seat 25" from the crank spindle. That isn't going to change much from bike to bike (matter of fact, looking at all my bikes hanging, the seat position only shifts about 1" between a 56-62cm frame and drops or upright bars). But, if you have the height set at 25" and your bars are 4" below the saddle, when you raise them to be level with the saddle, you are effectively shifting the handlebars back relative to the saddle, right? As the seat doesn't move and the bars do, they come closer. Once you hit a certain amount of bar height on a given frame, you have geometry that is too tight on the top end, relative to leg length.

My only current bicycle is a Giant OCR1, which is pretty race-ish. Currently I use 25mm racing tires, and I commute every day and use it as my primary form of transportation. I love how fast and maneuverable it is for riding around the city, while still being comfortable.

The key, for me, is the bag I use. A Pac Designs Ultimate. The bag is what allows me to go grocery shopping and haul crap around comfortably and easily. Your needs will probably be different, but finding a bag that works for you is essential if you don't use panniers. I tried panniers on my OCR, and they made it terribly unstable in descents and a pain in the butt to haul up and down stairs.

The downside is definitely not being able to use wider tires. If I knew what I know now when I bought my OCR, I probably would have bought something more tour-ish, like a Jamis Aurora. That way I would at least have the option of using panniers, wider and possibly studded tires.

I agree with you. However, say that you have a bike with the seat 25" from the crank spindle. That isn't going to change much from bike to bike (matter of fact, looking at all my bikes hanging, the seat position only shifts about 1" between a 56-62cm frame and drops or upright bars). But, if you have the height set at 25" and your bars are 4" below the saddle, when you raise them to be level with the saddle, you are effectively shifting the handlebars back relative to the saddle, right? As the seat doesn't move and the bars do, they come closer. Once you hit a certain amount of bar height on a given frame, you have geometry that is too tight on the top end, relative to leg length.

I agree that a larger framed bike has a longer top tube than a smaller framed bike of the same type. ;)

With all respect, I find this doubtful. The streets I ride are as crazy as any one is likely to encounter. (I commute in Boston, so I feel fully entitled to that assertion.) Fully loaded, my bike weighs 40+ lbs. I run cantilever brakes and a single-speed drivetrain, so I'm a relatively slow stopper and starter. During rush hour, the streets, with surfaces that look as though they belong in a demilitarized zone, are overrun with cyclists wobbling and swaying to and fro. I've been involved in close calls, some involving poor judgment on my part. But I've never thought "If only my bike were nimbler." Other people will no doubt cite anecdotal evidence to the contrary. But my own experience suggests that "handling prowess" lies in the head, not in what's between your legs.

Without deciding whether I agree or disagree with you, I have resolutely decided you're an excellent writer. You gave me a lot of chuckles there, with just your style.

... road bikes are designed to be more responsive than other bikes.
I can't agree or disagree with this unless we specify the riding conditions. What I claim is that under the conditions one encounters in congested urban settings, racing bikes are responsive in ways that do not facilitate commuting. I do not claim that a racing bike will necessarily work to a commuter's detriment.

So it seems to me that the issue of handling is a distraction from the OP's question, which is whether a racing bike does bring drawbacks to commuting. If the OP rides in sunny weather and on good, smooth roads, then no. Otherwise, he might well be happier with the option of installing full-coverage fenders and fatter tires. These are utilitarian considerations. Questions of "handling prowess," on the other hand, are not. Sharper handling confers no evident benefit for commuters.

Definitely a problem if your commute is on bumpy roads, but if not...

Most roads are bumpy, in a perfect world they would be smooth like butter. You will be lucky around here to find a nice stretch of pavement.. but sometimes it is interspersed with horrible sections.


Well maybe... On the other hand, quick handling may help you avoid that pothole or other hazard including vehicles

Most of the time you can't veer into the lane. Eventually you have to go over dead racoons, gravel washouts and potholes. This is where big tires and slack head angles come into play.


How different do you think riding on the hoods on a road bike is from your position on a mountain bike? Is it really so different that you suddenly are going to miss whole vehicles? Even in the drops I can see over most cars.

It is different, being upright allows your neck and shoulders to be relaxed and your head higher up.


Being in the drops is completely optional. Besides have you seen what roadies wear? Guarantee they're more visible than a typical dude on a hybrid.

Most people don't commute in a kit, just standard clothing. If everything is the same the upright rider is more visible. Bike ninjas not included. ;)


You may want a cross-lever but you certainly don't have to be in the drops to brake if you don't have one. The hoods work great. The nice thing about having multiple hand positions is that if one does get annoying, you can switch.

Yes, it makes life easier to have a cross lever. Though one may have to find somewhere else to mount lights and computers.


Don't get low spoke count wheels.

Good idea, but many road bikes out there come with low spoke count wheels and soft rims.


The nice thing about being able to go faster in traffic is minimizing the speed differential. To me moving at or close to the same speed as traffic is safer. This is something I can do on road bike in an urban environment. Motorists feel less compelled to try and squeeze by me (though some still do).

It is very true that the less relative difference in speed the safer you are. Having said that though, road bikes aren't inherently that much faster than hybrids - esp hybrids with drops!


You can put fenders on virtually any bike including road bikes.
You can put fenders on your cat, but getting the fenders right can be a real pain and may involve customization and coroplast. :rolleyes:

Anyways... these are some of the downsides of the road bicycle as commuter. Not intended as a list of why you can't ride one as a commuter... because you totally could and lots of people love it.

FWIW, quality 80s steel road bikes make fantastic commuters. Road geometry, steel frame, and 700x25 or 700x28 tires make for a fast, yet smooth ride. Wind+drops=less suckage. Mine has eyelets to boot for my rack and panniers. I could put fenders on if not for my 27" wheels, but I have a hybrid for conditions that would require fenders.

Also, I think the discussion re: nimbleness, better visibility, etc is a bit silly. You either want to go fast (efficiently) or not. You want fenders and/or a rack or not. You want the option for fatter tires or not. Based on which of those you need/want, you will be directed to a road, cyclocross, hybrid, etc. Personally, a road bike with eyelets works best for my commute the majority of the time, and the hybrid covers the exceptions.

I think the OP should just do it and find out for himself if there is any drawbacks. I used to commute on a 'cross bike and used a backpack. Drop bars were lower than the saddle and I didn't find any drawbacks.

Maybe because I didn't carry a bunch of useless crap. Just a small tool/patch kit, spare 'tube, frame pump, headlight, jacket and lunch.

I use to think hybrids and Converted mountains were the way to go.

My XL (22inch frame) M400 mountain bike with 2 inch riser bars AND a 50mm extension the bars are still lower then my 63cm T700 touring bike is when I am on the hoods.

The ONLY advantage to a MTB for commuting is if you have rough streets, go off paves surfaces and like bouncing curbs.

I go farther, faster, with less fatigue carrying more weight on my Touring bike then I ever though about going on my mountain bike with street friendly tires.