Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Surly +285lbs

I rode across Canada on the equivalent of a 62" Surly Pacer with HD Columbus tubes.

Then 6'3" 210lbs (30 years ago)

Now I am 285lbs (I have been immobilized for 3 years).
I wish to ride off 70 lbs.
Using gravel trail/bike path on ex-railway right of way.
50km/35 mile rides with upgrade to 70km over time.

I have a gas pipe MTB to haul freight and groceries (kills me at any distance).

I am looking at Surly out of the box bikes.
I will upgrade as parts fail.

I want 36 spokes
32 tires

I am tempted by the Pacer.
But I am unsure of my weight.
The LHT will do but it will be a slowwwww ride - sigh.

Suggestions?
Experiences?
I live in Victoria, Vancouver Island BC Canada.
(I may have access to a Jake the Snake but I prefer steel)

Get a Cross Check. The wheels are pretty tough, it will be fine. A buddy of mine is almost your size and his Cross Check is the only bike he has that hasn't needed a warranty replacement frame. I managed to bend the fork on mine in a collision with a tree, but the wheel trued right up and has been fine since even on a couple loaded tours.

You are tall enough to get the LHT with 700c wheels. The frame will be a little heavy compared to other things (maybe 6lbs or so--2 to 3#, or so, more than others) but you're talking about comparing that to the 70# you consider yourself to be overweight. If you get the Surly LHT and find it to be slow, guess what, it's not because of the excess weight of the frame.

At your size and considering the routes you intend to take, you're going to want some pretty stout wheels and at least (in my estimation) 32mm tires. So, your looking at rims that weigh between 500g and 600g and some heavy-assed Schwalbe super marathons (or comparable) and 14 gauge spokes. You're talking Mavic A719/T520 rims, or Rhyno Lites or Sun CR18s (at a minimum).

I have a Bob Jackson World Tour in Reynolds 531 and it's a heavy frame. Then, it's got some heavy-assed wheels (Mavic T520 rims), a heavy saddle (B17), two full water bottles, 32mm tires, and a rack. This thing is a tank -- tractor trailer rigs get out of the way when they see me coming. Mile long freight trains can stop in a shorter distance. There are numerous bridges in Harris county that I am not allowed to traverse. Someone found a lighter Schwinn -- it was in the paper. But, I'm carrying about 50# to 60# portable ballast and when I'm slow away from the stoplight, it's not the bike's mass that I have trouble accelerating.

Anyway, in my opinion, find a frame and components that suit you as to durability, geometry, and comfort. Get yourself something that feels good to ride and that you don't have to mess with every five minutes (unless that's part of the "ride" -- for me, messing with it is half the fun). From all accounts, the Surly LHT is a good frame that, in my opinion, would be a good choice. Also the Soma Saga. Or, a Bob Jackson, even.

All that being said and without performing any calculations or evaluations of specific choices: almost any reasonably priced steel frame (as opposed to a super light steel frame) should be strong enough and durable enough for your purposes. If you have questions about the strength of a particular option, contact the manufacturer and see what they think.

You are tall enough to get the LHT with 700c wheels. The frame will be a little heavy compared to other things (maybe 6lbs or so--2 to 3#, or so, more than others) but you're talking about comparing that to the 70# you consider yourself to be overweight. If you get the Surly LHT and find it to be slow, guess what, it's not because of the excess weight of the frame.

Ditto. I find the LHT to be plenty fast for me, and I can hang well with others on my 26" wheels (I'm 5'9" and ride a 54cm). If other people drop me on my rides, it's mainly because of my endurance or power (the fact that I'm 80+ lbs. overweight certainly factors in). It doesn't have anything to do with the bike itself.

If you want speed, just throw on narrower tires, since your size comes in 700c. If you have a problem with the gearing, it's not like you need to stick with the stock crankset and cassette. You want slow, go get a mountain bike :D

Get a Cross Check. The wheels are pretty tough, it will be fine. A buddy of mine is almost your size and his Cross Check is the only bike he has that hasn't needed a warranty replacement frame. I managed to bend the fork on mine in a collision with a tree, but the wheel trued right up and has been fine since even on a couple loaded tours.

I agree the Crosscheck is used for full touring quite often.. You may want to take a look in the touring forum.. I love my CC..

Yes, I am hearing you all.
My MTB is uber slow so LHT will seem pretty fast.
My ego was having some difficulties more than anything.

The LHT has many more possibilities for fenders etc.
Xcheck second place
Pacer runs a distant third really (but I want to feel young again! Sigh).

Often the difference between a $5k bike and a $2k bike is taking a good crap before your ride.

I get pretty good flat speed but the heavy lifting on the hills is a pretty hefty pant.
The MTB loaded with cans and milk approaches 375/400 lbs.
Stiff as a post.

I do believe cantilevers need to be a priority too.

If you want cantilevers, or the v-brake version (and they are great, too), the LHT very well may be what you are looking for. Others think the Soma is the ticket. I like my Bob Jackson.

By the way, if you find your MTB to be slow, try some narrower, smoother tires. I think you can find 26" tires down to the equivalent of 32m to 35mm in road tread for not much money. If you have gigantic knobby tires on there, you likely don't need them.

I love my LHT so in my opinion you can't go wrong there. And don't forget about the n+1 rule (n being how many bikes you have and +1 being howm many you need) there will always be room for the pacer. I am saving for a salsa casseroll single for my next +1.

Hey - just about any surly steel will be great - in truth just about any bike will be great. 4 trips a week on the Galloping Goose to Sooke and back and you will be aces - actually, if you just use the bike instead of the car for trips to coffee and groceries will subtract 35 pounds in a year.

Victoria is great - bike to Java on Cook Street.

I was going to suggest a bike from MEC - but it is better to get a bike from a bike store with guys you want to hang with cause you will see them fairly often.

Thanks RWR

I will check MEC (Canadian REI) - had not thought of them.

I put myself thru university as a bike mechanic so the bike itself is more important than the dealer.
I am a grocery peddler.
Just had a destroyed knee for 3 years.

I need to do some serious miles and the MTB is not a good fit.

+++

desconhecido

I am using a smooth tire albeit a larger cross section.
The ride is too brutal on the stiff front fork for less.
I have considered doing up a 26" wheeled frame using a better quality MTB.
I am not quite there yet.

Talking with the Surly sales guy today he said there is a 11 speed Alphine due out this fall that is Rohloff quality.
He had 2x rohloff bikes.
All his staff were internal or 8 speed - none used 9 speed chains.
That has serious cajones for me as I will make swiss cheese out of a 9 speed chain.

Had a good look around.

the answer is the cross check.
I can put an Alfine in it.

It is the first steel drop bar frame with wheel clearance that allows me to do this with the correct rear drop outs - oh joy joy joy!

I am going to look at the Soma Double-cross now.

Edit: Soma does not work. I have dreamed of a IGH modern steel for a long time - it is here - wow!

Glad you found your ideal Surly, dude. The Soma won't work because it uses vertical drop-outs. I myself liked the Cross-Check more than the LHT, but I had wanted a touring bike before a cyclocross bike, so yeah. I'll get my Cross-Check in the future (when I have more money to blow).

As I said at the beginning I toured on Italian geometry like the Pacer - it is a good fast touring ride.
I suspect the Xcheck is a good tourer too unless you are as heavy as me right now (285). I suspect that the cross check will handle a 325/350lb total load (no proof) simply by doing the math. The xcheck is 72 parallel with the same BB height as the LHT. It has slightly smaller tubes than the LHT. If over 400lbs load total do the LHT for sure. Under 300 the xcheck for sure. In between is the grey area where the xcheck might work.

PS I started the Genotype Diet this last week. I cannot eat enough fast enough and I am losing weight quickly.

A railroad right of way is not that steep (relatively speaking). The extra weight of the LHT will not be noticeable on this grade, the bike is bombproof (beefier wheels, etc.) and a smoother ride on rougher surfaces.

Agreed RE LHT
Except it has vertical drop outs.
I am biting the bullet and will make a custom XCheck with an Alfine IGH.
Twice as expensive but a nice IGH on the trail with a beefy thick chain will be cheaper on chain wear etc in that gritty environment.