Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - To fat to shift??

Bikeforums.net is a forum about nothing but bikes. Our community can help you find information about hard-to-find and localized information like bicycle tours, specialties like where in your area to have your recumbent bike serviced, or what are the best bicycle tires and seats for the activities you use your bike for.




View Full Version : To fat to shift??


Voyageur_guy
03-07-10, 08:43 PM
i just got my new to me Daccordi and everything is amazing! the one problem is i cant get the FD to shift to the large chainring? it will do it no problem when the bike has no load on it. limit screws did nothing for me. everything in the rear works great.
About 205-210lbs. what should i do?


Herbie53
03-07-10, 08:45 PM
i just got my new to me Daccordi and everything is amazing! the one problem is i cant get the FD to shift to the large chainring? it will do it no problem when the bike has no load on it. limit screws did nothing for me. everything in the rear works great.
About 205-210lbs. what should i do?


you might have better luck in the mechanics forum, but as a guess I would say the cable is too lose.

CACycling
03-07-10, 09:01 PM
Go to the Parks Tool website and follow the instructions on FD setup from the beginning. I'm sure you'll get it squared away.


cyclist2000
03-07-10, 11:12 PM
You really need to provide more information. which bike? what type of shifters, what derailluer? If its a brand new bike take it back to the bike shop.

Voyageur_guy
03-07-10, 11:30 PM
early 90's daccordi, slx frame, full Durace 8 speed
shifts like a million bucks when its on my stand but when im riding cant get the FD to shift to the large chainring. everything looks great and is very clean. just wont go from small the large when im riding

DallasSoxFan
03-08-10, 07:44 AM
FD'ers will often have trouble shifting under heavy load (chain tension, not rider weight). It is an accentuated effect when climbing a hill or taking off in a sprint. Not a mechanical defect, just the nature of the beast.

Shift chainrings on the flat approaching the hill, or before you get to the red light. Just takes some preparation. You can also practice a technique where you lighten up on your stroke (and thus slow down a bit) while you change rings.

Could also be mechanical, but that's my 2 cents.

jyossarian
03-08-10, 09:23 AM
This is a problem lots of people have. Follow the Park Tools instruction for tuning a FD. In the meantime, apply light pressure when shifting, just enough to turn the pedals.

RI_Swamp_Yankee
03-08-10, 09:01 PM
Yup. I used to spit the chain off whenever I went for the granny gear, until I figured out how to lighten up on the downstroke - the trick is to mash for a bit so you can coast juuust long enough to swap chainrings. The process is thus: Pedal:Mash-One-Mash-Two-Mash-Three:Shift:Lightfoot-One-Lightfoot-Two: Pedal.

It's better to predict the shift, and do it before you hit the hill. RD's handle load better than FD's, too - shift the FD, and then downshift the RD, upshifting as the grade gets steeper.

zoste
03-08-10, 09:23 PM
...RD's handle load better than FD's, too...

That's because the RD is moving a slack chain but the FD is trying to move a chain that is under tension.