Commuting - Torker Graduate - new rear rack and pannier back pack

I recently purchased a new commuter, a Torker Graduate, and wrote up a little review about it here. After a couple of months I still love it and have very little to complain about. My biggest complaint is with the chain line. I didn't notice it before but it was horribly bad. I moved the chain ring to the outer position and it is still a little too far in (that's how bad it was). Besides the chain line, I haven't had any issues regard quality, fit, and finish. The bike is holding up through all of the mileage, snow, and salt I'm putting it through.

A few weeks ago my Arkel Bug came in. A pannier that also functions as a back pack. I thought I would throw on a $30 rear rack and be ready to hop on my bike but it wasn't that easy. The Torker geometry made it difficult to fit the pannier and maintain proper pedal clearance. I believe that I tried every rack in the shop. We even resorted to modifying mounting brackets on one rack by drilling holes in them.

Either the rack did not fit or the pannier did not fit the rack in the proper position to allow heal clearance. Finallly... we moved the fender stays to the rack eyelets. This gave us an extra 1cm. Then the last rack that I tried, a Tubus Logo, fit like a glove. Of course the Tubus Logo was 4 times the price of most other racks at $110. So that's a $180 bag and a $110 rack on a bike that only costs $480. In the end, it was worth it. I love the way the rack looks and it functions perfectly with my new bag. I've provided some pics of the combo.

That Tubus is a nifty rack. But I'm hung up on imagining what's in those beakers!

I just picked up a 56cm Graduate, mostly based on your initial posting - thanks for the follow-up with the rack info - I added a front basket already and was looking at adding a rack. I like Tubus racks, good to know that the Logo could be a good choice

it's rewarding getting a bile setup. I got my son's bike for free but had to spend $50 for s decent rack and adapter kit.

similar thing with my daughter - I got her TV for $3 but had to buy a $40 remote

enjoy the setup! thanks for sharing!

I'm glad that my initial posting was helpful to you and that you like the bike. Does your Torker have a terrible chainline too? I had to ditch the chain guard and move the front chain ring to the outer position. The chain line is still not straight so I'm thinking of shimming the bottom bracket. Otherwise, I'm loving the bike and putting it to serious use - and its keeping up.

Hey Wiggles,



Just like you, I'm digging that Torker Grad. I plan to order mine this friday. :) I have done my research on it and, in my intensive inquires over the interweb for pics, reviews, and comments of those who already have this whip. I came across your post and your comment about the chainline. Since I plan to own this ride very soon, your complaint about the chainline has become my concern as well. So I email torker about this issue and this is the reply I got back, check it....



"Thank you for your interest in the Graduate. We are very proud and excited about this model, and we feel that it will meet many urban riders’ needs without unnecessary expense.

As far as any problems with the chain line are concerned, we have heard of a few bikes that have had issues with this, but they have not been common, and in most cases, the alignment is easily rectified by reversing the dished rear cog. The cog is installed at the hub factory, and does not always line up with the chain line of the bike. If the bike is assembled by a shop that is thorough in their assembly procedures, this should be taken care of before you even test ride the bike.



Enjoy your new Graduate, and have fun on the many miles to come!"



Val Kleitz, Warranty/Service Dept., Seattle Bike Supply.



There you have it... take your Grad back to shop you bought it at and, have them flip the cog on the hub then... poof! chainline issue remedied.

Good thing too, I was gonna spend $1200 plus tax on a Jamis Coda elite, that is until I saw the Grad. Now with the money I'll save, I'll spend it on upgrades for the Grad. Upgrades like:



Titec H-bar

Sturmey Archer 5 speed trigger shifter

New Grips and bar tape for the H-bar

Schwalbe Marathon Extreme HS 402 in 35c width

Tubus logo rack (thanks for the heads up Wiggles)

Brooks B68 Imperial saddle

NRG Slabalanche BMX pedals... or half clip pedals



HA! I may be getting in over my head here, but hear me out, I wanna see if I could install some Berthoud stainless steel fenders on it too. The kind where you can install the thick leather brown mudflaps.

If you've never seen 'em you can check it out here: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fenders.asp



LOL, perhaps I'm just obsessed.

I'm glad that my initial posting was helpful to you and that you like the bike. Does your Torker have a terrible chainline too? I had to ditch the chain guard and move the front chain ring to the outer position. The chain line is still not straight so I'm thinking of shimming the bottom bracket. Otherwise, I'm loving the bike and putting it to serious use - and its keeping up.

Nope - no chainline issues at all.

Hey Wiggles,



Just like you, I'm digging that Torker Grad. I plan to order mine this friday. :) I have done my research on it and, in my intensive inquires over the interweb for pics, reviews, and comments of those who already have this whip. I came across your post and your comment about the chainline. Since I plan to own this ride very soon, your complaint about the chainline has become my concern as well. So I email torker about this issue and this is the reply I got back, check it....



"Thank you for your interest in the Graduate. We are very proud and excited about this model, and we feel that it will meet many urban riders’ needs without unnecessary expense.

As far as any problems with the chain line are concerned, we have heard of a few bikes that have had issues with this, but they have not been common, and in most cases, the alignment is easily rectified by reversing the dished rear cog. The cog is installed at the hub factory, and does not always line up with the chain line of the bike. If the bike is assembled by a shop that is thorough in their assembly procedures, this should be taken care of before you even test ride the bike.



Enjoy your new Graduate, and have fun on the many miles to come!"



Val Kleitz, Warranty/Service Dept., Seattle Bike Supply.



There you have it... take your Grad back to shop you bought it at and, have them flip the cog on the hub then... poof! chainline issue remedied.

Good thing too, I was gonna spend $1200 plus tax on a Jamis Coda elite, that is until I saw the Grad. Now with the money I'll save, I'll spend it on upgrades for the Grad. Upgrades like:



Titec H-bar

Sturmey Archer 5 speed trigger shifter

New Grips and bar tape for the H-bar

Schwalbe Marathon Extreme HS 402 in 35c width

Tubus logo rack (thanks for the heads up Wiggles)

Brooks B68 Imperial saddle

NRG Slabalanche BMX pedals... or half clip pedals



HA! I may be getting in over my head here, but hear me out, I wanna see if I could install some Berthoud stainless steel fenders on it too. The kind where you can install the thick leather brown mudflaps.

If you've never seen 'em you can check it out here: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fenders.asp



LOL, perhaps I'm just obsessed.

That's awesome! I'm glad you are enjoying your Torker too! And thanks for the tip about the rear cog... way cool! I've also thought about different fenders but I like the black and grey color scheme going on. A Brooks saddle would look cool though.

I just installed Titec H-bars on my Graduate this weekend - had it laying around and after flipping the stem to try to get a slightly more aggressive posture on the bike, found that didn't do enough, the H-bars solve this problem. I also swapped the stock 42t chainring for a 39t - the gearing just wasn't right for the hills around here - my normal riding gear was 2, and I'd never get into 4 or 5 unless heading down a steep downhill - with the 39t I can now use more of the gears on a regular basis, and 1 feels like I might be able to climb up a wall. I'm interested in better fenders, but only if/when the stock fenders break. I have a spare Brooks B-17n kicking around that I may install as well, but I'm giving the stock saddle a chance with this new, more aggressive riding posture with the H-bars before I make that decision.

Hey... heyjaffy, LOL

Glad those H-bars helped get you a more aggressive riding posture. I got the same idea in mind when I was thinking on how I would use the Grad on my commute. The H-bar would give me a more or semi aero position when I want to go faster on the straightway and yet, it would also afford a upright posture when I wasn't in a hurry. I've also read somewhere (can't remember where) That gear ratios of the SA- 5 speed hub and the 42T chainring were not practical for commuting and that people were not likely to use the harder gears. So, this guy wanted to change that ratio by changing the dished rear cog from the 16T cog to a more practical 21T. That alone would bring gear inches down enough to become a more useful and leg friendly commuter. But, I like your idea, changing out the chainring may save me money as opposed to swapping out the rear cog. In my experience, the rear cogs always wear out before the front ones do.... Hmmm after looking around just now, I see that dished rear cogs for SA -IGHs are not too common. That is to say that the LBS where I bought my Grad is not likely to carry them (they are a torker dealer but, they didn't even have a Grad for me to demo). Hmmm, it would seem that I may have to stock up on a few cogs, just to make sure I always have one at hand should I need it. Anyways heyjaffy, thanks for your input about the H-bars and the chainring.

BTW Wiggles, did flipping the dished cog do anything to remedy your chainline?

Heres a link for SA dished rear cogs if y'all need it: http://smartbikeparts.com/search_details.php?itm=SBP998136

Frankly the gearing is just right for me. I find myself in gears 3 and 4 most often. But I'm a mashy kind of rider that likes to stand and pump a bike rather than sit and spin. I wish there was a gear in between 3 and 4 because often 3 feels too spiny and 4 is a little too tall.

I haven't flipped the cog yet - just been super busy! But thanks for all of your info!

Cheers,
Wiggles_dad


Hey... heyjaffy, LOL

Glad those H-bars helped get you a more aggressive riding posture. I got the same idea in mind when I was thinking on how I would use the Grad on my commute. The H-bar would give me a more or semi aero position when I want to go faster on the straightway and yet, it would also afford a upright posture when I wasn't in a hurry. I've also read somewhere (can't remember where) That gear ratios of the SA- 5 speed hub and the 42T chainring were not practical for commuting and that people were not likely to use the harder gears. So, this guy wanted to change that ratio by changing the dished rear cog from the 16T cog to a more practical 21T. That alone would bring gear inches down enough to become a more useful and leg friendly commuter. But, I like your idea, changing out the chainring may save me money as opposed to swapping out the rear cog. In my experience, the rear cogs always wear out before the front ones do.... Hmmm after looking around just now, I see that dished rear cogs for SA -IGHs are not too common. That is to say that the LBS where I bought my Grad is not likely to carry them (they are a torker dealer but, they didn't even have a Grad for me to demo). Hmmm, it would seem that I may have to stock up on a few cogs, just to make sure I always have one at hand should I need it. Anyways heyjaffy, thanks for your input about the H-bars and the chainring.

BTW Wiggles, did flipping the dished cog do anything to remedy your chainline?

Heres a link for SA dished rear cogs if y'all need it: http://smartbikeparts.com/search_details.php?itm=SBP998136

Regarding cogs - I'm pretty sure Shimano dished cogs, which aren't all that scarce, have the same spline pattern as the Sturmey hub. I considered using a larger cog instead of smaller chainring, but then I thought I'd have to do more fiddling with the chainguard if I put a larger cog on. A larger cog will increase the distance between the chain and the chainstay - I'm not sure if the stock mounting hardware for the chainguard can adjust far enough to compensate for this additional distance. Using a smaller chainring reduces the distance between the chain and the chainstay, so there's no problem with adjusting the chainguard.

I like to spin more than mash, and definitely wouldn't have used 5th gear with the stock gearing unless heading down a steep hill, so I'm pretty happy to now have a full usable range of gearing with the smaller chainring. Harris Cyclery has Origin-8 130/110 BCD chainrings (formerly "Rocket Rings") at a budget price if you can't find anything at your LBS.

heyjaffy, how about some pictures of the Graduate with the H-Bars (and maybe the Brooks?). I just purchased a (gently) used 2010 Graduate, and the handlebars are likely the first part I want to replace.

Thanks!

Though I had made my mind up on a 'performance orientated' hybrid as my next bike, a couple of things has changed to make me reconsider: a) my vision has gotten worse, and b) looks like I'm going to have to start working a second job.

My doc no longer feels comfortable with me riding in heavy traffic ( I never was myself, so no biggie there). Have to stick to the back roads or the neighborhood streets, and the MUP's.

The wife's unemployment looks like won't be extended, so my meager budget just got a whole lot more strict.

The Graduate looks to be a good example of a hassle-free bike as you can get. Am I right or wrong in this observation?

I'm still liking the Graduate. And, you are correct in assuming that it is a hassle-free solid commuter bike. Out of all my bikes, I'm becoming more attached to this one because it is the most useful and therefore most used. My other bikes may more more expensive and built of nicer components but my commuter (The Graduate) takes me places in good weather and bad, and I haven't had to tinker with it (no deraileur adjustments, brakes, etc.).

There is nothing special about the frame or the components that makes this a good bike. It is the setup. It is a humble, Chinese factory built, steel frame bike with inexpensive components. But it is the combination of internal geared hub, internal brake (roller or drum), rear rack stay, comfortable geometry, fenders, and 32mm wide tires that makes the bike so practical. If you try and find something similar in another bike you could easily pay twice as much and end up with something not as good. Just look at the Trek Soho, a fine bike but something about the aluminum frame felt cheap to me.

Thanks for the update. It looks like I won't be able to get my hands on one, though. None of the shops that deal with SBS are willing to order anything Torker, but they'd be more than happy to order a Redline CX bike.

LBS has one for $420 on Saturday and I went to the shop with money in hand, all I had. The bike shop was closed and didn't open up for another two hours, and on my way out to my shop I remembered my oldest son is turning 21 tomorrow, I just gave his little brother a Benjamin last month on his birthday. If the bike is gone next payday and he spends the money on another tattoo I'm going to ... don't know, but it wont be pleasant.

hah the tubus logo let me put panniers on a Fuji track pro. it is the BEST rack ive EVER used

LBS has one for $420 on Saturday and I went to the shop with money in hand, all I had. The bike shop was closed and didn't open up for another two hours, and on my way out to my shop I remembered my oldest son is turning 21 tomorrow, I just gave his little brother a Benjamin last month on his birthday. If the bike is gone next payday and he spends the money on another tattoo I'm going to ... don't know, but it wont be pleasant.

Get the bike for yourself and give your son a six pack.

Thanks for the update. It looks like I won't be able to get my hands on one, though. None of the shops that deal with SBS are willing to order anything Torker, but they'd be more than happy to order a Redline CX bike.

I stand corrected. I managed to get ahold of one of the top guys at a local shop. He said he could order no problem. I failed to ask how much he was gonna charge, though...

I am going to pick mine up this week, good recommendations on the rack. I test rode last weekend and can't get that bike out of my mind. It is last years model with thumb shift. For my flat 2 mile test ride the gearing seemed reasonable but my only comparison is to a shimano 7 speed. I find it really strange that the kickstand is not included, but that is probably just me.

It will be a week or so before I get all the rest of the things I need for commuting, rack, wald folding basket, lights (undetermined) stem captain watch and banjo brothers barrel bag. Not sure what will happen to the schwinn. I am trying to convince myself that with the money I saved I should just get new rims for it, make it a single speed and put some studs on it for those days of the year when studs would be nice.



I heard the new graduates coming in the spring are going to be orange.

day 4 of commuting on the graduate.

The good: handles well and the gear range has worked out great for my trip of relative flat bike trail and mup terrain.

The bad: More like annoying, the tioga city grippers pick up small rocks and then release them up inside the plastic fenders so they rattle around for a while. Did not come with a kick stand.

The ugly: Short chainstays=heelstrike. But I knew that from the OP. So the work around was pretty easy and the LBS put it together for me. Delta mega rack with wald folders adjusted way back on the rack. I haven't carried a case of beer in the racks yet but imagine it will have a huge impact on the ride, we will see this weekend.

The upgrades: Other than the cargo loading system above The LBS (Brave New Wheel, good job guys) added a kickstand and bottle brackets. I have added a black on black stem captain and painted my New Belgium bell gloss black except the bottle cap. I've never had a bike where things actually match and people comment on the bikes looks. Lights from old bike. New black barrel bag from banjo brothers on order.

seattle sports winter bag still on for this week,

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk221/switters_bucket/IMAG0246.jpg

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk221/switters_bucket/IMAG0249.jpg

picture taken before I realized the stem captain only took 3 days from order to show up in the mail box.

How are the drum brakes? Do they give you enough stopping power compared to cantis/v-brakes/calipers?

How are the drum brakes? Do they give you enough stopping power compared to cantis/v-brakes/calipers?

They are adequate but will not lock it up like rim brakes, at least not the way mine are adjusted, took a day or so of getting used to.
If I had a cargo bike or rode very aggressively I would not want the drum brakes. As this is a commuter on bike lanes and trails the brakes work fine.

I will try to remember to comment on the brakes and handling if I notice something out of the ordinary after my grocery store run this weekend. That is usually 25Lbs and my stout 200lbs in boots and jeans.

Wigglys-dad maybe the chainline just looks funky to you because of the way the bike has the gears in the back hub?

Wigglys-dad maybe the chainline just looks funky to you because of the way the bike has the gears in the back hub?

IIRC, someone posted about an email they had with Torker/SBS. Apparently, the rear wheels weren't dished properly at the factory (or something like that). The LBS doing the assembly may miss it, but is readily correctable if given a heads up.

i just got mine today and put 15 miles on in pittsburgh and then did a 29 mile cyclocross ride on it and surprisingly it goes good in trails. love the bike, drum brakes are a little week for trails, also i have to buy mustache bars and a fixie wheel

Logo.. does let you shift the bags back, particularly with Ortlieb bags's
adjustable hook mounts allowing Pushing the panniers back..

B&M toplight is a nice bright taillight to mount on the rack.

Hi, new here. I was searching for reviews and just general thoughts on the Torker Graduate and found this post.

I'm 90% sure I'm getting one as soon as next week.

For those who have one - curious how you're still liking yours and wanted to ask about your height/build (if you don't mind) and which of the 6 sizes you went with. My LBS has a few coming in next week for me to try out but was curious what others went with to get an idea.

Also, in your search for a rack did anyone by chance try a Topeak Explorer?

Thanks!

5' 9" 52cm.

Somewhere between 500 and 600 miles so far, daily commute and a few longer rides around 12 miles. Not the best bike for commuting but a great bike for money. No mechanical problems so far, chain gets fresh lube once every week or two.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk221/switters_bucket/IMAG0019.jpg

You measure the chainline on both ends?

If the chainring is still too close to the CL on the outer portion of the crank,
add shims, between ring and arm.. , they come in various thicknesses, get sets of 5.

Not the best bike for commuting...]
What would be better? Best for the money, perhaps? I've also been looking at the Motobecane Cafe Express bikes...

Hi all, been posting in the Commuting forum for a little while now and had mentioned that I was in the market for a new bike. I still don't have a brand new bike, but I now have a Torker Graduate! I had been keeping my eye on the Graduate for when I started trying out new rides, and during a lunch hour at work looking on Craigslist I found a recent model (may be a '10, or '11), lightly used, for $70. My initial thoughts were that it was stolen, but the guy turned out to be legit. It's a 54 cm, which is a bit too big for me, but just a little lean to the side at a traffic light and I'm okay--I was willing to overlook that for the price!

Went out for my first ride right now, a short 3 mile loop around the neighborhood. Mostly flat with some gentle incline/declines near me, and I found myself riding in 4 or 5 going downhill and 3 and 2 on the slight inclines. When I came to a moderate climb I was in 2, then 1. Wish there was a gear between 2 and 1, still getting used to 5 gears (I have an old Univega road bike with 10 speeds).

Thanks for the advice on the racks.

What would be better? Best for the money, perhaps? I've also been looking at the Motobecane Cafe Express bikes...

Well I just realized that I had posted that my torker graduate was not the best bike for commuting.

Typo, I meant to say touring. I love it for commuting. I ride it every day unless I am doing something that involves more than 15 miles.

Erg79, congrats, that is a heck of a deal, the rear hub is worth 70 bucks or more. There are a few of us on the "new classics" so post up if you have any questions that we might be able to help with.

Post a pic when you get a chance.

Thanks, need to get it cleaned up a bit. Chain looks rather dirty.

Alright, some before and after photos:

The guy who sold it to me just rode it from his apartment the subway station (yes, LA has a subway!) and he would leave it locked up outside during the day while he was at work. It has some scratches here and there. I don't think the previous owner ever took a damp rag to the bike at all. Some shots of the rear hub and chain:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6778714173_155c0aae27.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6778714415_cc299b2c15.jpg

After:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/6778714787_565645d8d7.jpg

Not spotless, but better (I think). Washed off both hubs (the front one wasn't as bad, but wasn't great either), and a few cycles of running the chain through my Park Tools chain cleaner--had to dump out the muck from the first time and put it through again! Then some light lubing of the chain and the pivot points on the bike.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6778715139_fd4a959aee.jpg

Embarrassed to admit that I didn't notice that the front fender was not on the bike until I got it home! Riding in LA, fenders aren't crucial, but I would at least like some symmetry. Not sure if I can purchase a matching front fender, or if I should get two new ones.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7154/6778715319_fdc4a783c2.jpg

Changes I'm going to need to make: the pedals are pretty uncomfortable, and besides that, they looked rather banged up. I don't mind platform pedals, so just need to find a set that fit the look of the bike. Also, the saddle is pretty uncomfortable, so I'll be looking for a new one. Any recommendations? Will be mainly going on short rides (I have a short commute), nothing too long.

Aside from that, really enjoying the bike! My other bike is an old Univega 10-speed, with drops. While I still have to sometimes work to find the right speed on the Graduate, I feel like I'm climbing on this better than I do on my Univega.

Nice.

Planet bike fenders.

Seat, you are on your own, like trying to pick a wife for someone. I have don't mind the stokc one and had a brooks flyer on it for a few months before that got moved to the touring bike.

Not happy with the pedals much myself, and I have been abusing them. I put some wellgo BMX pedals on another bike and like them so far after about 80 miles.n They are just a bit narrow when I ride with boots on which is every day I commute.

You still have the original tires on, city grippers. A similar tread but longer lasting is ritchey speed max cross. If you never leave the pavement there are even better tires out there.

Yep, not planning on taking this off road at all. No dirt trails around where I live...only non-pavement I encounter is some sand blown onto the bike path at the beach! What tires would you recommend?

Thanks for the tips on the fenders and the pedals.

Put a Bontrager BackRack II (http://http://bontrager.com/model/08244) on my Graduate. I have a 54cm frame, but I had to get a rack for bigger than 54cm frames to compensate for the fender over the rear wheel.

The rack works with the bike since its a nice matte black.