Touring - Anybody Love The Surly Long Haul Trucker?

Hello, I'm New And Lovin' All The Info. I Am Soaking Up From These Touring Threads.

I Am Doing Mad Research On My First Touring Buy And Am Trying To Decide Between The Famous trek 520, This New surly Long Haul Trucker And The Supposedly Flawless bruce Gordon B.l.t. Also, I've Taken A Quick Gander At The thorn Xtc And Nomad But Don't Know As Much About Them. However, The Bike That I Am Most Eager To Hear Someone Give Pro's And Con's On Is The Surly L.h.t. Because I Can't Find Anybody That's Toured On One Yet. anybody Out There Tried One Out Yet?

I'll Spend The Extra Money On The B.l.t. Or L.h.t. If They Are Convincingly Better For fully Loaded Touring. If They Aren't, I'm Fine With The 520. I Want A Bike That Will Produce Consistently For The Remainder Of My Years So I Want To Be Certain Before I Purchase...but I'm Soooo Eager To Purchase.

I Would Love To Hear Anybody's Comments Or Answer To The Above Question. Thanks...

Why did you capitalize every word?

thanks for not capatolizing every word. i hate that, it is the worst thing ever in the world.

Is there software or something on the keyboard which enable you to capitalize the first letter of each and every word? Just curious....

the "capitlizing mistake" that has generated the ony responses to my question on this thread occured only because that was my first ever post and i wrote it in caps lock. it changed the message when i sent it capitalizing the first letter in every word.
i want to formally appologize to everyone for being so careless. thank you for your responses to my questions...

i was wondering if anybody out there had maybe something else they would like to add. possibly something about the surly long haul trucker comparing to the bruce gordon b.l.t.
has anybody out there toured with the lht?
also, momovelo.com is offering a bundle deal for the surly lht for a total of 850 dollars. however, my local bike shop quoted me 1500 dollars. here are the components that come with the momovelo bundle:

kalloy seatpost, cheeseboard stem, front brake cable hanger, headset spacers, tange bb, brooks B17 saddle, tektro oryx brakes, sugino XD crankset, MKS sylvan pedals, nitto handlebars, tektro brake levers, yokozuna cables & housing, alex/deore wheelset, rim tape & tubes, soma xpress tyres. $550 value

are these parts crap or will they suffice for a loaded touring bike?
compare to the components that come if i buy what surly suggests on their website: http://www.surlybikes.com/virtual_LHT.html (i'll be buying the 700c model)

you gotta watch out not to distract the people in here. they get sidetracked very easily and its usually pretty difficult to get them back. I've been looking at the trucker also so I'm watching this thread closely. From what I can surmise, not a whole lot of people have actually built one up yet. I know there are some pictures of a build either in theis forum or in the commuting forum. Not sure if they are done with it yet though.

tim

also, momovelo.com is offering a bundle deal for the surly lht for a total of 850 dollars. however, my local bike shop quoted me 1500 dollars.

It looks like there is a pretty big difference between the quality of the components that momovelo is bundling vs. the surly "virtual bike" package. Perhaps more importantly, I've seen some people on this site tell some pretty sad stories about trying to get stuff from momovelo via the internet. Sounds like customer service is not their strong suit.

Your best solution might be neither one of the ones you're considering. Maybe assemble the parts separately and then have your LBS do the assembly? Very important comfort factors for touring bikes that you might or might not want to change about the Surly/QBP combo include:

- shifters (it comes with STI. perhaps you might prefer bar ends?)
- handlebars
- saddle
- gearing (the stock gearing doesn't seem low enough for loaded touring)

You don't want to spend $1500 (or $850) and then spend another $300 changing out parts before you take your first tour.

Here's a nice set of photos of the LHT belonging to another forum member...
http://photos.yahoo.com/murraylove

Yeah, I checked those pictures out last night and they almost made me lose control and irrationally buy my own lht then and there. I really like the amber saddle...is that the brooks b17 honey saddle?
thanks for the info gravelpot. what don't you like about the lht's handlebars and saddle? are sti shifters more flimsy than bar end? lastly, what gearing would you recommend? i'm pretty much a novice so feel free to treat me like one.

As far as seat and bars, you really should find the ones that fit you best. No use putting $60 down on a brooks if you come to find you don't like it. With STI, the integrated shifter/brakes are really complex and, from what I've heard, tend to get fouled up with dust and require periodical cleaning. Not something you'd want to take on as its getting dark on an isolated road in central kansas. Don't really know about gearing. Just learning about most of this stuff myself.

tim

thanks for the info gravelpot. what don't you like about the lht's handlebars and saddle? are sti shifters more flimsy than bar end? lastly, what gearing would you recommend? i'm pretty much a novice so feel free to treat me like one.

Caveat Emptor: I have not done any touring myself, but I've been reading *a lot* lately and have noticed some definite trends in equipment choices, and have done a lot of daydreaming about how I would fit out my own touring bike. That's why I'm not making any specific recommendations per se, but just pointing out some of the things that you need to look at.

Like TimArchy said, a lot of this stuff is based on personal preference. I mentioned saddle and handlebars not because I don't like the ones on the LHT virtual bike but because those are two "comfort" items that many people have strong preferences about. Many people like Brooks saddles; I've never tried one, so I don't know, but the arguments in favor are pretty forceful.

I don't know that STI shifters are "flimsy", but it would definitely increase the complexity of your drivetrain in terms of being able to do your own on-the-road repairs if anything did go wrong. You might also save some money by buying 105 components on eBay or the like but not using the 105 STI shifters. The only two bikes I've had for the last ten+ years have had bar-end shifters, so I have grown very used to them, and I've never had any trouble with them.

Gearing is also a personal preference, but if you're going to be doing loaded touring over any substantial hills or mountains, you probably want a 22 or 24 tooth chainring in the front and a largest cog in the back with 30 or more teeth. You can start looking into the "gear inches" of different combinations if you want to get really technical, but I haven't gotten to that point.

I recommend that you go to Crazy Guy on a Bike (http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/) and look at some people's gear lists (usually at the beginning of their journals). Some of them go into a good level of detail about their bikes and discuss why they made certain decisions and how they worked out.

Then once you've got all this stuff figured out you've got to decide trailer vs. panniers, what kind of racks, etc... It's a lot of fun to think about!

Good luck.

It looks like there is a pretty big difference between the quality of the components that momovelo is bundling vs. the surly "virtual bike" package. Perhaps more importantly, I've seen some people on this site tell some pretty sad stories about trying to get stuff from momovelo via the internet. Sounds like customer service is not their strong suit.



Momovelo charges your credit card when you submit the order, not when they ship it and sometimes they don't ship it. So, I just had the credit card company reverse a ~$60 charge. PITA.

The owner has publicly mused about closing the business and going back to Japan.

thanks guys for that info.
i'll look into that web page gravelpot and continue to record this journey towards purchasing day.

i thought that momovelo looked a little hokey; i think i'll stay away from them for now. thanks for the tips.

LHT is a very appealing bike -- similar geometry to the Rivendell Atlantis with less expensive TIG construction. Outfitted with Shimano 105 parts I think it would be a terrific touring bike. Here is a used set on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=58094&item=3695777108&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Bar ends would be a much better choice than STI, imo.

thanks guys for that info.
i'll look into that web page gravelpot and continue to record this journey towards purchasing day.

i thought that momovelo looked a little hokey; i think i'll stay away from them for now. thanks for the tips.

I wouldn't call them "hokey", just not really good at running a business. From everything I've heard, the owner is a really great guy with a true passion for cycling. In other words, I don't think momovelo is a scam, it just isn't well run.

Hello,

I wanted an LHT, but they werent available when I was gearing up so I went for my Poprad. No regrets, this is a great all around bike for sure. . . . but I would have been happy with the Surly too.. I had to spend alot to get my bike into touring shape, but it performed flawlessly. good luck with all LHT's lets see some more pics!!! Heres my take on a few issues...

For touring you want a setup that youll be confortable riding for hours upon houurs for days upon days. so take your old trusty seat and put it on your new touring bike. Or put a few weeks of riding on your new seat before you go to make sure its ok and to break it in a bit.... better yet, put a few hundred miles on anything new before you go. including shoes, socks, and shorts.

I toured with 105 STI's and I had alot of rain and some very dusty sections with no problems.. But I didnt crash on them or get them filled with mud or anything abusive like that.. friction shifters are always a safe bet. If I hadnt already spent a ton converting my whole drivetrain to touring spec then I would have gone to bar ends or even downtube shifters.. I was a bit lucky there I guess.. (are STI's really that finicky in normal day to day road use anyway?)

My bailoutest bailout gear was 28ring x 32cassette. this translated into a 4-6 mph spin up steep hills with my 65lb total rig. It was fine for me and im no superman (5'9", 150 lbs) honestly, if there was a section of a hill that I couldnt tackle in that gear then I'd either be walking or resting (I did both a few times) My cassettes last three gears were 24, 28, 32. I think a 28-34 tooth jump would have been a bit much, I liked the 28 to 32 jump.. so Im glad I went with the 11-32 instead of the 11-34.
maybe with a 26 tooth granny ring up front I could have avoided walking a time or two, but walking for a while actually feels good after riding for hours.

I used two layers of bar wrap for some extra cushion (actually started with a 3mm foam steering wheel cover wrapped around my bars but it began to stink after a week or so, so I eventually trashed it)

I used the "courier rack" (avenir I think) from Nashbar, its pretty long and I had no heel clearance issues. It was really sturdy and worked perfectly. perfect length for my tent and bed roll. I used the Nashbar waterproof panniers and they were perfect.. truly waterproof and pretty cheap. (although your stuff will be in big ziplock bags anyway, right?) Nashbar generic lowrider front rack worked fine.

I do not recomment Pasela Tourguard tires. I had all kinds of rips in the sidewalls.. fenders, you need em! staying dry is sooo nice. for riding in rain I recommend a rain cape. I got mine from Campmor. you can ride for hours in the rain and stay dry.. you just have to go slower so you dont get wet from sweat.. keep two plastic grocery bags tucked under your seat so when it starts to rain you can put them over your shoes to keep your feet dry.. I ride with clips and straps so I can do this. I tucked them into my socks. the cape keeps out water from above and the bags keep splashes and rain from in front at bay. dry shoes are sooo nice. get a real deal (outdoor research) waterproof bag for your sleeping bag and mattress or blanket or whatever setup youve got. dry bedding was soooo nice. I guess I was unlucky in that it rained for half of my trip but you learn how to deal.. part of the fun and sense of accomplishment....

definitely bring a book or radio. better still is both... there will most likely be times where youre just stuck due to weather or something and having something to do is awesome. I listened to a whole The Price is Right gameshow one day (my little sony sport radio gets TV and weather bands) while stranded in my tent in the rain after I woke up one morning. After 7 hours! it slowed down enough for me to make my getaway. learn how to set up your tent so you stay dry. (plastic ground cloth, folded under the edges of your tent so rain doesnt fall on it and so the water running around your tent goes UNDER this poly ground cloth).

Researching and setting up the bike was alot of fun, but not nearly as much as being out on tour. Check the attached pic, thats what its all about. Being so far away from where everyone else you know is and getting there crank by crank, mile by mile. adventure. emotions. marvellous.

ride on
~Steve

wow, thanks for that heap of info revtor! 'much needed on my end here. too bad it rained so much on your trip but sounds like you had such a sweet time anyways (i love the pic). i'll be refering back to all your advice for how to handle wet conditions (panniers, racks, tent advice) when i take off as it seems you've got the first hand knowledge in the rain.
i think i'm going to go with the bar end shifters not because they seem better per say but because they have been proven with time. similarly, one reason i'm not too sure i want to commit to the lht instead of say, bruce gordon's blt, is for the same reason...it's been around longer. i'm sure it very well might prove to be a great bike (it looks great) but the blt has been around longer (...comments on the blt anybody...). i don't want to be the one that responds to my own questions about the reliability of the lht with a negative instead of a positive. no-one out there seems to have gone a long way on this bike fully loaded yet (at least i can't find anyone). i like material proven with time; that's one of the things that makes research rewardable. i'll might still purchase the lht but i don't have the funds to be the first to try it out and then find it's not as sweet on the road as it is on display. i know i sound picky but, hey, spending upwards to 2k on a bike will do that to you.
thanks also for that ebay link; i might involve myself with that round of bidding. 105 components seem trusty to me. but is going LX better for the rear derailer than 105? (please excuse what may seem as ignorance to you boys for you'll see much of it coming from me i'm afraid) i'm still learning about gearing...do many go for a 11-34 jump...that makes for lower gearing right? you made it sound like its a bit excessive but i weight about 50 pounds more than you at the moment...200lbs (although i belong at 185lbs) and i'm almost 6'.
anyways, i could ramble on but i would tire your all out if i haven't already.
oh yeah, thanks for the comments on Pasela Tourguard tires. any body have a rec. on a better touring tire?
thanks again,
ty hall

Researching and setting up the bike was alot of fun, but not nearly as much as being out on tour. Check the attached pic, thats what its all about. Being so far away from where everyone else you know is and getting there crank by crank, mile by mile. adventure. emotions. marvellous.

Beautiful post, beautiful pic. Thank you.

similarly, one reason i'm not too sure i want to commit to the lht instead of say, bruce gordon's blt, is for the same reason...it's been around longer. i'm sure it very well might prove to be a great bike (it looks great) but the blt has been around longer (...comments on the blt anybody...). i don't want to be the one that responds to my own questions about the reliability of the lht with a negative instead of a positive. no-one out there seems to have gone a long way on this bike fully loaded yet (at least i can't find anyone). i like material proven with time; that's one of the things that makes research rewardable. i'll might still purchase the lht but i don't have the funds to be the first to try it out and then find it's not as sweet on the road as it is on display.

While the LHT is new enough to not have much of a track record, I think if you look around at what people say about the other Surly models, you will hear the word "bombproof" thrown around a lot by people who treat their bikes like they were made to be ridden. I'm not trying to talk you out of the Bruce Gordon, just saying that Surly does have a rep for building bikes that are, if nothing else, sturdy and reliable. What I would be more concerned about would be the fit and ride characteristics of the two bikes and how they match your body and preferences.

What I would be more concerned about would be the fit and ride characteristics of the two bikes and how they match your body and preferences.

this is the area where i still need to learn much. i don't know any numbers save the size frame i ride (56) and their corresponding wheel size. i am still confused at how one of two great bikes (like the lht or blt) can suit one person better than the another. it doesn't seem like the frames really differ that much at all. i have longer than average arms, longer legs than torso and i almost 6'. don't i just adjust the height of my handlebars and saddle to my preference and leave it at that?? i guess i have been mainly just looking at the components in my shopping and haven't done enough research on frame design vs. my body's design. i have just recently come to the conclusion (like one or two posts ago on this thread) that i don't have the money or, more importantly, the knowledge to put a bike together piece by piece so i am looking for what's better on the frame: surly's lht component package as is or bruce's blt as is. the blt is like $1604 w/out racks from bruces website and i've been quoted $1509 at my bike shop for the lht also w/out racks but with surly's stock components (i'll paste the links for both the lht's and blt's components at the bottom for comparison). i think you're right gravelpot, i believe the lht to be bombproof from what i've read, and i also think that about the blt. i have limited myself to paying around 1800-1900 dollars to get the bike with racks on the road even though i would like to do it cheeper (i'm still looking at that link for the shimano set on ebay that's posted above but it doesn't mention what the gearing is, only that it's a six speed on the cassette...and i would like a second opinion on whether it is better to purchase that or surly or bruce's stock components even though it costs more).
so anyways, it now seems to be down to finding the best components and somehow finding out which frame would suit me better...??
sorry if i've mislead, but like i mentioned, i am kind of learning what decisions i should make as i progress through this thread. i have truly been learning tons and much appreciate the advice.

striving to be independent...but not there yet,
ty hall

component comparison:
B.L.T.:
http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html

L.H.T.:
http://www.surlybikes.com/virtual_LHT.html

sorry that was so long and chunky

hmm the frames are probably very similar (didnt check the geometries but they both are well thought out and sorted for loaded touring.) and the prices come in at around the same.. so look at the components, and listen to your heart.. which do you like more? picking a bike for frame color is OK! youre going to have it for years so go for your heart and eye's favorite. parts can always be changed and the frames are both pretty sweet.

both have LX rear derailleurs and cassettes.. 11-32 on both.. good sturdy stuff.
both have avid shorty 4 brakes.. these are fine, mine squeal alot on the front, maybe try different pads..Koolstop?
bars and stems and seats and posts are all kinda up to personal preference.. IF you get the shop to build the bike for you.. Bruce's preference may not be yours, but im sure all the stuff he specs is solid.
26" or 700c wheels??? going to be doing any substantial off-roading? have a personal preference?

the main difference is between the 105 STI shifters and 105 road triple on the LHT, versus the dura-ace barcons and LX mountain triple on the BaconLettuceTomato..

BLT either 26 or 700 wheels avail in all sizes.. nice to have the choice regardless of your body size. 700 gets low rider, 26 gets high rider front rack. 1" headtube and stem is. . dare I say old fasioned. each frame is avail with only 1 stem no substitutions..(dumb?) Mr Gordon is a stubborn one Ive heard!! I think a mountain triple is a bit small.. On my trip I was in my middle (38) ring most of the time and down near the smaller half of my cassette.. with a 32 middle ring I would be spinning like crazy, or most likely be using the 44 most of the time around the bigger half of the cassette... which is putting the chain in a pretty off-line position. The dura ace barcons are nice for sure though.


LHT 26" wheels for up to 54cm 700 wheels for 56 and up.. what do you like? going off road at all? more room under lowrider racks with 700 wheels... A road triple = a 30t granny ring which is probably going to be a bit big for those times you need a crawler gear.. And IIRC, modern road triples can fit no smaller than 30T as the granny, so youre stuck.. 1 1/8 headset means more choices for stems and adjustments.. this is good for fine tuning the fit. The 105 STI's are what I used and worked fine.. but the barcons would always give that peace of mind knowing that theyll work come hell or high water. I do obviously prefer STI when logging those road miles as they are easier to switch gears with quickly, but you'd get used to barcons pretty quickly. If the shop's going to build it up for ya then you can have them sub the barcons for the STI's obviously and it may even be cheaper.. ?

I solved the gearing dilemma by installing Nashbars "Trekking" crankset. 28-38-48. The bolt pattern is the older 74mm-110mm if my memory serves me correctly which gives you the option of going down to 22t on the granny and up over 50t on the big guy.. I stuck with the 28-38-48 setup and was happy.. Id probably go for a 26 next time but the 28 was a-ok. theyre nicely made, ISIS, Truvativ makes em I believe... pretty cheap too. Sheldon Brown's website is the king for gearing info, check it if you want to mull it all over for hours..

Surly is doing some racks too, you should contact them and see if you can get a set or what..

the bikes will be very similar regardless and you will love either one you decide to get. You know you have a certain . . desire for a certain one. go for that one!!! it really starts coming down to personal preference at this point.. color, image etc.. both will be great LongHaulBasicLoadedTourers!!!


~Steve

check the attached pic.. a (homeless?) guy in Montreal asleep on a bench behind his ride. WTF? and we are nitpicking over issues like 28 vs 30 tooth sprockets! lol

i haven't written lately because you're last post sent me reelling into a galaxy of research revtor. thanks for that. i'm still in the middle of it (i've got seven windows up at once on my browser at the moment...anyone been there ;) so i don't have my questions organized to write down yet, but i am curious why you chose your Poprod, how much it cost you (the cost of frame plus what you put on it), and the decision process you went through. did you look at the trek 520? if you did why did you not go with the 520? i've come full circle and started looking at that bike again simply because of The Cost ... and the similarity it seems to have to quite a few of the components on the LHT LX D.railer;11-32 cassette, 52-42-30 crankset, and i want the dura ace bar-end shifters it provides.

the main thing i'm researching at this moment is gearing. the LHT and the trek 520 have the same stock gearing and many, including yourself...
30t granny ring which is probably going to be a bit big for those times you need a crawler gear... have said this may not be low enough for going up hills (say on the road from seattle to my home in alaska...ahh, i can't wait) while having a full load. however, everyone is different. i'm not saying i'm a supa bad dude or anything but i have do strong legs from my main sport soccer. however, again, i have never done a "real" tour yet (just a few couple hundred mile trips on my sorry mountain bike), sooo...i might want to play it safe with a lower gear set-up, say like a 24-32 combination or maybe 26-32, or maybe...28-34. i donno, i think i need to test ride something with one or two of the above combos and then see. but that's kinda hard to do. what do you think? i'll have more later, i am so sure of it.
thanks again for your great replies.
ty hall

Hate to jump in like this but just a quick low budget question. I have an old Centurion lemans frame ,tange 2 tubes with a tange cromoly fork, and a box of parts. The geometry is very stable, would not attempt a criterium as you cannot turn it fast enough. Thinking about building a tourer ,would this frame be appropriate? Can respace the rear, I just hate to let it sit there and collect dust.

wish i could help.
i know there are others out there that can however.
maybe try starting your own thread with that question...
good luck.

as for the gearing setup.. I wouldn't want a 30-32 granny gear. youve read it elsewhere too.. Strong legs are nice, maybe you would be fine with this setup, but it is always nice to have something lower to drop into. (TREK, WHY!!??) try and ride one with a full load and see for yourself. If you do head out with this setup youll be fine for 90% of your trip so I guess the more you think about it, its not even a huge deal.. Basically, -you'll live with it and adapt to it.
I bought my Poprad new at around $1100 and added a few hundred $ in parts. triple crankset, cassette, f&r derailleurs, racks, 36 spoke wheels, tires, racks and bags.
My process was pretty much like this. Try to figure out what I want and need for a tour, research how it all works on a bike (road & MTB parts compatibility, etc..) figure out what specific parts I want, find them at the cheapest price I could. (ebay and nashbar) buy em, mount em and ride! I never really liked Treks (a little too blah for my taste) so I overlooked it.. cannondales looked nice but I wanted steel.. almost bought a Bianchi, I went out one day in Manhattan to find every bike shop I could and see what was out there.. I saw a Poprad, the shop guys were super cool, the bike was beautiful, it had rack and fender mounts, full 105, 853 steel, pretty light.. I liked the idea of a bike that was more nimble than a tourer, but still tougher than a pure road bike.. most of my riding is on road but I also love exploring paths and woods trails so the cyclocross aspect of it was really appealing.. I was sold. put a deposit on it and picked it up a few days later.. I wanted them to put a triple on it from the start but I could tell they werent too psyched on the idea so I held out and am glad I did (not stuck with a 30t granny) I built the bike just as I wantd it and now it is almost my perfect bike. I may have spent a bit more money, and now I have a bunch of almost new parts in my basement that no one will probably want, but hey.. its money under the bridge and the month long trip that went perfectly made it all worth it for sure.

the 520 is a great tried and tested bike.. you can pick one up used and save some $$$ but man that 30 tooth.. gotta figure out a swap somehow. maybe a used one will already have lower gearing installed?? if you buy new, maybe the shop will swap the crankset for cheap ask around at shops.. Cannondales tourers come with 28,38,48, and 11-34 cassette.. Bianchi has a frew cyclocross/tourers type of bikes.. steel too..

good luck. Spend till it hurts to get what you really want, you wont regret it!

~Steve

roadpig, Im not sure about that frame, but older road bikes generally ran a bit more relaxed geometry (similar to todys cyclocross bikes) than todays racer rigs so this bike might be perfect as a tourer.. How much weight it will steadily carry depends on how strong/stiff the frame is and how much you weigh and how strong you are. And how you treat a bike as you ride and how smooth you are.. on and on many variables.. Unless you find someone with this frame built up and can test ride it youll never know until you actually set it up and ride it..

sorry for not much info, good luck!!

~Steve

Revtor,

My first tour was on a Poprad. I purchased the frame and built it as I thought I wanted it. I liked the bike very much and was disapointed when UPS damaged it. However, I've since moved to a Trek 520, which I've used for 2 tours, and now using to commute and I'm very happy with it. I've taken the bits from the Poprad and put them on the Trek and sold off the Trek parts on ebay. You should be able to do the same and reclaim some of the $$ layout.

Good luck

hmm.. well, if at sometime my poprad gets damaged, maybe ill do that. As I stand now, my bike is perfect for me and I want to change nothing!!! :)

~Steve

ok...FINALLY...here's the bike i'm thinking about jumping onto. Please, anyone, post your comments on any of these components that you do/don't recommend...especially you revtor:

for $1417.48, these are the components going onto my long haul trucker baby:
Headset Cane Creek S2 Cartridge Bearing
Stem Dimension Road
Handlebar Dimension Anatomic Drop
Grip Stella Azura 'Pave' Wrap
Saddle Brooks B17 Champion Special, Honey
Seatpost Kalloy 27.2mm
Bottom Bracket Shimano UN-73 Cartridge Bearing
Crank Arms Sugino XD-600 170 or 175mm
Chainrings Salsa 48/24t, Sugino 36t
Chain Sram PC-59
Cassette Sram PG-970 11-32 9 Speed
Rear Derailleur Shimano LX
Front Derailleur Shimano 105 Triple
Shifters Shimano Dura Ace Bar Ends
Brakes Avid Shorty 6 Cantilevers
Brake Levers Shimano Aero
Cables / Housing Shimano
Rear Hub Shimano LX 36 hole
Front Hub Shimano LX 36 hole
Spokes DT 14g Stainless
Nipples DT Brass
Rims Sun CR-18 Polish 36 hole
Rim Strips Velox Cloth
Tubes Presta Valve
Tires Panaracer Pasela Tourguard
Sub Total 1172.48
Labor 200
Shipping 45.00
Total 1417.48

thanks guys, i could be buying this baby tomorrow...or maybe not. but i want to, bad!!!
ty hall

Sounds good to me...
--just be aware of the delicate sidewalls of the Tourguards..
--Sure you want a Brooks saddle???? (can always sell it if you decide against it)
--24 36 48 sounds good, suginos are good classic cranks.
--have the shop work with you after its built getting it fitted right and everything positioned comfortably.. ask them if you can come back in a week for a final adjustment or possible stem swap. derailleur cable adjustment after a few hundred miles. .
go for it!! keep us informed! If you buy, you can start posting yourself in the "Anyone have any LHT pics" thread :)


~Steve

One thing I've heard in quite a few places is that the Avid Shorties are prone to squealing, even if they're toed in correctly. One of my co-workers in the bike shop rides a beater with Shorties and backs this up. I'd consider the Tektro Oryx's if I were you--cheaper, beautiful finish, and (I can verify) not squeal-prone with proper setup.

Gearing ratios and wheels look good, and that's the important stuff for touring bikes--the rest is mostly a matter of personal preference. If you want the hubs to last, remember that they always come too tight from the factory, the QR makes them even tighter, and so they need to feel loose when they're off the bike. Sheldon Brown has a good guide to hub adjustment here (http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html).

Good luck!

Schooltheworld: Just for the sake of uniformity, why not use a LX front derailleur?

Steve: Great idea with the thumbnails. May I steal your idea?

steal away.. the more pics posted, the better!!!

and yes, my avid shortys squeal like crazy.. if you can - go for something different, or at least get aftermarket pads..

~Steve

Cabot. Vermonts finest cheese. . .

thanks for the replies.

first, revtor, can you recommend a better tire? are your tourgards affecting your riding or is it just an eyesore? also, while your at it throw a saddle rec. on me. i liked what murraylove did with the amber saddle contrasting the sage green frame and i've heard good things about the formfitting brooks, but comfort and quality is far more important on something as crucial as the saddle. how's the brooks treating you murraylove? also revtor, you mentioned maybe making a stem swap in your last post...i don't know anything about the dimension road stem...anything of high importance i should know about it or something better?
murraylove, i'll look into that brake rec. you gave me...i do like that the tektros are cheaper:). also, about the hubs, i know nothing...but i'll look into seeing if i need to do some loosening when i get the bike.
the fixer, the LX in back and 105 in front is just what all the shops (incl. surly's webpage) are putting on the bike. is LX better quality, a lot more expensive, or where you just thinking only in terms of uniformity?
one quick ignorance question: what does QR stand for?
i'll be talking with the bikeshop tomorrow afternoon, so i'll ask him these same questions. however, i've found that most bike shops don't know much about touring specifically and are mainly knowledgeable about road/racing bikes, and getting you the lightest, fastest, trendiest thing out there. this being said, i would rather here the answers from tourers first, so if you get the chance shoot me a reply sometime today or tomorrow morning if you guys have the time.
thanks again guys, looks like i might have to wait yet a couple more days 'till purchase...that's ok though.
ty hall

oh yeah, murraylove, what's the range that the trucker can take for wheel size?

the fixer, the LX in back and 105 in front is just what all the shops (incl. surly's webpage) are putting on the bike. is LX better quality, a lot more expensive, or where you just thinking only in terms of uniformity?

LX's are part of a mountain component group. If you're running LX hubs and rear derailleur, I would assume using a LX front derailleur would be the natural way to go unless LX is unable to handle a 48 big ring.....but I'm pretty certain it will. Cost diff between the two derailleurs is minimal, if any...

It looks like it depends on the specific version of the LX derailleur.

44/46/48T
28.6/31.8/34.9mm

More details at:

http://bike.shimano.com/mtb/DeoreLX/componenttemplate.asp?partnumber=FD-M570

baker

Fixer, great pic!!! eerie.. Have you ridden in much fog??

derailleurs.. I had bought an XT front derailleur to go with my 28 38 48. I wanted a match with my XT rear der. too. but the shop who swapped the parts for me said it wouldn't work.. The 48 is too big a diameter and the cage of the derailleur doesnt match close enough the curve of a bigger sprocket.. I now have a 105 front der. check the shimano site, maybe theres one they make for this.. 105 is kinda the road equivalent of LX quality-wise.. mine has worked well so far. . front derailleurs are pretty simple devices. Anyone want a 31.8mm bottom swing bottom pull XT front derailleur??

tires?? The tourguards affected my riding when I had to stop because of flats.. 4 in a month. Not tooo bad I guess. ? Maybe I was unlucky, but the gum sidewall is super thin and my rear tire has three boots in it right now. (NYC metrocards make awesome tire patches!!) Tires always make good threads so start a new thread, (ultimate touring tire?) youll find many opinions im sure. Ive heard only good things about Specialized Armadillos, so ill be going with these on my next tour. I rode with 32mm's, I'd have liked 35's.. I actually had a few days where I was on gravel roads for hours and they would have been a bit more stable perhaps.. wider is plusher too. Surly seems to pride itself on being albe to fit wideass tires on most of its frames. . im sure the LHT is no exception.. ask around i guess.

saddles are up to the rider. whaddya got now?? is it a soft gelly style thing? firm thin racer?? I used the stocker from my Poprad with no problems. not a gel, not a carbon plate, its in between, with the plastic cut out from underneath in the sensitive area.. I like it, but it hasn't gotten really good reviews otherwise. Titec Ithys Amore. WTB makes a nice lineup of softer slimmer saddles with relief zones molded in.. I prefer a slim saddle personally, Im a skinny guy, dont weigh too much.
Add a decent pair of padded shorts and it all comes down to getting used to, adjusting correctly, and putting miles on, whichever saddle you choose.

The stem swap I mentioned was if in case the stocker is too short or long, too high or too low, if you just cant get your riding position 100% comfortable, maybe your stem is stretching you out or bunching you up too much.. ride for a while and see, maybe your shop will swap the stocker for a better fit. Brands? not really important IMHO. stem is a stem, especially for easy goin touring...

rock on!!!!!!!!!!!

~Steve

heres my front tourguard on day 2 of my trip.. to be fair, I dont think there is any tire that could have stopped that upholstry tack... I rode with it in there for about 2 hours!! : )

what's the range that the trucker can take for wheel size?

I wrote Surly a couple weeks ago. This was their reply.



the widest POSSIBLE tire or the widest reasonable tire? the bigger size
frames (56-62cm) take 700c tires and the biggest tire we have squeezed in is
a true 29er tire, measuring about 52mm. It fit but with only a tiny bit of
room on either side, so if the wheel were to go out of true at all it would
definitely rub. So the biggest recommended tire would be a 700x45 to give
room. Of course, that's pretty big anyhow. The smaller frames (use 26"
wheels) will take 26x2.1 tires with no trouble.



I also ordered my LHT yesterday. It should be built and ready for riding in about ten days. I went mostly XT with Dura-Ace Bar Con shifters. I have a British Racing Green Brooks saddle, I will be curious to see how the color will look with the frame color?

thanks once more everyone. i'm on the 'puter looking at stuff right now. somehow, all this time i've spent reading about stuff makes this buy so much more appealing :>. ok, back to it. i'll be back...

Patch29, what color tape you putting on the handlbars? just curious.
ty hall

schooltheworld-

You do realize you're just a few hundred short of buying a Bruce Gordon BLT touring cycle with all the bells and whistles?

Bruce has been making cycles for 30 years, they are made here in the States (unlike the Surly) and you can get your size in YOUR choice of 700c or 26" wheels.

Just thought I should point this out before your purchase.

http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html

Either way... good luck and enjoy your new ride!

One thing I've heard in quite a few places is that the Avid Shorties are prone to squealing, even if they're toed in correctly. One of my co-workers in the bike shop rides a beater with Shorties and backs this up. I'd consider the Tektro Oryx's if I were you--cheaper, beautiful finish, and (I can verify) not squeal-prone with proper setup.

Gearing ratios and wheels look good, and that's the important stuff for touring bikes--the rest is mostly a matter of personal preference. If you want the hubs to last, remember that they always come too tight from the factory, the QR makes them even tighter, and so they need to feel loose when they're off the bike. Sheldon Brown has a good guide to hub adjustment here (http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html).

Good luck!

I've got over 2000 miles on my shorties in sun, rain, road, dirt and gravel. No squeal.

Patch29, what color tape you putting on the handlbars? just curious.
ty hall

I don't think my bike will be near as pretty as murraylove, his bike is sweet. I am probably going to try the Cinelli LUX in black. I like the way it lights up in the dark, just a little added safety.

I may also have the bike hacked in a couple months and put S&S couplings on it so it can fly with me and not cost a fortune. I am still undecided on it.

I've got over 2000 miles on my shorties in sun, rain, road, dirt and gravel. No squeal.

My shorty 4's have been fine to. When I first bought the bike four years ago they were not set up right and squealed, but it was fixed and they have been great since.

Well well well! ?! !?!????

: )

~Steve

"Well well well! ?! !?!????"

hey revtor,
i am going down to a bike shop in mass. that specializes in touring saturday. the owner has a 520 that he's selling for $799...! great value.
i figure it would be prudent to get on this 520 and see how they feel for myself (since it's the only tourer i'm interested in that i can test-ride) while at the same time getting fitted geometry-wise, length of stem, and all that. i've been slacking on this thread because i have transitioned (at least for a little while) into talking with people/bike shops face to face.
partly beause of Istanbul Tea's little observation about 5 posts up i even called mr. bruce gordon a couple days ago for the heck of it...which was interesting. he basically pumped up his bike and told me that i need to give "us small guys some business or we won't be around for long". i looked past his blatant, yet understandable, bias toward his own product and views about his tentative postion in the rather competitive market of touring bikes and overall had a very productive talk with him. we chatted about gearing, the "stem-stigma" that has developed because of internet forums like these (his stem is still kind of a questionable thing for me...??), tire recs, warranty, ect... basically, if i can get properly fitted for his bike over the phone and internet then his bike looks like more of a serious option.

as you, and everybody watching out there in bikeforum-land can see, i am quite an indecisive individual. i am enjoying this time of learning and researching but i am beginning to see that this "researching" knows no bounds. i have been given so much valuable information from so many corners...however, all these opinions, although helpfull in improving my knowledge, have sent me spinning in circles. the problem is i'm spinning and i still don't have any wheels...it'd be much cooler to spin on wheels i think. obviously, i need to make a decision.

the fact remains that i haven't gotten to test ride a real touring bike yet. this is why i am going to the shop in mass on saturday. i've backed off for a bit from this thread because me blabbering about wanting this bike one day and then another is pointless. i really did almost buy last week though, promise...i was like 3 mouse clicks and a phone call away :). sooooo, this weekend i hope to come to the decision: surly, 520, or blt...ahhh, the wonderful headache of it all.

more than a little pent up,
ty hall

Hey Istanbultea: I like the gordons but...the size?? 54cm is the biggest frame? I'm just looking into buying a tourer and thought I should be in the 58-60cm size. (I'm 6ft, 34.5 inseam). Why such small bikes?? Charlie



schooltheworld-

You do realize you're just a few hundred short of buying a Bruce Gordon BLT touring cycle with all the bells and whistles?

Bruce has been making cycles for 30 years, they are made here in the States (unlike the Surly) and you can get your size in YOUR choice of 700c or 26" wheels.

Just thought I should point this out before your purchase.

http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html

Either way... good luck and enjoy your new ride!

Ty,
yep the internet "researching" can go on and on and on.. ad nauseum! good luck with the massachusetts trip and picking a bike..

let us know when youve finally got some wheels!!!


~Steve

Anybody Love The Surly Long Haul Trucker?

I picked mine up today. It is not yet finished. I still need to add the racks and a few items, but no time for that at the moment. I am heading to New England for the next few days to camp and ride. I am looking forward to breaking in the new ride. I have only gone 2.6 miles so far, but I really like it. It feels much quicker than my old bike, but I have yet to load it down. I sure it will feel great. I am very happy that I decided to get a new bike, now it is time to get riding. It is not as finely finished as murraylove's, but it will work great for me. I had Cinelli Lux bar tape put on, I like how it lights up at night. I also have a set of Schwalbe Marathon tires to put on it, when I get a chance. They are black walled with a 1/4"+ silver reflective stripe on them, so I guess I have gone with the black and silver look. In a few months I may get the frame hacked to add S&S coupling so I can fly much easier with the bike. That is still to be decided. I do like the frame color much more in person, but it is still not my first or second or ... choice for colors, but it looks good and if I have it hacked I can repaint it then. The bike is mostly XT, Dura-ace bar cons, Avid shorty 4's and I added cyclocross levers too. I hope to get some good riding in and report back on how the bike feels loaded, hopefully I can ride the BRP this November (maybe the cars will be gone by then). These are just a few quick photos I took before it gets dirty over the next week.

http://patch29.smugmug.com/photos/8339061-L.jpg

http://patch29.smugmug.com/photos/8339124-M.jpg

with a little flash, in the dark the handlebar should stand out very well.

http://patch29.smugmug.com/photos/8339192-M.jpg

More photos can be found here (http://patch29.smugmug.com/gallery/216196) with larger versions available to see the details.