BMX - Attention... Newbie!!!

...safe! I'm a newbie lookin for a bike, for vert & ramps mainly... I don't really know much bout' BMX's but I've been lookin at the mongoose RAF 2005... seems pretty cheap against the spec sheet (like I say, don't know much more than what I've read about it), is it really that good???

dont get a mongoose
r u planing to buy a complete bike?
check out www.danscomp.com

yeah www.danscomp.com

cheers... and er, yeah I was planning to buy a complete bike... thats why I was lookin at the RAF, like I say, don't know much bout bmx's (my last one being a raliegh burner many moons ago!) but it looks good on paper, I havent ruled out buying custom tho... someone has also told me to read up on riders - ie. their height and build (???), to see what frame size their ridin' on, will this make a difference or are the different frame sizes for different styles???

Different riders LIKE different sized bikes. The top tube/back end of street bikes is longer than flatland and typically is between 20 and 21 or so inches for the top tube. But, in the end it is 100% personal preference and nothing truly is exact or perfect for your height. It is about what you like.

On www.danscomp.com look at the complete bikes. They are not custom, but are fully built up manufacturer bikes from good companies with a lot more choices than you will typically have at your local shop.

I personally think the DK Cincinatti is a pretty good value for the money, but there are others that are good as well.

i like the mosh lux 4star

its one of the best complete bikes out there

I don't understand how it could be one of the best completes, yet run brakes on the chain stays instead of the seat stays, so if you want to run a smaller sprocket you can't without it hitting the brakes.

It actually is a good bike, but should have seat stay mounted brakes. Also if someone is looking for some street use, it really should have some front brakes unless you want to limit yourself to manuals and no nosepicks.

Wait, I just described the Brass 4 Star... I would call that a much better design for the money.

I think there are a TON of good bikes on the market right now, and a lot of them have really good value behind them. There are a few so-so choices out there, but the basics to look for really depend on what the rider is looking for from their ride and how much cash flow they have.

are there any for around 200 bux with 3 piece cranks, see i just got ripped off buying a mirra flair and itll cost more money to fix it then buy a new bike.

For the 10,000 time...

3-piece cranks, a good set, will cost you $150.00. You WILL NOT FIND A BIKE WITH DECENT 3-PIECE CRANKS FOR UNDER $400.00... and even then they won't be top notch.

Forged 3-piece cranks, like on cheaper bikes are just pure garbage. I mean, total, unbelievable crap. So, while you can pay $220.00 or so and get a bike with 3-piece cranks, anyone who knows bikes will laugh at you for wasting extra money on crap equipment.

You want 1-piece cranks if you can't get decent 3-piece cranks. Cheap 3-piece craks cost more than 1-piece cranks, are typically heavier, and almost always weaker. They can also be a real nightmare to maintain, and sometimes manufacturing specs are a little off and the cranks may not fit together perfectly.

When you buy a bike, look for the primary parts that matter to be of the quality you would expect for the money...

At $200.00 the bike will mostly be the cheapest stuff no matter what, so you don't want one penny wasted on useless improvements. 4130 1-piece cranks, decent geometry, front and rear brakes, pegs all around... stuff like that. When you start getting up to $300.00+ then you start looking for value in your added cost. Chrome rims, or tubular 3-piece cranks... sealed wheels. 100% 4130 chromoly all around. Better components... It adds up quick, so until you are near $700.00 you really are never going to have a 'top notch' bike. But, at $200.00 you don't want to lose anything to looking for something stupid.

well i was just kinda bummed because i lost 230 bux on a bike that as worthless, i will warn everyone, always get pics, and if this guy does this for a living (buys and sells crappy bikes for more than they are worth) look out for a nick afanasiev, so right now all i can do is look for cheap part to replace the junky ones, the guy even sent me plastic pedals, this is wat i need



Part Number Item Description Qty Item Amt.
440031-BLK14MM HARO SPYDER CHAIN TENSIONER
Black, 14MM -- EACH, $13.99 2 27.98
518054-CHR38OS HARO SPYDER TUBE PEGS
Chrome, Pair- Universal, $18.99 2 37.98
465045-BLK916 HARO BIG BLOCK PEDALS (Unsealed)
Black, 9/16 Inch, $19.99 1 19.99
470045-BLKBLK HARO LANDING STRIP SEAT
Black/Black, $24.99 1 24.99
480006-BLKFRNT DIA-COMPE 990 U-BRAKE
Black, Front, $19.99 1 19.99
480006-BLKREAR DIA-COMPE 990 U-BRAKE
Black, Rear, $19.99 1 19.99
486012-BLKFRNT DIA-COMPE TECH 77 LEVER
Black, Left, $12.99 1 12.99
486012-BLKREAR DIA-COMPE TECH 77 LEVER
Black, Right, $12.99 1 12.99
ORDER TOTAL BEFORE SHIPPING AND HANDLING 176.90
ESTIMATED SHIPPING/HANDLING 10.75
ESTIMATED ORDER TOTAL 187.65

and i still havent gotten grips and gyro crap yet, man this really really blows

ahh... so the RAF ain't really as good as it looks... that comes with a forged 3 piece crank, see... live and learn, and then learn a bit more eh??? it's good to talk!