Chris L
Quick question. How do those of you who actually get winters keep your feet warm? The question's been bugging me since Mt Wellington in Tasmania last January.
Feet
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cyclezealot
When the morning is in the 40's, ( about 5 C.?) I have some neopreme booties.They work well...Shoe covers for about 10 C. Colder than that , I would have to move elsewhere.
Juha
I stop using clipless at around 0C. Below that it is platforms and GoreTex hiking boots for me. I've got two pairs, lighter version by Salomon and heavier by Halti. The latter will keep my feet nice and warm down to 25C-30C below (without wind chill) which is about all I need.
--J
--J
bac
Quick question. How do those of you who actually get winters keep your feet warm? The question's been bugging me since Mt Wellington in Tasmania last January.
A pair of Lake MXZ300 shoes, AND toe warmers. I have cycled @ below zero Fahrenheit with this set-up, and my feet have never been even the least bit cold. The shoes are warm, but are also great for keeping the snow/slush out.
A pair of Lake MXZ300 shoes, AND toe warmers. I have cycled @ below zero Fahrenheit with this set-up, and my feet have never been even the least bit cold. The shoes are warm, but are also great for keeping the snow/slush out.
mirona
I use some neoprene covers to keep out the wind and wet and wear wool socks wrapped in aluminum foil to keep in the warm. If it's especially cold I use neoprene insoles that I made.
DanFromDetroit
Big Ugly Green (BUG) boots. These are made out of green rubber and have Thinsulate linings. I use toe-clips with them.
If you wanted to keep your cycling shoes, you could try something like this (http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=10114) from www.campmor.com. You might have to make a cut-out to accomodate the clips though.
Dan
If you wanted to keep your cycling shoes, you could try something like this (http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=10114) from www.campmor.com. You might have to make a cut-out to accomodate the clips though.
Dan
MichaelW
It makes a big difference if you are talking dry or wet cold.
You need winter footwear, bigger than your summer shoes, for extra sock space.
Some people like to let the water inside their shoes, and use gortex socks, or neoprene overshoes. Personally I like to keep water outside.
Woolen hiking socks work well. Lightweight trail shoes/boots are good, but often I just wear running shoes with extra socks. The ideal cold/wet boot is fairly high to fit underneath rain pants, but it doesnt need thick padding around your ankles. Im still looking for it.
If I get caught in cold rain sometimes I just wear the plastic bags that I carry in my pannier, inbetween socks and shoes.
You need winter footwear, bigger than your summer shoes, for extra sock space.
Some people like to let the water inside their shoes, and use gortex socks, or neoprene overshoes. Personally I like to keep water outside.
Woolen hiking socks work well. Lightweight trail shoes/boots are good, but often I just wear running shoes with extra socks. The ideal cold/wet boot is fairly high to fit underneath rain pants, but it doesnt need thick padding around your ankles. Im still looking for it.
If I get caught in cold rain sometimes I just wear the plastic bags that I carry in my pannier, inbetween socks and shoes.
Applehead57
Neoprene booties when I think about what I'm doing.
Plastic bags between shoes & socks, when I don't.
Plastic bags between shoes & socks, when I don't.
Gojohnnygo.
Don't forget to wiggle your toes when they start to feel cold (Keeps the blood moving to them) If it's really cold uncilp one foot and shake your leg in a downward movement to force blood into them. This helps.
capsicum
Good full grain leather workboots with about 9" tops with wool/acrilic blend boot socks.
If oiled/greased once a week, or month - depends on conditions, they are very waterproof and the tops are high enough to go under pants, they also breathe quite well(the original goretex but much more durable). Around $200-$300 american but I have got 9 years out of my current pair including many miles of hiking and several hundred days of digging, mowing, and generally slogging around in the mud, dust and snow, not to mention motorcycling in all wether.
I am very bad about greasing regularly so they get stiff and now the seems are just starting to let go because of it.(a cobbler could easly fix em but I'd like a slightly different style anyway[lower heel, maybe steel toe])
If oiled/greased once a week, or month - depends on conditions, they are very waterproof and the tops are high enough to go under pants, they also breathe quite well(the original goretex but much more durable). Around $200-$300 american but I have got 9 years out of my current pair including many miles of hiking and several hundred days of digging, mowing, and generally slogging around in the mud, dust and snow, not to mention motorcycling in all wether.
I am very bad about greasing regularly so they get stiff and now the seems are just starting to let go because of it.(a cobbler could easly fix em but I'd like a slightly different style anyway[lower heel, maybe steel toe])
Daily Commute
Neopreme booties + wool socks can get me to somewhere between 7-10 degrees F, even with normal, summer bike shoes. I haven't had to deal with worse. Get the kind of wool socks you can use without having to put cotton socks on underneath.
Rowan
My current set-up, in what has been a very chilly winter, is a pair of woven wool sox* with another thin pair of polypro socks over the top. Good for down to Mt Wellington weather -- 0 deg or thereabouts. If its looks like getting below that and/or rainy, on go a recent purchase -- neoprene booties (BBB brand).
I can't remember the type of shoes you wear, but one of the problems with choosing suitable winter shoes in Oz is that many have open weave fabric panels that allow the cool air in. I've had three pairs of Shimanos like that. And because your feet inevitably sweat, your feet get colder and colder because of the evaporation as the air flows through. Hence the usefulness of the neoprene booties.
The system was really tested out on a recent ride from Strahan to Hobart in a day. There was one spot prior to Mt Arrowsmith that was deadly cold with fog. Toes were fine. Fingers aches like hell.
I've sometimes wondered about waterproof leather hiking boots (Blunnies) with a bit of work done to get the clipless cleat in there, but it just seems like too much trouble. Much easier to change clipless pedals for strapped ones.
*Obviously your shoes need to be big enough to take the extra layer. In addition, I avoid the Explorer type socks that have the loop pile in the soles. Try to get woollen socks that look the same whether they are right side or inside out. I think they retain their warmth efficiency wash after wash after wash...
By the way, I think I warned you about Wellington...
I can't remember the type of shoes you wear, but one of the problems with choosing suitable winter shoes in Oz is that many have open weave fabric panels that allow the cool air in. I've had three pairs of Shimanos like that. And because your feet inevitably sweat, your feet get colder and colder because of the evaporation as the air flows through. Hence the usefulness of the neoprene booties.
The system was really tested out on a recent ride from Strahan to Hobart in a day. There was one spot prior to Mt Arrowsmith that was deadly cold with fog. Toes were fine. Fingers aches like hell.
I've sometimes wondered about waterproof leather hiking boots (Blunnies) with a bit of work done to get the clipless cleat in there, but it just seems like too much trouble. Much easier to change clipless pedals for strapped ones.
*Obviously your shoes need to be big enough to take the extra layer. In addition, I avoid the Explorer type socks that have the loop pile in the soles. Try to get woollen socks that look the same whether they are right side or inside out. I think they retain their warmth efficiency wash after wash after wash...
By the way, I think I warned you about Wellington...
Chris L
By the way, I think I warned you about Wellington...
:lol: I think you warned me about a lot of things, Wellington, the "roads" in the North-East, and possibly even the "water" at Queenstown (although I took your advice on that one and stuck to the bottled stuff). About the only thing you didn't warn me about was the thieving possum!
Thanks for the advice everyone. The Neoprene booties seem to be popular, but I think I'll also look into some spankily warm socks as well.
:lol: I think you warned me about a lot of things, Wellington, the "roads" in the North-East, and possibly even the "water" at Queenstown (although I took your advice on that one and stuck to the bottled stuff). About the only thing you didn't warn me about was the thieving possum!
Thanks for the advice everyone. The Neoprene booties seem to be popular, but I think I'll also look into some spankily warm socks as well.
Dusk
I'm in Minnesota and ride all year. The clipless pedal and shoe combo an be a problem. The Road spds don’t chill my feet like the larger MTB SDPs I have must be surface area. I will cycle down to about 0 F. At about 50 - 40 I will put a light wind cover over the shoe. In the 30's to the teens I put a cotton or light wool sock over the wicking sock and move to a light weight Neoprenes hoe cover. Last year below 15 I just didn't ride for more that 45 minutes. So this year I bought a heavier Neoprene set of shoe covers that should help a lot. I also came across an ad for an insulating insole that is suppose to add warmth. Now if I could just remember where I stuck that ad…
Cheers
Cheers
Michel Gagnon
I don'T have cold feet, but regular cycling shoes with 2 pairs of socks keep me warm down to 0 to -5 C. Below that, or in sleet, Lake MXZ300 footwear has been great down to -15 C (almost indefinitely) or -25 (for 30-60 minutes)
temp1
Wool socks and summer shoes down to freezing, below that I add neoprene shoe covers. That and lots of toe wiggling.
norssseman
Either two or three pair of socks, combined with neoprene booties, and battery
operated sock warmers(D cell), and you can't use rechargeable batteries...they
just don't warm like alkaline batt's.
operated sock warmers(D cell), and you can't use rechargeable batteries...they
just don't warm like alkaline batt's.
Swiss Hoser
Quick question. How do those of you who actually get winters keep your feet warm?
Chris, the solution for me was to leave Canada and move to Europe. Haven't had cold feet since.
Chris, the solution for me was to leave Canada and move to Europe. Haven't had cold feet since.
Juha
Chris, the solution for me was to leave Canada and move to Europe. Haven't had cold feet since.
Actually, you moved to Central Europe (where it's all warm and cozy for most of the time) :D.
--J
Actually, you moved to Central Europe (where it's all warm and cozy for most of the time) :D.
--J
Baz
My tricks:
To about -4 Celcius I just put on warm socks and duct tape over the vents in my bike shoes. I leave the duct tape on all winter.
To about -15 I use SPD compatible rain cover and an extra pair of socks (thin polypro liners under my wool socks)
To about -23 I add extra neoprene insoles to my shoes, sometimes I stuff the rain covers with extra insulation.
Any colder and I swap to platforms and wear big Sorrel snowboots.
It's a process...
To about -4 Celcius I just put on warm socks and duct tape over the vents in my bike shoes. I leave the duct tape on all winter.
To about -15 I use SPD compatible rain cover and an extra pair of socks (thin polypro liners under my wool socks)
To about -23 I add extra neoprene insoles to my shoes, sometimes I stuff the rain covers with extra insulation.
Any colder and I swap to platforms and wear big Sorrel snowboots.
It's a process...
Balance
This is for Ottawa: I tried the neoprene covers with my clipless shoes/pedals setup, but found that, like neoprene gloves, the comfort range was too small. Early in the winter I switch to flats with clips and wear running shoes with warm socks. Eventually I take the clips and straps off and wear -75c rated sorrel boots. They weigh a ton and I walk like sasquatch, but I never ever get cold feet :)
-=solewheelin
smartwool socks (or thick acrylic socks)
your normal decent weather bike shoes
and yes..
Totes rubbers
surprising that noone has brought this up, their very durable!
just slice a hole to expose the cleats and you should be toasty in the 30F zone
just leave the toes some wiggle space
-=steve
your normal decent weather bike shoes
and yes..
Totes rubbers
surprising that noone has brought this up, their very durable!
just slice a hole to expose the cleats and you should be toasty in the 30F zone
just leave the toes some wiggle space
-=steve
mguisado
I live in a rainy climate. So I've been considering the neoprene booties. Went to a local store and tried on a pair that matched my shoe size, couldn't even get them over my toes. How do these fit? Larger than the shoe size? Or are they just very tight?
vrkelley
neoprene booties. How do these fit?
Neoprene booties tend to run small but they do stretch.
:o I myself still need help. At 40F + a fast pace, the ride is cold with numb feet within 5mi! But usually after 10mi, they're warm for the reminder of the commute and I arrive pretty sweaty.
At 40F
Showerspass Century jacket
Baraclavia (neck)
Winter Gloves
Rain pants
SealSkin sock
Microfiber sock
Shoe 2 sizes too big
I don't have alot of body fat. Is an base layer needed under the windbreaker (even though At 40F my ears, hands, + torso seem comfortable)??
Neoprene booties tend to run small but they do stretch.
:o I myself still need help. At 40F + a fast pace, the ride is cold with numb feet within 5mi! But usually after 10mi, they're warm for the reminder of the commute and I arrive pretty sweaty.
At 40F
Showerspass Century jacket
Baraclavia (neck)
Winter Gloves
Rain pants
SealSkin sock
Microfiber sock
Shoe 2 sizes too big
I don't have alot of body fat. Is an base layer needed under the windbreaker (even though At 40F my ears, hands, + torso seem comfortable)??
RiPHRaPH
i go to the fishing and hunting dept's of any store. the prices are much more reasonable than for the cycling-specific neoprene. and those little credit-card sized chemical heat cakes work great in shoes and gloves.
Portis
Down to about 20 F I can wear just about any shoes. I wear a wicking sock with a wool sock over it. IMPORTANT: Wear a shoe that is oversized. You need some air at the end of the shoe. I bought mine 1/2 to a whole size to large.
I would recommend getting a shoe that is at least one size too large.
Below 20 F I wear the same sock combo and a pair of Wolverine, Thinsulate lined hiking boots. My feet are never cold. (bought these oversized as well) I obviously use platform pedals.
I would recommend getting a shoe that is at least one size too large.
Below 20 F I wear the same sock combo and a pair of Wolverine, Thinsulate lined hiking boots. My feet are never cold. (bought these oversized as well) I obviously use platform pedals.
Mtn Mike
A pair of Lake MXZ300 shoes, AND toe warmers. I have cycled @ below zero Fahrenheit with this set-up, and my feet have never been even the least bit cold. The shoes are warm, but are also great for keeping the snow/slush out.
I've been using the Lake MXZ300's for going on 4 winters now. Underneith, I wear summer, lightweight socks, except when it gets below 0 F, or I'm out for periods of time longer than 2-3 hours. I love em, and I hope they last forever.
I've been using the Lake MXZ300's for going on 4 winters now. Underneith, I wear summer, lightweight socks, except when it gets below 0 F, or I'm out for periods of time longer than 2-3 hours. I love em, and I hope they last forever.
SchreiberBike
A little involved, but check out this link ICEBIKE SHOE (http://johnschreiber.tripod.com/icebikeshoe/) .
vrkelley
A little involved, but check out this link ICEBIKE SHOE (http://johnschreiber.tripod.com/icebikeshoe/) .
Ya HOO! His design is better than mine.
I have a pair of home-mades like this in the garage. Not finished because I used metal plate on both sides, it crinkles when I walk...and it's cold against the foot. Can't wait to get home and try it out!
Ya HOO! His design is better than mine.
I have a pair of home-mades like this in the garage. Not finished because I used metal plate on both sides, it crinkles when I walk...and it's cold against the foot. Can't wait to get home and try it out!
jharte
Hey ChirsL, I was just cruizin' on IceBike and saw this. Maybe this helps. I will probably try the Campmor overboots and power grips this year. In MO it doesn't get THAT cold. But I do like to keep my feet cozy while snow biking! :D
From ICEBIKE:
Tony Torti from Fairbanks Alaska recommends a combination of cycling shoes with warm waterproof overboots:
"Clipless is fine but a stiff shoe is important for effective power transfer, plus the trails I ride call for the occasional wade through overflow (water ontop of ice) and absolute waterproofing is a must.
After years of trying different boots with Powers Grips I found what works for me. A overboot called N.E.O.S. (I found them in Campmor) with a bicycling road shoe inside has finally solved the problem. Very lightweight, waterproof, tough, and with different combinations of socks perfect for a wide range of temps. A thin pair of polypros or thermax inside the shoes and a heavy fleece sock over the shoes keeps my feet warm at -20F all day long. The socks and leather shoes breath so a little moisture will collect inside the overshoes but your feet stay dry.
Foam insoles under the riding shoes make a bed that the shoes sink into and besides adding warmth help keep you secure in the pedals. A well adjusted set of Power Grips keeps you hooked up to the pedals almost as well as Clipless. The N.E.O.S. comes in ankle and knee high sizes, I recommend the knee highs as they keep you dry even in a deep dunking and add warmth and protection.
For multi-day trips some sort of campbootie, tennis shoes or even your favorite slippers can be switched with the riding shoes for wood gathering, etc. These overboots are very well made and after 2 years of abuse show almost no signs of wear. They run about 60 bucks."
Power Grips:
Because many ICEBIKERS use winter boots or light hiking boots the subject of pedal retention often comes up, and power grips are often recommended.
Power grips by Eko Sport (formerly BPP) are pedals with a diagonal strap across the toe of your shoe. The natural position of your foot while pedaling locks your shoe to the pedal, but a simple heel-out rotation (just like Clipless pedals) loosens the strap for easy exit.
They come in various colors. There are two different configurations, one for around $20 works with most existing cage pedals that accept straps. A complete pedal replacement kit is available for about $30 and a delux set is around $66. Check with your LBS or the mail order companies. Eko Sport will also sell direct.
Because they are fairly adjustable, these have become a favorite of winter cyclists that need large boots for good cold weather foot protection.
Users report good retention and no problem extracting your foot in a hurry. The strap is flexible, but stiff enough to remain open for easy of entry.
These will accept larger winter boots than will toe-clips. Some users with large feet use these year around as they are easier to fit into than regular toeclips. The manufacturer even makes large size straps for winter boots. See posting at right.
From Power Grip:
We have extra long Power Grips for just such lunatics as yourself (actually started making 'em for Alaskans). Most dealers don't sell these specialty items, so we're glad to sell them direct If you'd like a set, call us at 800-999-8277. We can handle Visa, MasterCard, or prepayment.
Regards, Eko Sport.
Posted on the ICEBIKE Mailing list by Gordy Seppanen,
From ICEBIKE:
Tony Torti from Fairbanks Alaska recommends a combination of cycling shoes with warm waterproof overboots:
"Clipless is fine but a stiff shoe is important for effective power transfer, plus the trails I ride call for the occasional wade through overflow (water ontop of ice) and absolute waterproofing is a must.
After years of trying different boots with Powers Grips I found what works for me. A overboot called N.E.O.S. (I found them in Campmor) with a bicycling road shoe inside has finally solved the problem. Very lightweight, waterproof, tough, and with different combinations of socks perfect for a wide range of temps. A thin pair of polypros or thermax inside the shoes and a heavy fleece sock over the shoes keeps my feet warm at -20F all day long. The socks and leather shoes breath so a little moisture will collect inside the overshoes but your feet stay dry.
Foam insoles under the riding shoes make a bed that the shoes sink into and besides adding warmth help keep you secure in the pedals. A well adjusted set of Power Grips keeps you hooked up to the pedals almost as well as Clipless. The N.E.O.S. comes in ankle and knee high sizes, I recommend the knee highs as they keep you dry even in a deep dunking and add warmth and protection.
For multi-day trips some sort of campbootie, tennis shoes or even your favorite slippers can be switched with the riding shoes for wood gathering, etc. These overboots are very well made and after 2 years of abuse show almost no signs of wear. They run about 60 bucks."
Power Grips:
Because many ICEBIKERS use winter boots or light hiking boots the subject of pedal retention often comes up, and power grips are often recommended.
Power grips by Eko Sport (formerly BPP) are pedals with a diagonal strap across the toe of your shoe. The natural position of your foot while pedaling locks your shoe to the pedal, but a simple heel-out rotation (just like Clipless pedals) loosens the strap for easy exit.
They come in various colors. There are two different configurations, one for around $20 works with most existing cage pedals that accept straps. A complete pedal replacement kit is available for about $30 and a delux set is around $66. Check with your LBS or the mail order companies. Eko Sport will also sell direct.
Because they are fairly adjustable, these have become a favorite of winter cyclists that need large boots for good cold weather foot protection.
Users report good retention and no problem extracting your foot in a hurry. The strap is flexible, but stiff enough to remain open for easy of entry.
These will accept larger winter boots than will toe-clips. Some users with large feet use these year around as they are easier to fit into than regular toeclips. The manufacturer even makes large size straps for winter boots. See posting at right.
From Power Grip:
We have extra long Power Grips for just such lunatics as yourself (actually started making 'em for Alaskans). Most dealers don't sell these specialty items, so we're glad to sell them direct If you'd like a set, call us at 800-999-8277. We can handle Visa, MasterCard, or prepayment.
Regards, Eko Sport.
Posted on the ICEBIKE Mailing list by Gordy Seppanen,
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