Cyclocross - Help! I am building a Cyclocross Bicycle

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takizawa
02-25-10, 03:34 PM
I want to build my first cyclocross bicycle and have picked out the below Nashbar frame. With a strict eye on budget, what parts should I purchase? And what tutorials should I read to build this lovely bicycle? Any and all advice is deeply appreciated!

Nashbar "X" Aluminum Cyclocross Frame

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_173397_-1_201511_10000_201512


bluenote157
02-25-10, 04:29 PM
I would start with gearing...
sti or barends/brake levers? stis can break making it more expensive to fix. barcons last forever.
how many speeds? 1x8,1x9, 2x8, 2x9

Andy_K
02-25-10, 05:30 PM
Do you have any parts laying around? If not, you're probably better off buying a complete bike rather than building up that frame.

Failing that, be prepared to spend a lot of time on eBay. I got a new Gossamer crankset with MegaExo bottom bracket and 46-36 rings for about $60.

For new parts:

You can get an FSA Omega from Bike Island for $90.
Definitely get Tektro CR720 brakes -- the best value around at about $20 each.
If you're persistent you can probably find Mavic Open Pro/Shimano Ultegra or 105 wheels for near $200.
Get Michelin Mud2 tires unless you live in a very dry climate -- about $40 each.
You can get the Moto Ace version of Salsa's Bell Lap bars for around $20.
The Cane Creek S3 headset is good for about $30.
Get a 4-bolt stem. I've had good luck with the Profile Design Aris at around $30.
I got Ultegra STI shifters from Nashbar for $135 but that may not happen again. You can probably get Performance/Nashbar shifters for around that, but I haven't heard anything about their quality.
You can get front and rear Tiagra derailleurs for $60 total at Nashbar.
Figure $75 for a cheap fork, $25 for a cassette, $20 for a chain, $35 for cables, $10 for bar tape and $10 for tubes. So, that puts you at around $900, which is the price of a new Kona Jake. You can go much cheaper if you're willing to roll the dice with Bikes Direct.

Yes, I have considered this before.


veloduffer
02-25-10, 06:27 PM
I would start with gearing...
sti or barends/brake levers? stis can break making it more expensive to fix. barcons last forever.
how many speeds? 1x8,1x9, 2x8, 2x9

+1 on the barcons. Not are they only inexpensive, but you can switch to friction and put any speed rear wheel on. And if you bend a derailleur, friction mode will get you home.

I put barcons on my Serotta cross. Note that I had the barcon cable wrapped under the handlebar tape, like Campy Ergo, for a nice clean look.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2700/4388749800_7159eab568_b.jpg

jasonrobo02
02-25-10, 10:04 PM
If you haven't bought the nashbar frame yet, check out the performance bike frame/fork combo. I remember it seemed a better deal to me when I was researching a build in December. Or you could go the BikesDirect route and then swap certain parts to get the bike to your ideal spec. I was able to buy a used cyclocross bike, sell parts, buy new parts and got the bike to my liking for around $700.

bluenote157
02-26-10, 06:49 AM
+1 on the barcons. Not are they only inexpensive, but you can switch to friction and put any speed rear wheel on. And if you bend a derailleur, friction mode will get you home.

I put barcons on my Serotta cross. Note that I had the barcon cable wrapped under the handlebar tape, like Campy Ergo, for a nice clean look.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2700/4388749800_7159eab568_b.jpg

nice ride! How do you find shifting on this? I only ask cuz I tried it under the tape and the bend was too tight for me to get nice crisp shifts. Maybe i was doing something wrong??



Definitely get Tektro CR720 brakes -- the best value around at about $20 each.



I would go with this in the front and the oryx in the back. On various occasions, i've kicked the **** out of the cr720 while dismounting/mounting. I have a nice hole in my knee warmers to prove it.

veloduffer
02-26-10, 07:37 AM
nice ride! How do you find shifting on this? I only ask cuz I tried it under the tape and the bend was too tight for me to get nice crisp shifts. Maybe i was doing something wrong??

You probably need longer housing, as the cable has too much friction and is getting stuck. I bought some housing for tandems at the LBS. It shifts great, crisp and as good as STI/Ergo.

Andy_K
02-26-10, 07:47 AM
I would go with this in the front and the oryx in the back. On various occasions, i've kicked the **** out of the cr720 while dismounting/mounting. I have a nice hole in my knee warmers to prove it.

That's funny because, in spite of my recommendation, I'm running CR720's in front and Avid Shorty 4's in back.

jasonrobo02
02-26-10, 03:56 PM
nice ride! How do you find shifting on this? I only ask cuz I tried it under the tape and the bend was too tight for me to get nice crisp shifts. Maybe i was doing something wrong??
I have no issues with shifting while running the cables all the way under the tape. But I have a bit straighter cable run as I use a XT rear derailleur that has a nice straight cable entry so I avoid that extra loop at the end that most bikes have.

Magnificent777
04-29-10, 12:42 PM
I have been posting my conversion alot on Cyclocross site just to give inspiration to beginners like
me who don't have money to spend on a cross bike but love the sport. My conversion was done
as I sold a single speed bike and use money for parts. I mainly kept every thing except added new handle bars, dual brakes, shifters, seat post, rewired brakes and newtubes and tires 700c x 32.

Pros- Used what I got to go cheap

Cons- My current Shifters->(End bar shifters are the way to go or STI) and My Steel frame so
weight can be an issue. Over all a good start for first timer converter.

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad341/jediazsr/TrekfutureCyclcross001.jpg
http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad341/jediazsr/CyclocrossTrek016.jpg
http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad341/jediazsr/Conversion.jpg